Dana 60 axle widths?
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Thread: Dana 60 axle widths?

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    Default Dana 60 axle widths?

    My '72 Ford F100's poor little 9" doesn't seem to care for the 4bt's low-end, 3.55 final drive ratio and the 265/75R16 tires. And the pinion u-joint keeps going out too. So the plan is to find a D60 with the same wheel mounting surface (WMS) to WMS width as the front axle. My 72's front axle (Dana 44) width is 69" from WMS TO WMS. Can any of you provide me with some options for a Dana 60 that has approximately this same WMS as the the front Dana 44? I know I'll have to change out or redrill the hub flange assemblies, and some other minor fab work, but that's not a biggie.

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    I've actualy seen 67-72 f-100s in the local pick and pulls that had factory 5 lug Dana 60s in them. They were in 2wd trucks. So all you need to do is find one. No fab work required.

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    Yep, those are out there, but the problem with the 67 thru 72 F100's is that the rear track width is nearly 4 inches narrower than the front track width. I hate that the axles on my F100 have differing track widths. Plus, the five-lug Dana 60's are all semifloaters, and I would like to upgrade the rear axle to a full float setup while I'm swapping the axles.

    In a nutshell I'm looking for a Dana 60 full float axle, with a WMS to WMS width of 69 inches, 3.55 ring and pinion ration, and with either 1350 or 1410 pinion yoke U-joint. Disc brakes would be a nice addition but isn't necessary. My biggest problem is that I can't find any information on rear Dana 60's track or WMS to WMS widths. If there's a resource out there that gives detail information on GM, Ford and Chrysler Dana 60 widths, I could then narrow down which applications to start looking at that would have an axle that will work for me.

    Got anything?

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    Why not run spacers? they may make an 8-5 lug adapter as well? In my opinion having the front axle 1-2 inches wider makes for a more controlled ride and if your wheeling its like if the head of the mouse fits through something you know it can make it kinda thing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fnnissan View Post
    Why not run spacers? they may make an 8-5 lug adapter as well? In my opinion having the front axle 1-2 inches wider makes for a more controlled ride and if your wheeling its like if the head of the mouse fits through something you know it can make it kinda thing.
    Good question!

    I've observed that wheel spacers tend to be very hard on wheel hub and bearing assemblies. Also, I dislike the fact that I would have to remove the spacers in order to any brake servicing, andthe narrower track width is a huge PITA if you're driving in the sand, snow, or mud because the rear is always hunting for the front's tire tracks. If I were crawling or 'wheeling I would consider the narrower rear track width, but in this case I believe that matching track widths will offer my pickup better performance and less maintenance.

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    Good points! I am not aware of a rear d60 that is 69 wide. Id say most older d60 rears are 65-67 wide from what I've seen. Maybe a drw axle is that wide?

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    Quote Originally Posted by fnnissan View Post
    Good points! I am not aware of a rear d60 that is 69 wide. Id say most older d60 rears are 65-67 wide from what I've seen. Maybe a drw axle is that wide?
    Thanks, fnnissan. I think I need to find an axle from something newer than 1972 in order to get the wider track width, but I don't know what vehicles out there have track widths that are going to be suitable. There's plenty of information on the 67 thru 72 F100's having a narrow rear track, and plenty of information on Dana 44's and 60's front axle widths. But there's just not a lot of definitive information on rear axles that I can find. I really need the help of someone more knowledgeable than myself on this issue. Who knows? Maybe a dually rear axle will work.

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    14 bolt rears come in full floaters and semi float, disc brakes(late), not the small ones. They are generally cheaper than D60's, however changing the bolt pattern from 8 to 5 might be difficult. How about getting 8 lug front hubs and rotors to match.

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    so is there a reason not to run an 84 ford 1 ton/3/4 ton front and rear axle--got dana 60,s on both ends use the 8 bolt hubs the way they are (there are many more years than the 84 just used it to keep it short)--bob

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    Quote Originally Posted by savoy64 View Post
    so is there a reason not to run an 84 ford 1 ton/3/4 ton front and rear axle--got dana 60,s on both ends use the 8 bolt hubs the way they are (there are many more years than the 84 just used it to keep it short)--bob
    There are two reasons why I would rather not swap both front and rear axles. The first is purely aesthetics for me, I want to keep the pickup looking as much like a stock 1/2 pickup as possible which means keeping a 5 on 5.5 lug pattern. The second reason is complexity, duration and cost of the swap. A front Dana 60 would be very nice, but custom radius arms would need to fab'd along with spring perches, steering components and the like. That would more than triple the time expenditure and cost of the swap and all it would really net me is matching track widths and lugs patterns. It would be much easier for me to only replace the hub flanges on the Dana 60 with aftermarket ones that are drilled for 5 on 5.5 and leave the frontend stock.

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    5 on 5.5 D60's come stock in IHC's, smaller 5 lug bolt pattern on Chryslers-both semi float, aftermarket full float 5 on 5.5.

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    Dynatrak, Currie and Yukon make shafts with any bolt pattern you like. Think Mark Williams in CO does also. Ford 9" and D60 are close on strength. 9" have the aftermarket to make axles much stronger than stock D60s. If you keep losing u joints a 1350/1410 upgrade might help.
    69 Bronco 4bt/IC/HE221, NP435/203/205, 3.54 D60s OX locker F and Detroit R, military H1 beadlocks and 38" rubber
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    I would seriously reconsider the notion that a rear D60 is any stronger as a whole than a Ford 9" especially when comparing a 31spl 9". There are some D60 rears that are actually weaker than the 9". As far as your pinion u-joint being weak has nothing to do with the 9", just get a bigger series yoke. and make sure your drive shaft alignment and phasing are correct. I'm running a Sterling 10.5 rear axle, have a 1310 rear joint, running 41" tires and still have no joint reliability issues.
    Most people I know really do not like the rear D60, it is so close in strength to a Ford 9" and the 9 will get the nod for the stronger R&P setup it is not worth the trouble. Aftermarket support for a 9" is incredible, you can get anything you want even full float axles. If you still want a rear axle upgrade from a 9" thats worth the effort look at a D70, Sterling, or 14 Bolt. Dont get me wrong I'm not a D60 hater, lol. The front D60's are great. But I have broken my fair share of rear D60's & know to skip over them.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ggg View Post
    I would seriously reconsider the notion that a rear D60 is any stronger as a whole than a Ford 9" especially when comparing a 31spl 9". There are some D60 rears that are actually weaker than the 9". As far as your pinion u-joint being weak has nothing to do with the 9", just get a bigger series yoke. and make sure your drive shaft alignment and phasing are correct. I'm running a Sterling 10.5 rear axle, have a 1310 rear joint, running 41" tires and still have no joint reliability issues.
    Most people I know really do not like the rear D60, it is so close in strength to a Ford 9" and the 9 will get the nod for the stronger R&P setup it is not worth the trouble. Aftermarket support for a 9" is incredible, you can get anything you want even full float axles. If you still want a rear axle upgrade from a 9" thats worth the effort look at a D70, Sterling, or 14 Bolt. Dont get me wrong I'm not a D60 hater, lol. The front D60's are great. But I have broken my fair share of rear D60's & know to skip over them.
    Thanks for the personal experience and advice. You're absolutely right that the 9" is incredibly strong, just not mine. It's the small bearing setup with 29 spline shafts and that narrow track that I hate so much. I really want to get away from the semi-float axle without spending a bunch of cash which eliminates the 9" full float conversions for me. I would wouldn't mind a Corporate 14 bolt, but I still have the same problem of trying to find a 14 bolt that has about the same track width as the front, and then finding or drilling the hub flanges for 5 on 5.5. Any suggestions on which 14 bolts to start looking at? It is an option that bears further research.

    I am beginning to think that my problems with the u-joints stemmed from them being cheap chinese knock-offs because the last one I replaced with a heavy duty Spicer u-joint and I haven't had a problem yet.

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    you need a D60 from a van, or a 14bolt from a van. they are wider than the truck rears. I run a van 14bolt in my scout and its the same width as my d60 front.
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    there is always the bigger is better approach (lol). 11.5" AAM axles found in both Dodge and GM late model diesels. this is what I've bought for my Jeep project. The following specs were found on Comp D

    tube diameter is 3.5 inch versus dodge aam is 4 inch.

    Wheel to wheel distance is 68.125 single wheel and 74.125 dually axle.

    Spring pads are 48.625 center on both single and dually axles.
    Taking my toys and heading to another sandbox.

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    I think the 14 bolt van is 72" the srw is 67.5 you think you will notice 3/4" on each side? all older chevy trucks are that way. I am running 75.5" in the front and 73.5 in the rear and don't notice unless I am searching for it.

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    Wouldnt a u-joint like spicer or heavy duty CTM and rims with the proper backspacing be the easiest fix? Agree with Ggg on the 9" comparable strength to the D60. And with the 9" alot better gearing ratios for diesels. You're in NM and at 75mph limit, correct? I pick up tall 9" gearsets from 2.47-3.00 when I can and 2.47-2.86 would put you in the right rpm range if your trans is 1:1 final. Or are you running OD?
    Last edited by redhedbronco; 12-18-2011 at 02:12 PM.
    69 Bronco 4bt/IC/HE221, NP435/203/205, 3.54 D60s OX locker F and Detroit R, military H1 beadlocks and 38" rubber
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    Please, Drifter, don't give me any more advice because I can't afford it and I don't want to destroy my engine or truck.-JimmieD

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