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Show off ur motor mounts.

427K views 423 replies 181 participants last post by  boomersrule55 
#1 ·
Well, I'm sure this will be a very popular subject here so why not start a thread to give some ideas for fabbing or adapting motor mounts? I myself am interested in pics of adapting Fluid mounts to a 79 Dodge Ramcharger Crossmember... Though any pics/info about mating the mounts to any 80's Dodge/Ford/Chevy crossmembers would be greatly appreciated too! Thanks.

Michael
 
#233 ·
The stock isolators in the 97 Freightliner were 4 pancake rubber mounts, mounted vertically. 2 in the front of the motor and 2 on the bellhousing. I was thinking of using these mounts except moving the 2 mid mount on the motor. I thought they were fluid filled but they are not. I will get a pic this morning.
 
#234 ·
Here is a photo of the stock motor mounts on the bread truck. They are flat and have just one large bolt thru the center. Anyone used this style yet? Or know how they handle the vibration? The more feedback the better the finished result. Thanks.
 

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#236 ·
I haven't seen that style but they look pretty good to me if you ask me... The biggest thing with the lord liquid mounts (the ones found in the Chevy bread trucks) are that they are very flexible and really allow the motor to rattle around. So my thinking is these are probably similar so space your engine far away from your radiator for any technical downhills etc...

Randy (W.R. Buchanan) has really good comments and ideas on mounts as well, I think many of which have been posted here... :)

Hope it helps!
 
#237 ·
I dont want to step on anybodys toes but I know a guy running the fluid mounts in a 53 chevy 1/2 ton. After he rode in my 87 dakota with the 89-93 style diesel mounts from advance auto parts,he decided to make new mounts like I have. after i rode in his 53 chevy I know why he decided to go thru all the extra work to refab mounts. On my dak i used the driver side motor bracket that came with a 4bt, but on the passenger side I made my own engine bracket using the center mount holes on the block to make room for the a/c pump. when I do my 4x4 dakota I will definitly use the same style mounts, but mostly because the 89-93 diesel mounts are more compact or at least fits the application better than the fluid mounts. The angle mounts that the bread trucks used were 318-360 dodge pickup mounts from 79-93 as at the time most of the 4bt route truck conversions were being done was before 89 which was the first year for the cummins ram.
 
#239 · (Edited)
industrialhemiguy-
A few posts above I asked another member what the part number was for his 1st gen Dodge 6bt mounts and he never responded. Do you have a part number for the 89-93 mounts you used?
 
#241 ·
The box they came in was from pioneer the part# is 2710 ,the ones i got from oreillys were thinner, well basicly allaround smaller than the pioneers and were larger than the 318 gas mounts, however they may have gotten the wrong mounts?????? The diesel mounts from NAPA looked the same as those from Oreillys. I didnt know there was three different sizes of the same style mount. 318, intermediate, and first gen dodge diesel.
 
#243 · (Edited)
Here's the receiving end for my Deutz in the Ford F150.

In the front I bolted 3/8 plates to the existing engine cradle. Anchor 2469's will be used here. On the left you see I had to fab an angle to match the Deutz mount. In the back the original round rubber mounts will sit on the pads. I used an arch from the Iveco frame the Deutz came in and welded the pads to the top. The arch will clear the bell housing and be strong. Behind I'm going to reattach the old automatic tail shaft support to help give the frame rigidity. It ataches to the top and bottom of the frame.
 

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#246 · (Edited)
If you have it attached front and back on a hoist it should be prety easy to get center. On mine and the engine is heavy in a light truck I tried to keep the weight on the engine cradle. THat puts it over the tires. I came back from the front to the cradle as it hangs over the cradel a foot.
 
#253 ·
here some pics of my homebuilt mounts, 1/4 inch steel plate, 6b motor into a 3/4 ton chevy. check my album for more pics.
 

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#254 ·
When you guys are creating your motor mounts do you just fit the motor or do you fit it with the trans and t-case attached? Any pointers would be great. I'm hoping to mock mine up tonight but I won't have my clutch or flywheel back. Can I move forward without those?
 
#255 ·
If you imagination and the measurements, you can do anything you want. But i would caution you to have the tranny, tcase, and downpipe installed before you move ahead. It sucks to find some suprise interefernce or angles that just wont work.
 
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#256 ·
Just wanted to follow up to my post (#223) in this thread.

In summary, I used the rubber isolators from 2nd gen 6bt mounts. I removed the the isolators from the stock cast bracket and pressed them into my own brackets. Well, I finally got the engine running and I'm not pleased with the vibration damping.

Motor hardly moves inside the mounts, instead it jiggles the whole front end. Certainly, gives the front shocks some exercise. Idle is 850rpm. I think I will be removing the mounts to drill some through holes in the rubber.
 
#257 ·
I got my engine mounted!

Here are the isolators I used: Anchor 2469 Front Left Mount

The entire process took about 8 hours from cardboard mock to finish.
I mocked the mounts in cardboard first and then built them from 1/4" steel plate.





as you can see the two sides of the mounts are significantly different this happened for a number of reasons. the frame rail on the jeep is slightly different from side to side. the to engine side mounts are different on the 4bt. this is because of the tilt these motors were some times installed with. I removed that tilt with the frame side mounts. The slots for the mounts bolts were drilled and cut later my slots were about 2.5-3" long.

here's pics of them welded in (drivers side)


(pass side)


both
 
#258 ·
I went with a Marine style & put gels up on the chassis rails.

I took a chance and went out side the box a bit. A bit of work but worth the space created and just about zero vibration. There is webbing behind the mounts that tie into the rear/side bosses.
I have better pics I'll try and post later. I would have posted these earlier but I was pretty burnt out by the end of the swap.

The Chevy / 4tba swap now has about 38,000 miles on it. I tore out the hub in the clutch disc and broke a U joint since. A heavy disc and high quality USA joints have been fine since.
Great site, learned a lot here.
DJ
 

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#262 ·
85 chevy

here is what I came up with. The drain plug is currently resting on the pumpkin. nothing a lift kit wont solve.
 

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#263 ·
Bought mine from FordCummins.com. Was told they would fit right up which wasn't true. They didn't fit between the coil buckets so I had to build a little perch which made the engine sit just high enough that I didn't have to modify the oil pan to clear the drag link. :idea:That was pretty cool.










And the soon to be finished product.


 
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