• 4BT, CPL 858. I found this locally and purchased it with the starter and Ford transmission adaptor for $2 000. The stock engine is a 5.4L V8.
• The stock transmission is a 4R70W automatic. To use this transmission, I would have to buy a different adaptor, rework the torque converter, and buy an aftermarket electronic controller. Or I could just use the Mazda M5R2 manual transmission that is so successfully used by others on this board. Since the cost of using the auto trans adds about $2500 to the job, and an M5R2 was $165 at the local U-Pull It, the choice was easy. Plus, I know of no one else can say they have a manual transmission Expedition.
• I am using the stock transfer case. This is electronically controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), which looks at wheel speed, front and rear shaft speeds and decides to engage the front wheels if there is slippage. While I would prefer to have a lever on the floor, this is a nice feature for my wife and family who will be driving in the snow. I was worried about the connection between the M5R2 transmission and the transfer case since I could only confirm from the data available in my manual and on the internet that both were made with 31-tooth splines. Average f250 told me they would bolt together without any modifications. This gave me a great deal of confidence to forge ahead-- Thanks Average!

The overall length of the M5R2 is within 1/4" of the stock transmission, so I may not have to change the length of the drivelines, Although the crossmember is not directly under the mount for the M5R2.

• Use the stock gearing of 3.73 ratios with 235-80 x 17 tires (31.8" OD). This tire is about 0.2" taller than the stock tires and a little narrower. They are truck tires that can be inflated to 80psi, which should improve mileage some. I have been using them at 60 psi with the gas engine, but no measureable improvement. This will put me at about 1900 rpm at 60mph, which is acceptable to me. We do not drive 70 on the freeways (for the most part), so this is fine.

• The ABS is critical to the function of the AWD, so I needed to use a vacuum pump for the stock brakes. I found a power steering pump / vac pump combo from a 6BT.
• The AC is a must to keep everyone happy in the summer, so I plan to use a 6BT style "straight-out" water inlet and put the stock AC compressor in the original location, hopefully without having to open the AC lines.
• I found a clutch pedal assembly, master cylinder, and remote reservoir from a 2000 F-150. There is a hole in the firewall in exactly the right place. I was able to remove the stock brake pedal and install the new clutch pedal assembly before the swap. I will use the normally open part of the clutch pedal position switch to communicate with the former auto transmission control that the trans is in "neutral" (clutch disengaged, switch closed, TCU thinks it is in park or neutral).
• I found an intercooler that is 19"H x 24"W x 3" thick with 2-1/2" inlet/outlets. Plan to run 2-1/2" tubing from the turbo and to the intake manifold.
• Add a 3200-rpm spring and leave the pump/turbo alone unless I think I need more power after driving it for awhile. The goal is good fuel economy with no degradation in driving performance compared to the gas engine. We don't tow anything, so this should be OK. Well----someday I think it would be cool to find a ski boat with a bad inboard motor and swap it for a 4BT, but that only exists in my mind right now (hope my wife does not read this).
• I will use the engine oil pressure, water temperature, tachometer and throttle position sensor from the gas engine to communicate back to the ECU and to my stock gauges. I know that when I'm done I will end up with a "check engine" light. However, this only means that you should open the hood and check out how cool the engine is.