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4BT Into 1965 GMC 4X4 1/2 Ton Truck Build

69K views 184 replies 34 participants last post by  things 
#1 ·
Spent alot of time with my Dad in the 1960's Chevy trucks, so when my brother wanted to get rid of this one I bought it for $1,000. Had a nice chevy 350 and a TH350 but was patched together and pretty rusty.
I took it all the way apart and planned to do a frame off restoration but as gas went up my interest went down so it sat for a few years.
I was building a barn for a friend and he kept moving a bread van telling me it had a really nice motor that people would but in all sorts of trucks and which he planned on doing. Well he ended up offering it to me at a really great price and I started at Stovebolt asking about if anyone there swapped a diesel into the old chevy's. Grigg (DSC) told me about this site, and have been here daily since.

The truck started life as a 1965 GMC K-10 with a 292 motor, the cab was so rusted I had to find a better one which is a Chevy and is waiting for new rocker panel so I can finish the metal work and get it to paint.

Updated the front axle from a 1976 Blazer so I could have Disc brakes, also will have Power steering. Gruman Bread van did not have hydroboost.

Transfer case is the stock Rockwell.

Rear axle is a Dana 44, as is the front. Had the front leaf springs resprung for the weight of the 350, now that will be changed for the added weight of the 4BT.

Transmission is a M5R2, wanted a ZF but just worked out to a R2. Resurfaced the flywheel, new clutch etc. and had the transmission rebuilt.

We have a full shop where we restore WW11 Tanks and all sorts of other stuff so the motor mounts were done in house. Motor fit real well in between the frame rails, boxed the frame from shackle to shackle.

Painted the frame last Saturday, brought it inside and installed the engine on Sunday.

The engine is a stock 4BT with 105hp. I got a fuel pin and Gov. spring (3200) from Scott at TDC along with a KDP kit. Though the motor is a 1984 in a 1987 bread van I assumed that the KDP was Killed so I was thinking I would not look, Char33 told me I should check and he was RIGHT! (Thanks). So I spent alittle more time painting things.

Plan on getting the injectors reworked by Scott at TDC for added performance.

Bled the fuel system and ran it very briefly tonite.

So soon as the metal work on the cab is done I can start putting the inner fenders and radiator apron on, then the front end.

Interior of the cab is all done and waiting to be installed, grey was the color of choice.

Wanted it to look completely stock so the upper cab will be white, body might be Red or Turquiose.....

Though I still have a way to go, I keep a hopefull eye out for a 6BT and my next project, a old power wagon. Thanks BobS for your time and organization on this site, I could never have done this with out all the information you have put together! Jeff
 

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#27 ·
Got all the brake lines done today, everything routed and tied down to the new P/B unit. Now I feel good enough to start putting on the sheet metal and tins.
New shocks got in (Rancho 9000), thought I could bolt them up but nothings ever easy.......
There is a car show in 6 weeks here locally so I trying to motivate myself to finish it in time. Seems possible if the painter can finish the bed, he's pretty slow.
Thanks for checking it out guys.. Jeff
 
#28 ·
Bought another donor truck and been pulling lots of little things off that was needed, less time on my project but should have everything to finish the truck now.
Got the steering column finished but need to install the dash harness first before it goes in.
Moved on to the front today, assembled and wired installed the front clip. Painter though the GMC would look good turquoise, I don't think it does though. I have a second set and will go white.
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#38 ·
ainter though the GMC would look good turquoise, I don't think it does though. I have a second set and will go white.
View attachment 13731
How about two-tone? Outline the turquoise with white. I think the contrast of turqoise against the white will highlight the turquoise - like the rest of the truck.

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#29 ·
Spend a few hours with a mini grinder removing some old rear bumper mounts that were welded on, then decided to remove all other non factory add ons (bed). Put on the new front bumper but remembered that the old steel one was welded on so spend more time removing all the weld areas. Fits nice now.
Bench bled the M/C but ran out of time to do the brake system. Tomorrow is another day.......
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#31 ·
I agree that white would look better, but the turquoise doesn't look bad either.
Something to consider with flipping the exhaust. I didn't look back through your complete thread so I'm assuming you have a center dump or cut down 6bt. Your clearance on your intake to oil filter and alternator will become an issue. A rear dump might suit you better if you have the exhaust clearance. Personally I like where she sits now, but if you upgrade the turbo and injectors you might have to consider 2 things.
1. the compressor housing is going to be a bit bigger. Probably a non issue.
2. if you hop her up to much you will have to consider room for inter/after, air to air, water to air cooler and all related plumbing or end up driving by the pyro.
She doesn't look like you'll be using her for much towing and you might not have anything to worry about but before making any of these moves you might want to do some research and or consult some of these guys here that know a lot more than "Shadetree AL":D
Your truck is simply beautiful. Does it have a wood slat bed?
I too am waiting patiently on my painter. It's like watching the grass grow.
Regards, AL
 
#32 ·
Put in the bumper to see if it helped the letter color, better but I have a second set in the paint shop going white as I like the factory look. They also came in chrome which are on e-bay right now.
Conchy your right on about the exhaust as it is a center dump and I wondered about the oil filter when it is turned upside down. Been browsing some builds about that issue. Posted a thread about turbo update and injectors but had no replies yet. Local shop wants $400 to rebuild the injectors, Scott (TDC) is on the mend still from what i understand so I thought about POD injectors?
Put the sheet metal on the front. looks tough for a I/C or CAC plumbing. Battery is right in the way right now. But ......... Will put a pryo for sure.
Truck will get a hitch but how much towing I don't know right now. LOL. The bed is getting new western yellow pine with stainless bolts and bed strips.
Painter has the hood now, thens moves on to the bed. Man he he slow! Thanks for the input! Jeff
 
#33 ·
On your exhaust manifold, you shouldn't have any clearance issues with any normal turbo. If you flip it you will come into conflict with the oil filter. Your compressor housing and the filter will be using the same space. You could go with a remote oil filter set up which would help that situation. If you go low with the turbo you would need the rear position exhaust manifold which is probably the most common. Look at DarinGT's build of Droopy the Snow Plow. Turbo is close to the oil filter but a cobrahead intake clears it. But if it doesn't hurt where it is leave it alone. You can also put a heat blanket on the turbine housing. Would help in 2 ways. Keep the heat away from the heater box and improve spool up on the turbo. Also covers up that housing that usually winds up rusting.
 
#34 ·
Thanks Char,
I would like to keep the manifold as it is, I plan on updating the turbo (with injectors) and have been seeking some input on another thread. The height is no problem as the hood rises up quite a bit and a I can cut into the heater box as the radiator sits on the far side. Do you consider a HX-35 or HY-35 normal? Thanks Jeff
 
#35 ·
I would consider both the HX35 and HY35 normal. The HX35 with a 12cm housing works well. The HY35 comes in 2 versions. The first version was used up til 2003 on 24 valve engines. The second version was used on on 2003-2004. This one is generally referred to as an HE341 and is very popular for 4bt's. It has a 9cm housing and spools very fast. With such a small housing it sometimes has higher EGT. If possible run a 4" exhaust to keep the heat down. Can do 5" if you have the room.
 
#36 ·
Thanks again Char that helps a lot. I do have room and was planning on using the donor van exhaust which is 3". I will plan to go up to 4" at least. Plan to tap in a EGT before the turbo.
 
#37 ·
Definitely want to consider 4" exhaust with any kind of engine mods. Want to let that thing breathe. Pyro and boost gauges are pretty much essentials. No such thing as too many instruments to monitor an engine. Want to keep track of what's going on under the hood before it becomes a problem. I keep staring at that truck and thinking how beautiful it's going to be and I'm not really a GM fan. When you were talking about the color of the GMC emblem in the grill did you ever consider painting it red. Might make an interesting contrast. Heck just get a couple different ones and change em out from time to time.
 
#39 ·
I will switch out the exhaust to 4" as I have not ran it yet, would of had to mod the 3" anyway. Now I have to find a muffler though. Any thoughts?
Plan on a Auto Meter Z series gauges Pyro, Tach and Boost. Not sure if I can trust the original cluster so might add oil and temp.
Painter suggested red but I thought it would clash but what do I know? I have another set in primer right now maybe I will try red before white.

95Z I like your idea about white around the turquoise, I will do that this week when we spray white. Thanks

Bled the brakes today, did it solo with the old coke bottle, rubber hose with a bolt in the end and a slit. Works well but takes time. Then bled the clutch, got brakes and clutch now......
Put together the bed in the morning when it was cool out side, had all the molding holes welded yesterday as I am not putting trim on it. Hope to have the hood painted this week then he can do the bed as it is ready to go now
 
#40 ·
Hoped that the hood would be painted but the painter was MIA lately.....
Had to cut and fab the drag link, then then remove 1-7/8" from the lower steering column so it would fit. Then redo the stops. This axle was out a 1976 Blazer so it is all new to the GMC.
It now steers, has brakes and clutch. Found some boots for the shifter and 4 wheel and got them in, mounted the seat.
Broke the return line on the tank while making adjustments, pulled the tank out and fixed it. Baby steps......
Put the rims back on to check the steering stops and any other issues, seems OK for now.....
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#41 ·
I see you're running one of the many variations of a 6BT high-mount fan hub (school bus, medium duty etc.), does this center your fan to your radiator shroud, or is it now too high ? Also interested in watching how a 4" pipe passes around/through the Pass side drop transfer case/crossmember. Great work. :)
 
#42 ·
The donor van had a electric fan on it, I am not sure if I will reuse it or not. The hub was on the engine and it is close to center by chance (luck?). Had the radiator built to fit stock location (punched brass and 4 row). Looks like I can put a shroud and fan as I have about 6" from the hub to the radiator.
Thought the exhaust was 3" but is really 2 1/2". It again was what the donor van was running. We do a lot of custom headers and exhaust so when I upgrade the turbo I will deal with that. I will most likely run what I have at first then figure what I need exhaust wise. Right now the exhaust figures to exit in front of the rear passenger wheel. Jeff
 
#45 ·
It should bolt right on and is all wired, be the easy way out also. Thanks
 
#47 ·
Tested the fan and it ran great, so it will get cleaned and painted before it is installed

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Made a little headway today, put the doors and front fenders on.
Yesterday got the bed together and squared up so it is in the painters hands now.
Going to take a brake for a week or so since I am waiting for the painter. Plan to throw the snowboard, flyrod, offroad bike in the van along with the dog and go camping up at Mammoth Lakes Ca. for a week or so...
 
#48 · (Edited)
The "rear angled ford" ex. manifold flipped upside down would move you from where you are to about 4-6 inches forward and would tilt to pass wheelwell slightly for more clearance, but would need horizontal oil filter. Have you considered the IC (if not for hp upgrade) as a fuse in case the turbo loses a fin or grenades? I didnt neccesarily need IC but didnt like seeing the piping dump right into intake plenum. Still on vacation, huh?
 
#50 ·
Snowboards and dirt bikes kill me anymore. Catch some fish?
 
#51 ·
Howdy Red,
It was so fricking windy, saw some but not on my line. My dog kept wanting to eat the cheese on the rocks and such, I spent more time dealing with him then fishing...... Went to Aurora out by Bodie and did some metal detecting also (nothing found)
Had to move(not the project), got the computer back on and such finally. Now I can get back to the truck.
Hoped to have the hood done but it was not. Talked to another painter and will switch to him this week. Its only been 9 months!
 
#52 ·
unless it's too late (like I should have asked earlier in the project before all the fenders went on) do you maybe have the dimensions of your frame rails where the engine is? I have a 66 dodge town wagon, and it might be similar to how your frame rails are. And what do you mean by boxing the frame? And how are leaf springs added exactly? Is there a science to it, or do you just walk into a place and say you want to drop a heavy diesel in the front end?

Very nice looking truck! On the GM side of things, i've been curious about a conversion like this for a 1959 chevrolet apache also. Think there is much difference between a 65 GM product and a 59? (3200 fleetside if that means anything) Stock 283 V8 and some kind of manual transmission (stock also)
 
#53 ·
The frame rails are shaped like the letter C and face to the inside towards each other. You get some flat plate and cover the open end and trace it, then cut it so nothing goes under or over the rail then weld it on. I did mine before the front shackle (leaf spring) to past the rear shackle. It adds alot of strength to the frame as the engine sits right on that area in my case. Someone else could explain it better I am sure. (Please Do)
Mine was stock as a 4WD so the leaf spring were original to the truck. Springs are upgraded to handle the 900lbs. approx. Which is important to note to you or your builder.
I will measure the frame and post a few pics, might be one of the frame in the beginning of my build I thought.
Frames are close all though the 60's though I am not sure of the 50's. I will check one of my books.
Mine is a 1/2 ton, a 3/4 would of been nicer but use what you got! Good Luck! Jeff
 
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