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Pilot Bearing install to IDS Adapter question

3K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  doug720 
#1 ·
I found the clutch rattle I've had in my 4BD2 to FJ60 swap, it turned out to be a bad pilot bearing. But I have a question; On the IDS adapter, how far the pilot bearing go into the recessed area? All the way flush? Part way in (how I installed last time?) So far I've not found a for sure answer. I found the link below on the advance adapters web site, and it shows all the way in on a flywheel.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/downloads/712523.pdf

What do you guys think?

Also, why do some use a bushing and others a bearing? Pros and Cons??

Thanks

Doug
 
#2 ·
In my experience (not with IDS directly, just cars in general), the pilot bearing goes all the way back - that's how you make sure it's not tilted or misaligned. Seating it against the flywheel aligns it. I can't say much about bushing vs. pilot bearing, but some have claimed bushings wear out rather than "fail" like a pilot bearing... less likely to have a catastrophic failure like you had with your bearing I guess? Keep in mind the pilot bearing or bushing is in use ONLY when you've got the clutch pushed in.
 
#3 ·
I used a bronze bushing. Don't care for the bearings anymore because of the failure potential. Bearing quality now days can be more hit and miss than it used to be.

IIRC, I installed the bushing part of the way in like you did. Just a little further in than flush.
The bushings are supposed to be oil impregnated and it's recommended that they not be oiled or greased. In the past I put grease on the bushing because I didn't know any better and never had a problem. This time i did what the manual said.

Sorry to hear about you having to pull yours apart. That is a heavy and bulky transmission/transfer case combo.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the reply's and advice. I think a bushing is the way to go this time also, it might get a little sloppy over time, but not fail like the bearing. For me it's easier to pull the engine vs. the trans/transfer combo and I was not sure what the clutch problem was and how much would be involved to fix it. I also wanted to take care of a couple other issues with the engine out. I have a oil leak on one of the oil fittings I brazed...DOH! Plus I want to check the IP pump as I get a little surging occasionally when the engine is restarted when warm or after a long drive. I'm going to pull the IP and have it tested and adjusted (I hope). Had the injectors done last week which made her run a great, except for the minor surge.

FL, did you ever find your miss? You just changed pumps right?

Doug
 
#6 ·
FL, did you ever find your miss? You just changed pumps right?
Injector pump change out cured the problem. Been running perfect ever since.

Hopefully you find a cooperative diesel shop. Two places I checked wouldn't touch the pump unless they rebuilt it.
One other shop would calibrate it for a two hour charge at $80 an hour.

One knowledgeable person locally that's worked on Isuzu's for years told me to just open the side of the IP and clean the plungers out. I haven't done this yet so I can't comment.
It seems worth a try to save potentially spending lots of money.

I run a pressure gauge between the lift pump and IP. I've noticed that when the pressure gets low and a filter needs replacement the engine will surge.
The filters seem to clog fairly quickly just after doing a diesel conversion.
 
#7 ·
I'm going to PU a pilot bushing today and see how it fits in the IDS adapter, in addition the end of the input shaft has a little gouge in it. I'm going to debur the gouge and polish it up a little and see how it all fits.

On the IP, I pulled the plungers out and cleaned everything real well. In 2 of the plunger bodies, the small hole to the fuel lines had partial blockages. Blew them out and put it all back together. I just changed all the filters last week as regular maintenance. We'll see... Thanks FL

Doug
 
#8 · (Edited)
Bearing Update:

I called Advanced Adapters today to talk about pilot bearings and bushings and was told something interesting, they recommend using bushings, not bearings! In fact, in their kits they include bushings, no pilot bearings! Too many stories like mine of bad bearings and torn up input shafts. A bearing when it fails can/will hurt the input shaft, a bushing just wears out.

A new oil impregnated bronze bushing is on the way!

Just a little info.

Doug
 
#9 ·
Hey I hate to hijack the thread but I would appreciate any help you can give me. I am at the stage of mounting the flywheel to the crank and am not sure on a couple things.

First, the donor engine was mated to an auto tranny. After pulling the flex plate i tried to mount the flywheel but the diameter of the spacer that hangs out of the middle of the crank is much wider than the diameter of the manual flywheel im trying to install. My question is does that spacer come out of the crank and what is the best way to get it out?

Also, when i go to install the IDS kit and manual flywheel what do I need for bearing/bushing ect.... I've searched the forum but cannot find any info on the subject....


Once again your help is much appreciated.
 
#11 ·
I think I remember reading somewhere about other people having pilot bearing issues as well. I am in the process of installing a digital Dakota tach that reads teeth of flywheel. I currently have a pilot bearing installed ... should I replace it with a bushing??
 
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