Best method to do a Cummins conversion into a Super Duty
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Thread: Best method to do a Cummins conversion into a Super Duty

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    '69 FJ55 Land Cruiser dieselcruiserhead's Avatar
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    Default Best method to do a Cummins conversion into a Super Duty

    I'm curious on opinions on the best method to do a Cummins conversion into a Super Duty if you had to buy the truck still.

    1999-2004 are leaf sprung (edited, used to read to 2005)

    Diesel models are International 7.3 from 1999 to 2003.5, then the 6.0 diesel after. Both are "drive by wire" meaning fully electronic including a sensor on the gas pedal. The benefit of a diesel is you have a trans that is tuned for a diesel app like a Cummins (though it still needs help via a trans controller) but you have to buy a gas pedal, and initial cost on the diesel is much higher. That said you can sell your engine for hopefully $2500-$3500 or more depending on mileage and condition of the engine.

    Gas apps like the V8 and V10 work fine for the conversion according to destroked, etc.

    Using a diesel app manual trans gets you the ZF 6 speed, which is awesome. I think these were available in V10 apps too??

    Slightly less work on the diesel as far as draining fuel, etc.


    _______________________

    I've also found all sorts of 6.0s cheap with blown or majorly F'd engines. I also found good posts about replacing the 6.0 head gaskets, using studs, and milling the heads, and then they are actually pretty reliable, just as good as the 7.3 supposedly...
    Last edited by dieselcruiserhead; 12-13-2009 at 07:05 PM.
    1991 Toyota Pickup, Mercedes 300D OM617 diesel
    1969 Land Cruiser project in progress with 4BT
    1989 Land Cruiser project in progress with 4BT
    2010 KTM 450

    Successfully installed 4BT, Isuzu 4BD1T, and Mercedes 300D engines into different vehicles.

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    Yeah lets see some info on the conversion! I found a local F450 4X4 crewcab with a service body (that i need for work) and V10 that i'm thinking of dumping my '97 12 valve into. V-mac compressor, Espar, 19,5" wheels, warn 12K, perfect for an oil field work truck.
    Now who's got a nice big shop and extra hands!!!??

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    if you lived close to me i would be in on that one always wanted to do a 450 550 swap.
    1999 ford f-250 superduty 5.9 cummins built 4r100 trans and alot of engine mods

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    a couple minor corrections:

    '99 - '04 are leaf sprung front ends; the switch to coils was made in '05 w/ the new styling.

    '03's had both the 7.3 and 6.0 offered; there is no "break-point" in the model year to designate the different engine/trans. case in point: my 6.0 truck has a Dec '02 build date.

    lastly, your note about making 6.0's reliable is fairly accurate, but you're missing one thing: egr. adding an egr elimination kit will eliminate "puking" when high egt's flash engine coolant. but, yes, studs will keep the heads from lifting. o-rings are just insurance.
    Travis

    '03 F350 PSD, some mods

    '96 2500 4wd Ram, Cummins/5spd, many mods to come...

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    I have an '04 F250 4x4, ZF6 trans with a 4BT. The truck came with a 6.0
    Things to immediately consider:
    6.0 liters are like leprosy to most used dealers, they don't want to get stuck with them, so they are dirt cheap at auction.

    The 5r110 can be used from either a V10 or a 6.0 since they are both fully electronic. Buy a stand alone controller and you are done. destroked dot com offers a nice unit for this, along with one of the most impressive bellhousing adapters I have seen, PERIOD, nothing touches it for bolt in guaranteed fitup. No hacking up anything, just a socket set will get your transmission bolted up to the 5.9 with their parts.

    A diesel vin# will give you higher resale value if you insure it for beyond minimum coverage. (5.4 v8 superduties are disposable to most adjusters when you ask for value, good luck getting that nice Cummins added onto an insurance claim for a gas truck, they can make your life miserable with the EPA if you didn't have it verified and the title changed to reflect the different fuel type. Is this a low life thing for an adjuster to pull?... yes, but they are adjusters and are determined to keep the claim as low as absolutely possible. Something to think about that few give even a passing thought to. This happened to a buddy of mine that we converted a Samurai with a 1.9 mechanically injected VW diesel engine. Total loss on it didn't even pay for the engine.

    The thought of the diesel's electronic accelerator verses a gas super duty is barely even worth considering mentioning. A V-10 accelerator pedal assembly from the dealer is less than $60.00. (just bought one 2 month ago for mine). The throttle cable will net another $48.00 from the dealer for a factory Ford cable. So figure just over a whopping $100.00 for brand new parts to deal with the go pedal. 3 bolts and a 10 mm socket is all you need to change the pedal out. The hole for the throttle cable is plugged with a plastic grommet behind the firewall insulation, just pull it forward and pop out the grommet, cut a small hole in the insulation to slip the throttle cable through and you're done. (destroked sells a collet style throttle cable end to hook up to the the Cummins injection pump linkage for $100.00, but you'll need it either with a gas or diesel truck, so that's just a part of the conversion parts list to me either way)

    Southbend Clutch has a conversion flywheel and clutch assembly to mate the 5.9 up to the ZF5 or ZF6, just make sure you tell them which one you have, along with the engine type, 12 valve, 24valve, or commonrail. The spacing for the starter ring gear is different between the 12 valve and the newer ones. If you call Southbend directly, ask for Peter, he knows the setup and can tell you what they offer specific to the engine/trans and year you have.

    An upper radiator hose from a Dodge pickup will get fit up nicely to the Ford's upper radiator inlet. The lower can be handled by joining 2 hoses together. I have the part #'s from mine if you need them. I have a 4BT though, so I had to find slightly longer ones than a 5.9 will require.

    Engine mounts are readily available from autoworld in Montana for a true bolt in fit up. Kenny (the owner) uses Destroked's bellhousing adapter so his mounts are a good matchup for you if you go that route). Kenny also sells Ford alternator brackets for the 5.9 Cummins.

    I'll be posting photos of my setup as soon as I can get them uploaded and linked here. I am VERY happy with the result of the 4BT in my F250, it is more than enough for a bobtailed pickup used for a parts runner or commuter truck. I have not bother to fabricate charge cooler pipes yet, so I am still running the 4BT with the direct turbo to intake cross over pipe. Once I get the Charge air cooler hooked up, I will be installing a smaller turbine housing and bumping the fuel up along with pump timing. I have a small tilt deck trailer I pull from time to time so I want a little more boost and torque for those tasks.

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    DieselHead.... where are you finding all the superduties with blown 6.0's???

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    Quote Originally Posted by ford4bt View Post
    DieselHead.... where are you finding all the superduties with blown 6.0's???
    Just about any Ford dealer's back row will have several. Most used car dealers are scared to death of them, but their wholesalers are still having to push them through the auctions. I had a list of over 40 to choose from when I was looking for mine.

    The 6.0's are the easiest to locate dead or dying. I don't care what you hear, that engine is junk, full of problems that cost several thousand dollars to remedy with aftermarket parts. Far too many contractor friends I work with have nearly lost their businesses as a result of these engines. Finding a competent mechanic to keep them running without weeks of downtime is rare, enough that most contractor and delivery companies have parked them with for sale signs in the window or just let them be repo'ed. Keep an eye out at the impound and repo auctions, in addition to credit union repo sales at their branch locations.

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    Great Info! My wife wants a truck. I won't buy one because there are no decent late model small diesels. I cringe thinking about living with a gasser. I'm going to start looking for a late model Ford 6.0 with big cab now. If you find any let me know please. I'm in SW KY.
    True self-esteem comes only from what your dog thinks of you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ford4bt View Post
    DieselHead.... where are you finding all the superduties with blown 6.0's???
    I find them on the local classifieds www.ksl.com all the time. At least 1-2 on there when I have searched... There should be a couple right now, they would be located here in Utah. Most people just buck up and have them repaired it seems...
    1991 Toyota Pickup, Mercedes 300D OM617 diesel
    1969 Land Cruiser project in progress with 4BT
    1989 Land Cruiser project in progress with 4BT
    2010 KTM 450

    Successfully installed 4BT, Isuzu 4BD1T, and Mercedes 300D engines into different vehicles.

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    6.0 quad cab trucks that arent running right usually go through a auction $3000 to $6000 In north La. 7.3 powerstrokes are bring a preminum

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    if someday you go to brazil on vacations go to a ford dealer to see super duties originally powered by 4bt... current brazilian versions of f350 and f550 still have mechanical injection, but just with 5spd manual transmission... in south american super duties the 7.3 power stroke was used just for rhd trucks exported to australia and new zealand...

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    Brideless...

    Which auction are you talking about in Louisiana? I live in California and am wanting to do the exact same thing as DieselHead but I cant find a newer f250/350 with the 6.0 (2005-2007 are the years I would prefer) with a blown engine anywhere.

    I'm looking for an automatic 4x4 lariat crew cab short bed. If those are going for 3-6K over there please give me more info and I will fly over there and buy one....seriously.

    Im just having a hard time buying a 2000-03 f250/350 and paying 13-15K just to drop another 15K for the swap to a new Cummins 5.9 common rail.

    If I cant find one for that price range (up to 7K or so) then I'll buy one for 13-15K and just drive it till it blows or until I can save up enough to do the swap...which will take FOREVER...haha

    My reasoning for the 2005-2007 model is the way better suspension/turning radius and nicer interior.

    But if you can please let me know and I will be on the next plane over there..lol

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    I'm in Shreveport, LA now. I'll be visiting the auctions once I get a shop set back up. If I come across one, I will bring it home and give you the option to buy it. I am planning to specialize in Ford repowers, so whether you follow through with it or not is not an issue for me. I need a crew cab shortbed for the mrs. She is fed up with risking her life in her little car with all the uninsured/drunks and overloaded weld trucks blowing through stoplights in this city. I figure getting her into an actual structurally sound vehicle and paying the fuel costs will be financially more intelligent than somebody hurting her or our kids The vending machine driver's license program they seem to be using here needs to go.
    Last edited by wrenchbender; 02-13-2012 at 10:22 PM.

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    '69 FJ55 Land Cruiser dieselcruiserhead's Avatar
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    I'll keep my eyes out as well. If you want to search here go to KSL.com click "classifieds" then cars. Search the years you're looking for and then sort by price. The ones with the blown engines and transmissions and other major mechanical problems are cheaper of course..
    1991 Toyota Pickup, Mercedes 300D OM617 diesel
    1969 Land Cruiser project in progress with 4BT
    1989 Land Cruiser project in progress with 4BT
    2010 KTM 450

    Successfully installed 4BT, Isuzu 4BD1T, and Mercedes 300D engines into different vehicles.

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    Default several questions about F250s and Cummins

    Thanks, WrenchBender for your lengthy and informative posts. I hope to hear from you in particular.

    I've read all the posts on Cummins into Ford and have some questions.

    1. Why the worry about leaf vs. coil front ends? Is it just personal preference or is there some reason behind the Cummins swap?

    2. If I were to order a new engine, what exactly is the VE pump or automotive pump? Is there a reason you can't use an industrial engine (like the new QSB 4.5) in an automotive application?

    3. What other considerations should I make when purchasing a new engine? (water pump, exhaust configuration, engine mounts, bellhousing mounts, starter location, etc.)

    4. If I could find a cheaper truck with a V10 gas, instead of the 6.0 Joke, then would the stock manual tranny hold the torque? Or would it be geared too high for a Cummins? I think I would prefer the 6spd manual that came behind the 6.0, but I may not get to be that choosy.

    5. I am fairly new to the board, but have wondered how I could make the stock tachometer work. Do they read off the tranny or the flywheel? Also, what about the brake booster? If I get a gasser truck, I would have to come up with some vacuum for the brake booster or convert it into hydraulic, which requires an auxiliary pump. One of the reasons (besides fuel economy and weight) I prefer the 4B over the 6B is that I wouldn't have to "shoehorn" as much crap in there. Perhaps I would have more room for AC compressors and such.

    6. Do most people prefer electric fans or is it just as easy to drive the cooling fan with the pulley and/or water pump?

    7. If I succeed in finding a 6.0 PS and decide to sell just the engine as a good take-out, what price might it fetch?

    Thanks a bunch! Hope to hear from you. Nathan

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    If you blow the 6.0, it is worth about scrap plus a few accessory parts. I pulled the 6.0 out of mine when it was still running so it was more martketable.

    The core on a 6.0 is just stupid expensive when you factor in all the accessory parts a pull out engine has on it, so don't cut your own throat by just selling it to get rid of it. I put mine up for sale for $4,000 and had several buyers calling, the hold back on them was it was already on a pallet and I couldn't prove it was a runner anymore. I just ended up selling it for $3,000.00 with the turbo, Navistar ECM and all the discarded parts I pulled from the truck for the 3.9's install. I was happy to get it out of my storage unit, otherwise I could have sat on it a bit longer and fetched more I'm sure. I had 6 people call me the day I posted it for sale at $3,000.00. The guy who did show up brought cash and did not argue a minute for it when I told him it would not be held until paid in full or a non refundable deposit was agreed to with the balance due BEFORE pickup. Take that in consideration when you look at trying to resell a diesel pull out verses a V-10.

    V-10 trucks are holding value in the superduty years that mirror'ed the 6.0, so you are not likely to find the same lower price on a v-10 as a 6.0 may be dumped for.

    I've heard all the loyalist Ford cult followers rant and rave about how great the 6.0 engine is, so my suggestion if you find these types of sellers is to expect a written guarantee on the engine if they want to get dealer price for it

    I would not worry too much about the Ford tranny's taking a Cummins, they will fine under reasonable use. I would stick with a diesel truck to make sure the gearing is close in the axles for a B series power range. I am running the stock 3.73 gears in mine without too much of an issue. I do run out of engine at 83-85 mph, but for me, that is more than enough for me. (3000 rpm governed engine is the holdback)
    '04 F250 XLT ext cab long bed 4x4 with 4BT, ZF6, 3.73 gears, 285/75/R16

    22mpg+ /15 mpg towing

    www.autoworldmt.com www.destroked.com

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    How fast is your engine running at that high a speed? How is your mileage?

    I know what you say about the drivers down there. Watch out if you get hit by the judge's nephew or some old blue blood. You will never get justice. I lived in M***** for a while and I saw things I could not believe. Even recently have a friend up here that was hit down there in La. and his case disappeared into the vacuum. Otherwise it's a great place. Totally regretted leaving.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselSchlepper View Post
    How fast is your engine running at that high a speed? How is your mileage?

    I know what you say about the drivers down there. Watch out if you get hit by the judge's nephew or some old blue blood. You will never get justice. I lived in M***** for a while and I saw things I could not believe. Even recently have a friend up here that was hit down there in La. and his case disappeared into the vacuum. Otherwise it's a great place. Totally regretted leaving.
    The pump is governed to 3,000 rpm's max. At 84 mph, I hit the governer. I know some take it further, but I'm not interested in taking mine any further than that myself.

    I have a back woods southern lawyer on my wife's side of the family, he a black sheep to most of the family, but is well integrated into the workings of the old south legal system. Our insurance doubled from Alabama to Louisiana, even with a military deduction that the State provides all veterans. It is apparent already why.
    '04 F250 XLT ext cab long bed 4x4 with 4BT, ZF6, 3.73 gears, 285/75/R16

    22mpg+ /15 mpg towing

    www.autoworldmt.com www.destroked.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by wrenchbender View Post
    I'm in Shreveport, LA now.
    WOW! I live and bought my truck in northern IN, The window sticker from the glove-box indicated my truck was sold at a dealer in Shreveport! I was thinking a 6bt but now you got me thinking 4bt. I drive like a grandpa, don't need to pull sleads, but I do go wheeling. Figure a 4bt could lug a big old F-250 through off road trails? I got the 4 speed auto, with 3.73s.

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    Torque is torque, a 4bt will still pull stumps out. (as will any inline diesel) You're on your own with the auto, I can't help you there, I won't own a diesel truck with a auto behind it unless it is bone stock. Putting the effort to repower a F250 with an auto is just not worth it to me. It can be done and many have great results with it, I'm not a fan myself. I'm running 3.73 gears.

    If you are truely a grandpa driver like I am usually, you will be happy with the 4BT. These engines do fine in a P-30 bread truck for courier and delivery services. My F250 does well even with factory fuel settings, it is just not a race horse. With minor fuel adjustments it can do much better, but I'm happy with the MPG, so I'm leaving it be for now.
    '04 F250 XLT ext cab long bed 4x4 with 4BT, ZF6, 3.73 gears, 285/75/R16

    22mpg+ /15 mpg towing

    www.autoworldmt.com www.destroked.com

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    Kinda stuck with rhe auto. Retired Army, disabled, couldn't take the shifting going to the VA in Chicago traffic. I love picking the gear, I wonder if, like a hot rod, you can get a 4R100 to have a manual valve body and TC lockup? I really would like to choose my gear. It helps when offroading. That is also my main 4bt concern. Bread trucks deliver in town... a '99 F-250 crew cab is a lot of weight to lug around an off road trail. I'm sure the 4bt would suffice for everyday driving, but wonder if I should stick with my original 6bt 12 valve plan. I walk with a cane, don't like having to pull out the winch line (Funny how is always seems to make for a good story later) Waiting on VA disability backpay so I'll be doing tranny at the same time. Not to smart to put a new strong engine in front of a 200k+ slushbox and t-case. I'm thinking of ATS...

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    Been gone a long time from here, life has a way of doing that. If you need to run the auto, destroked.com can set you up with a controller. Scott has more than enough proof of them working behind him with the setups he is running.

    The 4BT in my truck has done very well since I repowered it. I don't hamer through off road areas with it, but I do subject it to frequent steep terrain and back wood trails. It has never required me feeling a need to go to a 5.9 in that regard. Pulling a trailer on the interstate is about the only time I'm getting the urge for more power now, 70 mph with a 10,000 lb trailer is asking alot of it, but it will hold, just don't expect to get in the hammer lane and pass very fast. Mileage has remained constant at 22 or better running empty on the interstate, but my in town fuel has dropped to about 15-16 mpg for some reason. Not sure what has changed, I'm going with a different turbo currently, truck is torn down awaiting more parts.
    '04 F250 XLT ext cab long bed 4x4 with 4BT, ZF6, 3.73 gears, 285/75/R16

    22mpg+ /15 mpg towing

    www.autoworldmt.com www.destroked.com

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    First off, I'd like to say that this board and it's members are a big help. Thanks for all of the information sharing that I've gleaned for several years. I'm just finishing up a 2005 Cummins 5.9 HPCR and Allison 1000 (5 speed) transplant into my 2000 Ford Excursion 4x4 that had one too many blown up 7.3 Powerstroke engines in it by 117,000 miles. Here's the bottom line: Would I do another conversion? Yes- conditionally: with my 20/20 hind sight: I would ONLY buy a complete a roll-over and transplant EVERYTHING I needed out of that. I mean literally the ENTIRE vehicle, not just a "complete engine package with the computer." Piecemeal effort is FAR too expensive and more aggravating than anyone deserves.

    Here are the gory details of 3.5 years and countless thousands of wasted dollars:

    The problems and expenses encountered FAR exceeded the savings I got by buying a "quick deal" on a "dyno-test engine with only a couple pulls on it." Even the throttle pedal has been an expensive nightmare- I just discovered the one I bought at a wrecking yard 3 years ago for $100 is dead. A new one is around $500 and there are 36 of them on back order at the local dodge dealer. Finding something that will work will consume my entire day today. My dyno engine had been dyno'ed to death- the rings were worn out, consequently it didn't have enough compression to start. Complete rebuild after I had everything completely installed. Then the injectors leaked so badly where the fuel feed tube fits into them that it wouldn't start despite $300 in new fuel feed tubes. That's a common problem. So I just bought ($365 each) the last 6 available re-manufactured injectors in the universe. There aren't any other new or remans available from Bosch for the next SEVEN MONTHS. It seems they screwed up on their "just in time" anticipation of market demand, meaning their injectors WEAR OUT MUCH sooner than anticipated. BTW, I had new Dynomite Diesel Performance injector tips put on the injectors that came with the engine. Bosch has since changed the injectors so the $1,000 I spent on those tips is now totally wasted because I can't send the cores back without tips and I don't have any old ones. So much for selling the DDP tips on e-bay. The $1,100 remanufactured computer was missing when I bought the engine and because it's a Freightliner configuration with a rear gear train, I couldn't get a dodge computer to understand when to fire the injectors (cam and crank position sensors are in a different location than Dodge Cummins). The $1,800 wiring harness I cobbled up to fit a Dodge ECM had to be replaced to convert back to Freightliner- That's just for just the ENGINE harness, PLUS the "OEM" side harness had to be completely de-pinned, rerouted and modified. Exhaust system mods, custom intake tubes requiring welding and installation of a bung for a sensor. The alternator bracket had the stub-out for the lower radiator hose in the wrong place and that bracket was something like $300. The crankshaft has 6 bolts in the harmonic balancer end instead of 4 like a dodge, so no aftermarket balancer is available. The cast aluminum Allison output shaft housing is NOT up to holding up the enormous transfer case found on a Superduty and I had to buy a billet hog-out from Suncoast. I believe they are now getting $1,400 for that piece. The Precision Industries billet converter was around $1,400. The Allison computer (which will NOT talk to the Dodge or Freightliner ECM) requires reluctor wheel on the output shaft, which meant sending my transfer case out for a modified exchange unit for $1,000. Drive shaft length mods, custom engine mounts that didn't fit, custom tranny mount, custom regulated/modified fuel system, endless codes from the ECM because I switched to a waste gated turbo and no EGR because the VGT turbo system made the engine 3/4" too wide to fit in the truck because I insisted on having an air compressor mounted on the opposite (driver's) side...which required notching the firewall back and there was nothing left to cut without moving the steering rod. SAE #3 housing had to be chopped on a bit too, and the tranny hump had to be totally redesigned, fabricated and installed. God only knows if I'll ever be able to run a heater duct to the driver's side under the dash, and there will now be NO back seat heat. The missing fan and hub have cost me around $500 by the time I've gotten everything modified to fit correctly, and now the Freightliner ECM isn't interested in the Dodge electronic hub control. The custom big-truck power steering pump doesn't seem to be working now that I've gotten the engine started. New alternator, new big truck starter, new AC pump, new custom AC lines, funky cut and paste radiator hoses and steel tubes, MAYBE the heater will work, had to buy and modify a floor shifter for the tranny. Had to buy an oil filter relocation kit from Destroked. Had to have new battery cables and boxes fabbed. I now have ATS intake and exhaust manifolds that negate me ever taking the truck into Cummins for any diagnostics due to their EPA oversight. Had to fab custom intercooler piping and special order aftermarket boots. The Smarty I bought for the Dodge computer isn't going to work on the Freightliner computer. Don't even THINK about building a custom fuel line for the HPCR when the twin CP3 line won't fit- it has to hold up to 28,000 PSI. Good luck finding tubing that can hold that pressure. Just cut a junk one in half to get an idea of how thick that tubing wall thickness is- yet it flexes and breaks from the pressure spikes in the common rail. Then there was the head porting and polishing and the custom cam shaft expenses that will never provide enough cooling and power to justify their costs. Etc, etc, yadda yadda yadda.

    Don't take all of that as endless bitching- instead, take it as a reality check BEFORE you tear your truck apart. Follow the "K.I.S.S." method for the entire program which you need to map out ahead of time and thoroughly research before snipping even one wire or loosening one bolt. There is NO such thing as a "Cummins to Dodge" cross reference sheet, so don't assume you can get equivalent parts at each dealership. Example- On the intake plenum plate, Freightliner has two sensors: temperature and pressure. Dodge combined them and uses a different plate. I now own BOTH setups and those sensors are NOT cheap. Be certain of what will fit ahead of time, don't make ANY assumptions about "modifying" a Cummins- they do everything by engine serial number, vs Dodge and Freightliner do everything by VIN. Get the complete ECM wiring schematic from Cummins. Buy,beg or borrow access to Cummins Quickserve through someone at Cummins with high level access. Most importantly, understand clearly that this is not a two-weekend job. I've spent 3.5 YEARS on this project adding up to MONTHS of free time and vacations wasted. Had I known what I know now, I would have gone about this completely differently- which would have saved me at least $10,000 and countless months of wasted time.

    Lastly, Destroked is spendy but worth it. Shop there first. If you're worried about a 4R100 holding up, get a BTS rebuild (Brians Truck Shop, Lead Hill, Arkansas). I could have cried when I sold mine so I could get one extra gear in an Allison. That was a STUPID, EXPENSIVE decision.
    Last edited by clam; 02-03-2011 at 02:13 PM. Reason: added BTS info.

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    Local guy to us, just did a CRD into his StuporDuty...

    http://www.idahodieselpower.com/show...hlight=Fummins

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    Daily Driver: 01 Ex-Cab SB Superduty, 12v Cummins, 47RH, Gear Vendors, Avg MPG 20 looking for more...

    Toy: White 01 Superduty, Ex-Cab SB, 4x4, Built 12V Cummins, HTS Billet 47RH, 8" Stack, 796 HP 1300 ft/lbs #2, 1374 HP 2500+ ft/lb on the gas.

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    http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...d.php?t=102414

    Here is a good platform for a swap I have been eyeing.. Its in MI. I think he will do $9500, 04 Crew cab long box 6.0 with nice body.

    phone # 517 937 88zerozero
    Daily Driver: 01 Ex-Cab SB Superduty, 12v Cummins, 47RH, Gear Vendors, Avg MPG 20 looking for more...

    Toy: White 01 Superduty, Ex-Cab SB, 4x4, Built 12V Cummins, HTS Billet 47RH, 8" Stack, 796 HP 1300 ft/lbs #2, 1374 HP 2500+ ft/lb on the gas.

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    In case anyone is still interested- I've got my Cummins/Allison Excursion on the road. The tranny needs some different programming or I have to figure out the "tow haul" switching. Other than that, I'm just working out the little details now. I'm pleased with it. Perhaps at some point I'll run a SAE J-1939 backbone so the engine and tranny will speak to each other, but for now I don't have time. Note: you can't do that with the dodge cummins ECM- only the Freightliner ECM.

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    Clam,

    good to see you post that the beast runs, i am at Peak Diesel now. Dave
    WWW.PEAKDIESELPERFORMANCE.COM TOLL FREE 1-877-858-7325

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    bump
    True self-esteem comes only from what your dog thinks of you.

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    Here's some questions:

    Great thread:

    I'm really thinking hard about buying this 2004, King Cab XLT. Got em down to $3500 and it's a nice shiney truck with an entirely new front end.

    I want to convert to manual - thinking about a rebuilt ZF-s542 which would be plenty of strength for the 4bt and the guy selling has all the mounts etc I need.

    I'm going to change the steering column, instrument cluster etc to manual.

    FYI The Ford factory manual says you should use the brake/clutch pedal out of a diesel because the throw is 1" less for the gassers for the clutch to activate the diesel slave cylinder.

    THe big question I have is the computer. Can the automatic trans computer just be disconnected? Will I need to put a manual computer for engine control in so the dash will work correctly? That way I can just buy the sensor conversion adaptors to save time rather than machining them myself.

    How about all the other install issues: really don't want to buy all the stuff ($2500)from destroked or fordcummins if I don't need it. Will the six cylinder engine stands and original mounts discussed elsewhere work on a 2004 SuperDuty?
    Last edited by DieselSchlepper; 02-09-2012 at 07:19 AM.
    True self-esteem comes only from what your dog thinks of you.

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