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4-53 Power Wagon The Rebirth

34K views 96 replies 20 participants last post by  dieharddiesel 
#1 · (Edited)
What I'm starting with- 1978 Dodge Power Wagon crew cab.
Engine- 4-53 Detroit Diesel
Transmission- Allison 4 speed with 3 speed aux, and 2 speed rear end.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Pickup truck


Obviously its not a bone stock truck I'm going to build from scratch. The truck originally belonged to my grandfather who passed away in 1994 when i was only 2 years old. My mother inherited it and gave it to me. I'm now 18 and plan on going to college and building this truck at the same time.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Pickup truck

Vehicle Engine Auto part Car

If you are paying close attention to the picture you will see that it is dually. It sits on a 2 ton ford frame.
The plans...
-full air ride suspension
-air starter
-air horns (thats all for the air)
-add a turbo (have no clue on sizing)
-put modern dodge hips on I might do mega cab hips
-larger injectors
-6 inch stacks out side of bed
-axles maybe
-1 ton transfer case if I go 4x4
-mud tires and wheel spacers
-a sound system
 
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#11 ·
Sounds like it's going to be a beautiful truck when finished! I'm doing something similar to my '74 W300, so we may be able to help each other out as the build goes along; I've progressed on mine some, but can't really update the thread since my computer is busted.

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showt...r-s-1975-Dodge-W300-4-53-Detroit-Build-Thread

And actually, there were dually 70's dodges; mine is a stock dually - all the power wagons from the fire depts. around here are duallys, and according to the records at the fire station, plus the door tags, they are stock. I also found a truck like mine in Arkansas, so they are around.
 
#12 ·
I realized after I posted I was mistaken I believe it was like a chassy cab dually option. I have not been able to work on the truck because I lived 4 hours away but I'm moving back. I Hope we can throw some ideas around on it when I'm working on it Ill include tons of photos. The plans for the truck is to have a vehicle capable of moving anything I ask it to and drive daily. The truck, I guess, is technically "built" I just have to Rebuild it
 
#13 · (Edited)
Yup, once I get a working computer I'll dump all my photos onto my thread, as well as some good descriptions of whats going on. The only problem I haven't figured out yet is with the length of the engine (Yours looks like it fits in pretty well, but then again you're sitting on a 2 ton chassis); I'll have to push the radiator to the outside of it's mount because of the fan pulley.

I'm just glad I'm okay vertically, especially since I have the jakes. The 6" lift gives me an inch to spare when the front springs bottom out.

How do you reckon you'll sit that on 2.5 rockwells? I've considered them but they are quite wide, I've read about the modifications on shortening them, but it's quite extensive and that's something I wouldn't try to weld.
 
#15 ·
...The only problem I haven't figured out yet is with the length of the engine ...I'll have to push the radiator to the outside of it's mount because of the fan pulley.
You can save several inches by not using a mechanical fan (remove fan hub and brackets), either an electric one on the back side, or save a few more inches and put the fan on the front. Although if you have a choice an electric fan works best on the back side with a fan shroud.
I don't have a mechanical fan, and know numerous folks with 4-53T conversions running electric fans successfully.

Grigg
 
#16 ·
Have fun! Whoever told you that 70's Dodges couldn't be ordered with a dually rear must drive Chevies or Hyundai's or something...
 
#19 ·
The Front clip is welded from underneath so it maintains the stock look but the hinges are uber complicated I plan on putting helper actuators for opening. There should be enough clearance for a rockwell there's a ton of space from the i-beam axle now. I probably have enough space for a 6v73. Where did you get your jakes I really want some.
 
#25 ·
i always liked these wooden pickup beds... it's not so easier to find newer compact pickups using them but i've found some s10 and rangers using it in my hometown and i must confess i really like these wooden beds more than standard beds...
 
#26 ·
Sweet old rig.

Air starters are a pain, if the air system leaks down,even just a little.I would consider a back up electric compressor like the bagged low rider guys use.I would reconsider the air brakes.It doesn't take much to jam the air actuators open and stopping the brakes from grabbing.They are very exposed and easily damaged when going off road.
 
#27 · (Edited by Moderator)
Air starters are a pain, if the air system leaks down,even just a little.I would consider a back up electric compressor like the bagged low rider guys use.I would reconsider the air brakes.It doesn't take much to jam the air actuators open and stopping the brakes from grabbing.They are very exposed and easily damaged when going off road.
i'm not an enthusiast of pneumatic systems for automobile use...
 
#30 ·
as i believe you're not intending to do those low-rider tricks, the air suspension can work well for you... an auxiliary air horn can be cool too, but i would prefer to have a regular electric horn too... and even with a good air compressor for the suspension and the horn (and some well-capable air tanks) i would prefer not to rely only in air brakes...
 
#35 ·
Plumbing from scratch will be a huge job, and very difficult to follow all the proper routing for the airlines. You can find all the parts you need at a dealership, wrecking yard, or big rig parts store. To plumb it proper, like a big rig, you'll need room for 3 air tanks. 1st air tank will be for collecting moisture from the atmosphere. I don't know what part of the country you live in, but moisture in the brakes can be a very bad thing if the temps drop below freezing. You can add an air dryer, which has elements and desicant, to dry the air, but it is only 99.9% effective. You'll still have to drain the tanks occasionally. The other 2 tanks are the primary and secondary. They will be where the air comes from that goes to your brakes on the front and rear axles. One tank goes to the rear axle and the other does duty for the front. There are a lot of redundancies built onto the modern air brake system. If you run "maxies", you're going to need to build up to at least 90 psi before you can release the park brakes. If you can't build up enough air pressure, then the brakes don't release, and you don't go any where.
As for a diagram of the whole shebang, try looking at your state/provinces dmv drivers handbook for the airbrake test. I don't know about all the jurisdictions, but here in manitoba the air brake endorsement is separate from your cdl to drive a big truck.
You might be picking up your air brake endorsement anyhow because your truck might require the driver to get his licence upgraded.
Another source to see how complicated, or not, the air brake plumbing job might be, would go to a truck driving school that has a "brake board". All this is is a sheet or two of plywood that has all the components of an air brake system laid out, in kind of order, so that the students can see how everything relates.
Hope this helps.
 
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