: isuzu 4BD1T swaps?!



orangefj45
01-02-2007, 05:47 PM
i have a line on an isuzu engine for a sweet deal but want to know more about them first. the one i'm looking at is from an 89 NPR and has a gm style sae adapter on it and an auto trans behind it. any pros or cons to this engine?!

thanks in advance!!!!

warpdriv
01-02-2007, 07:29 PM
Seen some discussions on ih8mud and pirate4x4 but not really any installs. I guess everyone is jones'n for the big iron, Cummins.

Berg
01-02-2007, 07:41 PM
go for the Isuzu... The NPR motors don't shake nearly as much. IMO they have almost as good of reputation as the cummins.

I'd love a 3.9 in my Land Cruiser.. I found one but passed cause of the unknown condition.
here is a great link http://www.isuzudieselswapper.com/




great site Andre:jester:

Berg
01-02-2007, 07:48 PM
This guy put a 4BD1T in his 2006 Chev 2wd

orangefj45
01-03-2007, 12:07 PM
thanks for the info guys. i can get the engine for a screaming deal so i might just jump on it.:smile:

dieselcruiserhead
01-03-2007, 01:29 PM
it is sacreligious of course but if it is good shape I may possibly be willing to trade for my good running 4BT if you are interested.. I have always wanted to do that Isuzu diesel swap :) But fair enough to you, maybe you should do it first also :) The 4BTs are pretty good actually with the correct motor mounts if you ask me, really pretty drivable/streetable :)

dieselcruiserhead
01-03-2007, 10:20 PM
excellent information in the 'mud thread..
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=128585

I became fascinated with this engine as my first choice before I stumbled into a cheap 4BT and this all began a few years ago... I have pages and pages of info and also haven't installed it myself or hardly even seen one... But I'll post up all of that info. I'll also try to get Coog to post up here too, he has posted and sent pics about them and the 6 cyl variants on the yahoogroup and on pirate...

dieselcruiserhead
01-03-2007, 10:21 PM
quoting from the ih8mud.com thread...

This swap keeps coming up time and time again! Please, someone do it and document it so that I have some one's example to follow.

I have a 4BD1T and a 4BD2T that I am considering swapping into my FJ62 after I finish my SOA (might be a while at my speed). The 4BD1T's came in Isuzu NPR trucks from '86 to '91. They were turboed but not intercooled and were rated at 121 hp @ 3000 rpm and 232 ft-lb @ 1800 rpm. They use an in-line mechanically-controlled injection pump and are direct-injected. The 4BD2T is basically the same block as the 4BD1T but the head configuration is changed to indirect injection. The 4BD2T's came in Isuzu NPR trucks (also re-badged as Chevy and GMC) from '92 to '97. They were rated @ 135 hp @ 2800 rpm and 255 ft-lbs @ 1900 rpm. The 4BD2Ts were intercooled in addition to turboed and I suspect the intercooler was primarily responsible for the increase in hp and torque.

The latter (4HE1TC) engines increased displacement from 3.9 to 4.8 liters, went to an overhead cam configuration and went to electronic controls on the injection. They also swapped the intake and exhaust sides of the engine so they are opposite to that of a LC. These engines were rated at 142 hp for manual transmission models and 175 hp for the automatics.

My understanding is that the bell housings are not interchangeable between the 4BD and the 4HE series engines.

I've been following the various threads discussing installing these engines in LCs but have not come across anyone who has actually done one, although some claim that it had been done. No one seems to dispute that this might be a great swap.

Most people seem to want to mate the Isuzu engine to a LC transmission or to another transmission for which there are adapters to LC TC (ie NV4500). I would like to consider using the stock Isuzu manual 5-speed and mating it to the LC TC, possibly using the Toybox as an adapter. Not at all sure if this is feasible.

The MSA5D 5-speed fully synchro manual transmission that comes with a 4BD1T has a 5.67 1st gear and 5th gear is 1:1 (no OD). Everyone that I know that has experience with these transmissions say they are bullet-proof.

The down side of using the Isuzu transmission is 1) mating the output to a LC TC, 2) setting up a means of shifting as these are not top-shifted but rather use a series of external rods and levers to connect the transmission to the shift lever.

I'd love to see someone undertake this swap project and post their experiences here.

Berg
01-07-2007, 11:04 AM
some Isuzu Specifications on various Diesel motors includint the 4B1DT

http://visualizit.com/BlueYJ/engines.htm

Dougal
01-08-2007, 11:04 PM
I've got a 4BD1T and MSA-5P box in a range rover.

The boxes are very strong, but slow shifting (don't expect rally speed changes). I'm currently getting geared up to swap the MSA-5P for a MSA-5G which has a better gear spread. The 5P has a big gap between 3-4 where the 5G is more evenly spaced.

What made a massive difference to my engine was getting the crank and conrods balanced. There was about 27g difference in big end weights, as you can imagine it runs a whole lot sweeter with that sorted.

Recently I've increased my gearing to drop cruise to 2000rpm, saving around 10% in fuel compared to my old gearing of 2500rpm cruise.

Working on turbo issues at the moment.
Mine is a japanese sourced engine with an IHI turbo which is hard to find parts for (need a new compressor wheel). I have a 4BD2 turbo to try but no manifold yet and a VGT from an audi diesel which needs modified to work (vacuum signal).

My goal for this engine is 200hp with a broad flat torque curve and no black smoke. Shouldn't be too difficult.

Berg
01-09-2007, 09:40 AM
Dougal... great info

I am looking at a early 90's 4BD1T with a 5 speed attached right now.

what should I look out for. The Motor has a rebuild tag on it from Isuzu USA.
Coming out of a wrecked NPR truck.

the 5 speed is column shifttype ( or at least side shift configuation, not stick).. did they ever make a stick that would drop in?.. or do you have to stay with that?

Did you go a divorced trans case?

Berg

astr
01-09-2007, 07:08 PM
I've got a 4BD1T and MSA-5P box in a range rover.

The boxes are very strong, but slow shifting (don't expect rally speed changes). I'm currently getting geared up to swap the MSA-5P for a MSA-5G which has a better gear spread. The 5P has a big gap between 3-4 where the 5G is more evenly spaced.......



I'm new over in this forum but couldn't help but notice your engine/transmission combo in your rRnge Rover. I have an '89 Isuzu NPR 4BD1T with a MSA-5D transmission that I would like to transplant into a FJ62 Landcruiser. I've been trying to find variation on the transmission as the MSA-5D poses two problems: 1) Adapting it to my transfer case and 2) The gear shifting is accomplished with a series of levers and bellcranks, similar to what you might find with a column-mounted shifter rather than having the shifter come out of the top of the transmission.

I'd love to find out more about your transmisiion(s).

How is the shifting set up on your transmission(s)?

Do you know if there is a similarity between the MSA-5P and the MSA-5D that I have?

Who makes these transmissions?

How is yours mated to the T/C?

Where are you located as we see very few diesel Range Rovers in the US?

Any more general information regarding these transmissions would be greatly appreciated!

Dougal
01-09-2007, 10:00 PM
Dougal... great info

I am looking at a early 90's 4BS1T with a 5 speed attached right now.

what should I look out for. The Motor has a rebuild tag on it from Isuzu USA.
Coming out of a wrecked NPR truck.

the 5 speed is column shifttype ( or at least side shift configuation, not stick).. did they ever make a stick that would drop in?.. or do you have to stay with that?

Did you go a divorced trans case?

Berg

The gearboxes are all cable/linkage change as far as I know. Mine has a mongrel stick shift conversion out the top, but the best method is to hook up the cable change gear lever from a manual fwd car.

With an "isuzu" rebuild tag you'll be set, in my experience aftermarket parts for these engines aren't worth the pain. The genuine parts are well worth the small cost premium, in several cases the genuine parts are cheaper.

My transfer case (LT230) is held on with an adaptor system which replaces the back plate of the gearbox. I don't like that it that much. A semi-divorced setup would be best as you keep the intact gearbox and use existing bolts to hold it rigidly to the transfer case while keeping the box intact.

See if you can find the gearbox model, I have some ratios on paper.

Dougal
01-09-2007, 10:06 PM
I'm new over in this forum but couldn't help but notice your engine/transmission combo in your rRnge Rover. I have an '89 Isuzu NPR 4BD1T with a MSA-5D transmission that I would like to transplant into a FJ62 Landcruiser. I've been trying to find variation on the transmission as the MSA-5D poses two problems: 1) Adapting it to my transfer case and 2) The gear shifting is accomplished with a series of levers and bellcranks, similar to what you might find with a column-mounted shifter rather than having the shifter come out of the top of the transmission.

I'd love to find out more about your transmisiion(s).

How is the shifting set up on your transmission(s)?

Do you know if there is a similarity between the MSA-5P and the MSA-5D that I have?

Who makes these transmissions?

How is yours mated to the T/C?

Where are you located as we see very few diesel Range Rovers in the US?

Any more general information regarding these transmissions would be greatly appreciated!


My reply to Berg covered several of your questions. I'm located in New Zealand, Australia is the other hotbed of range rover conversions, this engine was factory installed in some military landrovers in the late 80's and early 90's.

I don't have any info on the 5D gearbox, but I have ratios for the 5R, 5P and 5G. My 5G has different input and output splines to the 5P I have fitted now, but is otherwise a dropin replacement.
To my knowledge they are only an isuzu part, they could be made in japan, china or any other country but I haven't heard of them being fitted to anything other than an isuzu engine.

astr
01-10-2007, 07:41 AM
....I don't have any info on the 5D gearbox, but I have ratios for the 5R, 5P and 5G. ...

According to the FSM, the MSA-5D is fully syncgronized 5-speed with the following ratios:

1st - 5.670
2nd - 3.415
3rd - 1.900
4th - 1.331
5th - 1.000
Rev - 5.680

When I pull the engine/trany, I will take some pictures and post them here.

I am unfamiliar with the LT 230 T/C. Is that a Land Rover case? Is the rear output shaft centered or offset?

Dougal
01-10-2007, 10:01 PM
According to the FSM, the MSA-5D is fully syncgronized 5-speed with the following ratios:

1st - 5.670
2nd - 3.415
3rd - 1.900
4th - 1.331
5th - 1.000
Rev - 5.680

When I pull the engine/trany, I will take some pictures and post them here.

I am unfamiliar with the LT 230 T/C. Is that a Land Rover case? Is the rear output shaft centered or offset?

Those are quite different to my ratios. In my box 4th gear is straight through.

MSA5G,
1 - 5.788:1
2 - 2.998:1
3 - 1.594:1
4 - 1.000:1
5 - 0.776:1
R - 5.798:1

MSA5P,
1 - 5.788:1
2 - 2.998:1
3 - 1.735:1
4 - 1.000:1
5 - 0.776:1
R - 5.798:1

You can see the difference in 3-4th gears between the 5P & the 5G, the main reason for me wanting to swap.

The LT230 is a landrover/rangerover box (LT = Leyland Transmission) with both outputs offset to the right side and inline.
I managed to find a rare high ratio version (1.003:1 compared to 1.2:1) which has given me 2000rpm cruise at 100km/h.

You'll need some big tyres or a very high diff ratio to keep a 4BD1T happy at motorway speeds (if that's part of the plan).

ridgerunner
01-11-2007, 11:03 PM
If anyone's interested in the bigger (5.2L) 4HK1-TC, the tranny ratios look promising (Never seen this engine, just speculating.) 190hp, 387 ft-lbs.

Isuzu Mzz-6U
1st- 6.369
2nd- 3.767
3rd- 2.234
4th- 1.442
5th- 1.000
6th- 0.782
rev- 6.369

astr
01-12-2007, 09:22 AM
Between the 4BD1/2-T series and the 4HK1-TC was the 4HE1-TC at 4.8 liter. These were rated at 142 hp (manual trans) and 175 hp (automatic). These were overhead cam engines and had the intake and exhaust sides reversed from the 4BD1/2 series. I also heard that he bell housing ends of the blocks are different so, I assume, that transmissions would not be directly interchangeable.

astr
01-12-2007, 09:29 AM
I managed to find a rare high ratio version (1.003:1 compared to 1.2:1) which has given me 2000rpm cruise at 100km/h.

You'll need some big tyres or a very high diff ratio to keep a 4BD1T happy at motorway speeds (if that's part of the plan).

Do you find that 2000 rpm is a good cruise rpm for the 4BD1-t? I've been playing around with different ratio/tyre size combinations for my FJ62 but don't have any first-hand experience with the 4BD1-T.

Dougal
01-12-2007, 04:17 PM
Do you find that 2000 rpm is a good cruise rpm for the 4BD1-t? I've been playing around with different ratio/tyre size combinations for my FJ62 but don't have any first-hand experience with the 4BD1-T.

My fuel economy improved 10% by dropping from 2500 to 2000rpm. It also made the vehicle soo much quieter and smoother. It could be mistaken for a petrol at cruise now (but the idle noise gives it away).

The engine has plenty of reserve for pushing my rangerover at 100km/h at 2000rpm, raising the gearing has for me bought 4th gear high enough to use for overtaking at up to 120km/h.

Before then 4th gear would only pull about 105 km/h and I had to use 5th for overtaking, which accelerated noticably slower.

I used to be 100km/h in 4th was roughly 3300rpm, 5th was roughly 2500.
Now 100km/h in 4th is roughly 2800rpm and 5th is 2000.

astr
01-15-2007, 09:50 AM
My fuel economy improved 10% by dropping from 2500 to 2000rpm. It also made the vehicle soo much quieter and smoother. It could be mistaken for a petrol at cruise now (but the idle noise gives it away).
....

Based upon the expected tyre sizes and ratios, I will be turning 2300 rpm at 100 kph but, since I expect this truck will eventually end up in Costa Rica, I rarely expect to be driving that fast, considering the condition of the roads.

What is your maximum rpm? I assume that the governor limits rpm on these engines. Do you know if this limit can be easily adjusted?

nevrenufhp
01-15-2007, 04:53 PM
Is there a way to get info on the fuel rate for the Isuzu 4's, like the 4BD1T in the NPR? The one I saw said it was a Robby Bosch pump, so it's bound to have some sort of adjustments in there.

Dougal
01-15-2007, 09:46 PM
What is your maximum rpm? I assume that the governor limits rpm on these engines. Do you know if this limit can be easily adjusted?

Governed to 3600rpm.

Yes it can be adjusted higher very easily (adjustment screw). But running these engines near max RPM isn't a pleasant experience.

My EGT's climb quite quickly above 3000rpm, I suspect dropping volumetric efficiency is the cause. It feels like aroudn 3200 is peak power anyway.

If you set your max fueling for max EGT at max revs, then you start to lose more as you increase your maximum engine speed.

Dougal
01-15-2007, 09:47 PM
Is there a way to get info on the fuel rate for the Isuzu 4's, like the 4BD1T in the NPR? The one I saw said it was a Robby Bosch pump, so it's bound to have some sort of adjustments in there.

Do you mean cc per stroke?

nevrenufhp
01-16-2007, 08:01 AM
Yes, such as a fuel screw. I've done some on other Bosch pumps that were a screw & jamb nut, or fuel plate like in a Dodge. Maybe this will help:
http://www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp/index.htm
The site above is one I made to help people do their fuel rate adjustment. I want to do it to a friend's work truck, but dont want to take off every cover & bolt trying to find it.

Dougal
01-16-2007, 10:06 PM
Maximum fueling screw is also very easy to get to. It's an adjustable (screw and nut) external stop on an external cam.

My pump has a fuel aneroid on the back end. I want to get into that and remap it, but haven't got around to it yet.

nevrenufhp
01-17-2007, 07:08 AM
Ok, thanks! I get where you mean. I'll have to give it a whirl & see how he likes it. Does this only affect wide open performance, or is it more power thru the whole rpm range?

Dougal
01-17-2007, 09:57 PM
Ok, thanks! I get where you mean. I'll have to give it a whirl & see how he likes it. Does this only affect wide open performance, or is it more power thru the whole rpm range?

On my engine with the aneroid, the pump will only deliver maximum fuel when at a certain boost level (I think that's around 12psi).
This is independent of rpm as long as your turbo delivers the goods.

There's a screw on the back of the aneroid which acts as an internal stop to set the lower level of maximum fueling (when the aneroid sees no boost).
I have set this screw as far in as I can without the engine smoking with no boost.

At the moment with a bad turbo compressor wheel, I don't get full boost until over 2100rpm.
So the aneroid stops me getting full fuel and torque until this rpm.

staszekgra
01-22-2007, 09:39 PM
how can I swap Isuzu 4bd1T (or 4bd2TC ) into chevy pick up 1500; 1995-1998. I have a friend-mechanic. He told me that engine swap from gasser to Isuzu diesel will be piece of cake(mechanically) but he doesn't know about wiring it...
-what point to start from?
- What about truck computer, check engine light, truck's computer is needed in this case or not, if so,for what?
-Can you ignore truck computer system? which wires can i ignore? this is hard to figure it out?
- what components should I connect if i want motor running?
- do you have to have large electrical knowledge?
I saw http://www.isuzudieselswapper.com/ page but that guy offers engine-trans kit, not a word abt wiring that chevy 2006
Someone could write this process point by point, in few words?:smile:

Dougal
01-22-2007, 10:38 PM
Wiring up the diesel is as simple as alternator, starter and fuel start/stop relay.

Whether surplus wiring can just be removed is an interesting question. Especially regarding the US's emissions laws and possible computer code checks.

astr
01-23-2007, 01:28 PM
Wiring up the diesel is as simple as alternator, starter and fuel start/stop relay..

If you live where the temperatures go beloiw freezing, you would also want to wire up a glow plug timer and relay in addition to the alternator and starter. Still, the whole wiring schematic for a diesel engine is only one page as compared to pages and pages for a gasoline engine.

If the engine came from an NPR truck, they used an electric motor to activate the engine shutdown rather than a solenoid-operated fuel valve. This motor is connected by a cable to a lever on the injection pump and could easily be replaced with a manual pull cable, like a choke cable, to shut the engine down.



Whether surplus wiring can just be removed is an interesting question. Especially regarding the US's emissions laws and possible computer code checks..


The computer and the associated wiring and sensors that controlled the gasoline engine would not serve any further purpose once you convert to a diesel so their removal would not affect the operation of the diesel. What might trip you up are emission compliance rules in your area. I suspect that if you do not have to do regular emission testing in you area, you shouldn't have much problem with the swap. If you are subject to emission testing, then you better check carefully before you proceed with the swap as you could end up with a vehicle that you cannot legally drive on the street.

The 4BD1T was used until 1991 (on NPR trucks) and had no computer for fuel or emission control therefore no computer codes. The 4BD2T was used until 1997 and they may have added some primitive electronics in the last few years to turn on a "Check Engine" light but the basic fuel control was still mechanical.

Another area that you will have to address in a gasoline to diesel swap is the fuel system. If the vehicle is currently fuel injected, you will have bypass the high pressure fuel pump that is typically located in the gas tank. You will also have to add a better fuel filtering system as the standard gasoline fuel filter is inadequate. You will also have to modify/remove the vapor recovery charcoal canister that probably exists in your vehicle.

Based on my previous engine swap experience, I would suggest getting a complete and running donor vehicle. That way you have everything that you need to make the swap plus you can always refer back to the donor vehicle to see how something was done or connected. Starting with just an engine can be very costly once you add in all the misc. bits and pieces like fuel filters, vacuum pumps, glow plug timers and relays, etc.

staszekgra
01-23-2007, 05:27 PM
thanks for answers.

what about A/C and heating, I suppose it's independent? there is no catalytyc in the diesel so what with emission test? I live in Chicago area and I think that there is no such thing like diesel emission test...
hhm what abt controls on dashboard, oil, rpm etc.

Dougal
01-23-2007, 11:21 PM
If you live where the temperatures go beloiw freezing, you would also want to wire up a glow plug timer and relay in addition to the alternator and starter. Still, the whole wiring schematic for a diesel engine is only one page as compared to pages and pages for a gasoline engine.


My engine does not have the glowplugs connected. Coldest I have tried to start it is -10C, it started fine.
The boys on 4x4wire's isuzu forum have concocted glow plug controllers for people in colder climats.



If the engine came from an NPR truck, they used an electric motor to activate the engine shutdown rather than a solenoid-operated fuel valve. This motor is connected by a cable to a lever on the injection pump and could easily be replaced with a manual pull cable, like a choke cable, to shut the engine down.


There is a white plastic box/bag next to the engine which has two cables coming out of it. This contains the solenoids to trip both fuel control cables (fuel stop & excess fuel starting).
They are together wired up to one relay with one wire from the ignition "ON" circuit.


You will also have to add a better fuel filtering system as the standard gasoline fuel filter is inadequate.

The 4BD1T has it's own cartridge fuel filter which is on a recirculating feed from the tank.
No problems there.

:smile:

Dougal
01-23-2007, 11:27 PM
thanks for answers.

what about A/C and heating, I suppose it's independent? there is no catalytyc in the diesel so what with emission test? I live in Chicago area and I think that there is no such thing like diesel emission test...
hhm what abt controls on dashboard, oil, rpm etc.

Mounting a belt driven A/C compressor isn't difficult. Some NPR truck engines will come with one attached.
Heating is as simple as connecting the water pump lines to your existing heater lines.

Oil pressure is a simple switch to turn off your oil light. No drama to wire that in.

For a rev counter you take the feed off the alternator. Depending on your gauge it can be tricky.
My truck has a DC rev counter in which 1.5v is about 2300rpm. I built an adjustable frequency/voltage converter which takes the frequency of the 7v ripple from the alternator tacho feed and converts it linearly to a voltage to drive my rev counter.
Once you've got it together it's just a case of calibrating it (using governed max rpm or calculated rpm at certain speeds).

astr
01-24-2007, 10:02 AM
My engine does not have the glowplugs connected. Coldest I have tried to start it is -10C, it started fine.
The boys on 4x4wire's isuzu forum have concocted glow plug controllers for people in colder climats.:

That's good to know. I haven't had any experience with the Isuzu in cold weather but my Ford Powerstroke and a chinese diesel tractor that I have won't start below freezing if the glow plugs aren't working properly.


There is a white plastic box/bag next to the engine which has two cables coming out of it. This contains the solenoids to trip both fuel control cables (fuel stop & excess fuel starting).
They are together wired up to one relay with one wire from the ignition "ON" circuit.

The 4BD1T has it's own cartridge fuel filter which is on a recirculating feed from the tank.
No problems there.

:smile:

Again, i would recommend getting a running donor truck as it would have the glow plug relay/timer, the fuel shutdown/enrichment components and the fuel filter setup. I've found that I can buy a whole running truck for less than I can buy just an engine.

In addition to the engine-mounted fuel filter that Dougal mentions, there is a frame-mounted water separator and a dual cartridge primary fuel filter. Both the engine-mounted and frame-mounted filters use spin-on cartridges, similar to an oil filter. Maybe the primary filters aren't necessary but I would certainly include a water separator.

staszekgra
01-24-2007, 08:25 PM
thanx Dougal and astr

Astr, can you give me any hint about donor trucks, salvage lot or something lkt in our area (MI, IL) thx again

astr
01-24-2007, 09:56 PM
thanx Dougal and astr

Astr, can you give me any hint about donor trucks, salvage lot or something lkt in our area (MI, IL) thx again
Keep your eyes open - they are every where. Try your local classified ads. A friend of mine bought one from a police auction cheap. The two that I have, I found on ebay, both in the Columbus, OH area. I've seen them on ebay in teh Chicago area in times past.

The 1986 to 1991 NPR trucks had the 4BD1T engine, turbocharged but not intercooled. They produced 121 hp for the manual transmission model and 126 hp for the auto. The 4BD1T is a direct injected engine which seems to be what most prefer. Rumor has it that they are more efficient but somewhat noiser. From 1992 to 1997, these trucks came with 4BD2T engines, turbocharged and intercooled. They were rated at 135 hp, however, they were indirect injected. The blocks are esentially interchangeable between the 4BD1T and the 4BD2T. The main difference, as far as I can tell, is in the head. The turbos also appear to be interchangeable. I suspect the additional hp of the 4BD2T is entirely due to the intercooler, not the difference in heads. After 1997, they went to the 4HE1TC series engines that are a totally different beast. If you are considering using the adapter from http://www.isuzudieselswapper.com/ then you have to stick to the 4BD1T/4BDT2 engines.

The trucks were also sold under the GMC and Chevy badges but some GMC and Chevy trucks were gasoline powered and had a totally GM engine and transmission. These trucks came under model names like NPR, W4, 4000, and Tiltmaster.

I'll keep my eyes open for any in the Chicago area.

bart83
01-25-2007, 08:44 AM
I have been researching the 4bt repowering for 1 year now. I would consider the isuzu, always have liked them.

Can anyone tell us what the max hp and tq you can get, plus have a reliable daily driver? I really would like to see some numbers......:)

Dougal
01-28-2007, 12:51 AM
I have been researching the 4bt repowering for 1 year now. I would consider the isuzu, always have liked them.

Can anyone tell us what the max hp and tq you can get, plus have a reliable daily driver? I really would like to see some numbers......:)

I don't know of anyone winding these engines up in the same way as the cummins boys do.

Stock you're talking 100kw and 330Nm with no smoke other than startup. Stock EGT's run under 500C. But it's a much bigger 330Nm of torque than any other engine I've driven with the same figures on paper. They eat gearboxes which were put behind petrol engines with supposedly similar figures.

I've only increased fuel and boost above stock a little, the other work I have to do on my truck holds up progress in the engine department. My goal is 200hp with a broad torque curve and no smoke. I don't see it being a problem. These engines do 500,000km between piston ring and liner kits.

bart83
02-04-2007, 03:42 PM
Dougal, Thanks for the reply.

I will research the Isuzu option some more. I want a diesel SUV, have thought about a ford expedition 4Wd, a 2002 model.

i like that the Isuzu is shorter and quieter, but the HP and TQ ratings may not perform as good as the Cummins. I will continue looking for some one that has turned up the Isuzu and made it a reliable daily driver.

I could go with a larger Isuzu. A 4WD expedition is heavy, so I do not want an underpowered slow ride. I pull a small pontoon boat a few times a year also.

I also thought about converting to a manual trans, just to squeeze out the best MPG. I would do that for the WOW factor. Maybe a SUV that gets close to 40MPG....:)

If I find any usable information, I will post it here.

Thanks Again.................:)

Dougal
02-06-2007, 01:36 AM
I will continue looking for some one that has turned up the Isuzu and made it a reliable daily driver.

I've been looking for a while. There are a few guys on http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/index.php with them.
One guy was talking about 500Nm from his (unsure if that's real dyno or butt dyno). He lunched a few ZF autos.

Otherwise you'll have to wait a few years for me to find all the fragile parts.:grinpimp:

My new water/air intercooler arrived today. Installation will be some time away.

dieselcruiserhead
02-18-2007, 11:44 PM
a friend with a FJ62 is going to install one.. I posted some pics on this thread, take a look..
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1867459#post1867452

Dougal
02-19-2007, 10:15 PM
a friend with a FJ62 is going to install one.. I posted some pics on this thread, take a look..
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1867459#post1867452

Nice.
That's a very late model engine by the looks, it has the same turbo and exhaust manifold as the 4BD2's.
I have one of those turbos and have been trying to get the matching manifold for some time. But the owner is a lazy b*stard.

That gearbox is an MSA family with exactly the same case as mine. Does he know the model?