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1986 Ford F150 shortbed with 4BT

162K views 360 replies 43 participants last post by  Russ McLean 
#1 ·
Greetings from semi-sunny southern Arizona.

Mountainous landforms Mountain Highland Mountain range Vehicle


This is a winter retirement project. The above vehicles are our daily drivers (2001 and 1994). They are economical to operate, but, I can't patch them forever. And can not afford new replacements.

Last September, I found a 1986 F150 on the Tucson Craigslist. The 300 CID, 6 cyl engine had 2 dead cylinders and the primer job was bad. It had a manual trans, so it might be an easy swap with the 4BT in my 1986 Ford E350 Grumman bread truck.

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Stuff sat for a while, I had lots of property maintenance before the winter came. I eventually got the front clip off and the engine/trans out. Then stripped out out all the ac / heat / defrost stuff.

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Then patched the big holes in the firewall. The porcupine looking objects are Cleco fasteners - great for pre-assembling patch panels.

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After a couple of power washes, I used up a few cans of flat black that were on the shelf. Maybe not my best choice, flat black shows everything.

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To be continued...
 
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#2 ·
Making it quieter

First, the truck needed to get quieter. Dynamat on the engine side of the firewall.

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Then cope with the floorpan. The driver side had some rust. After some work with a wire cup on the grinder, there were a few pin holes. I patched these with JB Weld. Followed with a coat of cheap, brush-on, bed liner - to seal the floor from moisture. Do NOT forget to tape over the threaded holes before applying the bed liner.

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NOTE: The black rectangles are some "cheap" asphalt based sound mats I bought locally. The are like asphalt shingles, with out the grit. I DO NOT RECOMMEND them. I am using them up on the flat spots - after preheating them with a heat gun.

The base model Ford truck cab is like living inside a bongo drum... I got a roll of insulation at Lowes - 1/4" thick "bubble wrap" with aluminum foil cover on both sides. Here, I am building up the back of the cab, under the back window. Use automotive upholstery adhesive to stick it to the cab.

Floor Wood Room Wood stain Flooring


I have more done, I need to take more pictures.

Later,

Russ
 
#4 ·
CR,

Thank you.

I will run the step-side for a while, then switch to a 1952 Bell Telephone Company service bed.

This project is happening in stages. Not all of the stages were successful.

Stage 1. Acquire a 4BT powered step van. Friends found me a running step van (1986 Ford Grumman ex Hostess Bread truck). There are some threads on this site about the Twinkie truck. Deal of a life time, paid $800 and drove it 320 miles home.

Stage 2. Develop the 4BT and see if I trust the motor. It got a pyrometer, oil pressure gauge and an intake manifold pressure gauge. Then I got a Tiny-Tach. Installed a piston lift pump and new filters. Now that I had a baseline on the engine, a 3.400 RPM governor spring and added a little advance. Then added a free first generation Dodge charge-air-cooler (intercooler). All of this is on the web site (search Twinkie truck).

Stage 3. Drive the wheels off of it - we eventually peeled the tread off of a 20 year old tire. It was our 5th registered vehicle, we could not afford $930 for a set of new tires. We put the truck on blocks and it is now a storage shed

Stage 4. Prepare a 1986 Ford F150 chassis to take a 1948 IH cab and front clip. EPIC FAIL The 1948 IH front clip would not fit over the much wider (at the front) F150 chassis. Sold the IH for 1/2 the acquisition cost, cut the F150 frame in small chunks (got $32 for scrap), and moved on.

Stage 5. Bought the 1985 F150 short bed shown above. I will reassemble it with the 4BT replacing the 300 CID straight 6 engine. Going to use the existing 4 speed transmission and the existing 8.8 inch rear axle. Drive it for a while, determine what needs to be fixed. Get a good feel for what changes are needed to the rear axle ratio. I am about 40% into this stage.

Stage 6. Once I have a good feel for what is needed. I will install a M5R2 (5 speed overdrive transmission - I have one ready to install). This will require some reworking of the hydraulic clutch system - the M5R2 has a slave cylinder that is concentric with the input shaft. I have a 9 inch rear axle that will get regeared to put the engine RPM in the sweet spot. I probably will install the intercooler at this time. I also will hookup an aftermarket air conditioner that I have sitting on the shelf.

Stage 7. Rebuild and install the 1952 Bell Telephone System (telco) service body. Some pictures. The bed was converted to a trailer at some point in the distant past. Unloading it in my back yard.

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There is a storage compartment for the spare tire on the driver side.

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A door with a pull out drawer on the passenger side.

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And double doors in the back. I removed it from the frame (the back half of a 1952 chevy 1/2 ton ?) and made a dolly to roll it around the shop. The roof was rotted out - this picture shows where I am now with it. It will be many months before I get back to it.

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NOTE: I did successfully fit it to the first F150 chassis during Stage 4.

Stage 8. Body work and a nice coat of paint

NOTE: I have not painted a vehicle in the first 67 years of my life, I do not expect to paint this truck much beyond a basic hot rod flat or semi-gloss "quickie" coat. ;)

Russ
 
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#6 ·
Good weather - Pulled the 4BT

We went away for a few days, came back to good weather.

I got the 4BT disconnected and pulled. The ground slopes toward the driver front corner. I ended up making a bunch of plywood panels for the engine hoist wheels to roll on. I had to use 2 come-alongs to move the engine hoist, one anchored to the chassis and one anchored to our 1975 IH Scout.

I was a little worried about the weight of the 4BT/T19 engine/trans combo. I eventually realized that the the IH 392/727/D20 engine/trans/transfer case combo is somewhat heavier. I had no problem with that combo.
 

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#8 ·
I was a little worried about the weight of the 4BT/T19 engine/trans combo. I eventually realized that the the IH 392/727/D20 engine/trans/transfer case combo is somewhat heavier. I had no problem with that combo.
so, would you also consider to swap a 4bt into the scout?
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the offer. I am south west of Tombstone, AZ. This place is a 400 mile round trip from Phoenix. We will be in Phoenix on 13-14 Jan. Some friends are starting a local chapter of the Historical Vintage Truck Association. Maybe we could get together on Friday the 13th or see you at the show on Saturday the 14th? We will probably drive the Scout - One last gas-guzzling trip.

Russ
 

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#9 ·
I'm watching this thread. I have an '84 with the regular bed. I got a few dings and some rust on the cab and bed I gotta fix but it seems like a good candidate. Looking forward to your progress.
 
#11 ·
would like to do that,were is the meeting going to be at? and i wish i could drive the 72 truck that im working on but, it kinda dont have a running motor yet :)
 
#13 ·
Truck show 10 AM to 2 PM
Flying J Truck Stop
67th Ave & I-10 (South of I-10)

Same thing here, motor is now dangling from an engine hoist...
 
#14 ·
i get off work after 4;15 PM on friday so lets meet then. same spot or......
 
#17 ·
Sounds cool, I'll send you a PM
 
#15 ·
Friday - some progress and some set backs

I got the 4BT & t19 combo loaded on a pickup truck and drove it around to the shop. While the 4BT & t19 was dangling from the engine hoist, I attempted a test fit into the F150. The load leveler hit the firewall before the motor mounts were lined up. I will have to modify how I hang the engine to the load leveler.

Also, the steering column will not unlock. It did work a couple of months ago...

I got the bread truck reassembled, it is now a full time storage shed.
 

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#21 ·
Making some progress

Last time I posted, the engine / trans would not go all the way into the firewall recess. See Post #15 for a picture. The engine ended up 12 inches forward of the engine mount.

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We had some warm weather, so I spent some time adding a heat tape and upgraded insulation to the pipes under our old doublewide mobile home. Last winter, I managed to independently freeze up both the cold and hot water systems. This gave me an idea for new magnetic signs for our old trucks.

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This is a take off on the McLean Trucking Company logo - This company was common on the east coast from the 1950's thru the mid 1980's.

I replaced the engine leveler with a very compact chain between the engine lift rings. I got closer, the motor mounts were only 3 inches apart when the rear lift ring got stuck on the upper firewall. I really do not want to lift the cab, there is a layer of bed liner paint, a layer of insulation and a layer of sound deadener over all of the cab attachment bolts. <sigh>

I am currently fabricating a new lift ring out of a short length of 2"x2"x0.25" angle iron. We are taking the weekend off, I will report back sometime next week.
 

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#22 ·
12 inches...wow. Mine wasn't off that much. I had the same issue with the load leveler hitting right there on my '80 Bronco, but it was only by an inch or 2. A bit of "massaging" the cowl right there and I got the leveler to drop down past it and then slip the mounts into their holes.
 
#23 ·
Thanks for the reply. We took a couple of days off. I have a 3.5 inch long chunk of angle iron (2" x 2" x 0.25") sitting in my vice. A few measurements and some "quality time" in the drill press - and - I should have a low profile engine lift bracket. I will try to take pictures ( I get busy and forget the camera...).
 
#24 ·
Don't be afraid to do your own paint job, it really isn't that difficult. For beginers, stay away from base/clear and just go with a single stage color coat. Do a little reasearch on the internet and maybe watch a few youtube vids and get after it. Pratcice on the service bed first. I have done many complete paint jobs over the years in the garage or a clear plastic temporary paint booth outside. Great project, good luck!
 
#25 ·
>> "Don't be afraid to do your own paint job..."

Hardware accessory Metal


I am starting small ;)

Dang spray can was old and dusty, just barely had enough pressure to spray my new bracket. Gotta let the paint dry.

I love working on older Fords, Autozone has the transmission mount in stock, $9.99. Buy the trans mount, eat some fast food, and the paint should be dry when I get back.
 
#26 ·
Test fit - Looks like the exhaust pipe has to go through the glove box

Did a test fit today. I learned a few things that I did not want to know. ;) I will provide pictures for those are thinking about this swap.

First, get the front bolt on cross member and the transmission crossmember out of your way.

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NOTES:

1. You will need the floor jack - preposition it.

2. Remove the motor mounts and motor mount brackets now. They will be in the way later.

I lifted the engine using my homemade rear lifting bracket shown in a previous post.

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Carefully attach the front chain - you do not want to crush the #1 injector pipe.

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Watch that you do not crush the #4 valve cover. Clearances are tight.

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Notice the angle of dangle - This is needed to get the transmission in place

To Be continued...
 
#27 · (Edited)
Wrestling the engine into position

Now we attempt to stick the engine into position. Jack the engine high enough that the transmission clears the crossmember

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Slide the engine back some, then jack it up some more, For clearance on the

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Clutch slave cylinder bracket and

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Starter housing. Now carefully push the engine back until it is close to the firewall front lip.

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Then lower the engine until the drain plug almost touches the cross member.

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Now the engine tucks under the firewall.

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To be continued.
 
#28 ·
Now we gotta play with the transmission

Jack up the transmission.

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Until the oil pan clears the crossmember - You might have to push the engine back a little more.

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NOTE: This is a good time to install the transmission cross member. It will catch the transmission if something goes wrong.

Gently lower the engine. This is where I discovered that the motor mounts and motor mount brackets needed to be removed. :(

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I got the transmission resting on the transmission cross member (NO TRANSMISSION MOUNT) and reinstalled the motor mounts.

To be continued...
 
#29 ·
The final (miss)fit

I got the motor sitting on the motor mounts, carrying the full weight of the motor. The transmission is sitting on it's crossmember, approximately 2 inches lower, because the transmission mount is not installed.

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The #4 valve cover is way to close to the firewall overhang. There is no room to jack up the transmission and install the transmission mount. The engine will have to be removed to adjust the valves.

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And the high mount turbo is not going to work. The exhaust pipe will have to exit through the glove box. Fortunately, I do have a different exhaust manifold with a lower turbo mount.

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I really do not want to lift the cab. Tomorrow, I will take some measurements and see if I can cut into the firewall and build a clearance box.

Then locate the "Plan B" manifold. Test fit it and make a list of parts required...
 
#30 ·
snip,,,

I really do not want to lift the cab. Tomorrow, I will take some measurements and see if I can cut into the firewall and build a clearance box.

Then locate the "Plan B" manifold. Test fit it and make a list of parts required...
It's better to build a clearance box than to compromise the exhaust with a too tight a bend.

Good to see you over last weekend.

Steve
 
#31 ·
That whole engine dance is bring back memories...or nightmares...

The 1" offset between the 2 studs on the rubber mounts is what was screwing me. I got by without removing them completely, but I had to leave them loose enough to install and then rotate them 180 degrees to their correct position once the stud dropped into the engine crossmember hole. Freaking out that I might crush my fingers as I spun them by hand into their correct orientation.

Once the turbo is swapped to the low mount, I only had to remove a small section of the passenger floor and build a little raised box...maybe 1.5-2" tall...tight to the transmission tunnel hump and up the firewall just a few inches to clear the stock downpipe. Its hardly even noticeable once the rubber floor was tucked back over it. I wrapped the downpipe in header wrap and after that added thickness and the clearance I added, I have about 3/4 to an inch between downpipe and firewall at the tightest place.

I think the seam that is rubbing on your valve cover had already been smashed back nearly flat on my truck from previous engine swaps. I trimmed a curve in it with a grinder and then beat it back the rest of the way with a 3lb hammer. I'm probably not as worried as you are about the aesthetics in the finished truck. :)
 
#33 ·
I kept the motor mounts on the Cummins motor mount brackets. I removed the whole assembly from the engine (3 bolts on each side). Once the engine was in position, I bolted the assemblies back on the engine.

Good point on "re-shaping" the firewall. Dynamat will hide a lot - and I do own a short handled, 4 pound Big Forcing Hammer. :idea:
 
#32 ·
Steve, we enjoyed the visit. I was very impressed with your fabrication skills.

I was NOT clear in my last post, the clearance box will be for #4 valve cover. The transmission needs to be lifted about 3 inches to insert a 2 inch thick transmission mount. There is not room above the #4 valve cover to do this. Also, this valve cover can not be removed to adjust the valves.

And yesterday's good news was: Autozone had the Duralast Part # 2448 transmission mount in stock for $9.99.

The engine is sitting in the stock (300 CID) chassis location with Cummins motor mount brackets, using stock 300 CID motor mounts. For those who are here late - the truck is a 1986 Ford F-150 that came with the 300 CID straight 6. The Cummins 4BT came out of 1986 Ford / Grumman E350 bread van. Formerly a Hostess Bread truck - aka - The Twinkie truck.

The heat is on in the shop, time for breakfast.

Russ
 
#34 · (Edited)
looking good russ. cat wait to see the final results. i will be doing my own firewall notching as well :pissed: Replace the workno out cab mounts and that wil give me another couple of inches to play with as well
 
#35 ·
You might want to consider some lift under that cab. That is one big engine and one big transmission. It definitely will put a big grin on your face when you drive it. I recall an old tech-tip that recommended using a new wheelbarrow as the starting point for major firewall modifications.
 
#36 ·
yep will consider that as well
and yes i will have one huge grin, and the sound of a purring Cat just makes me smile :)
 
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