Well, I'm sure this will be a very popular subject here so why not start a thread to give some ideas for fabbing or adapting motor mounts? I myself am interested in pics of adapting Fluid mounts to a 79 Dodge Ramcharger Crossmember... Though any pics/info about mating the mounts to any 80's Dodge/Ford/Chevy crossmembers would be greatly appreciated too! Thanks.
Here is a set of Bolt on GM mounts ..years 1990-1977 Blazer and Suburban, the old square style trucks IIRC that I passed on.. ( I was a dumb a**- New crate Motor, GM mounts, GM adapter and Flywheel etc) for $3k:frown: only if I could do that over again..
If I recall someone here in the west still makes this set for $299 I'll see if I can find the source.
here is a top passanger side picture of my mount these were weld up with a lincoln sp125 mig but i am going to reweld everything with my ranger 8 gas powered stick welder for a better weld and penatration
Looks great man! Though I have a question... What type of motor mounts are those bolted to the block and where might I find a set???? Really like that design.
How do the jeep motor mounts hold the weight of the 4B? I had thought about using them (in urethane) but at a slightly more upright angle because of the weight. No flame, just curious. With your MIG, are you using flux-core or gas? Mix or straight Argon?
Hello,
As Tacoma said, this is a M715 that I'm turning into a 6x6. That picture is fairly old. I have switched the 4BT in favor of a 6BT (the 4BT will be going into a lighter vehicle) and I'm in the process of building new motor mounts now.
I didn't have a crossmember under the 4BT, but I will make one for the heavier 6BT.
A couple of old pics... A big deal of this has been undone, specially the rear suspension(s), to mimic that of a duece and a half's. Just don't tell the guys at the M715zone :biggrin:
So far the mounts are working great, hardly any vibration really. The only thing noticable is when you shut the engine down. I have them at that angle as there isnt much room to work with. With the mounts built at that angle it works like a craddle. I like the design of Mikes mounts and almost went with something like that, but i would have a lot of metal hanging below the frame rail and i wanted to keep it to a mininum.
If you start up the cummins in a p30 you can get a bit of movement side to side on the mounts and vibration out of the engine. Running my frame mounts at a angle you can almost eliminate the side to side movement as the weight of the engine is pushing out and down on the engine mounts rather than straight down. I have another jeep with a 4bta in it that is in the midst of being built and i used almost the same design except for a solid 1 inch rubber mount between the frame mount and engine mount. I will try to get some pictures of them up this week.
As far as my mig setup it is solid wire with a mixed shield gas 75% argon, blah blah.... .But i still prefere my ranger 8 stick
Looks great guys! Got a question though, do you think it's better to weld your frame mounts to the frame, or do you think it's better to use grade 8 bolts and bolt them to the frame?
Also, it looks in those pics like there's no crossmember. What would you propose I try to duplicate using my '79 RC frame? Remove the crossmember and do the frame mounts, or fab something up to the crossmember? Thanks.
Those are from a amc kit from advance adapters, I had a amc 401 in this jeep at one time and bought a weld in kit from a.a. and I hung on to them when I sold the 401 and just redrilled the holes to fit the 4bt block. I may duplicate them if I pull my jeep back apart, but they are very basic flat stock with three holes in them and 2 ears to bolt up the rubber mounts to. I think i paid 160.00 for the kit from a.a. and that included the frame mount, new rubber triangle mounts and the block mounts. But they would be very simple to duplicate!
I agree they may not be the best designed isolators but when bolted down flat there is a lot of side to side movement in them, the way i built my mounts they are at a angle and the weight of the engine is pushing down and out instead of straight down and leaving lots of room for side to side movement for flopping around.
starting and running the engine there is little vibration....
it likes to shkae on the shut down.....
i don't know if this dose anything bad to the trans but i have a 700r4 and if i shut it down in reverse it greatly reduces the shake...
dose anyone have any input on this method?
john
i posted a couple of pics here...
yeah it is done, runs and drives nicely...
the front diff has about 3-4 inches of travel after the 3 inch lift...
clearences are tight but i'm not going that extreem for now... http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12
I had a vibration when I let the clutch out so I went under the jeep to see if anything is loose. I found the transfer case bolts loose and i tightened them up. Now the jeep vibrates more in 4th gear. Can I use fluid mounts for the t case?
what type of trans mount do you have...
i have the stlye that came with the advanced adapters for the 300t case to the 700r4....
you get vibration, but no more than a small block chevy...i only get vibration on the shut down which i think i have figured out.
on the th400 the trans incorporates the pan to the bel housing...
i found a 4x4 cover for the bottom of the belhousing..its heavy aluminimum and had a flang tig welded on the bottom of the cover to utilize the holes on the 4bt to tie it all together...
the trans mount is 2 rubber mounts with a 3/8 plate on top. The transfer case sits on the plate. ill send pics tomorrow. How do i post pics like durango guy does?
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