4BTA into a Customized Toyota Land Cruiser

[D'Animal]

I built this rig pretty much from scratch.

Here is the entire build thread of the rig if you want to see it.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-cor...ly-begins.html
Bottom of page 31 is the rig as it stands today.


It is now time for the stock 2F 6-cylinder engine H42 4 speed and Split Case T-Case to come out and a Cummins 4BTA/NV4500/Orion 4:1HD Tcase to go in.

This site is a great resource of info and I hope to utilize it during the conversion. The top picture is from Moab were I met DieselCruiserHead in person for the first time.

Thanks for all the of the assistance so far and in the future.


Dan

[greg morton]

I think you will be very happy with the new setup. cool ride!

[D'Animal]

Started on it last night.


It took 2 hours to pull the old assy. That is from grabbing the first wrench to drain fluids to the assy sitting on the shop floor.

[D'Animal]

I stripped the 4BTA down and cleaned it up and painted it Cummins Red.

I stopped by Cummins West in Fresno and picked up new gaskets, front seal, thermostat, etc. I was a bit suprised how much this stuff is.

[D'Animal]

With some help from Bobs, I installed the new flywheel, Luk clutch assy and a new throwout arm assy with pivot ball.


I tightened down the clutch assy in 5ft lb increments. When I was going around on the 20ft lb setting, I began snapping the 5/16" grade 8 bolts. Bobs set me straight that the torque is 17ft lbs.


I got it all together and the assy is 3" shorter than the assy I took out.

[CrewCab59]

Did you fix the KDP ?

Looking good .

Scott

[D'Animal]

Thanks for the heads up, I just found out about it this morning over on IH8MUD from two memebrs who are here as well.

Did you fix the KDP ?

Looking good .

Scott

I have not made the tab and installed it yet.

[D'Animal]

The motor mounts are done. I searched through the "Show Me You Mounts" thread several times before I made mine.

I'm staying with the angled configuration since I'm using Toyota 2F enigine mounts.

Here is how the IP side turned out.

I will be setting it in the engine compartment in a bit so I will begin to make the frame mounts. The frame rails are cleaned and the old mounts are removed.

[D'Animal]

Here is the Exhaust side.


Made sure there was enough room for the oil drain pipe and still be able to change the motor mount in the future.

[D'Animal]

I was able to get the assy swung into place.

The unsprung hieght of the top of my front bumper is 37 1/2".

Kinda scary having that much weight that high in the air.

[D'Animal]

Having the same fitment challenges everybody on here that has done a conversion has had.

Front Driveshaft clearance
Drain plugs
Crossmembers
Engine Mounts
Shifter
Steering Arms
Exhaust routing
Fuel tanks in the way
etc.

[D'Animal]

Front steering looks good but the weight is still on the engine hoist, not the suspension.

[D'Animal]

If I set the assy where I want it for the shifter and driveshafts, etc. The T-Case is sitting on the crossmember for the rear traction bar adn the drain plug is covered up. If I move it forward, the steering is very close.

There will be a 3/4" sweet spot, it is just a matter of finding it.



No clearance issues with the firewall at all.

[D'Animal]

Made new frame mounted engine mounts and installed them.


The picture on the left also has an American Quarter in there for size reference.

[D'Animal]

KDP is done.


New main seal and wear sleeve (with adhesive) installed.

[D'Animal]

Front cover cleaned up and installed.


Pulleys and other Misc items going back on.

[D'Animal]

I'm very happy that my Wabco Vacuum pump and the Power steering pump cleared the bracket I made.


I have 2 1/4" between the aluminum gear case below the model plate and the power steering box.

I really hope the engine does not jiggle that much when shutting off.

[1974FJ]

Looking great D'Animal!
I wish i could make those west coast trips with yall, maybe one day....

Any plans for a two-piece front driveshaft and oil pan mods? I know ive got to do either or possibly both to make my DS clear like i want.
Motor mounts look great! and ive built some of my exhaust already and im running it behind the motor against the firewall and ive got plenty of room, im just worried about the excess noise and heat of doing so. We'll see....

Also, you plan to do any performance mods to that 4bta?

[D'Animal]

My driveshaft fits great with no clearance issues other than maybe the huge drain plug if I roll the rig.

I'm using an FJ60 frame and have the 4x4 Labs Hi-Steer arms. The 4x4 Labs setup puts the arm behind the axle. the only way I will hit that is if I jump the rig and get really big air. I'm a firm believer that tractors are not built to fly.


Before I do anything to the 4BTA, I'm going to see how it performs. It is suppose to be a 140hp model. if it moved a breadtruck down the road, it should move my rig down the road.


I'm working on the rear crossmember now and here is how I did it http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9216


Dan

[slorocco]

Have you fully articulated your suspension yet? My front driveline angles looked very similar to your pictures. Remember, with the shackle at the back of the leaf spring your diff will move up and to the rear. Think beyond a static test to real off road situations where a little bit of bouce is a strong possibility. I found a little interference off road and in a panic stop mode, all fixed now, but I thought I was ok too until I tested it in a dynamic mode.

[D'Animal]

Thanks for the idea. I have not fully articulated the suspension with the 4BT in it yet.

Have you fully articulated your suspension yet? My front driveline angles looked very similar to your pictures. Remember, with the shackle at the back of the leaf spring your diff will move up and to the rear. Think beyond a static test to real off road situations where a little bit of bouce is a strong possibility. I found a little interference off road and in a panic stop mode, all fixed now, but I thought I was ok too until I tested it in a dynamic mode.

This may sound a bit redneck but, after I bolted the engine in I used my 4x4 Kubota tractor with about 600lbs in the bucket and pushed down on the front bumper until the front tires of the tractor were off the ground.

I still have good clearance on the oil pan. It is actually better than it was with the 2F engine.

I now need a long travel front driveshaft. When the front end is lifted, the driveshaft slide apart before the tires come off the ground.

[dieselcruiserhead]

Hey Dan a pleasure as always man! Also your Chevy is a work of art! Now, to work on that mileage

[D'Animal]

Work on a bunch of little detail stuff today.

Everything cleaned and painted.
Exhaust side Mounts are 100% done.
Extra sensors removed and plugs installed
Turbo installed.
Oil lines Ran for Turbo.
Air Pipe Installed
Alternator Installed
Oil filter installed.

[D'Animal]

If you are going make mounts like I did and use any of the back set of holes for the rear portion of the mount. The holes are deeper than the front and the threads are recessed, at least on mine.

I stepped up to 40mm bolts over the 30mm that I have in the front set of holes.

[D'Animal]

On the Injector Pump side of the motor.

Swapped out bolts in the rear of the engine mount.
Installed oil line for the Wabco/Pump set up.
Installed oil pressure line.
Fabricated a Throttle cable bracket and connected throttle cable.
Installed starter.
Fought the power steering lines and decided to have new ones made.

[D'Animal]

I spiffied up the valve covers.

I used Dad's paint stripper and the paint melted away.

Cleaned, primed and painted and installed them.

[D'Animal]

Fan schroud, clutch fan and radiator are next.

[D'Animal]

First thing I did was forget about using the FJ 40 radiator and mounting system. A good nights sleep tends to allow you to see things clearly.


I used the FJ 60 series setup instead. Larger radiator, larger schoud, larger fan, etc. These little Cummins run cool but as a trail rig I can see it getting warm while crawling along or waiting in trail traffic.

After a bunch of measuring, I welded the tabs in. They are way overkill but they work.

[D'Animal]

These little rubber mounts fit great. I'm hoping they will offer enough Anti Vibration for the radiator. They are actually FJ 60 lower radiator mounts.

[D'Animal]

The uprights are made from 1 1/2" x 4" channel.


Holes for the engine side of the radiator were drilled so the exsisting bolt holes could be used.

The top of the side on the front of the uprights were notched to fit around the unique shapes of the radiator in that area.


I'm not done with the front, I have to come up with a better way to support the front of the radiator to the upright brackets.

Tabs with bolts will probably be used.