Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

Kubota D600 mower conversion.

55K views 76 replies 24 participants last post by  Grigg 
#1 · (Edited)
The Onan in my mower started knocking, which I took as a sign to install an engine that's supposed to knock...
So just getting started replacing the worn out Onan 2 cylinder 16 HP with a Kubota D600 16 HP engine from a reefer unit.

Here are pictures of the parts so far.
http://rides.webshots.com/album/578805050mvNDsv



Looks like it'll work out well, the original V-belt pulley is a direct swap to the shaft on the diesel. all the measurements seem favorable so far, but will need to make or modify an oil pan down to about 3"

Any tips or tricks to getting this thing started?
I understand they need glow plugs to start.
Not sure which way the levers go on the injection pump? Seems like the stop lever would be the one with very little travel, and is spring loaded to run position, and the other with more movement is throttle and spring loaded to idle?

Have already bled the air out to the injection pump, there's a little valve to do so. Have yet to get fuel to the injectors...

Grigg
 
See less See more
2
#2 · (Edited)
Got it running finally, it had been sitting for a good number of years without running.

Decided that if I couldn't get fuel to the injectors then something in the pump/governor was stuck in the no fuel position. Pulled the governor lever cover off and looked inside, one of the widgets that a lever pushed on was stuck, so gently pried and slid it back and forth a number of times till it seemed mostly free. Reassembled the governor tried again and and was finally able to get fuel to the injectors, and white smoke out the exhaust.
Burped the air out of the injection lines numerous times.

Overall it still took a whole lot of cranking, off and on for more than a half hour, perhaps more, I didn't look at the clock..
Even with the glow plugs on it didn't want to fire, but I didn't leave them on for more than 30 seconds at a time, not sure how long I can but didn't want to burn them out.
Also tried holding a torch in front of the intake to warm the incoming air, that resulted in more smoke but no go.
Then finally I put a few drops of either in the intake manifold. The can lost all it's umph, but could squeeze it and get some out, which is probably safer than spraying it directly in, this way it just drew air across the few drops in the manifold and shouldn't have gotten to much and hurt anything.
Finally it tried to fire more and more but wouldn't keep going after letting off the starter.. so let's just keep running the starter.. that did the trick, the starter continued to help it along and it finally got up and ran all on it's own, even without the glow plugs while running.

After running for half a minute or so it would restart quickly and easily. Time will tell, but expect it starts cold without problems now.

Grigg
 
#3 · (Edited)
Video


Once running I figured out the levers on the governor. (Had no luck searching the net for this info)
The short one on top with lots of travel is the fuel shutoff lever, and is spring loaded to not run.
The longer one below is the "throttle" and is spring loaded to idle. Mine seems to have very little travel, and won't run very fast, probably was adjusted for a lower speed in it's last use as a reefer power unit so it last and last. Otherwise this engine should be governed at 3,600 rpm.

Grigg
 
#4 ·
Out with the old


In with the new


Some hood side trimming will be necessary, but not to bad


Even fits a radiator, and room for an electric fan (already ordered)
 
#6 ·
That is awesome!!!! I like it, should show u a pic of my mower. It doesn't cut grass anymore, but it will do 55kmh!!!! Powered by an 18hp Briggs twin.
 
#7 ·
I like the ice cream maker attachment idea, there could be something to that!

Worked on the fuel tank yesterday, soldered a plate on the top for a supply and a return line. It already had a fitting on the bottom, but it was small and really hard to get to once in the tractor, so I just plugged it.


Then made a bracket to mount a Detroit Diesel spin on primary filter, because I didn't have a primary filter otherwise, and needed at least one Detroit part on this thing.. (the secondary filter will go on the engine)

Started on bending the fuel lines.
Waiting to find an oil pan before finishing the engine mounts.
Fan, filters, and fuel lines are ordered.
Also looking for a tiny alternator, Denso makes a little 40 amp one that's fits, looking for a used one and the appropriate tensioner bracket before resorting to buying a new one.

Grigg
 
#8 ·
Thinking of sealing the gas tank before I install it. It's already out and pretty clean inside.
A few months ago I had to solder a pin hole on the bottom, and it always seems damp in a few other spots but can't see a leak, and didn't notice a loss of fuel.

Thoughts?
 
#9 · (Edited)
Finished bending and flaring fuel lines last night. Also soldered the pickup tubes to the fittings that go in the top of the tank.

Still waiting on an oil pan and an alternator.

Found the hour meter for the engine when it was in the reefer truck, tested it and it works, showing less than 475 hours.

Will try to get radiator installed and the rubber fuel lines run and filters changed this evening.
Pretty much decided to coat the inside of the fuel tank..
 
#10 ·
Grigg,
are you sure that you want to coat the inside of the tank?
I had an ~1.5 gallon tank on one of my small engines. It had a small pinhole leak at one time, which I had brazed together. Afterwards, I still noticed that the bottom of the tank was moist. I bought an epoxy sealant and I coated the bottom of the tank. With a heat gun to help speed up the process, the sealant dried. There has been fuel in that tank for over 3 years now and no leaks.

I am a little wary about coating the inside of the tank. My grandfather had the tank coated on his cub cadet 125 a few years back. With time, the sealant or whatever used dissolved, and gunk filled the fuel filter bowl, and eventually plugged up the carburetor.
When we went to clean the tank out to restore the tractor, we mixed some paint stripper and diesel fuel to clean the mess out. Once dry, I epoxied the tank in the same fashion I did to the other, and so far the engine has had clean fuel and no leaks!!!

Anyhow,
for an alternator, you should find what you need at a lawnmower repair shop. Most decent sized commercial mowers have an alternator on them.

Its too bad you couldnt find a 2-53 for your mower, I guess you will have to make it up with the fuel filters :p

Chris
 
#11 ·
#13 ·
I thought it was a cheap engine, but now that I know what it is and have been looking for parts I'm seeing prices on well used ones in the 700-1,000 range.

For an electric fan controller, any reason not to use a Murphy SwitchGauge?
http://www.fwmurphy.com/20t_25t/
I'd like a real temp gauge, and need something to turn the fan on. Could do it with a manual switch, but automatic would be preferred.

Grigg
 
#15 ·
A friend came by yesterday and we got a few more things done.

Motor mounts are essentially done, next time they come off I'll weld a little more, but all together and working as is.
Also throttle bracket and connection is complete, uses the original lever on the dash.


Secondary fuel filter bracket done, decided to use a Detroit Diesel secondary, worked out better than the one that came with the kubota.


Primary filter and all the lines are done, although I'll use a shorter cartridge.


Installed the grill, and looks like plenty of room for the radiator, fan, and oil cooler.
Mostly done with radiator bracket, but no picture yet.


Grigg
 
#16 ·
Some more work done, still waiting on a few things.

Oil pan was 4" deep plus the drain fitting, and I only have 4" of room. So I removed and filled in the stock drain fitting (that I didn't have a metric plug for any how) and replaced it with a NPT bung on the end of the pan, and also made a magnetic drain plug.


Found a tiny Nippondenso style (might even be genuine) alternator on ebay for a good price, got it, had it tested, and made a little spacer/adapter so it fits, something like this:


Next issue was the temperature sending unit or over temp switch.. I tested it in hot water and couldn't see how it worked. Might be it's an over temp switch, and I only tested to 212*, who knows, but anyhow I wanted a gauge.
Problem was it was a 3/8–19 BSPT, (British Standard Pipe Taper) and without an expensive adapter can't use common 3/8-18 NPT... essentially one thread pitch difference.
Solution was to do away with the British stuff and tap it out to 1/2-14 NPT, which is what most all normal temp gauges use or can use.


Then I cut of and re silver soldered the inlet banjo fitting on the injection pump, and made a line from the fuel filter.


Have an oil pickup tube one order from the local dealer, should be here Monday.
Still need to finish radiator and oil cooler mounting and plumbing.

Grigg
 
#17 ·
Grigg
Nice job. I have the same model D600 from a Transicold. Just got it out of the unit box. Statrted it today and was fooled by fuel shut off lever also. It was sitting for 15 yrs at least. Planning to use for a generator. Haven't pulled it off the base plate yet. I was afraid it would jump all over the floor if I started it.

Have a question for you. How does the Carrier oil cooler/base (oil pan?) come off?
Thanks
Jim
 
#19 ·
cool little engines. I have a 2cyl 13hp kubota from a garden tractor I am going to put in an old cub cadet one day. I was fortunate to get it with a complete wiring harness for the glowplugs, rad, alt, etc. had alot of people try to buy it already! maybe I'll get to it this winter.
 
#20 ·
Jim,
It runs smooth and only gently/slowly slid across the floor when running, could hold it with a hand.
The big cast aluminum oil pan comes off with 18 bolts on the bottom, and 4 on the back adapter plate. For a generator you should keep the big oil pan, about 3 times the oil capacity of the steel pan.

Also for a generator you'll need to adjust the RPM higher.

I haven't messed with the sensor on the injection pump. Also figured it is a rotation sensor or tachometer sending unit, but don't know which yet.

Grigg
 
#21 ·
Made a new thermostat housing water outlet that will be simpler to get a hose to the radiator.



Radiator and fan fit nicely, and think I have room for the transmission oil cooler in front.


Grigg
 
#22 ·
Thanks for the info Grigg. Was hoping to keep the big pan with the cooler. Holds 4 qt of oil with the short filter. Got it started so I hooked up a 2000 Civic radiator and let it run for about 20 minutes didn't over heat. Idle at 2000 rpm and wide open at 2600 rpm. Seems it should run faster and slower than that. Will have to play with it. I don't mind throwing some money at it, now that I know it runs.

K204DR They are a cute little engine.
 
#23 ·
From reading service manuals for mowers and things they came in I think they are supposed to idle at 1,000 rpm, and governed to 3,600 with a max no load speed of 3,800 rpm
 
#24 ·
These reefer motors are getting more available and less expensive due to the emission regs in California. The company I drive for have to either upgrade the motors in old trailers or buy new units to run in California after the first of the year. I have dibs on the next two!
 
#25 ·
Now a month later a little more progress... and still need to mow the grass.

Moved the exhaust out so it fits under and outside the hood like the original did.

Have a cute little oil bath filter that came with the engine but was concerned about it sloshing around on hills.
So decided not to use it and instead ordered a new Donaldson air filter on ebay that looked about the right size.
Also ordered a 1.75" tight aluminum bend from the surplus pile at Woolf Aircraft Products They have a huge selection and good prices on new stuff, and lately I've been able to find what I need in their surplus stuff for even better prices.


The air filter didn't want to fit with the straight outlet on the end, so removed it and turned up an aluminum fitting to weld a 90* bend on, and luckily that aluminum bend from Woolf came with an extra curve I wasn't expecting, and now need.


Then was able to just barely stuff the air filter in between the engine and the muffler, might need a heat shield on the muffler, but it also has a lot of air running between the two from the fan.


The aluminum bend I originally bought because I needed 90* of it to weld to the intake manifold, and here it is.

It's tack welded in place but it's not welding so great :( the manifold is die cast aluminum of some sort and welds like it's really dirty.
Before I make more of a mess with the TIG welder I'm going to look into some of those "magic" aluminum welding (brazing?) rods you see demonstrated at swap meets and gun shows that work with a propane torch . Never used them though..
Anyone have any ideas?

Grigg
 
#26 ·
Decided I didn't want to wait to order any aluminum brazing rods, and searching on line didn't turn up many positive comments about them, other than they might work if it's your only option, and welding if possible is always better.

So gave it another try at welding, brushed it really well with a stainless brush and went over the area to be welded with a die grinder/carbide bur.
It was still difficult, but turned out pretty nice in the end after grinding out the bad spots and rewelding as necessary.


Now need to wire the fan and glow plugs (whole thing really), and mount and plumb the transmission oil cooler.
Eventually make the hood fit.

Looking for a beading tool for 1/2" tube for the oil cooler... I thought I had one, and I do, but missing the die for 1/2", it's a Kent Moore J-2185 flare tool set, missing die # J-2185-7 beading tool for for 1/2" .... have duplicate of 5/16" though

Grigg
 
#27 · (Edited)
...Looking for a beading tool for 1/2" tube for the oil cooler... I thought I had one, and I do, but missing the die for 1/2", it's a Kent Moore J-2185 flare tool set, missing die # J-2185-7 beading tool for for 1/2" .... have duplicate of 5/16" though

Grigg
No luck finding that die for my beading tool, other than Here for $312 !!! which seems ridiculous for what it is.
So sort of guessed at the dimensions for both the 1/2" and 5/8" (other end) judging by the three smaller sizes I do have and came up with the gray one on the right front of this picture, heat treated and stamped with part number and sizes to boot.


I'll give it a try this evening, but expect it'll work OK.

Grigg
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top