Custom AC compressor Bracket
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    Default Custom AC compressor Bracket

    I made an AC compressor bracket and i figured i would post it in its own thread. The AC has proved as hard as anything in the rest of my swap.

    The mount is for a Sanden 7320 8 groove Compressor. Turns out Sanden's measurement of the mounting holes was incorrect, so be careful and measure everything yourself.

    I had all the metal cut and holes drilled and tapped on the base plate at a shop in San Marcos, TX. Then made the alternator piggyback mount at home.

    Then I ordered some hard ac compressor lines from nostalgic air parts and got some o-ring to flare adapters to use the factory Wagoneer #8 and #10 hoses. I replaced the evaporator, drier and expansion valve.

    Getting it charged tomorrow. we will see what i screwed up then.





    " I drank what?" - Socrates


    1986 Jeep Grand Wagonner
    4bt/47rh/Np241
    Daily Driver unless im driving my VW THING

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    Supporting Member redhedbronco's Avatar
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    Nice..next summer will be cooler.
    69 Bronco 4bt/IC/HE221, NP435/203/205, 3.54 D60s OX locker F and Detroit R, military H1 beadlocks and 38" rubber
    "sealing the deal on this forum section as a whole..(and/or his entire membership here){which has been an issue before}ps: you were warned.... Redhedbronco reported for vulgarity character attack."-47Ford-1.5Ton Rats dwell here.
    Please, Drifter, don't give me any more advice because I can't afford it and I don't want to destroy my engine or truck.-JimmieD

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    looks a lot like mine but my compressor sits upright--if the belt runs too close to upper hose just drill and tap the cummins bracket was just what mine needed. makin cold yet?

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    Absolutely love this AC setup the brackets look semi simple to build. How did you get your alternator down there. Mine sits way up top basically where your compressor is now. Do I need to have a totally different side setup or is there something im missing?

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    i dont know what setup you have, but I lied to you in my PM, the bottom bracket (really just a piece of flatstock about 2" long) was the factory one. I just had to clock it a little, then when you take the top bracket off it will just swing out into that spot. There is just as much clearance as before as the ALT just swung away from the engine a bit.
    " I drank what?" - Socrates


    1986 Jeep Grand Wagonner
    4bt/47rh/Np241
    Daily Driver unless im driving my VW THING

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    Hey man your mailbox i full and I cant send you another private message.. Whats your email?

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    I just cleaned it, Try again
    " I drank what?" - Socrates


    1986 Jeep Grand Wagonner
    4bt/47rh/Np241
    Daily Driver unless im driving my VW THING

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    Supporting Member redhedbronco's Avatar
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    Thinder, did you end up running that thermostat housing or switch to a vertical?
    69 Bronco 4bt/IC/HE221, NP435/203/205, 3.54 D60s OX locker F and Detroit R, military H1 beadlocks and 38" rubber
    "sealing the deal on this forum section as a whole..(and/or his entire membership here){which has been an issue before}ps: you were warned.... Redhedbronco reported for vulgarity character attack."-47Ford-1.5Ton Rats dwell here.
    Please, Drifter, don't give me any more advice because I can't afford it and I don't want to destroy my engine or truck.-JimmieD

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    same thermo housing. Belt Clearance was fine.
    " I drank what?" - Socrates


    1986 Jeep Grand Wagonner
    4bt/47rh/Np241
    Daily Driver unless im driving my VW THING

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    I'd like to see another picture of your belt set up..
    .Mt 4BT is in a 72 Bronco and my alt. is up high also. I don't think I have room on top of the alt and under the hood. I'd like to see how the belt went around you alt and you compressor . Do you not have P.S.

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    I believe PS is on the back of the driver side. He clearly shows his top two mounts the only one in question is the bottom alt mount. I would love to see how to make it or a part number even if it is stock cummins.

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    The bottom alt. mount is on the water inlet. stock location. Thinder rotated it CCW and down, if he rotated it back up it would bolt right up to the stock alt. mount. Papitt you would have the room to do it, I do. Might lose some fender tho.

    I mounted mine above IP and is v belt driven instead of serp. I wanted the option of not rolling it constantly.

    Attachment 13208 Attachment 13209
    Last edited by redhedbronco; 03-26-2012 at 10:20 AM.
    69 Bronco 4bt/IC/HE221, NP435/203/205, 3.54 D60s OX locker F and Detroit R, military H1 beadlocks and 38" rubber
    "sealing the deal on this forum section as a whole..(and/or his entire membership here){which has been an issue before}ps: you were warned.... Redhedbronco reported for vulgarity character attack."-47Ford-1.5Ton Rats dwell here.
    Please, Drifter, don't give me any more advice because I can't afford it and I don't want to destroy my engine or truck.-JimmieD

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    redhedbronco, how do you tension the V-belt? That looks very close to what I have in mind, but it looks hard-mounted: no slack in the mount to allow the V-belt to be tightened up.
    1995 Dodge Ram 2500 6BT Manual Tranny 4x4
    1980 Ford Bronco 4BT with Solid Axle Swap riding on 37" Swampers
    2000 VW Jetta TDI pulling 48-50 mpg

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    Thats all the pics I have. I sold the truck last Oct. But Redhead is right about how its the factory lower bracket, with the alt just rotated outboard. You probably have the room, it doesnt stick up past the valve covers.
    " I drank what?" - Socrates


    1986 Jeep Grand Wagonner
    4bt/47rh/Np241
    Daily Driver unless im driving my VW THING

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    Ryan, it is hard mounted, I had a tight belt on it, would get it about half way(lil more) over the top and roll motor over to flip it into sheave(sometimes). Was going to put a springed idler arm off the bottom(loose) side. This went to the back burner since I moved away from Vegas, dont even use AC anymore. Never took a pump apart and didnt know if I could rotate rear housing 90 degrees(bolt pattern looks like you can) I would have liked to use four bolts(instead of 2) like Thinders but would have put ports into IC piping on one side and rocker cover on the other. A hinged bracket wouldnt have worked for me either with the real estate issue(IC piping/rocker/hood) The tapered allen screws look sharp and might help on clearance issues. Anybody rotate the rear housing on an AC pump? Does gasket need to be replaced?
    Last edited by redhedbronco; 03-26-2012 at 09:25 PM.
    69 Bronco 4bt/IC/HE221, NP435/203/205, 3.54 D60s OX locker F and Detroit R, military H1 beadlocks and 38" rubber
    "sealing the deal on this forum section as a whole..(and/or his entire membership here){which has been an issue before}ps: you were warned.... Redhedbronco reported for vulgarity character attack."-47Ford-1.5Ton Rats dwell here.
    Please, Drifter, don't give me any more advice because I can't afford it and I don't want to destroy my engine or truck.-JimmieD

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    Thanks for the pictures of yours Redhedbronco .. I had gone out this evening an placed my compressor on both sides of my motor. Due to the fact that I have my air inlet tube bent around the front of my motor. I did not have any room for a compressor . My Alt in moved up to the center of pass side. So ther was no room on pass side either . I'll go back for a 2nd look over the injection pump tomorrow night

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    If your turbo/intake plenum tube runs around the front you probably dont have room on either side. You probably routed it that way for hood clearance but if you run tube back towards firewall over 4th rocker to intake it will clear your hood and free up room up front.
    69 Bronco 4bt/IC/HE221, NP435/203/205, 3.54 D60s OX locker F and Detroit R, military H1 beadlocks and 38" rubber
    "sealing the deal on this forum section as a whole..(and/or his entire membership here){which has been an issue before}ps: you were warned.... Redhedbronco reported for vulgarity character attack."-47Ford-1.5Ton Rats dwell here.
    Please, Drifter, don't give me any more advice because I can't afford it and I don't want to destroy my engine or truck.-JimmieD

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    Papitt,

    Im not terribly far from you. Im down in San Marcos. If you need a hand let me know. I have the Cad drawings of my mount and an extra 7320 Compressor laying around.
    " I drank what?" - Socrates


    1986 Jeep Grand Wagonner
    4bt/47rh/Np241
    Daily Driver unless im driving my VW THING

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    Thanks Thinder .. I've got a friend that has a CNC machine. I've got to check into seeing if I can route my intake around the back of the motor. I would Love to have AC.

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    Man I went to the shop and looked at mine this evening. I guess it can be routed around the back of the motor. But there is about 2 1/2 and the tubes are 2 inches. Also it looked like it'd be really close to the exhaust. Maybe 2 inches over the exhaust is that enough room.

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    Thinder, can you email me your CAD drawing of the mount bracket? Any format is fine, as I've got access to a few different programs. If you still have that Sanden I might be interested in that too. My email is wthomps79 at g mail. I really need to get my 10 posts lol. I guess thats what I get for lurking for 2 years.
    Last edited by wthomps; 04-02-2012 at 07:21 PM.

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    Yeah I wouldnt mind being added to that email as well. tyler.lynn@hotmail.com

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    this company apairinc.com has many adapter kits like this http://www.apairinc.com/detail.asp?Part=995-119 and this http://www.apairinc.com/detail.asp?Part=995-121
    They are really nice to deal with and many of the hard to find parts to convert systems together.
    1992 FJ80 4BT INTER-COOLED,VE PUMP,#2 FUEL PIN,HX30,3.5" EXHAUST,GAUGES,47RH,TOY TC,
    4:10'S,33",CUSTOM AIR SUSPENSION

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    Quote Originally Posted by papitt View Post
    Man I went to the shop and looked at mine this evening. I guess it can be routed around the back of the motor. But there is about 2 1/2 and the tubes are 2 inches. Also it looked like it'd be really close to the exhaust. Maybe 2 inches over the exhaust is that enough room.
    Any interference going over the top of the rear rocker cover?
    69 Bronco 4bt/IC/HE221, NP435/203/205, 3.54 D60s OX locker F and Detroit R, military H1 beadlocks and 38" rubber
    "sealing the deal on this forum section as a whole..(and/or his entire membership here){which has been an issue before}ps: you were warned.... Redhedbronco reported for vulgarity character attack."-47Ford-1.5Ton Rats dwell here.
    Please, Drifter, don't give me any more advice because I can't afford it and I don't want to destroy my engine or truck.-JimmieD

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    Hey Guys, Im in the middle of a huge house remodel and im searching for those drawings. I have a handfull of computers that are all covered in plastic in my office. They are on one of those, Sorry im taking so long.
    " I drank what?" - Socrates


    1986 Jeep Grand Wagonner
    4bt/47rh/Np241
    Daily Driver unless im driving my VW THING

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    Thinder,

    When you ran this set up did you have any belt slippage?
    Got the 4BT, Collecting Parts, Dreaming of the Day.

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    I just finished a setup very similar to this. I do have some belt slippage. I believe it is on the alternator. It is a used compressor that I got for mock-up so that could be some of the problem too. Also, the parts store only had a 6 rib belt, going to get an 8 rib today to eliminate that issue. I will let you know what happens.

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    8 rib belt installed and it helped alot. I still have some belt slippage at times. The truck has a 1 wire alternator & most of my slippage comes when the compressor is on and the alternator is in "charge mode". May have to add an idler between the compressor and alternator, maybe on the top alternator bolt. Any suggestions on that?

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    It would need to be further inboard than the top alternator bolt I would think. You want more wrap around the alternator pully. Something between the tensioner, alternator, and AC would be ideal, but it would have to be small which could be an issue for the belt life, as well as the extra length you'd need.

    I thought about going: crank -> alternator -> water pump -> A/C -> tensioner -> idler (i.e. use the water pump as your idler). That would give you great wrap of the alternator, water pump, and A/C, but you would loose wrap around the crank. It might still be enough but you'd have to test to see.

    The other option would be to see if you could move the tensioner and use it as an idler between the alternator and A/C, but I'm not sure you can wrap it that way due to it's design, or that the tensioner body won't interfere with the A/C -> idler portion of the belt.

    A third option would be to try and move the alternator futher down. That would increase wrap, but by the time you were low enough I'm not sure you wouldn't have interference issues with the body or the lower coolant hose.

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    Quote Originally Posted by upnover View Post
    this company apairinc.com has many adapter kits like this http://www.apairinc.com/detail.asp?Part=995-119 and this http://www.apairinc.com/detail.asp?Part=995-121
    They are really nice to deal with and many of the hard to find parts to convert systems together.
    I called them this morning - wholesale only - closest rep is Phoenix, 200 miles away.
    1986 Ford F150 with 1952 Bell Telephone System service bed, 4BT, CPL 727 with 3,400 RPM governor spring, small aftercooler, AC, PS, Cruise, 1997 M5R2 5 speed overdrive transmission, Stock P215/75R15 tires, 2.75 rear axle ratio, approx 25 MPG average, Driven in 10 states in 2013, 2014 Diesel Confab - 22 states in 15 days
    http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...rtbed-with-4BT
    Still plays with trucks

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