1996 Suburban Cummins 12V Conversion Build up with pics - Page 3
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Thread: 1996 Suburban Cummins 12V Conversion Build up with pics

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crummins View Post
    I figure it's no more in the open than the front grille. It's actually tucked up in there pretty good but time will tell, this isn't an off-road rig...
    Your front grill doesn't run over anything...... hopefully. My truck isn't an off road rig either, but it does leave the pavement occasionally, to pull a boat out of the water, drop yard waste off, park in a field for an auction, etc. All it would take is a stick in just the right spot.

    It's true time will tell, but if time tells you that you are wrong, you may be out a transmission.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 454cid View Post
    Your front grill doesn't run over anything...... hopefully. My truck isn't an off road rig either, but it does leave the pavement occasionally, to pull a boat out of the water, drop yard waste off, park in a field for an auction, etc. All it would take is a stick in just the right spot.

    It's true time will tell, but if time tells you that you are wrong, you may be out a transmission.
    I tend to not run over sticks and stuff but it is well above the frame so it should be ok.. plus, it's just a transmission, it isn't like the Cummins would go bad, which is the most important

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crummins View Post
    I tend to not run over sticks and stuff .......
    What???? Being able to run over stuff is one of the best things about trucks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 454cid View Post
    What???? Being able to run over stuff is one of the best things about trucks!
    This is my stick running over truck:



    It doesn't have a Cummins but maybe someday....

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    Default Hood Latch

    Since the condenser moved out the width of the intercooler, the safety catch for the hood would have dug itself directly into the condenser. We modified the catch so the hood was no longer facing front to back, it was now side to side.

    Hood pic - you can see the stock insert that is not used. We used the other insert and the other, just drilled a hole and used a bolt:



    Here is another shot of the latch:



    Here is a shot of the striker we welded onto the factory piece, I just had to cut 1/4" slit out of the grille:



    Here is just the striker:

    Last edited by Crummins; 02-01-2011 at 01:39 PM.

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    Default Air Cleaner Mount

    We used aluminum tubing for the air cleaner and our fabricator had a scrap piece of 1/4" plate. So we bent a 90 degree in it (he welded a bead on the inside of the bend to make it stronger), then we put a radius in it to match the tubing and tub welded it on there. Just drilled 2 holes for the factory mount in the inner fender and voila! The entire intake is 3.5"



    We put that end of the filter in the cold air hole that the factory engine used. It is an Amsoil filter with the 'powercone' so it is getting air through that hole:

    Last edited by Crummins; 02-01-2011 at 01:43 PM.

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    Ok, just a follow-up on this.

    I have put ~1500 miles on it now and I am averaging 18 mpg. Most of my driving is in town, some freeway.

    I believe the 4.10 gears (and stock-ish 32" tires) aren't helping down the freeway, I think I could eek a couple more MPG out of it with some 3.54 or 3.73 gears.

    Also, on these 2 fill-ups we played quite a bit with the transmission controller and the lockup torque converter. I think we have them all perfect now -- on the 1st tank of diesel, the lockup wasn't coming on much at all, on the 2nd tank of diesel, it was coming on too much. Now we have it set just right.. or at least damn close.

    Aside from that, we modified the pump a little and put a fuel pin and 3200 RPM spring in it. The spring was the most noticeable increase in power since it doesn't start to de-fuel at about 2100 rpm.

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    Nice build, and your right about the mold. I'm in Graham, wa. I picked up my frito van in Gigharbor. Hi neighbor

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dodgeruffrider View Post
    Nice build, and your right about the mold. I'm in Graham, wa. I picked up my frito van in Gigharbor. Hi neighbor
    How did a Frito Van get by me, especially where I live!! lol. After we did this swap, I want to 4bt something now. I think Cummins should be spelled 'crack' cause I want more!!!

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    Hey Crummins, NICE JOB!

    I have a 94 6.5L K2500 Sub and am thinking about doing the same thing you did!

    Bought it new in Tacoma and now have 190,000 on it. I think a 12V is the BEST engine for a Suburban. I'd like to know how your mileage is doing so far....I have a 3.73 axle ratio and 265-75R-16 tires. and have considered a 3.42:1 ratio which was available in 94.

    The slower you turn a Cummins(or any diesel), the better the mileage.

    I currently get 18 on the highway, cruise control, empty......16 driving back and forth to SEATAC and around town........... (The best I ever got was 19 between Puyallup and Sacramento.... 635 miles and about 34 gallons but I had to keep it below 70!......EVERYBODY WAS PASSING ME!!!)

    Last year I towed a 5000lb 21ft boat to Sacramento area and back and got 14 going and 13 coming back. (60-65 each way....except going through the Siskiyous )

    Any additional info to report on your excellent conversion?


    Thanks,

    Rick
    Buckley, wa

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    i'm gathering parts to do my 99 gmc.i to am getting rid of my 454. were you able to use your 454 ecm to run your speedo and anti-lock cruise ect. i'm go'in with a 24 valve. hopefully with a p-pump conversion and a 6- speed also converting to 4x4. can't buy the truck i want so figured i'd buld it

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    Quote Originally Posted by HT32BSX115 View Post
    Hey Crummins, NICE JOB!

    I have a 94 6.5L K2500 Sub and am thinking about doing the same thing you did!

    Bought it new in Tacoma and now have 190,000 on it. I think a 12V is the BEST engine for a Suburban. I'd like to know how your mileage is doing so far....I have a 3.73 axle ratio and 265-75R-16 tires. and have considered a 3.42:1 ratio which was available in 94.

    The slower you turn a Cummins(or any diesel), the better the mileage.

    I currently get 18 on the highway, cruise control, empty......16 driving back and forth to SEATAC and around town........... (The best I ever got was 19 between Puyallup and Sacramento.... 635 miles and about 34 gallons but I had to keep it below 70!......EVERYBODY WAS PASSING ME!!!)

    Last year I towed a 5000lb 21ft boat to Sacramento area and back and got 14 going and 13 coming back. (60-65 each way....except going through the Siskiyous )

    Any additional info to report on your excellent conversion?
    It gets 18 MPG w/ no load on winter diesel. It gets driven about 50/50 hwy and town. I have the 4.11 gears so I did some calculations and 3.73 would be a good ratio and 3.42 might be better.

    I am extremely happy with how the conversion turned out and everyone should do it!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MISPLACEDBIKER View Post
    i'm gathering parts to do my 99 gmc.i to am getting rid of my 454. were you able to use your 454 ecm to run your speedo and anti-lock cruise ect. i'm go'in with a 24 valve. hopefully with a p-pump conversion and a 6- speed also converting to 4x4. can't buy the truck i want so figured i'd buld it
    That is exactly what I did. People keep asking me why didn't you buy a Dodge truck? Well, I don't really like Dodge trucks and I don't want a truck, I want a Suburban-type vehicle and I HATE how the Excursions drive (not to mention the diesels are still pricey around here) so this was my best option.

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    I have 1994 2500 suburban, is this going o work on my truck. I have the old detroit diesel engine that gone bad. How much does this cost? Any other cummins engine will work?

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    Quote Originally Posted by raydiesel View Post
    I have 1994 2500 suburban, is this going o work on my truck. I have the old detroit diesel engine that gone bad. How much does this cost? Any other cummins engine will work?
    Yes, this will work on your truck. It will just take time and money, you should plan for 4-7k if you do the work yourself. You can go with a 6bt or a 4bt Cummins.

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    Hows the trans holding up? Any issues and would use the 4L80 again?

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    Quote Originally Posted by M.Kasperan View Post
    Hows the trans holding up? Any issues and would use the 4L80 again?
    Holding up great no issues at all. I figured it would be the weak link since it is original with 100k miles on it but it just keeps on working and well.

    Yes, I would use it again.

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    Still the stock converter? Do you tow anything with this truck? Super cool set up!

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    Quote Originally Posted by M.Kasperan View Post
    Still the stock converter? Do you tow anything with this truck? Super cool set up!
    Yes, stock converter. The 454 and the 6.5 diesel used the same converter so we saw no need to replace it. It seems to stall until 1600-1700 which is right when the turbo spools up so it is about perfect.

    Yes, we tow a 10k travel trailer and it does great. The only gripe is the 4.10 gears. When I am above 50-55mph, I don't have a passing gear. At 65 mph it is about 2200 rpm. I would like to see that down a bit so some 3.73 gears may be in the future.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crummins View Post
    Yes, stock converter. The 454 and the 6.5 diesel used the same converter so we saw no need to replace it. It seems to stall until 1600-1700 which is right when the turbo spools up so it is about perfect.

    Yes, we tow a 10k travel trailer and it does great. The only gripe is the 4.10 gears. When I am above 50-55mph, I don't have a passing gear. At 65 mph it is about 2200 rpm. I would like to see that down a bit so some 3.73 gears may be in the future.
    Do you need the passing gear or will the motor pull thur it? I so want to do this to my truck. I found a 92 6bt VE pump motor with everything plus the intercooler and tubing for $1500. You think that a good deal? I don't know the mileage on the motor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by M.Kasperan View Post
    Do you need the passing gear or will the motor pull thur it? I so want to do this to my truck. I found a 92 6bt VE pump motor with everything plus the intercooler and tubing for $1500. You think that a good deal? I don't know the mileage on the motor.
    As long as it hit a hill with speed the motor will pull just fine but if I cannot hit it at speed and I hit it slower than 45-50 -- pulling a trailer -- it is a dog, it will still accelerate up it but it would be nice to have one more gear at that speed. A Cummins doesn't need 4.10 gears to get going either.

    $1500 seems decent. I paid $1700 for mine but I also knew the history and it had 125k on it.

    Are you putting this in the same era truck / Suburban like mine?

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    1998 GMC K3500 crewcab single rear wheel truck. I tow a work trailer everyday and the 5.7 isn't very happy about it.

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    Crummins, could you get a measurement for me? I'm swapping a 12 valve into my 97 burb and need to know if your engine is centered up in the frame, or is it set tot the pass. side? If it's not centered can you measure off each framerail and tell me the measurements? Also, where is the front edge of the oil pan relative to the frt. crossmember?
    Thanks for your help, and I wanted to say that seeing your swap was the one of the main influences that made me want to do mine.

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    Who's alt and AC brackets are you using?

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    Cummins my hats off to you bro that looks great!! Ive been planning my swap for about 8 months now and this is going to make it that much easier for me! I also plan to post my progress to contribute to the thread and get some more folks out there to do the swap!

    What did you do as far as wiring codes and how did they tie in on the chevy?
    Im running a Stock 1996 2500 silverado with the 6.5TD and 4L80E 4x4. Thats all coming out and being replaced with a 98 12 valve 6bt with a nv4500 trans. So wiring for the automatic is getting taken out along with the chevy motor wiring as well. I have the 6bt computer and theres one big white plug where it tied into the vehical harness on the dodge. Im cutting that off and just dont know where I need to start tieing it in on the chevy

    P.S. I looked at the intercooler pics and no S**T went and bought a stock dodge 94 intercooler off a guy here locally about 10 mins later. Thanks for that!!
    Last edited by kcmotorsports1; 06-23-2011 at 01:44 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by M.Kasperan View Post
    1998 GMC K3500 crewcab single rear wheel truck. I tow a work trailer everyday and the 5.7 isn't very happy about it.
    You probably will end up selling the intercooler and piping from the early engine. It can be made to fit -- with a radiator from a 92-93 truck as well but they are much smaller and I have heard of cooling issues since the radiator is smaller.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CumminsBronco View Post
    Crummins, could you get a measurement for me? I'm swapping a 12 valve into my 97 burb and need to know if your engine is centered up in the frame, or is it set tot the pass. side? If it's not centered can you measure off each framerail and tell me the measurements? Also, where is the front edge of the oil pan relative to the frt. crossmember?
    Thanks for your help, and I wanted to say that seeing your swap was the one of the main influences that made me want to do mine.
    I'll see what I can do on measurements, it probably will be a couple of weeks. I haven't had to work on it since it was done and I am quite enjoying not having to crawl under the hood of it!

    I can tell you that it is not centered, it is kicked off to the passenger side by a bit.

    I will visually look at where the oil pan sits.

    I just bought the motor mounts from Auto World MT, they bolted right onto the stock frame mounts with some drilling and removing of material and I had to countersink the bolts for the differential (the oil pan is that close) and it worked perfectly.

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    Quote Originally Posted by M.Kasperan View Post
    Who's alt and AC brackets are you using?
    Auto World MT

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    Quote Originally Posted by kcmotorsports1 View Post
    Cummins my hats off to you bro that looks great!! Ive been planning my swap for about 8 months now and this is going to make it that much easier for me! I also plan to post my progress to contribute to the thread and get some more folks out there to do the swap!

    What did you do as far as wiring codes and how did they tie in on the chevy?
    Im running a Stock 1996 2500 silverado with the 6.5TD and 4L80E 4x4. Thats all coming out and being replaced with a 98 12 valve 6bt with a nv4500 trans. So wiring for the automatic is getting taken out along with the chevy motor wiring as well. I have the 6bt computer and theres one big white plug where it tied into the vehical harness on the dodge. Im cutting that off and just dont know where I need to start tieing it in on the chevy

    P.S. I looked at the intercooler pics and no S**T went and bought a stock dodge 94 intercooler off a guy here locally about 10 mins later. Thanks for that!!
    In 1998 I am not sure what the computer would do for the engine (maybe it is the transmission computer?), I thought that they weren't computer controlled until they went 24 valve in 98.5. I thought there was a solenoid that would allow the engine to run and kill the engine and that was it as far as getting the engine to run.

    On my 1993, it is 1-wire. You supply key on power to that wire and it will start, you pull power from that wire and it shuts off.

    For the stock wiring, I painstakingly removed all of the factory wiring for sensors and controllers that went out with the 454. I pulled each wire out from the harness all the way to the computer. I pulled 36 pins out of the factory GM computer and about 200 feet of wire.

    I also removed most all of the transmission wiring since I had to run a standalone computer. I kept the speed sensor wire so my speedo would work.

    You will also need the 94 Dodge Radiator since it is clearanced for the intercooler.

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    Man I just sold the radiator off the parts truck I had. Oh well I guess ill have to find another :/ Anyways yeah Im not sure what the computer is for but it looks like it ties into everything on the engine. I havnt gotten to deep into the wireing just yet though. The motor Im useing is the 98 12 valve before they went to 24 valve. Its got the P7100 fuel pump on it. And the transmission it had was a auto with a kick down cable and nothing from the engine harness really tied to it. Ill do alittle digging and see if somehow it tied in through the body harness to the tranny and that being what it was used for. 1 wire to run sounds like my kind of motor so Im hopeing is going to be easier than I thought.

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