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Show off ur motor mounts.

427K views 423 replies 181 participants last post by  boomersrule55 
#1 ·
Well, I'm sure this will be a very popular subject here so why not start a thread to give some ideas for fabbing or adapting motor mounts? I myself am interested in pics of adapting Fluid mounts to a 79 Dodge Ramcharger Crossmember... Though any pics/info about mating the mounts to any 80's Dodge/Ford/Chevy crossmembers would be greatly appreciated too! Thanks.

Michael
 
#64 ·
I am concerned because I haven't driven it yet. I'll try to let others know if they don't work well. In my research, I've seen them used in Chevy trucks with 4BTs. However, I haven't seen anyone complaining about them yet. I hope that most of the vibration problems that others are experiencing are due to the mounts not being high enough above the crank centerline. Mine are approximately two inches up. I learned about this from one of the vendors that build equipment for the company I work for. They cured a major vibration problem with the Deutz 1011F engine by raising the mounts.
 
#66 · (Edited)
I finally have the motor part of the mounts finished and installed on the motor. The black paint makes the detail of the mounts hard to see. Sorry about that. These look very similar to several other mounts in this thread for good reason. I coppied theirs. Thanks guys! I tend to overbuild things. I added some gussets and braces that may not be needed. There is a 1" x 5" gusset behind the mount slightly above the pan rail that cannot be seen when looking at the front of the mount. My right side mount is a bit cluttered. I have incorperated the a/c mount and the belt tensoner mount into it as well.
 
#68 ·
I found what I believe is a source for the stock P-30 fluid mounts today. I called the supplier but they wouldn't talk with me since I didn't have a customer number. I was told to call the home office and get set up. I'm a no-body so I didn't do that. If someone has a legit shop possibally they can call for more information.
The company is Uptime they are in Chicago I believe. The order # is 1-866-623-0770. If someone is already set up with a customer number that would be the easiest. If not this number will refer you to the home office to set up that number. The part # is W88 10953. This looks like the right part in the photos, but since they wouldn't talk to me I couldn't confirm that.
 
#72 ·
Beck. Those came out great! They look real nice. BTW...Sorry I never returned you e-mail. Couldn't send e-mails for awhile...Anyway...Those look great!

When I build mine the parts store could not find the CTD motor mounts for a 1st Gen CTD...? Huh? Well, I bought gasser mounts and built around them...DO NOT DO THIS...(unless you are going to use the gasser mounts). I looked at my other 2 CTD trucks and went "DOH"...Idiot...They are similar but very different. I got some of the correct CTD mounts and for a few problems. Fortunately, very minor problems, but I had to "rebuild" the p-side mount, to make it right. Whew! We're good now though!

Good job!

Andrew
 
#75 ·
I got the driveshaft today...need to do firewall mods for air conditioning...then put in dash/wiring...radiator, fuel tanks, and exhaust. A week or two, if I can get the time to do it. But, I'll so my best to pass on the info.
 
#76 ·
Yes Beck those look awesome! Looks like a GM alternator with a trimmed up Dodge AC bracket? That same exact setup I plan to run. How is the belt length working for you? Can you post a part number for that belt? Thanks!

EDIT - never mind saw your comment about it.. Also I stupidly forgot to take the Dodge tensioner with me when I got the bracket. So I am using the 4BT tensioner.. So your setup is actually a little different than mine, so the same part number probably won't work. But regardless looks great!
 
#77 ·
It is a GM alternator. The motor mount/AC bracket is home built. The water outlet is home built. The tensioner is stock 4bt, not Dodge. I have an ear on the motor/ac mount that holds the tensioner. The belt I have ordered is a Gates K080740. The belt # can be easily converted to size. 08 means 8 rib the 740 means 74.0 inches long. The belt in the photo is a 72". This belt size will depend on the location of your tensioner. I took a WAG on where it went. I will probably change to a different water outlet. The one in the photo points the hose at the top of my frame rail. I have another built with about a 15 degree tilt up. The one pictured has two 1/2" npt ports, one forward and one back. I installed these before considering the belt tensioner. The forward pointing port points directly at the tensioner bracket so is unusable. On the second one I built I pointed one back and one down to make both 1/2 npt ports useable. I believe the factory uses one port for the radiator fan switch and the other for the heater water return in some aplications .
 
#78 · (Edited)
Sorry Beck I didn't see your request.


driverswanted,
Tell me about how you drilled your Dodge mounts to soften them for the lighter, vibrating 4bt.
I just put the mounts sideways in my Milldrill machine vice and drilled about fifteen 5/16" holes all the way through each mount. The were done in three rows of five holes. Use a new sharp drill. A dull drill will mostly displace the rubber while drill into the mounts.

I also want to make sure we gave credit to the guy on TDR site who first came up with this mid-engine mount system. Just can't find his posts on the originals right now. I believe it was Steve Graham. Dieselcruiserhead, do you remember?
 
#80 · (Edited)
I just put the mounts sideways in my Milldrill machine vice and drilled about fifteen 5/16" holes all the way through each mount. The were done in three rows of five holes. Use a new sharp drill. A dull drill will mostly displace the rubber while drill into the mounts.
Driveswanted,
I hope this is what you were talking about. I used 14 holes. I staggered the center row between the holes on the outer rows. I used a new size M bit. Why M? My 5/16 (.312) was in bad shape. My N had been used. The M (.295) was new. It took a nice clean cut through the rubber.
I really debated about doing this. I had a hard time modifying new parts that were designed for nearly this motor. They will be a pain to change later if necessary. Hope it helps with the shake.
The 2nd photo is my chassis waiting for the motor and transmission. I am trying to get the motor as low as possible without rubbing anything while in the shake, rattle, and roll mode. No body lift here!
 
#82 ·
My mounts are mid engine. See page 5 of this thread for photos. I am using a stock 400 turbo GM mount at the transmission. I replaced the one from the truck with a new one.

I can't believe how much softer the rubber mounts are since they are drilled. I built the frame part of the mounts with the rubber mounts installed before I drilled them. I thought I was putting the engine in for keeps tonight. NOT. The softer mounts allowed the motor to drop another 1/4". I was already slightly tighter than I wanted. Now there is deffinately not enough clearance between the pan and steering arm/crossmember. I have to take it all out again and modify something. I may try to add a 3/8 shim between the rubber mounts and the engine part of the mount. It looks like the stud is long enough to allow that. I had to cut up a box end wrench and modify it to install the nut for the drivers side bottom stud on the mount.
I put a nice gash in the top of my head sliding under the truck in the process. I hit the engine hoist tube. The hoist won! No hair here so it really looks pretty.
 
#83 ·
Blood letting is necessary now and then to keep the diesel gods happy.;)
I would not worry at all about the softness of those mounts. I had Lord Engine mount people do a computer calculation for the 4BT and they actually recommended a stud type rubber mount that was only 2" in diameter. I did not buy theirs because it did not have the metal safety stop plates like the Dodge mounts. I was afraid that a front end truck crash would rip the engine loose.
On the rear mounts at the transmission I used the same ones that came from the 318 engine auto transmission that were originally on the truck. They are spaced about 10" apart under the rear of the NV4500. I tightened them down hard to a 1/4" compressed position because I was so close to my 4" exhaust with the transfer case. I did not want them vibrating up against each other. Engine startup and shut down produce about a 3/8" shake to the left and right. With the rear mounts compressed my shifter just vibrates about 1/4" side to side when running at idle and is still at road speeds.
 
#84 ·
Anyone wana make some mounts for me?

Hello I am new to 4BTSwap. I did a few searches on the forum and did not see anyone making custom engine mounts for sale for the 4bta swap into a cj7. I am working on this project for a year now and I am ready to put the engine in but I am scratching my head on the motor mount design. I have a little over a 4 inch lift so i dont think there will be a clearance issue. Would anyone be interested in making me some mounts for my project?
 
#85 ·
Hate to say it but there are no off the self mounts for a 4BT. That said you can probably figure out some sort of adapter perhaps using Chevy motor mounts that a number of other manufacturers sell. For example the flat Chevy mounts that AA sells, just the frame side, and call someone up to have them welded on.

That said, I think fabbing yourself or having someone you know with a welder doing it is the way to go. I borrowed a welder and used cut off wheels on my 4.5" grinder last time and fabbed them up myself as a relative novice and it turned out fine. This time I went and bought a welder and after considerable work on the car my fab skills are actually getting pretty good.... :grinpimp:

Cheers,
Andre
 
#86 ·
i have done the mounts for the cj7
the mounts are pretty simple...
i used the mounts from the p30 its basically a pocket...
put the motor and trans together and mount on the trans crossmember and
hang the motor from a engine crane to get the right spot....
i think i have some pics in my build up thread...
or might be here.
 
#90 ·
To the top for the guys talking about motor mounts..
 
#92 · (Edited)
#95 ·
I never thought of any safety feature.? I removed my AMC 360 in lou of a 4BT and just decided to mimick the original motor mounts in my CJ-7. I have no reason to believe that the mounts should tear, but I'm open to any input here.

Part number ... I don't know. But you can find them in any Jeep catalog or any good 4x4 shop.
 
#96 ·
Motor Mounts for a Ford

Has anyone tried using the 6bt mounts from Autoworl in Montana or from Fordcummins?

You guys that have repowered Fords, did you fab your own mounts or go another directions? I've been thinking about trying to fab a set for my '95 F-150, but I'd feel better going with some off the shelf ones if possible.
 
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