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74 Fj40

215K views 369 replies 63 participants last post by  W.R.Buchanan 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, Ive been drooling over this site and this idea for about a year or more now and I finally got started with my own project. I'm picking up my 4bt in the next week or so from a 4btswaps member. This is the plan..
Take the 4BT and put dodge nv4500/Dana300 behind it. I had planned on using Toyota Tacoma rear axle(v6). Think it will hold? I think it will since its an upgrade from the stock landcruiser rear axle(which holds up ok behind the 4bt).
I hope to get everything i need while im in school for this semester and put this thing in the first part of my summer(might not happen, but need deadlines to get things done). I hope yall are willing to help/answer any problems i will certainly have along the way.



 
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#173 ·
MY god kid, that sounds SOOOOO Cooool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Randy
 
#176 ·
Thanks guys, Hearing that thing run is all the motivation anyone needs to work those late nights in the shop. Unfortunately, i am back in Raleigh for work and wont be able to work on it more til about July, bummer! As for that trip to Tn Scott, probably looking more towards late fall earlier winter...I hope!
 
#179 ·
SWEEET! ride.......... Is there anyway possible to keep a FJ40 at about a 4" lift with a 4bt?? A 4" SUA wouldnt give enough clearance for oil pan? I have a 4bt with small block ford adapter plate and was going to put it in a f150 but I love the FJ40 and i dont want it to be a massive rock crawling machine, a 4 inch lift with 33's is as big as I would like to go? Is it possible??
 
#180 ·
Andre says its possible(i think) and i know CJ5s and 7s are doing it with 4" SUA lifts. Problem i am having it that my motor is positioned really low and i am going to have issues with my front driveshaft hitting the oil pan....

As for being at Scotts, Ill try to remind you...but let me warn you, it may be awhile!
 
#181 ·
Here is another question then... If i were to get a CJ5/7 or FJ40 with a nv4500 transmission in it already. Do you think that I would have to reposition it anyways? Or just start from scratch just getting a old FJ40 with SUA 4 inch lift and putting in a nv4500 myself with AA adapter to original transfer case with the 4bt (If the SUA works)? Im not to familiar with FJ's i just would really like to get to know more about them and everyone says you need a SOA lift but then the thing is huge. Im hoping to put the 5spd in so i can take it on 400 mile journey if need be on the highway. What I would really like to do is put in a M5R2/ZF transmission because i have the adapter plate for the ford transmission already but their is no adapter from the transmission to the tcase? If you have any answers to any of the questions please let me know! Its almost summer and my dad wants the 22 foot stepvan out of his lawn!
 
#183 ·
I wish i could answer those questions like i know what im talking about, but i cant. I would be willing to bet that you could put the 4bt in the cjs without repositioning anything but i could be way off. Again, i have no idea, i have not followed any of the CJ builds on here that closely. There are a few great looking ones in the build section you may want to check out. Ofcoarse im partial, but once i get mine finished, it will sit like it does in the very fist picture on page one of my build(IMHO, not that "huge"). Wish i could help ya more, and i know what you mean about junk being in the yard....Yard Art is coooool
 
#185 · (Edited)
I hope it is possible because I am doing it. It appears that there is plenty of clearance between the oil pan and front diff.
That is only a 4inch lift? Also are you taking anything off of the oil pan? or "massaging" the oil pan to make it fit?
What tranny/tcase are you using?
 
#186 ·
4" lift

Yes this is only a 4" lift. I am running an early GM version NV4500 and the Landcruiser J30 transfercase. I have done nothing to the oil pan but I dont see any reason for concern, there is over 6" of clearance between the bottom of the pan and the front diff. I can get an exact measurment of clearance if you want one.

PM if you have more questions.
 
#187 ·
Thats pretty weird just cause everyone that puts the nv4500 in always talks about how the oil pan clearance is a huge issue..... I wonder why you dont have any of those issues like everyone else talks about...
 
#190 ·
haha, I asked some guys what my 1F was worth after i wrecked the cruiser. I was told that the boating industry had a high demand for them.......as anchors! Sold it anyway.

Home for a month I think. Just got started back on this thing.
Got my saginaw box mounted after making a plate for it. BTW, cutting the hole out for the steering shaft to go through, not that easy! You def need a large holesaw or plasma or torch.







Here is where i relocated the factory frame boxing piece to the passenger side. Thought it was a neat idea.

 
#191 ·
D'Animal, i seem to be on the same schedule as you this week. I got my tranny hump patched up for the new tranny shifter hole and the all-so-different t-case shifter spot. My dana300 twin stick setup(jbfab.net) was a really sweet setup, real high quality and shifted great! Its all stainless and looks great. I had to grab some stainless wire and weld up a different design to work for my fj. If my fj didnt have a long nv4500hd and and a dana300 clocking ring then i could run the twinsticks like JB-Fab made them, but i had to modify.
I really wanted to run the shifters out of the stock TLC shifter hole but felt better about how i have them now. It look awhile to get the hump patched up to work and look right. Once i get the hump at 100% done, im gonna cut out a plate that will hold both the T-case and tranny shifter boots down and look pretty cool i hope. Stay tuned for that....







 
#196 ·
Hydroboost system is complete....took some work but i got it...

This is the original pin that connects the brake booster and brake pedal.



With the hydroboost system, i needed a different pin to make it work since this system had a different arm.



This is the original LC pin in the hydroboost system arm. Hard to see in the picture but the pin is far to small and its too wide to actually reuse. so i had to turn a new pin that would work..



new pin:

 
#197 ·
This new pin will not use the cotter pin design, rather it is threaded and i have a ny-loc nut for it(3/8th 16). the first shoulder past the threads is for the brake pedal, the second is for the hydroboost arm(not turned to the exact size to allow it to move side to side, keeps it from binding). then the large shoulder with the flat sides is for holding the arm on and for holding while i tighten the nut, and ofcoarse the last section is to hold the brake pedal spring. Works great! very happy..



 
#200 · (Edited)
Well fellas, I got a little creative on my exhaust mounting flange. My hy35 has a 4.5" opening that a 45* elbow bolts too. This elbow reduces to a 3.5 exhaust. Problem here is that the elbow only accepts a 3.5 exhaust with a v-band flange that is almost impossible to come by(cheap). I could order a downpipe for the dodge year turbo i have and that would give me the flange but it is way too expensive.

So instead, i took the lathe and came up with this...



This is the elbow that my new flange will replace...



you can see how it has the same v-band flange like the elbow does so it can be mounted directly to the back of the turbo.

 
#201 ·
The flange will reduce the 4.5" opening on the exhaust housing to a 3.5" dia. I left some on the flange to have a nice weld shoulder. The inside of the flange is tapered as to not induce alot of turbulence.





here is how it fits on the housing..



with the band on, you can see the transition from 4.5" to 3.5" here.

 
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