: STock 105 HP & 130-140 HP differences?



3rdday
08-30-2010, 08:20 PM
According to my CPL I have a 105 HP 4bt, I plan on adding an intercooler. Have VE pump.
What are the differences that make 1 stock 4bt 105 HP and another stock 140 HP? (different turbo?)
This will be a daily driver- can I have the power on demand and have economy most of the time when I dont need the power?
If so how?
I am putting it in a suburban- looking for good hghway economy, but ability to pull a 8500 lb boat on occasion.

dahoyle
08-30-2010, 08:29 PM
More fuel.

More air.

That pretty much sums up what the differences are.

Yes, you can have power on demand. It's called the throttle, and it works just the way you describe on every vehicle I am aware of. Not many vehicles putting all their power down all the time, with the exception of a few types of competition.

That said, from what you are describing as intended use, I would not choose a 4BT of any rating, but rather a 6BT.

cRiPpLe_rOoStEr
08-30-2010, 08:45 PM
I would not choose a 4BT of any rating, but rather a 6BT.

i believe even a 105hp 4bt can be enought to a suburban just for commuting, but for the intended towing purposes the 140hp can be better... btw there were some brazilian diesel versions of the suburban fitted with a 90hp maxion and lower gears... speed was not the best but it had a good towing ability...


so, with the right gears you can take the best even from the 105hp 4bt (there are some videos of a 105hp 4bt-powered hummer, check it at youtube)...

khaoskustoms
08-31-2010, 08:47 AM
According to my CPL I have a 105 HP 4bt, I plan on adding an intercooler. Have VE pump.
What are the differences that make 1 stock 4bt 105 HP and another stock 140 HP? (different turbo?)
This will be a daily driver- can I have the power on demand and have economy most of the time when I dont need the power?
If so how?
I am putting it in a suburban- looking for good hghway economy, but ability to pull a 8500 lb boat on occasion.

The 130hp 4bt's were P-Pumped. Big difference. You could pull 8500lbs with a 4bt powered suburban, a 6bt would be a better choice IMHO. Is your suburban rated to tow 8500lbs?? Is it a 1500 or 2500?? I've pulled 7000lbs with my Dakota, (It's only factory rated to pull 5000lbs.) My 4bt did fine, I had lots of power and I could do 70mph no problem, even climbing hills. But, I've got alot of money put into my engine to get it to the stage it's in right now.

Nissan Nick
08-31-2010, 12:40 PM
The 130hp 4bt's were P-Pumped. Big difference. You could pull 8500lbs with a 4bt powered suburban, a 6bt would be a better choice IMHO. Is your suburban rated to tow 8500lbs?? Is it a 1500 or 2500?? I've pulled 7000lbs with my Dakota, (It's only factory rated to pull 5000lbs.) My 4bt did fine, I had lots of power and I could do 70mph no problem, even climbing hills. But, I've got alot of money put into my engine to get it to the stage it's in right now.

I agree with this... A ppumped 6bt would be ideal and would enjoy the heavy truck and towing, simple to add gov springs and a fuel plate, or remove fuel plate and tune!

cRiPpLe_rOoStEr
08-31-2010, 06:19 PM
http://www.tropicalcabines.com.br/adm/arquivos/1245785993f4milha-trailler.17_mais_limpa.jpg

http://www.tropicalcabines.com.br/adm/arquivos/1244494467f4milha-trailler.3.jpg

http://www.tropicalcabines.com.br/adm/arquivos/1244636332f4milha-trailler.8.jpg

you can get the job done with a 4bt... but i would not disconsider the 6bt...

3rdday
09-02-2010, 08:25 PM
Awesome Guys! Thanks for the responses. I would really like to use the 4bta for economy. Only towing every other weekend.
Could I doa fuel pin rotation, advance the VE pump timing, and perhaps different injectors to get the 140-160 HP power when I step on it?
I also worry about the turbo spooling up slow- thee is a fekla in canada with an 02 Tahoe with 105 hp 4bta, says the turbo spools up slow, specialy from take off.
If i do all this , will it dump more fuel at idle or cruise with the pin modified, pump slightly advanced?
How do i get 140hp or more out of the 105hp?

Thinder
09-02-2010, 08:41 PM
Bigger turbo with a smaller exhuast housing, Tune the pump, new gov spring, intercooler, injectors. BUT GET GUAGES FIRST! at least thats what im hearing.

Thinder
09-02-2010, 08:43 PM
Oh yeah,
Gearing, tranny and if applicable Torque converter are very important for the "feel" and drivablity.

cRiPpLe_rOoStEr
09-03-2010, 02:03 AM
Awesome Guys! Thanks for the responses. I would really like to use the 4bta for economy. Only towing every other weekend.


what kind of gearbox are you intending to use, manual or automatic?

cRiPpLe_rOoStEr
09-03-2010, 02:17 AM
Oh yeah,
Gearing, tranny and if applicable Torque converter are very important for the "feel" and drivablity.


i don't know if this gearbox was avaliable in the u.s.d.m., but in the 80s gm had used a 5spd clark/eaton 2215 non-overdrive manual (with a "crawler" 1st gear) in some southern-american diesel versions of the c-series (fitted with a 90hp non-turbo 3.9L perkins 4cyl, simillar in size to a 4bt)... so an engine apparently underpowered could be considered enought for heavy duties... it's still easy to find some of these trucks still getting hard jobs in south america...


these were the ratios:
1st) 6,33:1;
2nd) 3,60:1;
3rd) 2,15:1;
4th) 1,40:1;
5th) 1,00:1;
reverse - 6,42:1;
differential - 3,15:1

3rdday
09-04-2010, 12:41 PM
I have an H1C/HX35 what exhuast housing that is compatible/mate with the H1C whould you reccomend?
I will be running the 4L60e, it is doing the job fine right now- it has 196,000 miles on it and pulls the boat fine, narry a slip, hiccup etc.
I won't be driving it much different than I do now- I tow in 3rd gear, 2250 rpm, at 55-60mph- the 5.3 gasser, 4.10 gears and gettin 7MPG. Alllot of folks dont think the tranny will hold up, the truck is rated for 8,800 lbs towing. I wont be hod rodding or stomping it, just driving it easy as i do now. I may go to 3.73 or 3.42 gears to get in the correct RPM range of the 4bt while at cruise 70-75 mph.

Thinder
09-06-2010, 09:37 AM
I could be wrong n my understanding on this but here is what i have come up with. First do you have a big H1C? or a little one. I think there are two sizes (one for the 4bt and one for the 6bt). IF you have the big one then you can just order a new exhuaust housing of 9cm or 12cm(there is a sticky on turbos in of of the topics, i think the performance section on the main page) If you have the little one, get a big one. or a Wh1C/hx35 (the HX and the WH1C were wastegated the H1C was not) Then you can get a smaller exhuast housing for those, or weld the waste shut or even put the small non wastegated housing from the earlier H1C. Thats what i plan on doing. Will someone please confirm what i said Because im not completely confident i understand everything exactly.

JimmieD
09-22-2010, 09:55 PM
I'd suggest some numerically higher final gears as a strong possibility. O'drive, 265-16's with 4.1 gears are excellent for crusing at 70-75, plus good power & mileage.

Also 'Rated' and safe can be 2 different things. Remember, no compression braking with a diesel, so you'd need some form of exhaust brake for safety, even if Florida is flat.

Regarding durability, the diesel puts our far more torque, all the time, right off idle. From a standing start you're pouring in way more torque into the tranny innards like clutches etc. so a direct comparison with 'works in a gasser' doesn't apply at all.

cRiPpLe_rOoStEr
09-23-2010, 12:54 PM
Also 'Rated' and safe can be 2 different things. Remember, no compression braking with a diesel, so you'd need some form of exhaust brake for safety, even if Florida is flat.

this is real an important deal, but is frequently forgotten...

Michael W
09-26-2010, 03:45 AM
A pedantic point, there is little compression braking with anything but a Jake. Its pulling vacuum that provides braking on a gas engine.