4bt p-pump power upgrades on a budget?
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    Default 4bt p-pump power upgrades on a budget?

    i am getting close to the point of stuffing my engine into the 01 tj(jeep). i t is a p-pumped(130hp) 4bt. i would really like to send this motor over the 200 rwhp mark w/out breaking the bank. what parts are recommended? i do have a exhaust manifold and turbo from a p-pumped 6bt. is this worth adapting and what injectors would it take? thanks for the help

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    that should be do-able with that engine, mine is ve pumped and its doin 195 hp

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    Get yourself a bigger turbo (HX35 or HE341 or HE351, should be easy to find one well under $300), sounds like this is covered though. Then grind your fuel plate to maybe a #100 profile and put in some 4K governor springs. If you still want more, then get injectors and delivery valves. Trust me it will MOVE when you want it to then... Don't forget boost and pyrometer gauges.

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    Here's a what I came up with. It should be a good start. Plus you should bump your pump timing up to around 16* to start out.
    http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...ith-P7100-info
    Taking my toys and heading to another sandbox.

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    Here is what you need to do .

    - Spend some time tuning the injection pump , you can have over 10 hrs fine tuning the injection pump.
    - a fuel plate like a #5 wich is a mid way on fuel , that way if you want more you can buy used ones and rework them to your needs * neede to read on how to grind and polish the plate *
    - Adjust your fuel * read up on this , the same adjustments as the 6bt P7100 injection pump .
    - Adjust your timing , for the power your wanting 14.5 * to 16.%* , if you don't want to buy the tools than pay to have it done. This isn't the place to just guess and hope that's it's right.

    That right there will be around 200hp more than 200hp than injectors your selection is wide open and more will be way more than what you need.

    Scott

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    You'll also want to add 3K gov spring kit , if you go with a 4K than 60lb valve springs will need to be installed.

    It's time to start reading and spend the Money you have the right way the first time .

    Scott

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    thanks a lot for the info-it is time to do some wrenching- CREWCAB 59-you did not mention a turbo upgrade; with your list of mods, do you deem it necessary?

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    the turbo i have is an hx35 taken off an agricultural skid motor-it does not have a wastegate- is this worth using?

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    The reason I didn't list a turbo is because for 200 hp you don't need to change it. Let's see some pics of a non gated Hx35 ! No need for a waste gate at those power level .

    Scott

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    Does anybody know where to actually buy a fuel plate for a 4BTA???
    I've searched high and low and can't find one....unless you can use the same ones that
    are for the 6BT.

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    fuel plate is the same as 6bt
    79 Ford F250 Supercab w/ 6BT VE, ZF 5.42, NP205. 3.54 gears HE351cw/hx55 compounded turbos, Hamilton 181/210 cam, 24v tappets, 60lb. valve springs, 4" straight piped mandrel bend exhaust. Hotrodded VE pump, +60hp injectors, custom 3" dual ram intake, ARP studs, Danin gauges.

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    look on ebay, thats where i got my 100 plate
    2001 Dodge 24V Cummins 4x4, auto, BHAF, Straight Piped, leveling kit, 305 BFGs, HX35 Holset
    1972 Bronco on 1 tons, 42in stickies, 4BTA inline pump w/ 47RH and 4:1 RockBox

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    Default How

    How dobyou plan to stuff radiator, intercooler, and ac condenser in there?

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    Quote Originally Posted by lucasbrackins View Post
    How dobyou plan to stuff radiator, intercooler, and ac condenser in there?
    Just like everyone else does ,picking the right parts.

    Scott

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    Still befounds me how people still buy fuel plates. Different sized plates are a marketing gimmik used to make you buy more then one when you upgrade. You can cut whatever plate you want out of a stocker, but its all a bunch of mumbo jumbo. I generally run no plate, but if I do need to back off on fuel I will run a 0 plate pulled back. The afc will control way more of your fuel curve then most want to believe.

    Go with a 4 gsk kit off the bat, just because you have the capability doesnt mean you have to run that many rpms. The 4k kit will fuel harder anyways. Jusk keep your rpms under 3500 when running stock springs. I have been running a 4k kit and no plate on our farm truck for years now with stock valve springs, as I did with my daily driver before that.

    If you plan on getting injectors sometime, I would try to stay at a 5x.014" or under. Anything bigger I have found that they will smoke heavily under any throttle what so ever on the VE pumps, which is a major pain on a daily driver.

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    Quote Originally Posted by yellowpaint/blacksmoke View Post
    i am getting close to the point of stuffing my engine into the 01 tj(jeep). i t is a p-pumped(130hp) 4bt. i would really like to send this motor over the 200 rwhp mark w/out breaking the bank. what parts are recommended? i do have a exhaust manifold and turbo from a p-pumped 6bt. is this worth adapting and what injectors would it take? thanks for the help
    I'd seriously like to see you adapt a 6cylinder manifold to a 4cylinder motor

    Quote Originally Posted by tractor_boy View Post
    Get yourself a bigger turbo (HX35 or HE341 or HE351, should be easy to find one well under $300), sounds like this is covered though. Then grind your fuel plate to maybe a #100 profile and put in some 4K governor springs. If you still want more, then get injectors and delivery valves. Trust me it will MOVE when you want it to then... Don't forget boost and pyrometer gauges.
    he351 can be had for just as cheap as a hx35, don't go for less than the he351cw. if your feeling ambitious, go for the 351ve and retrofit it

    contagious diesel on facebook can modify DV's and injectors for more power and do it for less than most can

    Quote Originally Posted by shortbusdriver View Post
    Still befounds me how people still buy fuel plates. Different sized plates are a marketing gimmik used to make you buy more then one when you upgrade. You can cut whatever plate you want out of a stocker, but its all a bunch of mumbo jumbo. I generally run no plate, but if I do need to back off on fuel I will run a 0 plate pulled back. The afc will control way more of your fuel curve then most want to believe.

    Go with a 4 gsk kit off the bat, just because you have the capability doesnt mean you have to run that many rpms. The 4k kit will fuel harder anyways. Jusk keep your rpms under 3500 when running stock springs. I have been running a 4k kit and no plate on our farm truck for years now with stock valve springs, as I did with my daily driver before that.

    If you plan on getting injectors sometime, I would try to stay at a 5x.014" or under. Anything bigger I have found that they will smoke heavily under any throttle what so ever on the VE pumps, which is a major pain on a daily driver.
    AMEN!

    FUEL PLATES ARE A JOKE! either cut it to a zero to control max fueling, or pull it out. a properly tuned afc WILL progressively add fuel as boost increases so there is NO NEED for a 100 or 5 plate. I am running a 0 PLATE with a benched P pump 024 delivery valves and 5x.016 injectors and my truck runs CLEAN ( a little black smoke for a half second and then grey haze all the way to 50psig) with a large billet 66/74/14 turbo

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    Quote Originally Posted by 11.25 Inches View Post
    I'd seriously like to see you adapt a 6cylinder manifold to a 4cylinder motor
    everyone does its not that hard, chop off one cylinder port on either side weld in a plate done. lots of people use them, we usually call them a chopped manifold, actually i'm running one
    2003 quad cab dodge Dakota, now rear wheel drive, serious traction issues
    twin turbo 4bt, newly installed 4l80e, VE fuel mods curtesy of cumminsfever
    VE performance Beta tester
    photo's http://picasaweb.google.com/dieseldakota
    build thread http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...ht=2003+dakota

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    Quote Originally Posted by dieseldakota View Post
    everyone does its not that hard, chop off one cylinder port on either side weld in a plate done. lots of people use them, we usually call them a chopped manifold, actually i'm running one
    well, on my 3 piece manifold, I'd just have to screw off two of them and screw on a plug... but welding cast iron is difficult and can easily break... something to do with higher carbon content I believe. a decent exhaust shop should be able to make you a header for cheap

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    I've got a chopped manifold too. So far so good.
    1994 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4. 4BTA 375hp and 720ft/lbs torque, 12.9 at 103mph 1/4.
    There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots

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    Quote Originally Posted by 11.25 Inches View Post
    well, on my 3 piece manifold, I'd just have to screw off two of them and screw on a plug... but welding cast iron is difficult and can easily break... something to do with higher carbon content I believe. a decent exhaust shop should be able to make you a header for cheap
    welding cast requires preheat (400* plus) and slow cooling after welding is complete...easy with the right rod on a manifold due to low thickness of material.heads and blocks are the hard bits,but can be succesfully welded with the right prep and skill.

    "hand made" "header"and "cheap"are words that don't go together....
    currently modding an 86' m-1010 cucv ambulance,with factory 14-bolt/detroit in back and an open 60 in front.lifted 6 inches,running 37's on 17 x 8's.now swappimg in a mild 6bt,and an nvg-4500/np205 combo.hope to have it running by fall.
    link to engine build... http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...n-engine-build...

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    it wouldn't COST MUCH because a 4bt's exhaust manifold doesn't require much bending or material. not like performance headers on a v8. not cheaply made, just easily and quickly made if you know the right people

    Quote Originally Posted by ambulancechser View Post
    welding cast requires preheat (400* plus) and slow cooling after welding is complete...easy with the right rod on a manifold due to low thickness of material.heads and blocks are the hard bits,but can be succesfully welded with the right prep and skill.

    "hand made" "header"and "cheap"are words that don't go together....

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    Default Header?

    I agree that a custom header isn't cheap and disagree about the bends here is on I built for a 24V
    sorry I'll have to get back with you can't get the image to work
    and by the way the manifold or header has to support thr weight of the turbo and the extra heat.
    so it can't be just exhaust tubbing
    Last edited by vandever metalworx; 09-07-2011 at 03:45 PM.
    Y2K 4X4 6spd home built twins and extras
    comeing soon 99 Dakota 4X4 et cab 4BT swap

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