Bottom support bolted to the uprights shown here.
I angled the bottom of the uprights so the radiator will pivot out, like the bib is suppose to on a Land Cruiser. It will make changing a water pump way easier. The angle is dialed in that the radiator cannot be damaged by my bib mount when tipped out.
Clearances are good so I installed the FJ 60 Fan Clutch assy.
I used the neighbors mill and lathe to machine a hub to make it all work but it bolted right on when I was done.
For the Top of the radiator support, I used the FJ 40 radiator stabilizing arms. They are designed for the AV mounts at the top.
You can also see that I knotched the uprights so I could get to my headlight connectors.
It is back together.
Now is the painful process of radiator hoses, running fuel lines, power steering lines etc.
I'm plumbing the power steering through the tranmission cooler in the radiator in preperation for the Hydro assist steering. I'm thinking with the added volume and the cooling, it might do OK. If not, a remote res will be added.
Nice work and good pics.
Gaza
Let your words be soft & sweet...lest you have to eat them later.
6BT into a Rover thread http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19
Hey Mate,
Nice job , this will be a machine once its finished.
what gear box , transfercase and adaptors did you use?
I am currently looking at putting 6BTA in our 80 series cruiser and my mate has a Toyota Bundera and we want to put a 4BTA in that.
any help would be great.
WE have found some good 4BTA engines over here is Australia, But the 6Bta is harder to find.
D'Animal: Looks like you're about ready to go. Hope to see you on some trails. I live in Ojai CA. Where in Central CA do you live?
I have a couple of questions; What is the length of your clutch fan? From the idler pulley face to the front of the fan?
What was the source for the assembly? fan,clutch,etc.
The mega fan I was planning on using will not fit, now that I have the grill in place, but I have enough space (I think) for one like yours, which is what I wanted in the first place..
Randy
DeScrambler: Built from scratch, 4BT,TH400, USGear OD, Atlas 4.3, HP D44/ 4.10 ARB, HP D60/4.10 ARB, 37" MTR's
It's not how well you do what you know how to do.
It's how well you do, what you don't know how to do.
I used a Chrysler Adaptor and bellhousing from a 1997 Dodge Truck that came with a 6BT.
I used a Dodge 4x4 NV4500 in the 1997 vintage.
The T-case is an Orion 4:1HD. Advance Adaptors makes an adaptor to mate them together. If I had to do it over again, I would have gone with a passenger side drop transfer case that would bolt up to the NV4500 4x4. (241?) I have wayyyyyyy too much money in putting my assy together.
Originally Posted by dave bantick
I live in the mountains near Sequia National Forest around the Exeter/Three rivers area east of Visalia.
The measurement from the fan clutch face to the furtheset point of the fan (depth wise) is 4".
The assy came from an FJ 60 Toyota Land Cruiser. I think it is an 17" or 18" fan. You can also use one from an FJ40 Land Cruiser but the hub the fan blade mounts too is smaller and the OD of the fan blade is 14" or 15".
Last edited by D'Animal; 06-03-2009 at 10:17 PM.
Thanks
I try to be as detailed as possible so the next person can either copy what I did or see why it did not work.
or dana 300....
looks great though nice work!
It is time for the radiator hoses.
For the bottom hose, I used a GoodYear # 61323
The bends are perfect and the housing side is perfect. The radiator side is a bit on the big side. Since I just had the radiator rebuild and recored, I'm going to take it back and have them install a bigger neck to it matches the hose.
I want common parts on this rig so any autoparts store can supply me. I'm not a fan of the multiple reducers that I have seen on some of the other websites. IMHO a radiator hose should be a maximum of three pieces not including the clamps. Idealy one piece but many came from the factory with a metal pipe in between the oulet side of the radiator and the inlet side of the engine, ie. most all FJ's, late 60's and early 70 GM products, etc.
In the picture I'm actually holding the hose out of the way to show the inlet nipple. It is not connected yet.
For the top radiator hose, I used the GATES Part # 21729. This the the standard P30 hose that I found on this site.
I will be installing a metal pipe in the center so I can shorten the hose. The bends and sizes are perfect. I just have to find the right pipe with the flare rings on the ends so the hoses will stay on.
I have some clearance issue that I do not like.
I like the way the hose lays since it allows easy access to the secondary oil fill tube. I have the #1 valve cover for oil fill as a primary.
If I go with this, it is too close to the fan. I was going to have a 30mm spacer made for the fan clutch so the fan sits fully into the schroud. This will give me the clearance for the hose and should protect it from deep water crossings, etc. My understanding is that half the depth of the fan should be exposed behind or outside of the fan shroud, as it throws air out radially as much as it pulls it back axially. My spacer idea may not work.
Trimming the coolant outlet end of the hose on the engine and the coolant inlet end of the hose on the radiator will resolve all of my problems.
Thanks for the info, now all I have to do is find one. Haven't been to a junk yard for a while, might be fun to dig around.
As far as having wayyyy too much money in your drive train, tell me about it! None of this stuff is cheap, but look what you end up with. "Buy the best, Cry once!"
The US Gear OD was $2750, and you know how much Mikey gets for an Atlas. But, I don't think I have to worry too much about someone following me down this path any time soon.
Randy
DeScrambler: Built from scratch, 4BT,TH400, USGear OD, Atlas 4.3, HP D44/ 4.10 ARB, HP D60/4.10 ARB, 37" MTR's
It's not how well you do what you know how to do.
It's how well you do, what you don't know how to do.
What size is you fan housing opening?
I have a few extra ones, some for the 60 series and at least one for the 40 series. For the plate for the hub, I used the plate I pulled from the water pump. I can get you some exact measurements when I get back home.
Last edited by D'Animal; 06-04-2009 at 06:09 AM.
I have to make the shroud as the engine position is below the actual center of the radiator. but a 17- 18" fan would be fine. I will have right at 4 3/4" between the radiator and the fan base and it is firmly held to that distance so I think it might work.
Do you have one by chance? Let's make a deal.
Randy
DeScrambler: Built from scratch, 4BT,TH400, USGear OD, Atlas 4.3, HP D44/ 4.10 ARB, HP D60/4.10 ARB, 37" MTR's
It's not how well you do what you know how to do.
It's how well you do, what you don't know how to do.
I've been gone for a few weeks and just got back on this project.
I did not like the crossmember I made. The engine was dead on 0 degree level front to back.
I fabricated up an FJ 60 Land Cruiser Crossmember to work. The side plates that hold the cross member are welded on but the crossmember is removable.
With the new crossmember installed and all buttoned up, the engine now sits at a 5 degree back slope.
The fan does not quite reach the fan schroud like I think it should so I will have a 1 1/8" thicker adaptor made.
Last edited by D'Animal; 06-30-2009 at 11:20 AM.
Installing the dual battery tray under the cargo area on the driverside. Absolutely no room for it in the engine compartment.
All the wiring will get moved to the driverside of the rig as well as the fuel lines.
The movement of everything is to accomidate the exhaust.
Battery tray is installed and batteries in. I will go with dual Yellow top when the funds come avaliable.
Hard fuel line ran from engine to fuel tanks.
I also removed the old clutch lines, laid out some wiring, started planning the heater hose routing, etc.
Driveshaft and twin stick assy installed.
The new long travel front driveshaft is laying next to a standard driveshaft.
The really longs one are for the rear and a spare.
One of the fuel tanks is moved out of the way in preperation for the exhaust.
Pulled the bed off.
Fuel tank transfer switch installed, fuel lines ran from the tanks to the transfer switch to the pump. Wiring is getting cleaned up. Began to run battery cables. Not an overly productive 3 day weekend on the rig.
There was so much stuff that i was not going to need as well as a few things that needed to be on the other side of the engine compartment.
So I pulled the entire wiring harness out and eliminated and moved things as needed.
I found a few "Hot Spots" in the wiring harness as well.
I gave up on finding a shifter for my NV4500 so I swapped top covers with my newer NV4500.
I still need a shifter but I think I can make this one.
Out with the seats and the rollcage. Just so I didn't have to do this again just to get to the transmission, I modified the tranny hump. I make it a two piece.
Asked a friend to rebuild and port my steering box for hydro assist. Got it back the day before I got my Hydro assit ram.
Had a machine shop make me a 1" longer spacer for my fan clutch.
The fan schroud Im using is 1" narrower on the exhaust side.
Got the mock up started on my air filtration/cold air intake/water snorkle.
What is the make & model number of your air filter assembly?
.
X2 that thing is pretty sexy
Can you rotate the inlet/outlet?
Yes the outlet it rotates.
The bottom cap with the drain is also indexable (Real Word?).
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