1987 Nissan Hardbody 4bt swap
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Thread: 1987 Nissan Hardbody 4bt swap

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    Default 1987 Nissan Hardbody 4bt swap

    Well its 3am and I have been wide awake all night thinking of what I need to do next moving towards my dream swap. I have an old ford hostess van I picked up a while back. Ive had enough I'm gunna swap the complete drivetrain from the van! My nissan just blew another reverse gear (37s locked front and rear :p). So instead of waisting my time I'm gunna swap. I don't care its got 5.38s with a 4 speed and will only be 2wd for a while..its getting a cummins! Its not my dd so it can be a work in progress I will be starting soon!

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    185678_204250316257393_100000172782598_945973_219852_n.jpg406650_347956078553482_100000172782598_1707617_1013737605_n.jpg309776_327304253951998_100000172782598_1642009_1508854500_s.jpg

    Here's some pics of the nissan. D44 SAS, D44 rodeo rear w/ 4 wheel disks,5.38s, 37"mtr's, Yukon grizzly locker rear and zip front, about 10" lift (1.5" body, 8-9" suspension). Got a set of 3.5" stacks I want to use. They arnt hooked up in the pic just sitting on the box. I'm gunna cut the neck downs off the bottoms of them and bring them down to a few inches over the cab roof. Also included a pic of my old reverse gear. Put a new one in and last weekend was my 3rd time out with the new gear and guess what..BANG! so time to upgrade

    I realize 5.38s suck and the rear 44 is a bit small. I have a rear 60 that Im gunna narrow while keeping it a full float setup. Gunna swap to 3/4 ton Chevy 8 lug outters on the front. 4.56s and a Detroit in the 60. Eventually I will swap in a 4wd 5 speed in place of the current 2wd t18. I'm planning on a set of 16" street lock wheels with a 37" MT tire. My truck will start turning away from being a wheeler I want to fix it up nice into something to drive for fun, go get fire wood out camping, ect.

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    You should just go with a ZF and ford T-case, cheap and ill bolt right up to your engine.

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    I might end up doing that. Eventually id rather swap to all dodge parts including nv4500. Just makes the most sense to me for ease of getting parts. Maybe I'm off with that though

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    The Ford gear is getting pretty common now. Also, it would bolt right up to the adapter that is already on your engine. Look into the MazdaFord M5R2, I think, not as strong, but readily availible.

    Ed

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    the ford trans is way sweeter to drive than the nv4500.
    88 Chevy Airforce crewcab. 6bt NV4500 valair clutch, modified 4k GSK
    http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=522535
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    Quote Originally Posted by yankneck696 View Post
    The Ford gear is getting pretty common now. Also, it would bolt right up to the adapter that is already on your engine. Look into the MazdaFord M5R2, I think, not as strong, but readily availible.

    Ed
    True......the M5R2 is not as "strong" as the NV4500, but........it has been used many times with 4BT conversions and I've yet to read where it hasn't held up.

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    How long is the 2wd version? I may have a deal lined up on a divorced ford 205 if it doesn't make my rear angle rediculas

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    My power goal is eventually 200+Hp, 500+lbs tq. The m5r2 wouldn't like that id assume..but that's not happening for a while so for now if I can find a cheap m5 it will work well

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    Quote Originally Posted by fnnissan View Post
    How long is the 2wd version? I may have a deal lined up on a divorced ford 205 if it doesn't make my rear angle rediculas
    I have a M5R2 from a 1997 F150. I took these pictures in 2009.

    NOTE: I remember reading "somewhere" that the shift lever on the 1997 and up m5R2 is further back than on the earlier trans. I have no clue if this is accurate.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1986 Ford F150 with 1952 Bell Telephone System service bed, 4BT, CPL 727 with 3,400 RPM governor spring, small aftercooler, AC, PS, Cruise, 1997 M5R2 5 speed overdrive transmission, Stock P215/75R15 tires, 2.75 rear axle ratio, approx 25 MPG average, Driven in 10 states in 2013, 2014 Diesel Confab - 22 states in 15 days
    http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showth...rtbed-with-4BT
    Still plays with trucks

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    Yeah, that looks like its maybe 3 to 4" further back than mine. Mine is a 91.

    1970 F250 Crewcab SB. VE 4bt. M5R2, Hx30/Hx35 Twins, 40hp stix, DennyT stage 2 pin, Intercooled, 3200 gov spring, Starwheel cranked, smoke screw screwed, M&H dynamic timing advance, Hydroboosted.http://www.dieselpowermag.com/featur...ins/index.html
    1991 Gillig Phantom, Converted transit bus. 6v92t Detroit Diesel, Allison 4 speed. 6500 watt Diesel gen on board.
    1998 Dodge Ram 2500 12v, 4"TB, 4gsk, BHAF, TST Spring, AFC tuned. Stockish.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Russ McLean View Post
    I have a M5R2 from a 1997 F150. I took these pictures in 2009.

    NOTE: I remember reading "somewhere" that the shift lever on the 1997 and up m5R2 is further back than on the earlier trans. I have no clue if this is accurate.
    100% accurate. But you have to be careful with the 97+ trannies, if it's from behind a modular engine it has a different bolt pattern, but the 4.2L V6 versions have the same pattern as the old SBFs.

    1990 Ford F250 SCSB on RCLB frame, 4x4, ZF5, 7.3L IDI, 37s.
    4BD1T looking for a permanent home.


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    Cool ill try finding a 97+ trans and I'm leaning towards a divorced np205 unless someone thinks otherwise

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    Why a divorced NP205?

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    I have a friend who will sell me one and I could use it with any 2wd trans if I later went to an nv4500 when I crank up the power

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    I have an h1c turbo but it looks small to me. Maybe someone can help me find out more about it. Ive found it was off a piece of case equipment but cant find specs or feedback on it. Assembly #3522900, serial #H 386802. I want to build a set of compounds with an hx30/hx40 combo. Anyone know how this h1c varient compares to an hx30 if at all?
    Last edited by fnnissan; 01-11-2012 at 12:56 AM.

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    Personally I would go with the over-engineered(read:german) ZF over the jap crap Mazda.

    I am a professional mechainc and the japs for the most part engineer mechanical components with a very small if any safety margin if you want to call it that.

    The germans and most domestic brands (chrysler garbage does not count) over build drivetrain components (NP205, dana axles, CUMMINS ENGINES, ect......)
    "its a hell of alot easier to stand there and say this is what i want, here is money, make it happen, then it is to figure everything out and actually build something"

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    Ok so here's a question. I believe ive heard of this done but my truck is currently a tbi fuel system. If I remember right my fuel pressure runs around 10-15psi. That would be right in the ve pumps happy range right? Would I run the lines to the motors lift pump still? Or straight to the ve? That would make for an easy clean setup I don't see why it couldn't work well.
    Last edited by fnnissan; 01-12-2012 at 12:51 AM.

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    Anyone?

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    It seems most on this site have replaced the gasoline fuel injection in-tank pump with a pickup tube during the initial build. Most have been convinced by other board members that replacing the pump with a tube will yield greater reliability. Some have chosen to retain the fuel injection pump. From what I have read, keeping the fuel injection pump has proven successful for some, but not for others. For what it's worth, I plan to remove the in-tank pump when I install the QSB3.3T in my 1994 ZJ.

    .
    Last edited by 95Z28A4; 01-13-2012 at 05:59 AM.

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    So I went to my local junk yard and found both a zf and m5r2. The zf was in a f250 gasser, that would bolt to the ford adapter right? But its also an electric speedo how would I make that work? Or there's the f150 m5r2 with speedo cable. I believe I can fit the fords cable into my nissans stock speedometer since the cable ends are the same. The zf has a married tcase and the m5 is 2wd and id find a divorced 205 to put behind it. Looking for some input I want to go buy one of them today or tomorrow

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    Go with the ZF if the price is the same and it fits in your tunnel. The only reason I chose a M5R2 over the ZF was price and availability. I've seen brand new M5R2s for $700! And rebuilds are dirt cheap.

    1990 Ford F250 SCSB on RCLB frame, 4x4, ZF5, 7.3L IDI, 37s.
    4BD1T looking for a permanent home.


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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselHilux View Post
    Personally I would go with the over-engineered(read:german) ZF over the jap crap Mazda.
    me too... it's also what ford uses in the versions of the f350 and f550 factory-fitted with the 4bt for some markets...
    http://formspring.me/kamikazeondrugz

    http://cripplerooster.blogspot.com/ - if you can't read in portuguese (or even spanish that is closely simillar) use the google translate

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    Hmm just not sure on the tunnel clearance...thinkin more on it i might be better off sacrificing strength for size and potential cost if I need parts.

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    No 4x4 m5r2 at the yard I went to today trying a different yard tomorrow. If I found a 97+ trans would an older tcase with a cable speedo bolt onto it? Or was there something different like splines count or something? Hope to find a trans and make some progress soon

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    97+ splines should be the same, but don't get one from behind a V8, it won't bolt to your motor, has to be from a V6 after 97.

    1990 Ford F250 SCSB on RCLB frame, 4x4, ZF5, 7.3L IDI, 37s.
    4BD1T looking for a permanent home.


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    IMG_20120116_205519.jpgIMG_20120116_205453.jpg
    got my m5r2 and tcase today! Pulled them from an '88 f150. Gunna get them all cleaned up. What options are there for the clutch hydraulics? It looks like the stupidest setup..

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    So I got my truck parked in the shop today. Getting ready to tare it down in the next couple days so pics will be flowing in here soon! My van has a small 7psi electric booster fuel pump in line with the stock lift pump. Is there an advantage to this set up? Would it supply my lift pump with a more constant pressure? In turn helping the ip cool and fuel available?

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    Quote Originally Posted by fnnissan View Post
    Attachment 12459Attachment 12460 What options are there for the clutch hydraulics? It looks like the stupidest setup..
    It is pretty dumb, I've never cared for internal slaves. I'd probably grab the clutch line and master off that same F150 to keep it simple, and try to mount it to your firewall.

    1990 Ford F250 SCSB on RCLB frame, 4x4, ZF5, 7.3L IDI, 37s.
    4BD1T looking for a permanent home.


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    IMG_20120128_181042.jpg
    Made a little progress the other day. Should I just remove the core support? Or the whole clip? The whole clip would be a lot more work but probly worth it? It isnt an easy unbolted job there may be cutting involved.

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