Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

4bt p-pump power upgrades on a budget?

41K views 21 replies 15 participants last post by  vandever metalworx 
#1 ·
i am getting close to the point of stuffing my engine into the 01 tj(jeep). i t is a p-pumped(130hp) 4bt. i would really like to send this motor over the 200 rwhp mark w/out breaking the bank. what parts are recommended? i do have a exhaust manifold and turbo from a p-pumped 6bt. is this worth adapting and what injectors would it take? thanks for the help
 
#3 ·
Get yourself a bigger turbo (HX35 or HE341 or HE351, should be easy to find one well under $300), sounds like this is covered though. Then grind your fuel plate to maybe a #100 profile and put in some 4K governor springs. If you still want more, then get injectors and delivery valves. Trust me it will MOVE when you want it to then... :grinpimp: Don't forget boost and pyrometer gauges.
 
#5 ·
Here is what you need to do .

- Spend some time tuning the injection pump , you can have over 10 hrs fine tuning the injection pump.
- a fuel plate like a #5 wich is a mid way on fuel , that way if you want more you can buy used ones and rework them to your needs * neede to read on how to grind and polish the plate *
- Adjust your fuel * read up on this , the same adjustments as the 6bt P7100 injection pump .
- Adjust your timing , for the power your wanting 14.5 * to 16.%* , if you don't want to buy the tools than pay to have it done. This isn't the place to just guess and hope that's it's right.

That right there will be around 200hp more than 200hp than injectors your selection is wide open and more will be way more than what you need.

Scott
 
#11 ·
fuel plate is the same as 6bt
 
#15 ·
Still befounds me how people still buy fuel plates. Different sized plates are a marketing gimmik used to make you buy more then one when you upgrade. You can cut whatever plate you want out of a stocker, but its all a bunch of mumbo jumbo. I generally run no plate, but if I do need to back off on fuel I will run a 0 plate pulled back. The afc will control way more of your fuel curve then most want to believe.

Go with a 4 gsk kit off the bat, just because you have the capability doesnt mean you have to run that many rpms. The 4k kit will fuel harder anyways. Jusk keep your rpms under 3500 when running stock springs. I have been running a 4k kit and no plate on our farm truck for years now with stock valve springs, as I did with my daily driver before that.

If you plan on getting injectors sometime, I would try to stay at a 5x.014" or under. Anything bigger I have found that they will smoke heavily under any throttle what so ever on the VE pumps, which is a major pain on a daily driver.
 
#16 ·
I'd seriously like to see you adapt a 6cylinder manifold to a 4cylinder motor

Get yourself a bigger turbo (HX35 or HE341 or HE351, should be easy to find one well under $300), sounds like this is covered though. Then grind your fuel plate to maybe a #100 profile and put in some 4K governor springs. If you still want more, then get injectors and delivery valves. Trust me it will MOVE when you want it to then... :grinpimp: Don't forget boost and pyrometer gauges.
he351 can be had for just as cheap as a hx35, don't go for less than the he351cw. if your feeling ambitious, go for the 351ve and retrofit it

contagious diesel on facebook can modify DV's and injectors for more power and do it for less than most can

Still befounds me how people still buy fuel plates. Different sized plates are a marketing gimmik used to make you buy more then one when you upgrade. You can cut whatever plate you want out of a stocker, but its all a bunch of mumbo jumbo. I generally run no plate, but if I do need to back off on fuel I will run a 0 plate pulled back. The afc will control way more of your fuel curve then most want to believe.

Go with a 4 gsk kit off the bat, just because you have the capability doesnt mean you have to run that many rpms. The 4k kit will fuel harder anyways. Jusk keep your rpms under 3500 when running stock springs. I have been running a 4k kit and no plate on our farm truck for years now with stock valve springs, as I did with my daily driver before that.

If you plan on getting injectors sometime, I would try to stay at a 5x.014" or under. Anything bigger I have found that they will smoke heavily under any throttle what so ever on the VE pumps, which is a major pain on a daily driver.
AMEN!

FUEL PLATES ARE A JOKE! either cut it to a zero to control max fueling, or pull it out. a properly tuned afc WILL progressively add fuel as boost increases so there is NO NEED for a 100 or 5 plate. I am running a 0 PLATE with a benched P pump 024 delivery valves and 5x.016 injectors and my truck runs CLEAN ( a little black smoke for a half second and then grey haze all the way to 50psig) with a large billet 66/74/14 turbo
 
#17 ·
I'd seriously like to see you adapt a 6cylinder manifold to a 4cylinder motor
everyone does its not that hard, chop off one cylinder port on either side weld in a plate done. lots of people use them, we usually call them a chopped manifold, actually i'm running one :D
 
#22 · (Edited)
Header?

I agree that a custom header isn't cheap and disagree about the bends here is on I built for a 24V:(
sorry I'll have to get back with you can't get the image to work
and by the way the manifold or header has to support thr weight of the turbo and the extra heat.
so it can't be just exhaust tubbing
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top