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Discussion Starter #1
Okay so pull up good old craigslist thinking I'd find the same old 2 4bt's posted, both having the rotary pump :sick:. Well low and behold my eyes instantly feel in love and my heart dropped once I found one 20 miles away that is a P-Pump. Here's were the plot twists a little.....Spoke with the guy and he pulled it out of a gradall forklift, okay no issues there its not governed!. Looking at the engine ID Plate it is a CPL 1963. Was doing ALL my homework on the CPL 18(forgot the last two digits :ROFLMAO:). Any ways after some googling it can either be the P3000 or P7100 pump????? The guy did say it has 'some' blow by and bad compression, also said the turbo has been replaced at some point (which i agree with seeing how clean it is in the pics), also said there was no oil in the water and vice versa. All of which is no biggie mainly cause it was gonna get a full rebuild anyhow. He also said he has the SAE bellhousing which he'll throw in as well as another bellhousing from something? :unsure:

I do know once I take a look at it tomorrow early morning how to break down the ID tag on the pump to figure if its a P3000 or P7100 pump by this knowledge Thanks to
char1355 from another posting.
If you'll look at the Bosch ID tag on the pump it will tell you what it is. Also, what is the CPL on the Cummins ID plate. For example, CPL 1839 is a 130 hp with the P7100 injection pump for road use. On the Bosch ID plate there should be a number that read like this PES4P120A120RS7313. That translates as follows:

PES = Inline pump with flange mounting
4 = Number of plungers (4 cylinder pump)
P = Size of pump (P is the big one)
120 = Size of plungers (120 is 12 mm)
A = Version of the pump ( A is oldest, other letters newer)
120 = Code for location of feed pump and governor
R = Rotation of the pump (R is right or clockwise)
S7313 = Application series (This would be a 7000 series pump, in other words a P7100)


Things I can tell from the pics on Craigslist are: No visible oil runs down the side of the block, only oil run is right at the bottom of the water pump (so im thinking the timing cover seal is all), It IS a P-Pump, its a 4btaa, 3.9, manufacture date is 9/5/1997, re-main seal looks sealed still.

Okay FINALLY to the reason why I'm posting......Firstly I know what they go for, 2kish, he's got it posted for 1800 OBO. So gonna throw out 1300 as a starter number hoping to end at 1500. Secondly is the Pump its self....if it is the P3000 pump what are the down sizes and the up sides versus the P7100??? Thirdly, what else can you tell me about it that Im missing on :rolleyes:?. And Fourthly how easy is it to swap it to an cooler versus that water shit intake? Or is it worth keeping it and running that, honestly never looked into these water cooled versions much?

The build plan is to drop her in my Yota, that Toyota for those of you non toyo fans :ROFLMAO:, with a NV4500 bolted to the back and then a 205/203 doubler all powering a HP Dana 60 front and a 14 bolt rear end.

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CPL 1963 is the P3000 injection pump. Many of those P3000 engines were 130 HP but yours shows to be 116 HP. Slightly turned down. Governor on the injection pump should be an RQV which is the same type as a P7100. That is a normal highway type governor. You have a few parts missing but nothing major. The fan hub assembly and alternator bracket are gone. Injection pump shut down solenoid assembly is gone. Oil pan is in the front position.. it's reversible but you'll need a new pickup to make it rear and also move the dip stick to the rear position. You'll need a power steering pump of some type. Interesting it has the oil fill ported valve cover to the rear. There was probably some device mounted on that bracket mounted on the front of the intake cover that prevented having a front fill port. You can just remove that bracket and swap the valve cover positions. According to Quick Serve, the engine originally had a hydraulic pump adapter on the back of the front housing but yours only has the cover plate now. Never really know what condition it's in. Probably need a tear down and inspection. Replace gaskets, seals, and bearings. Do the KDP repair. Inspect cylinders for wear or damage. Same for the head. Probably replace the rubber hoses just to be safe. Might also replace the water pump and oil pump as a precaution. If you need any part numbers just let me know. All in all a fairly normal used engine. Good project material. You'll have to find you a flywheel, adapter plate, and starter for the NV4500. You ask about any down sides for the P3000. It's a very good injection pump, but it's not a P7100. Many of the mods you do for a P7100 will apply. Change the governor springs for a higher RPM, install a #10 fuel plate, and adjust the pump timing to around 16 deg. The water/air aftercooler setup has a few down sides. Since it shares the same coolant as the engine it doesn't remove as much heat as an air to air or a water air with a separate radiator and circulating pump. Not terrible but can be improved. Since it's a non running engine, get it as cheap as you can. Figure on spending at least $2000-3000 on it for parts and repairs. Can go higher depending on what you run into.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@char1355 firstly MUCH APPRECIATED for the info!!!!

So I did end up buying it, he had it posted for 1800 and well started at 1000 and ended up at 1300 for the engine. Then had to go to his house cause he threw in the bell housing it had, which i think is the SAE #2. THENNNN we started talking even more and he started offing every Cummins thing he had lyin around. So ended up leaving with an HE351Ve turbo fully in tacked with the manifold as well as the DPF units for the same truck. Also a fuel/water/heater filter unit, intake piping, and some other randoms I'm still figuring out. Anyways selling the turbo core probably for 400 bucks and one of the DPF units is right around 300 bucks according to a couple core dealer websites. Shipping ya is expensive however working for Fedex i get 50% off so :sneaky:. So after all that, fingers crossed those core pricing's are accurate, ultimately paid 600 for the engine.

Okay now for the nit-n-griddy part. I figure from my short homework time the night prior it was the P3000 which ehhhh not all that upset about. After all I really didn't want the other pumps. So running thru the list of stuff missing and rummaging thru the box of parts he didn't need. All that is missing is the shut down solenoid (but have all the bracketry),electric fans, power steering and a booster pump as well for my setup.

Will be flipping the oil pan so new pickup tube, also swapping the horrific and ugly cooler system back to a normal inner cooler so sourcing a new intake plate/elbow, radiator cooler, as well as a 5.9 exhaust manifold to cut and flip down the turbo, a new alternator, water pump, belt tensioner, thermostat and the fan belt assembly is all completed. The two fuel line clamps are missing for the rear two cylinder lines so needs a little homework done as to why those were removed?!?!?! also replace them.

Need to figure what starter mounts the bell housing he gave. Also have the fly wheel parts too. So I'll be bolting those up and test running it on the floor to see how it sounds before going ANY FURTHER. Once the test run is complete the bell housing is getting sold, thinking 150 bucks, so down to $450 for the engine. If its just the blow by then a complete engine tear down with all new seals/gaskets, bearings, pistons...the works as well as the head getting decked, pressure tested and valves re-done. Might get the block magnufluxed to check for cracks but doubt it has any after all the engine hour meter was in tacked on the tractor still showing only 1600 hrs. So figuring that translated to miles I'd say she only has 96,000 miles roughly. As for the blow by, fingers crossed that's the only internal issue, may have to go .20 over so then the entire block gets all the bells and whistles while at the machine shop.

Do you happen to know by chance what starter would work with this bellhousing???

So overall fairly satisfied as it is sitting and working out thus far.

WHAT ELSE AM I MISSING :unsure::unsure::unsure::unsure:
 

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OK. A couple of things. #1. The HE351ve wouldn't be practical for a 4bt. Has been tried. It doesn't work. That thing has an HX40 size compressor which is 2 sizes too big. If you bought the parts to resell then that's fine. The engine should have a HX30W turbo on it now which is light years better. That turbo can support to at least 200 HP or a bit more. The largest single turbo you'd want on that engine would be the Super HX30W. On the SAE bellhousing, is there a part number on it. These engine came in both SAE3 and SAE2. Starter is probably the same on both but it depends on which side of the bellhousing it's on. If you plan on selling the bellhousng , the flywheel and starter should go with it. I think that would sell for a lot more than $150. To determine which size housing you have, measure the bolt hole circle. 16 7/8" is SAE3 and 18 3/8" is SAE2. If it's the one that originally came on the engine is should be part 3931627 and the flywheel is part 3914431/3914432 which is SAE3. Starter motor should be part 3916854. Price on that part will depend on whether you buy a genuine Delco Remy unit or a cheap clone. The Delco part number for the stock 28MT starter is 1113276 which is obsolete and an upgrade to a 31MT is 61005265 which costs in the $300 range. There are now adapter bellhousings to mate a NV4500 to SAE. Not super cheap but might keep that in mind. Also, if you're just installing the flywheel temporarily you might use used bolts but I'd get new one for the final setup. Those bolts torque to a very high setting. When placing the engine on a stand, do not attach the stand to the engine adapter plate. Good recipe for having the engine fall. 750 lbs of cast iron landing on your foot is not a happy experience. On the shut down solenoid, you may be able to control that manually if you wish. Can be done with a simple pump shut down cable like used on farm tractors or military trucks. About $12 at Tractor Supply. It you have the mounting bracket, the solenoid part is 3932545 which is easy to find. You would also need a relay to feed that unit. Takes a lot of current to energize it but only a few amps to keep it open.
 

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Oh no no...I got the HE341VE turbo and DPF filters for free!!! LOL The guy was throwing free stuff at me and I had a half empty truck bed so why not. LOLOL Thought I could take the turbo and use it to make one of those turbo charged 55 gallon burn cans. But turns out I'm getting 400 bucks for turning turbo in for a core and the two DPF filters am getting $340 bucks. So already down to 560 for the engine. Win win!!!

Probably just gonna run the HX30W as it looks already replaced, may rebuilt it which is 50 bucks and super easy. The shaft doesn't seem to have any play either and the fins look good.

So as per your measurements it is the SAE3 bell housing and the starter is on the Driver side of the housing. Really just thinking of an extra cheapo starter. Really just wanna hear it run before opening it up you know. Might drop the oil pan before starting and just look over the crank and connecting rods and see if the cylinders are scratched any before causing any more potential harm. But YES once I'm re-assembling it for my own use to drop in EVERYTING is getting replaced especially bolts and nuts, all holes getting chassed and everything. LOL Know I've gotta do some looking around to see how much there going for.

I have done some homework and asking around for mating the NV4500 up and a certain dodge year range bellhousing works all except one of the holes isn't in the bellhousing but it can be drilled out and utilized. And with my year NV4500 the front bearing retainer will need to be re-machined a little and a longer shaft installed, all easy stuff. Not to sure if I wanna go Engine>SAE>Bellhousing>Tranny just cause that SAE housing would add an extra 4ish inches to the entire length. But might work for better fitment and additional mounting places. Will keep it in mind though.

As for the shut down solenoid that's something id definitely want even for the test run. Wondering if I could do it manually tho or is there way to much resistance in the pump??? May just go the amazon route and get one use it then return it until i need to order the one I'm actually going to run....you now that free return stuff on amazon comes in handy HAHAHA

So biggest question really is what's the cheapest starter I could toss on there for the SAE housing...and i mean the absolute cheapest cheapest one? HAHA
 

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You say your starter is on the driver's side of the adapter plate. That is reversed from what came on that engine. Below is a photo of the original unit on that engine. The adapter plate with the driver's side starter isn't very common. Not sure if it can use the same starter. I'll do a bit of looking. Is there a part number on the adapter plate? That HE341ve is a very expensive turbo. Rebuilt units sell for around $2500. Which NV4500 do you have? There are about 4 different models. The early GM '93-94 is a real odd ball. Different bolt pattern and bearing retainer. The '95 up GM has the same case as the Dodge Cummins NV4500. You can swap the Dodge input shaft and bearing retainer and use Dodge Cummins adapter plate and flywheel or an SAE3 setup with that one. Output shaft on that one is 32 spline for 4x4. Dodge also had 2 models. The Cummins model has a 1-1/4" input shaft and a 29 spline output. The Dodge small block gas unit has a 1-1/8" input shaft. There's even a 1-3/8" aftermarket HD input shaft for the Cummins that allow you to use the 13" clutch form the NV5600.
 

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Well after triple checking it is on the driver side. See pics. Also found a good ID # as well. Now you've got me wondering what starter will work?!?!?! REALLY wanna test run it before taking anything apart from it. Also double checked my pulley system and it seems the fan pulley is sitting high and to the right. Its obvious were it use to bolt up to but that exact bracket went onto the motor the guy bought so curious which bracket I'd need to mount the fan pulley to so its located correctly.

Might put the turbo up on craigs for a bit then, after all it is still a good turbo with no slop or play and fins are in good shape. If not core it is, just don't really wanna deal with it after all.

I've got the 94 Chevy so yea its the odd ball one, but I wanted the granny low firstly since its going in a rock crawler and secondly I got it for free as well when I bought then entire truck for 500 bucks and parted the whole thing out. Originally bought it for the rear axle but then after i looked underneath and there was sitting the NV4500, was a surprise for sure. But yes front bearing retainer will need some work and the front shaft will need the dodge version to make it work. I did see just the other day on craigs a 95 i believe NV4500 with the dodge bell-housing and the adapter with the NP205 that Ill also be using, but funds for the minute are tied up in the 4bt until I can sell the LS6.0 that I was originally gonna use HAHAHAH. I'd so be willing to take the higher gear just cause he was only asking like 1200 for it all. and well I still got mine for free so sell mine for 1000 and call it all good. HAHA.

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OK. You have the exact same adapter plate I have a photo of. The starter for that unit may be the same as the ones on the opposite side. The bolt pattern is the same but the solenoid unit would be upside down. Might try sending a PM to member CrewCab59 at Tennessee Diesel Conversions. He is a Cummins dealer. If we had an engine that had that adapter on it we could look on Quick Serve. On the fan hub assemblies, there are quite a few of them. The one that originally came on your engine has the fan in a low position offset to the driver's side. That was the standard mount on most of the road use 4bts. Below is a photo showing the hub in that position. Fan pulley is held in place by 4 8mm bolts in a 50mm circle. The Dodge Cummins hub from '94-02 is much the same except the center hub has 6 bolts and provision for a screw on fan clutch. See The 91.5-93 Dodge used a similar hub only the fan is in the center of the block, not offset and does not stick out as far. Uses a special pulley to keep the belt in proper alignment. That one is not common and quite expensive when you find one. See 2nd photo which shows it compared to the regular hub. Cummins commercial engines often had a high mount fan hub which is bolted to the head instead of the block. There were even several styles of those. the commercial hub has 4 10mm bolts in a 60mm circle. See photo #3. This is just a few. There were many more. On the transmission, what adapter plate did you plan on using? On the early GM NV4500, the easiest would be the 4bt GM adapter and flywheel. Direct bolt on using the standard GM bellhousing on the transmission. See photo below. I said easy but not cheap. Around $1000 for used parts. You wouldn't want to know what new ones would cost. Not sure you could mount that early transmission to a Dodge setup without some work. May not be enough metal in the Dodge bellhousing to bore for bolts. Would also have to change the input shaft. It has been done but a good bit of work. The later transmission could be adapted to the Dodge parts or even use the SAE3. On the transfer case, which model NP205 were you planning? Driver's side or passenger's side drop?
 

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I'll shoot him a message...thanks.

As for the fan assembly I have the high mount as you attached in pic #3 above. That one will work fine as I was planning on running electric fans anyhow to cut down and save some room in the event I have to mount the motor more forward thus not having to cut into the fire wall any. By utilizing the high mount and adding an AC unit I'm sure they have belting in the correct length for that specific set up. So shouldn't be any issues there.

As for adapting to the tranny I haven't done terribly all that such homework yet as switching engine idea came up not more then 3ish months ago and been looking here and there. But most likely not using a SAE housing and going with an adapter plate to bellhousing to tranny type setup. For the Dodge bellhousing matting up with my year tranny 'I Think' there is an ear on the tranny or on the bellhousing that just needs to be drilled and tapped to be able to utilize every mounting mount available between the two. The plan was to us an LS 6.0 to the NV4500 which adapter and bellhousings were around 1000 bucks as well. So was sorta already expecting that. And yes mounting a 94 chevy tranny to the dodge does take some work but I think for the extra idk 300 bucks its worth the granny low gear for my application.

For the transfer case I'm using a NP205/203 doubler configuration. going forward to a 79 Ford HP60 which is a driver drop. The NP203 is out of the same 79 ford and the NP203 is out of a 78 Chevy blazer.
 

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Do you meant the NP203 is from the Chevy and NP205 from the Ford? The GM transmission should have a 32 spline output which should mate to the GM transfer case. Sounds like you're going to be crawling around big time. Where do you plan to put your AC compressor? One thing you have to consider with a turbo diesel is it doesn't make all that much power if it isn't stressed. Turbo boost comes on when there is a demand and fuel is added to increase power. With your extreme gear reductions you may not see a significant amount of boost. Not like a gas engine. Diesels conserve fuel produce power when needed. Especially noticeable on a Cummins which is a high torque engine. Full torque usually hits around 1700-1800 RPM and starts dropping beyond 2000 RPM.
 

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Might have been the other way around, going off of some older notes for those. And yes BIG TIME CRAWLING!!! Rubicon, Fordyce are both an hour away from where I live LOL. Not all to sure which compressor exactly but I did pull the one off the LS and still have the lines and condenser as well. May also use the stock Toyota one too, just make a bracket for it not sure yet there.

As for the turbo I know the next smaller one goes on with a mounting adapter which will spool up on lower RPMs. Which will probably be needed for the crawling aspects. As well as ensure the AC pump is spinning fast enough. Also axles are getting complete rebuilds and new gearing of my choosing so I have some room to play there and also could also change some in the transfer cases or tranny potential. So theirs room to still get the crawl ratios and have the RPMs a bit higher up. Not worried about fuel consumption really, the most it'll have to run is three days and thats once a year. The rest of the trips are day runs. Then again I do enjoy that SKINNY PEDAL!!!!!!!

Anyhow very much appreciate all the time and detailed info. I'll forsure be hiting you up again down the road. Now time for that starter :confused:
 

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The reason I mentioned the transfer cases in that order was that the Ford NP205 had driver's side drop. Dodge and GM were both passenger's side. Also, the NP203 that came behind a TH400 would have the 32 spline input that matches the 32 spline output of your NV4500. Of course the GM NP205 also had the 32 spline input when it came behind the TH400. Seems like the typical setup puts the 203 in front of the 205.
 

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See now you got me all turned around LOLOL. I remember i pulled the front axle from the truck and then realized it had the 205 so i kept it. So yes its a driver side drop which is perfect cause there is no intake piping on that side...atleast not down low. As for the 203 out of the blazer I only need the front half of that unit and was gonna be swapping the shafts in both the 203 and 205 to much stronger alloy shafts. So matching to the NV4500 completes that portion. And yes it goes tranny to 203 to 205. Bascially 203 is put it to cut the gearing in half also by modifying the shifter shafts a smidge you can engage the front axle and not the rear or vice versa or run both. Front digs for those tight turns or step lips that need to be climbed.
 

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So went to the Caterpillar dealership here to get an oil analysis kit, figured why not since its only 10 bucks and will tell me a bit of history and possible current issues with the engine. Then while leaving Napa was right next door so ran in there for something else and ended up asking about the starter and well ordered one. They dug thru a couple books until they found the B Series Cummins section and specifically for the 3.9 engine and there only differences were really if it was a wet or dry clutch by there book. But obviously its a dry clutch that I've got. Snapped a pic of there book but we'll see today if the starter will bolt up and the throw is correct. Then literally backed my truck out and noticed the Cummins dealership right next door to that and ran in there. They pulled the serial number up and confirmed that it was a SAE#3 bellhousing that came with my engine. Unfortunately when I asked if they have which adapter plates mount up to it and what the bolt patters are of those plates, so I can quickly know which plate and bellhousing will actually work with my tranny. Also was sorta curious if my engine was sleeved or not and they said that it was not HOWEVER they did say that i CAN be sleeved, so IF there is more then .20 over bore wear on the cylinders might just be sleeving it. So that's definitely a relief.

Also looked over the engine a bit more closely yesterday too and well the dip stick tube had a piece of pipe basically put on to bring it up higher and the stock dip stick the guy gave me is one of the short stubby ones. So I removed the tube extender sleeve that was on and the stubby tube shaft that's on the block end is either an adapter to push on an actually dipstick tube of the correct length cause when I put in this stub stick it shows WAYYYYYY overfilled on oil, the oil does not look or smell milky or like fuel. So keeping my fingers crossed that the tube needs another piece added so the stick sits at the correct level. Also when i push in the stick current i can hear and feel it going all the way to the bottom of the an as well as hitting something half wayish in......wondering if my engine has a balancer/girdle or something else in there. So can not wait to drop the pan and finally get eyes on stuff.
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Sounds like you've got a good plan. Don't bank on dollar amounts from the used parts you got. Hopefully you get plenty for them, but core buyers don't usually pay that much.Used to be there were so many HE351VE turbos on the core market that Dodge dealers were sending drop box loads of them to the scrapyards. Then of coarse the scrapyards were selling them out the backdoor for cash.

If you're not running a mech fan just don't run the extra idler. you don't need it and the engine will be quieter and belt will track better without it.

One bit of caution is to budget a little extra when you rebuild a P-pump engine. 4BT's generally aren't pulled from perfect running equipment and sold. They get run into the ground way more often than not. I have witnessed brand new ones get installed and never, ever get the oil changed until the machine is sold.

Guys think that it's great that a P-pump is lubed by engine oil, well, sure, if folks actually changed it. Reality is most P-pumps with some time on them are hammered inside. VE pumps are dirt simple and anyone with a mostly functioning brain can take one all the way down, figure out what went wrong, put it all the way back together and have a nice running pump. You aren't going deep in a P-pump without a calibration stand and Bosch training/info. Pump shops sure don't cut you a break for owning a P-pump either.
 

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Trust me I wasn't planning on bank rolling from the core's, but 400 shipping included for the turbo and 380 shipping included for the DPF filters ehhh isn't bad. Just runs the price I paid for the engine down is all. LOL

One less part overall with taking out the 'extra' pulley umm sure....done! Honestly didn't even think of not running it but I dont see any issues with not running it.

As for them being ran into the ground believe me I know what you mean. So plan of attack is first fire her up on the floor for one minute tops, just wanna see how much blow by she has and if there are any knocks or off sounds. Then pull my oil sample and send that off. Also will do a compression test with injectors in then without any injectors in. Then the starter i got for 150 bucks is getting returned :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: . Then can finally drop the pan and get a lot better eye on it and decide the plan from there. Fingers crossed that I can run the engine as is for a bit, maybe replace the rings, and then run the engine as is while I mock and build the rig up. Once everything is mocked up then the engine gets pulled and fully rebuilt for sure at that point. But would be nice to throw a couple bucks at it and make it run for like a couple more 100 hours till I know the tranny rebuilt, doubler build, front and rear axle complete rebuilds and 4 link suspension all work flawlessly.

One other big stupid mistake I made was with the dipstick pipe I cut it all off cause it didn't seem right part, plus the stick i got with the engine is a stubby one. SO I went to the Cummins dealer today and the priced the correct tube and dipstick for 140 bucks......dont think I walked out of there without some measurements. Gonna shop around or just make one the right length and call that good.

Once I figure the next course of action for the engine is to find an adapter plate and bell housing. Really would be nice if there wear bolt hole diagram measurements somewhere of all the adapter plates.
 

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On the oil dip stick, there were several options. Most don't use the short stick because it's not handy to reach when the pan sump is in the rear position. The correct short dipstick is part 3904294 should you want to go that route. Around $50 for that little critter. The higher mounted stick consists of the following parts. The block insert tube is 3279104. You have that part now but may not be able to salvage it when you move to the rear position. The next part in line is the rubber tube 3905799. There is a clamp to keep it in place on the block insert 3909395. Next up is the top metal insert 3905802. Then the top brace that secures it to the head 3905804. That part gets bolt 3925883 and nut 3900240 to clamp the tube to the brace. The brace attaches to the outside bolt on the intake plate using the existing bolt. You need expansion plug 3900955 to fill the hole where the tube was removed. Last part in the puzzle is the dipstick part 3933364. Here is the diagram of that setup. And no, it isn't cheap. Good luck on trying to find a make shift replacement. On the idea of doing band aid patches on the engine every so often, that can really come back and bite you. One part going bad can sometimes have a cascade effect and mess up other parts. If you're going to the trouble of replacing rings then you'll have most of the engine apart. Go ahead and replace the main and rod bearings. They aren't expensive. You will need new rod bolts. Cummins does not recommend reusing those. Probably replace the piston oil squirters. They often come in a rebuild gasket kit. Do the killer dowel pin repair. Replace front and rear crank seals. Replace all the other normal gaskets. If you plan on any injection pump mods, it may best to do them now but can be done later so that will be your call. Doing the new rings mean deglazing the cylinders. If the tolerance isn't correct that means a rebore and new pistons and rings. During all this you need to check the block and head surfaces for flatness. If they need to be cut that may require a different head gasket depending on how much piston is sticking out the top of the block. When you go to put is back together you might consider using head studs instead of bolts. Not mega expensive. Will require a machining operation to the rocker stands for clearance, While it's apart have the injectors tested for pop pressure. If they are OK then no problem. If not you either rebuild those or swap them for rebuilt units. Having injectors properly matched makes for a better running engine. For anything up to 200 HP or a bit more you don't need any injectors larger than stock. Also, check the turbo for play. If that's an HX30W, I can send you a link to a rebuild manual that show all the tolerances, Rebuilding a turbo isn't all that hard should it be necessary. On your plan to test the engine, you don't want to run it without coolant for more than about 20-30 seconds.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Duly noted on all the dipstick notes. I'll have to figure out something once I get an idea of the shape of the internals. But might be bale to build my own with one of the cut to length custom ones they put it hot rods and stuff, all sorta on the back burner for right now. Only really curious if the amount of oil in it is currently sitting at the correct level or if its low or way to high. In the mean time I'm keeping my eye out for someone parting out a 5.9 and I'll just grab that but who knows.

For this so called 'band aid patch' lol which I didn't mean in any way to short anything on the rebuild but rather just to get the engine by another 100 hours at MOST is all I was referring too. All though the guy did say he drove it into the garage and sounded fine just the owner wanted the engine rebuilt. OHHHH and also he was saying that they were having to start it on ETHER, which I know is hard on diesels, then again I do live where it snows and the winter just ended so might have just been there own stupidity. Except a diesel that requires ether to start I'm not sure what that's a sign of....just guessing but maybe poorer then needed compression to ignite such cold fuel and metal, not to sure there.

But as for the actual 'REBUILD' the entire engine will be gone thru, check for cracks on the block and the valve seats as there known to crack, new bolts all around and everything else. With the turbo being rebuilt and yes it has the HX30W currently, but also may run a little smaller one to gain a faster spool up there for creating low end power sooner. Which is best in a crawler. She'll hardly see the pavement so freeway speeds are not of concern here. May simply buy new injectors as there fairly cheap but again we'll see once we get to that point.

And really nothing longer then a dry coolant run of more then 30 seconds????? Then again all I wanna see is the blow by number one and the overall sound and see the throttle response and tha'ts ALL. after that no more fuel being put in it and just spinning to test compression is all.
 

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On the oil level, these things hold 10 qts. Oil is pretty high in the pan. If you dip stick wasn't the proper short one it would read over full. The original dip stick setup on your engine was the parts I gave you except the front pan arrangement didn't show the little brace that attached the tube to the head like the rear setup. The use of ether or starting fluid is not a problem so long as you know what you're doing. Many Cummins 4bts used in Case industrial applications used that system for cold weather starts. There were two other cold starting aids. One is the electric grid heater on the intake plate. Works fine but takes a lot of battery power. The other is called thermostart. That system has an electric device that installs in the intake area with a small diesel fuel tank feeding it. It basically builds a fire in the intake. Very common on farm tractor diesels. They are cheap and use far less battery power to operate. If the engine is in good shape it will start down to around 20 deg F without any aid. The electric heater units were more of a smog control item and not always needed to start the engine. On the turbo, I can understand the situation of crawling unit. Might try it with the current turbo first to see how it performs. The HX30W on your engine has the 40mm inducer on the compressor section which was the smallest on that turbo. It also should have the 6cc turbine housing which was also the smallest on that turbo. Those 2 combinations will make it boost very fast. The one possible upgrade would be an HE221W. That one would boost lightning quick but will require some mods to install. How much boost you get out of the turbo will depend on engine operating speed and load. If you need to run the engine for more than a very short time, rig up a temporary cooling system. You'll want he water pump and other belt driven parts in place so the pump works.
 
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