89 Chevy 3+3 12 valve p pump CCSB build thread looking for feed back
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Thread: 89 Chevy 3+3 12 valve p pump CCSB build thread looking for feed back

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    Default 89 Chevy 3+3 12 valve p pump CCSB build thread looking for feed back

    I been looking on this site for a while since I started my cummins conversion on my chevy 1 ton 4x4 and figured it would be smart to start a build thread to help get some feedback from other experienced builders. Here is a few pictures of what I started with.

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    Just put on some 6" springs and trying to figure out the best way to mount these N-fab Suburban steps.
    20140731_191344.jpg

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    Default Seems like each swap I see is unique and I think mine will be not lacking n that area

    Had a few issues with the stroker so that is how my swap ended up getting started.
    20140901_125950.jpg

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    Got a 98 12 valve with a blown head gasket. So I resurfaced the head, put 60lbs springs on the exhaust, ARP head bolts, KDP is gone so I retigthened the timing cover bolts and set the timing at 18 deg. Picked up a 4K GSK and a Borg Warner S360 non waste gated turbo, changed the rear main seal and oil pan gasket.
    I would post a picture but I keep getting a message when I try.

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    You need the 60lbs. springs on the intake too with the 4kgsk.
    Most ppump 12v guys go somewhere around 14-16* of timing unless theyre building some sort of performance engine that isnt daily driven.
    The s360 doesnt sound all that appealing either.

    Nice truck, someone did a really nice job with the tpi SBC.

    Host your pictures on a picture uploading site like photobucket or pay for a membership.

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    shootracing22 (12-11-2014)

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    Thanks Hemi Challenger for the info. I am gonna give Photobucket a try. I hope I didnt make a mistake getting the s360. I was wanting a turbo a little better than stock and one that didnt run out of wind in the higher RPM range since this truck will be more of a lifted daily driver and pull a light trailer every now and then . I was debating between a ATS 3000 and a Industrial Injection s300G and ended up choosing this s360 because of the price and looking at what I could understand of the curve sheet it looked like it would pull hard on the higher Rpms and not be to laggy or allow me to put to much strain on the 2003 4l80e transmission that I am gonna run using a transtar billet piston low stall converter. This is first cummins and I still have quite a bit to learn. I am gonna double check my timing with dial indicator kit and back it down to 16.
    Last edited by shootracing22; 12-11-2014 at 06:34 PM.

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    For some reason it gives me a URL not found on when I try to attach my photo bucket photos. But I havnt given up yet and if all else fails I will check into a membership.

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    you tube video that got me motivated to start my build.

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    Default Motor mounts and cross member clearance

    Cross member clearance





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    PPG epoxy primer and black PPG urathane.


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    Very clean looking.

    Like you said try and keep as much tq down low off the 4l80. That turbo is capable of 450 hp possibly more. What HP was the 12v factory rated at?

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    Default Good time to shorten the frame

    Figured this is the best time to do a short bed conversion.









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    Bought a MRPB dual exhaust to modify for my build for a 2001 F250 V10 Gas since it was cheaper than the 7.3 by quite a bit but I was disappointed to see the muffler to be restrickted by having a agressive corrgated area that resticts it to about 3 1/2". Any suggetions on how to open up closer to 4" to flow better.


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    Hammer something 4" diam through it, just don't expect it to muffle worth a damn.

    Those corrugated louvers is how it works.

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    Really having a hard time to figure out what to do to be able to use my 2 small 16 gallon fuel tanks and after reading all the articles on the http://www.torkteknology.com/pages/Tek-Articles.html web page I am conveniced that I need at least a 1/2" fuel line or 5/8" and really leaning towards running a sump like shown in the video but still not sure if how to eleminate the selector valve to use both tanks. I have read a few post on this issue but still haven't seen a solid conclusion to the problem. I am leaning towards finding a larger selector valve or pumping the fuel from the left tank to the right by a switch and it seems to me that it would be in my best interest to remove the heater deal by the fuel pump and maybe go with a large 30 micron water seperator that will mount to the frame by the tank

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    Thats what I was thinking but wasnt sure which would be the best approach to either try to hammer something to open it or maybe geta 3 3/4" whole saw and extension and cut it out. I really didnt want a muffler but since the state law requires it I figured it was best to put on on it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shootracing22 View Post
    Figured this is the best time to do a short bed conversion.
    I was excited to see someone keep their factory 4door long bed at the beginning of this thread. I'll never understand the short bed fad thats been going on the last few years.

    Solid mounting the motor?

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    Originally Posted by HemiChallenger
    I was excited to see someone keep their factory 4door long bed at the beginning of this thread. I'll never understand the short bed fad thats been going on the last few years.

    Solid mounting the motor?
    It would have saved me a lot of work to leave it a long bed but I think the short bed fad is popular because a large percentage of all the new crew cab trucks are short beds and its neat since this was not a factory option plus a the better turning radius would be a plus. When the truck was a long bed I had a lot of issues with the drive shaft vibrating and had to shim the carrier bearing but it was never perfect.
    I am gonna run the Chevy motor mount with a energy susp isolators in it. I made my own mounts for the engine using some flat plate tubing and the original Chevy motor mount shells. This is a bad picuture but you can see the Energy Susp. motor mounts here which were a little challenging to get them in the Chevy motor mount shell.
    Last edited by shootracing22; 12-12-2014 at 05:36 AM.

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    On your turbo, one that many 12 valve owners seem to like is the Holset HE351cw that came on 2005-2007 Dodges. It has an electronic waste gate controller, but there is a plug that will transform that into a regular waste gate. Those can be found on the used market at a reasonable price. You may want to back the timing up a little. 18 deg is pretty aggressive. 1/2" fuel line is usually OK. I had read an article some time ago that showed 5/8" to be the best for a P7100. I believe that was being used with one of the aftermarket electric fuel pumps. You should be alright with either size. A lot depends on future performance plans. That's an extremely clean truck. You're making great progress.

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    Beautiful rig

    Run that turbo you got. It'll work well enough for you to get a feel for the truck with a diesel and you can change it up later down the road.
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    Buddy of mine did a 94(?) Chevy dually swap and when he redid his timing on his IP he bumped it up to 20 and now loves it. Mods are an upgraded h1c and 5x12 injectors.

    -vr4oaks

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    Quote Originally Posted by HemiChallenger View Post
    Very clean looking.

    Like you said try and keep as much tq down low off the 4l80. That turbo is capable of 450 hp possibly more. What HP was the 12v factory rated at?
    I looked on a forum about this and a 1998 with a auto tranny 12 valve should be a 180hp. Thanks, I am a stickler for trying to keep it clean and a few years after its built I plan on taking it back apart to paint all the small parts that are only getting rattled canned and at the same time paint the truck midnight blue inside and out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vr4oaks View Post
    Buddy of mine did a 94(?) Chevy dually swap and when he redid his timing on his IP he bumped it up to 20 and now loves it. Mods are an upgraded h1c and 5x12 injectors.

    -vr4oaks
    Thanks I read a few forums about timing. With running a higher like 18 deg timing I am guessing that I am running a higher risk on poping a head gasket but I am not sure it would affect the drivablity.

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    I run 18.5 on my truck and my buddies as well. helps keep the egts down. I have stock headbolts torqued to 130 never had a problem daily driver for the last 6 or 7 years. also running the stock hx35 with the wastegate unhooked. it tops out about 38 psi.
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    He's running about 30-40 psi depending on what he set his boost controller that day.

    -vr4oaks

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