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1936 Dodge 1-1/2

11275 Views 80 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Up North Tractors
I am finally going to start the build on 36 dodge. Seen as though we can't go anywhere and the shop is closed down. And I have gotten tired of looking for the diamond t truck I wanted. Time to start, I got an 05 workhorse step van with a 3.9ISB. I have been on it for about 2 weeks. Today I was fitting the engine in the frame, it's like putting 10 pounds of potatoes in a 5 pound sack. here is some pictures of the tear down.
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Nice looking old truck. Yes, some of those older ones have engine bays that are long enough but tend to be on the narrow side. You can keep the snow. I'm ready for summer. LOL.
Nice Dodge truck, Dodges have long engine compartments for their 6 cyl. Engines, helpful for a diesel.

Ed in CO.
Well this is going to be where the engine sits. You can see the engine sticking out on each side. It is going to have to go on a diet. That I can make just fit. But the steering has go me stumped right now. I though the pump at the back of the engine would be a + with the V shaped hood. I can't get the engine any lower because of the axle. Next week narrow the front axle if I can find the right rotors. Build the engine mounts if I can get some steel, there closed, and order the front springs.
I have had enough snow also.
A 10 year new truck I call bubble fenders would have a lot more room under the hood, lesson learned.
Thanks guys.
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You can sort of see what I meant by the width issue. You could probably rig up a high mount for the alternator but that won't cure the other side. May need to check that power steering pump depending on what steering gear you use. Those often have higher pressure because they were used with a tie rod assist system on those heavy duty vans. Have you given any thoughts for an intercooler? That engine would have had one and it's pretty much necessary.
On my '37 GMC(similar configuration) I was able to plumb the I'cooler by using a tall, narrow core with feed and exit from underneath in front of water radiator.

Ed in CO.
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On the intake side the european version of this engine uses a different intake manifold that will bolt right on it looks like it is about an inch closer to the engine. I think that will be enough, if not make a intake from scratch. I am going to use the pump that is on it because of the hydroboost brakes. It had a conventional steering box but a big one, so I have a bunch of ideas but non I like. It is going to be hard to keep it inside the body. I was worried about pump pressure also. As for the intercooler it looks like like the one that edpruss used is the very one I been looking at. That is what I would call a bubble fender, because the inside edge doesn't touch the frame, it has room to pass things through. I got plenty of room the tubes would come out the bottom. The bigger problem is the radiator It is only a single row. It doesn't look like enough. But worse then that is my hood ornament is the radiator cap and I have a good one on the shelf. I think it's cool but when you take it off and on it will scratch the hell out of the paint. What to do? I have been worried about the frame rather I should box the frame. Then today I was straghing up some of the damage on the frame and it is made of nothing. This truck will be used for delivering tractors and trailers. It will be towing goosenecks also. By the end of tomorrow I have to decide what to do. My original plan was to put a Diamond T body on a late model chassis. Then my daughter bought me this truck for fathers day. These V noise bodys don't fit well on a chassis with straight frame rails. Edpruss your truck looks good I wish mine was that far along. sorry for being so long winded.
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I also moved the steering box ahead of the fender support, outside the frame, used a Saginaw box with fore and aft movement, just like original. Kind of busy but works OK.

Ed in CO.
On the radiator, you may be OK because the 4bt is very heat efficient. Your radiator is probably decent sized for the old in line 6. If you had to, a radiator shop could possibly recore the old one for you.
On the radiator, you may be OK because the 4bt is very heat efficient. Your radiator is probably decent sized for the old in line 6. If you had to, a radiator shop could possibly recore the old one for you.
After pondering the frame and adding up sandblasting and boxing, I think I am going to replace the rails with square tubing. I was only keeping 2 of the cross members anyways. Just waiting on steel.
I bet you pasted the that steering shaft that over the frame under the fender. My fenders lay right on top of the frame. Something going to have to change on mine but I like the same thing. The shackles are at the front of my springs. If I move the steering box in front of the axle I can move them to the rear of the spring. I think that makes for a better ride.
The radiator is copper also, and it's in good shape. If I recore U.S.Radiator have got a really slick core of their own design I was looking at.
Yes, moving the shackles to the rear makes for a better ride, changes the caster angle of the front axle. My steering shaft goes through middle of fender.

Ed in
I think I got a steering set up worked out, if I can find all the parts at the right price. The box will be behind the axle tho. I will decide forsure when I set the cab on again. Is your truck a fire truck?
Yes, fire truck, however, running gear same as civilian.

Ed in CO.
My steel didn't show up on friday. I don't know when it will. So I am at a stand still. I am looking for this manifold for 3.9 ISB. I know it is on the european version. If anyone has one or a part number could you let me know.
Well, may be your lucky day. I have 3 ISBe engines on my Quick Serve. The first 2 I checked have the same intake as your engine. The 3rd one has that style you're looking for. I'll give you the part numbers in the order they appear on the diagram. Some of the parts like bolt you may reuse but I'll list them anyway. This part was on a ISBe 4.5 but I assume it should bolt to the 3.9 head.
I suspect you may need smelling salts when you price this creature.

1. 2830693 Intake Manifold
2. 3901446 Flange head bolt M8x1.25x60 1 required
3. 3918109 Flange head bolt M8x1.25x25 6 required
4. 4894046 Plain flat washer 1 required
5. 4894048 Plain flat washer 2 required
6. 4894727 Engine Heater
7. 4895488 Lock Nut 3 required
8. 4896355 Retainer Cover 2 required
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Thanks! I haven't been able to get that Quick Serve to work. When we call on the part will check on that to. I am afraid you are right about the smelling salts. But I need that inch or so to get the hood to close. Spent half the day looking for leaf springs, got a call that said my steel will be in on friday, O-boy. Then the wife came into the shop and said the refrigerator just quit, I need a grand. I could just feel my build down shift.
Well, that's just life. I did a bit of searching on that manifold and found virtually nothing. It does fit the 3.9 but it's strange there are no listings anywhere. I even double checked the part number to be sure I had it correct. That part number just seems out of line for an engine that new. The intake heater had plenty of listings. I guess those get replaced on a regular basis. Around $200 for that part. I suspect that intake is mainly an overseas part. A Cummins store would be able to give you a price and call the EMT's after you pass out. If you check at Cummins, the serial number I found it on is 21539204 and option number IM9736-01 and was dated 30 May 2002.
The cummins garage I use had no parts man in today. I first seen this manifold on that 3.9 compound turbo Steed Dolan built then he took it off and fabricated his owen. It's on here somewhere or youtube. I have looked everywhere also, they are on the south America trucks also just not ours. It seems that the their trucks are a little more compact. The exhaust manifold has the turbo on top and the exhaust runs right next to the oil filter. The alternators are tucked in a little titer. Must be because of all the cabover trucks.
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