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  1. #31
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    Yeah ya don't want soot flavored ice cream, so an extension might be in order. A coffee can (soup can in this case) would work fine, flappers are just fun to watch at idle for everyone. Will you run a muffler? I've never heard mine without a waterlift muffler. The only sound you hear outside the hull is bub-bub-bub-ploosh-bub-bub-bub-ploosh. And you have to be standing on the same side of the boat as the outlet to hear that. Inside the salon is a different story (with the ER hatches removed a demented monkey in a 55 gallon drum with a couple ball peen hammers would be quieter)

    What does your engine use for a water pump? Since mine is raw water cooled it uses a seawater pump only.
    Taking my toys and heading to another sandbox.

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    Detroit Section Caretaker Grigg's Avatar
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    Probably no muffler, it wasn't so bad without any pipe even. Plan to run it about 1,000 RPM instead of max 2,000 which should help too.
    For water pump it has a Jabsco rubber impeller normal raw water pump. Only difference in this cooling system and normal marine is the dry exhaust, no water jacket on the exhaust outlet/manifold, and instead of a lake or ocean I have a 5 gallon milk can.

    Grigg
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    Don't forget to put up a vid of it churning away. You know we all love listening to diesels, wether they are purring or popping.
    Taking my toys and heading to another sandbox.

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    Detroit Section Caretaker Grigg's Avatar
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    Well shoot, I thought I took some pictures of it almost done... still have pulleys to inslall, tensioners to make, and fuel and water lines to make, but it's getting closer.
    Here is what I do have pictures of. Whole album here https://picasaweb.google.com/1180820...eat=directlink







    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    Getting closer


    Saturday we picked some peaches and then with the old setup made 2 gallons of grilled peach ice cream (our own concoction) for a friends dinner party, it was a big hit, supposedly "the best peach ice cream ever".
    Now the push is to get it together in the new version for the 4th of July.

    Grigg
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    Detroit Section Caretaker Grigg's Avatar
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    Cooling system is done.
    Made some little bronze pipe flanges to solder on the milk can for the fittings.



    Bracket to hold the can, used bolts already there for engine mounts and one for the belt tower.


    All together


    Belts, pulleys and tensioners are next. Then fuel filter, pump, and tank, and finally clamps to hold the bucket down.

    Grigg
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    Looks great. can't wait to see it in action.

  9. #38
    Detroit Section Caretaker Grigg's Avatar
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    Here it is


    Still need to make and fix a few things but it's at least operational, we'll make a few batches for the 4th, and perhaps another on the weekend, I'll get some video of it actually working.

    You might not see it in the video but the thing shakes something terrible. I knew it wouldn't be real smooth, it's a one cylinder diesel, but it shakes way more that I would have guessed, and it already has some really soft mounts. One thing that might help is to use a spring loaded tensioner on the belt off the engine, otherwise the output shaft is sort of hanging by the belt and restricting what cushioning the rear mounts can provide.

    Need to figure out a good throttle lever or mechanism and somewhere to mount the oil pressure gauge, and still need to find or make a fuel tank. Turns out there's lots of room on the right side of the engine for a fuel tank.

    Grigg
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

  10. #39
    Supporting Member Grey Wolf's Avatar
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    Turned out nice
    '80 Scout SD33T 257,000 Mi - My youngest son, Me - '93 Dodge Cummins 4X4 340,000 Mi. '06 2500 SLT SRW Quad Cab 4X4, G56, Big Horn edition.
    , '68 El Camino W/early 1970's 6-33 Nissan Diesel 500,000 Mi - My oldest son. '90 Dodge D250 w/a '96 Cummins 215,000 Mi. Pics!

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    Wow, that does shake a lot!

    Could you mount the drive sheave to the chassis timbers with some bearings, and connect the engine with a flexible drive of some kind?
    Erik
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    http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9646
    '94 4BD2-TC, HY35W (early) with 3" exhaust & exhaust brake, 'more power screw' maxed, defuel turned up, pump turned up internally by accident.

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    I could, and did think about it as I already have a flexible coupling for it that would have been used with the prop shaft. In trying to keep it simple the pulley right on the output shaft seemed best, and a spring loaded tensioner should do about as well as a jack shaft with flex coupling. Actually there's already a jack shaft under the cart and going toward the rear (but not quite inline with the engine output). I turns much slower and will run a second ice cream freezer; with the shaft already running slow the pulley on the next freezer can be a moderate size, not as large as on the first one.

    Grigg
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    like it a lot

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    I keep seeing one of those "radiator" thingys off the top of one of those old refrigerators and used for a radiator...
    They're probably too big, but maybe they made a mini...

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    Mine has softer mounts than yours and shakes even more! They are rigid mounted in Sailboats because of their tendency to shake but you don't have that much mass to do that. I'd say let her shake. You may want even softer mounts to keep from shaking your other parts loose. Perhaps you could use a tensioner pulley off one of our B series to take up the slack due to the vibes between the drive pulley and the jackshaft pulley?

    Loved the video-looked like it could've been 100 yrs ago.
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    We'll tomorrow is the first run on the new machine, chocolate with some cayenne and cinnamon, really tasty!

    Made a spring loaded tensioner for the belt on the transmission output shaft. looks like a soft spring is all that's necessary and hope that reduces some shake. At speed it's not as bad as at an idle, so should be useable in any case.
    Also made a nice shift lever for the transmission. And a throttle that'll work for now.

    In the morning need to fix a couple weeping fuel fittings and it'll be ready to go.

    look for more pictures and videos Friday or Monday.
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    Here it is working away


    Here's the tensioner, it works just great. The whole thing still shakes but not quite as bad now, not a problem any more I don't think.


    An overall shot, note the new shift lever for transmission, and mounted the oil pressure gauge so it won't flop around any more.
    No video this time, it rained all morning.


    It does need a muffler, or I tested and it needs at least a 2' longer pipe to take the harshness out of the exhaust. Picked up a smalll ford tractor muffler of some sort from Tractor Supply this morning, I'll see/hear how that sounds.
    Also on the to do list is make a tongue for it, almost done with it already.

    Grigg
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    WOW, looks great.
    1986 Ford F150 with 1952 Bell Telephone System service bed, 4BT, CPL 727 with 3,400 RPM governor spring, small aftercooler, AC, PS, Cruise, 1997 M5R2 5 speed overdrive transmission, Stock P215/75R15 tires, 2.75 rear axle ratio, approx 25 MPG average, Driven in 10 states in 2013, 2014 Diesel Confab - 22 states in 15 days
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    Still plays with trucks

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    Love it! Put the muffler on-and a flapper style rain cap. Those are fun to watch on 1 lung poppers. My engine is pretty loud itself though. The tensioner and oil gauge look spot on. What have you decided about a fuel tank? What is that cap atop the filter mount down on the frame.

    You should build a flat bottomed plywood boat for duck season and use the "ice cream" powerplant for it during the winter!
    Last edited by twiisted71; 07-05-2013 at 09:23 AM.
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    Try these picture links.
    https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewe...03521889914530
    https://picasaweb.google.com/m/viewe...03126652324514

    Took the contraption on the road today for a family gathering, made some tasty mint chocolate chip, picked the mint about midnight last night..

    It works quite well, easy to start, only uses a few spoon fuels of fuel for a batch.

    Bought a muffler to try, not much help so I'll return it. Went back to a 2 foot piece of cardboard tube and a hose clamp, works nicely and sounds great. Anyone have a couple feet of 1.5" stainless tube laying around?

    The knob on the filter housing is a primer pump, feels like a diaphragm type and works well for burping the air out. Housing is off some imported truck, got it from a friend who had it new but unused.

    Still no luck on finding the right fuel tank. Round or oval to fit on right side of the engine is what I'm after.

    Grigg
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    use a beer can

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    Supporting Member Grey Wolf's Avatar
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    Grigg how about this type of tank?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-WISC...item53faaeed92
    '80 Scout SD33T 257,000 Mi - My youngest son, Me - '93 Dodge Cummins 4X4 340,000 Mi. '06 2500 SLT SRW Quad Cab 4X4, G56, Big Horn edition.
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    Use a Jack Daniels whiskey bottle.

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    That little round tank is about perfect, not fond of the price but I'll keep an eye on it. Also watching an oval one from a Kohler.
    Still not sold on a glass bottle for a fuel tank, but if I decide on it it'll have to be a 1/2 gallon glass milk bottle, they're plain, simple, and tough.

    Here's a new video
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    Found a nice tank, it was even free. Muffler too, as I had it on an old Wisconsin 2cyl.



    Need to make a bracket for the tank and clean it out, nasty old gas/varnish.
    Easy way to clean it is to take it apart which was easy enough to do with a torch and a little compressed air to pop it apart.
    It also had some dents that were easy enough to remove once I got it apart.
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    Supporting Member Grey Wolf's Avatar
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    No glass bowl on that one?
    '80 Scout SD33T 257,000 Mi - My youngest son, Me - '93 Dodge Cummins 4X4 340,000 Mi. '06 2500 SLT SRW Quad Cab 4X4, G56, Big Horn edition.
    , '68 El Camino W/early 1970's 6-33 Nissan Diesel 500,000 Mi - My oldest son. '90 Dodge D250 w/a '96 Cummins 215,000 Mi. Pics!

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    Nope, just a 90* shutoff valve. If I were to use a glass bowl filter the bracket would have to be much taller and unstable with as much as this thing shakes around. It has a much oversized primary fuel filter and probably won't burn but a gallon or two a year so I'm not going to miss the glass bowl filter, although it would look nice.

    Grigg
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    Supporting Member Grey Wolf's Avatar
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    Well it looks like you should checked your own stash Either way nice job, how does it sound now with the muffler? That muffler is quite popular out here at the tractor/thresing bees!
    '80 Scout SD33T 257,000 Mi - My youngest son, Me - '93 Dodge Cummins 4X4 340,000 Mi. '06 2500 SLT SRW Quad Cab 4X4, G56, Big Horn edition.
    , '68 El Camino W/early 1970's 6-33 Nissan Diesel 500,000 Mi - My oldest son. '90 Dodge D250 w/a '96 Cummins 215,000 Mi. Pics!

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    Not the best pictures but here is the new tank and muffler installed.



    I did have the muffler, the tank came from a neighbor, I made the bracket for it.
    Pulled it out of the garage last night and it seems to work just fine, sounds a little quieter but certainly not silent with the new muffler, pretty good I think.
    Only trouble is the exhaust pipe wants to unscrew from the head as the engine shakes, I'm going to try pulling it apart, clean the threads, and use some Loctite. It supposedly lets go at about 400 degrees F but I think the exhaust is running pretty cool, and the head might keep the flange cool enough. Worth a try anyhow.
    Looking for a throttle lever next and it'll be done. Well I'd like to raise the whole thing 1" above the axles so the wheels can fit under the rails to turn more, tighter turning radius. Then sometime I can add the second freezer if I want, shaft is already there to run it.

    Grigg
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    It's ice cream season again, I think we've already made close to 2 dozen gallons in the past couple months.

    Ready for a few improvements and it has a few troubles, mainly slobbers a little soot and fuel or oil out the exhaust.
    -I've tried restricting the exhaust some to help it get and stay warm, no real improvement.
    -Pulled the injector and had it tested, sprays fine and pops at the right pressure
    -compression is great, starts on the first couple revolutions of hand cranking every time.
    -Checked timing and it was within spec, even so I retarded it a little out of spec, slight to no improvement. I'll set it back within spec but retarded as much as that allows.

    Next on the list is make an exhaust pipe that turns down and points at the ground, then while I search for an answer to the slobbering it at least won't make a mess of its self. Might also be quieter.

    I'm also trying to improve the cooling and engine temp. Being a marine engine the thermostat is relatively cool, close to 165F, and with such a light load I think it's struggling to get even that warm. Went to NAPA and picked a thermostat that almost fits and is 180F. Had to turn the outside diameter down a little to fit. I'll give it a try but not sure if it'll have trouble overheating... Unfortunately I couldn't find a replacement thermostat that would block the water passage and force the cool water into the water jacket. The way it is supposed to work is the raw water pump picks up fresh lake/ocean water and pumps it to the thermostat housing where if the engine is cool it keeps going straight through the housing and is discarded. If the engine is warm the thermostat opens and also closes the water bypass, cool water then must enter the water jacket and exits through the open thermostat and is discarded. What I have will not close the bypass, some some cool water will always bypass and I hope some will enter the water jacket when the thermostat opens.

    I also made a new Micarta insulator for the thermostat housing because the old Bakelite one was cracked and I had stuck it together with superglue, I didn't trust it.

    Any ideas on the slobbering or where to find a higher temp thermostat that works like the original Volvo one?

    Grigg
    Last edited by Grigg; 05-09-2014 at 02:05 PM.
    1948 Chevrolet 6400 (2 ton) updated with a Detroit Diesel Silver 4-53T and Roadranger RTO-6610 --click for all my pictures--
    "First, get a clear notion of what you desire to accomplish, and then in all probability you will succeed in doing it..." -Henry Maudslay-

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    Grigg, how is the old thermostat actuated?

    In the picture above it looks like the hot side has a bellows or "aneroid stack"(instead of a "wax motor" or "wax pellet" like your new one appears to have), is there any way to shim that up?

    10-20 thou might make enough of a difference to justify the effort, if you can.
    Erik
    Isuzu Nut
    Deviant that's keeping the NPR (with the engine).
    http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9646
    '94 4BD2-TC, HY35W (early) with 3" exhaust & exhaust brake, 'more power screw' maxed, defuel turned up, pump turned up internally by accident.

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