Radiator hose adapters
4BTSwaps.com is the premier Cummins Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Radiator hose adapters

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    230
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default Radiator hose adapters

    What is everybody using to adapt the radiator hoses to their radiators? I was thinking I would find steel pipes to fit the hoses then weld them together. Thanks

  2. Remove Advertisements
    4BTSwaps.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #2
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Oklahoma
    Posts
    94
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    Default

    I've used tailpipe in the past. But what ever you use be sure to weld or somehow put a lip on the ends so that the hose will have something to grip to when you clamp it down. The hose will slide off if not for the lip no matter how tight you get the clamps. Don't ask how I know this.

  4. #3
    Vendor
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    New York
    Posts
    808
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jcrow View Post
    What is everybody using to adapt the radiator hoses to their radiators? I was thinking I would find steel pipes to fit the hoses then weld them together. Thanks
    When I build my Power Wagons / M37, I have the radiators recored, pressure neck added and THEN, have the in/out on the radiator changed to the correct size to match the Cummins. I also have the in/out on the radiator connections attached at an angle so hoses make a nice sweep to the Cummins block. It makes a very clean install, no adapters. The cost is not that much when figured into the total build price.

    Paul

  5. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Montesano Wa.
    Posts
    126
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default

    Just to add to what Blueflame said. Several years ago I was at a rod run in Yakima Wa. On friday nghts the local drag strip had street rod drags. There was an outstanding 32 Ford 3window coupe running. The thing was show quality. Any way he was in the pits adjusting the timing in 100 degree heat when the upper radiator hose blew off spraying his wife in the face and chest. Had to be 200 degree + water. He had used stainless tubing with no lip on the ends with those phony clamps that look like AN fittings. We gets his wife loaded in the aid car headed for the hospital. The guy needs help with his car so a few of us help him with the hose and clean up but the guy doesn't leave. He stays until the aid car gets back so he can make another pass then go see how his wife is. WOW! I'm pretty sure if I would have pulled that on my wife I wouldn't be sitting here typing this today. I'd be dead meat and someone else would have my hotrod thats for sure.

  6. #5
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    52
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default

    Here it goes... It's a bit embarrassing but I have my lower radiator hose temporarily permanently in working order. I do have a plan for an improved hose in the near future.

    What I did after a little research that left me still with questions of how to tackle this aspect of the project is this: (1) Went to the hardware store and bought a few 1 1/2in plastic hose connectors (the ones with a sawtooth grip) and about $60 in hose clamps (just kidding about the $60), then I got the only 2 1/2 in hose that Advance Auto had in stock (2) I had a bunch of my old radiator hoses at my shop and started hacking away until I got what you see here:
    http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/b...diatorHose.jpg

    I have another 4BT in the shop and plan to take the lower radiator intake housing and have my machine shop rework/weld up a 1 1/2in coupler to it so I can get a better inlet angle and not have to adapt from 1 1/2 in hose from radiator to the larger 2 1/2 inlet on the bottom of the engine.

    Like I said ... temporary ... but it works well without leaks. (Just UGLY!)
    '79 CJ-7 4BT, NV4500, D300 w/ 4:1, D44 Front w/ ARB, AMC 20 Rear w/ Powertrax. not so much original anymore, though it may look close.

  7. #6
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    230
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default

    That type of plastic may not be able to withstand the temperature.

  8. #7
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Portland OR
    Posts
    345
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default

    I'm in your game BigTorqueCJ. Mine looks ugly but no leaks. I too invested in hose clamp stock to put it all together. I had a steep angle in a short distance but got it to fit. I used a 45 degree 1 1/2" plumbing piece (O.D. was pretty close to 2 1/2"), a 2" to 1 1/2" exhaust reducer, hoses and clamps. They look like frankenstein but I bet there are many more "adapters" that others have made that piece things together.

    Top part with the plumbing piece



    Bottom part with the exhaust piece



    I actually have a piece of 2" hose inside the 2 1/2" hose to seal on the exhaust reducer. Surprisingly I have no leaks.



    Note: I've purchased better hose clamps after these picks. Don't waste your time on the cheapies.

    Here it is on the rig. The first clamp on the engine side wasn't small enough so I added that cheapy clamp to tighten it up. When get a smaller clamp I'll replace the other cheapies.

    85 Landcruiser FJ60, 4BTA, 4L80E Optishift controller, 203 doubler to splitcase tcase, SOA, 38s, and more.

    Family Haulin' FJ60

  9. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    915
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts

    Default

    I use exhaust pipe and mandrel bends. It took three intricately fit pieces of pipe to make my lower hose along with a twisted rubber one.....I should have mounted my A/C compressor an inch higher. Anyhow, if you weld it, I would do a double pass over the top one notch up on heat to make sure it is all sealed up. If you rough it with some sand paper and paint it with engine enamel it is not real noticable.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts