Fuel Shut Off Solenoid
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Thread: Fuel Shut Off Solenoid

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    Registered User The Bladesmith's Avatar
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    Default Fuel Shut Off Solenoid

    We had a spell of cold weather here in Oregon, and all of the sudden my truck did not want to start... Through much diagnoses I thought I might have had water in the fuel, so I swapped the fuel filter and waited for it to get warmer to thaw out the fuel solenoid. Turns out that the solenoid just completely quit working. Not only can I not find a replacement for under $100, but I can't even get in to pull the thing out.
    I guess I will get to the question now: Has anyone else had to replace one of these things? If so, how did you get it out? Mine is a VE pumped engine. There is a plate on the back of the injection pump that the throttle linkage connects to that is in the way. However, the one allen-head bold that I can get to is stripped and the others are not accessible. The only other option that I can think of is to pull the top of the injection pump off. I remember how much fun it was trying to get the governor spring to connect when the engine was on the ground. I am not overly eager to go that direction. Any suggestions would be very welcome.
    I understand that you can gut the solenoid and then just hook up a pull cable to the manual shut off. I am entertaining this option just to save the $100, but first I do have to get the M.F. solenoid out...
    1978 Scout Terra, SOA, 31" Tires, Cummins 4BT, NV4500HD, NP205, 3.54 Gears
    The Project Never Ends.

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    "A person can be smart, intelligent, ingenious. People... are stupid."

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    You can get one here dieselvw dot com. The website says there are out off stock an to call them.
    10+ 4.99 shipping. I got one from there a couple years ago and had it on the truck for 2 years before saleing it. On one truck I cut a little bit of the top part of the ve pump bracket right beside the solenoid with a die grinder and it came out easy with a 24mm or so wrench. Or you could take the top part of the pump off and get to it like that. On my truck now I just gutted it and used a choke cable for my shut off.

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    You can take the throttle linkage plate off. Its held on by three allen head bolts. Once it's out of the way, the solenoid it easier to get to.

    When mine went out two years ago, I gutted it rather than replace it. To do this, remove the solenoid from the VE pump and remove the plunger and the spring from inside the solenoid. Double check in the pump and solenoid that there's no debris and reinstall the solenoid. This will allow the engine to have fuel constantly. It'll operate the same as if you had a working solenoid, the only difference is that in order to shut off the engine, you'll have to manually stall it out. I've been doing this for two years now with no problem. Hope this helps.
    Great trucks aren't bought; they're built.
    I didn't screw up, I was practicing!!

    1995 F150 s/c, s/b, 5 spd, 4x4, stock 105hp VE-pump 4bt
    1997 F250 e/c, s/b, 5 spd, 4x4, stock 7.3

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    Registered User The Bladesmith's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice. I will be partially taking the top of the pump off today to see if that gets me enough room. If not I will probably have to break out the Dremel on the throttle linkage plate. I will post when I figure out what I am doing from there.
    1978 Scout Terra, SOA, 31" Tires, Cummins 4BT, NV4500HD, NP205, 3.54 Gears
    The Project Never Ends.

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    "A person can be smart, intelligent, ingenious. People... are stupid."

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    My bracket had 5 screws, 4 that held it on to the pump and one down lower for support. I nibbled off some of the corner to make future solenoid replacement easier.



    When the bracket was off it was easily accessible for my setup so I haven't tested out my bracket mod to see if it even makes a difference.



    I have been able to get it out with vice grips. Not the prettiest thing but it worked. Also don't forget to keep the o-ring on the solenoid if you decide to remove the plunger and use the cut-off lever to shut down the engine.

    For replacement I looked up a VW 1980's diesel application (bosch VE pumps) and found it at a local import place for less than $30.
    Last edited by boots4; 12-16-2010 at 01:39 PM.
    85 Landcruiser FJ60, 4BTA, Compounds, 4L80E Optishift controller, 203 doubler to splitcase tcase, SOA, 40s, other stuff.

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    Registered User The Bladesmith's Avatar
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    Well, I spent most of the day today working on the truck. I finally got the solenoid pulled, removed the plunger and spring, and re-installed the body of the solenoid. For some reason that I can't figure out, the engine still will not start. I pulled the solenoid out and had a friend turn the engine over. There was no fuel making it into the whole the solenoid is in. Then I pulled the fuel line off of the lift pump and checked that. The fuel is making it that far. I am going to pull the high pressure side of the lift pump off tomorrow and see if it is actually pulling fuel.
    Another thought: When I initially thought that it was water in the fuel, I replaced the fuel filter with another one from NAPA that was a little shorter but has a petcock. All of the other critical measurements are the same between the filters except for the length. Is there any way that the lift tube could be bottomed out in the filter and cutting off fuel? I am about at my wits end with this thing. Any advice would be appreciated.
    1978 Scout Terra, SOA, 31" Tires, Cummins 4BT, NV4500HD, NP205, 3.54 Gears
    The Project Never Ends.

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    "A person can be smart, intelligent, ingenious. People... are stupid."

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    Super Moderator / Administrator BobS's Avatar
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    Did you prefill your fuel filter when you replaced it?
    I have a hunch that your original filter iced up. Did you check it by warming it up and dumping it into a clear container to check for water? Did you remove your new filter and check to see if it's full of fuel?

    If you filter iced up there is a possibility that you ran your pump dry. Did the engine exhibit any signs of trying to fire from the beginning of this entire ordeal? Did it fire and miss followed by shutting down and failing to fire after that point?
    BobS
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    Here is the nitty-gritty of the story: I went out to see how the truck would start when it was below freezing. It fired very quickly and idled normally to begin with. After idling for about 30 seconds the idle speed began pulling down low. It stayed at that speed steadily so I dismissed it as the engine being cold. After I had finished de-icing the windows and such I got in and brought the RPM up to about 1100 to try to warm it up faster. It revved really had and did not want to hold a given speed. The RPM finally pulled too low and it died. After that it refused to start again. Here is a list of what I have done trying to fix it:
    -Replaced the fuel filter with the earlier described shorter one with a petcock. The filter was prefilled.
    -Removed the fuel shut off solenoid and replaced the solenoid body minus the plunger.
    -Checked that there is fuel to the lift pump.
    I am going to attempt to bleed the lines to the injectors, but I am not sure that I have enough battery power to finish the job.

    Thanks for the help. "When it rains, it pours..."
    1978 Scout Terra, SOA, 31" Tires, Cummins 4BT, NV4500HD, NP205, 3.54 Gears
    The Project Never Ends.

    -

    "A person can be smart, intelligent, ingenious. People... are stupid."

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    Default fuel problem

    You could have a suction leak. The engine would be hard to start, It could start then quit and often it will be low on power.

    If you don't see a leak you can pressurize sections of the line with shop air and see if the pressure drops, a spray bottle with soapy water can be usefull in pinpointing the leak once you narrow it down.
    1990 f150 4BTA, md50r2 3.50 gears.
    1991 Mitsubishi (fuso) FE flatbed 5 speed.

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    Registered User The Bladesmith's Avatar
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    Thanks for all of the help. As it turns out, my lift pump was bad as well. That explains why the engine was not starting even with the solenoid removed. Now I just have to track down a fuel leak that I have found...
    1978 Scout Terra, SOA, 31" Tires, Cummins 4BT, NV4500HD, NP205, 3.54 Gears
    The Project Never Ends.

    -

    "A person can be smart, intelligent, ingenious. People... are stupid."

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