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Discussion Starter #1
Picked up two 1959 chevys in the last 2 weeks. When it rains it pours... Now I'm broke. This is the better of the two cars that will get restored/modified. The other will have to be kept as a parts car until this one is where I want it. This is a long term thread. I will be tearing into this thing once work slows down. First thing will be to clean, clean and clean some more. Cars been sitting 35 years or so. I got it from the original owner too.







 

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Discussion Starter #3
Remember one of those cars was 40 years old at the time of the test. Note the plume of rust dust. Lets see how the 09 malibu fares in 40 years. Head on we both know which car would win. But the offset head on is the the most dangerous and common.

X frame cars have their issues but they can be fixed/made better.
My plan is a stock suspension stock looking 10sec. daily driveable (93 premium or e85) car. Probably turbo ls or 4200 straight 6.
Factory style 15" wheels and all the trim. Gonna have to paint it the original colors to because they look great. But thats a long way off.

No oil burner in sight.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Should look like this color wise or real close:



Looks like this car was right in my backyard in 2012:


The original colors on my car are (Upper) Crown Sapphire Metallic (Lower) Snowcrest White like the car pictured.
 

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I actually liked the 59's in my younger days when I was a teenager. There were plenty of them setting on used car lots. A local friend's Dad had a car lot. They had one with a 348 and a paxton supercharger.

In the early 70's I seen a lot of these that were totaled in the wrecking yard where I worked. Most were from light to moderate front end collisions.

In today's world I think I personally would avoid them primarily due to the X type frame. The only exception would be a first year ElCamino. If I were to drive one today I would try to find a way of bracing the X frame from the front end to the back end frame locations. That would prevent the front end twisting the frame sideways in a frontal collision.

Good luck in your project!
 

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I own a low mile 59 belair 2 door. 58k on the od. 6 cylinder 3sp with O.D. I need to free up some time and money and start restoring mine. It is in the dry, waiting. 15 years ago you couldnt give a 59 away... today they are up there with the tri-fives in value.... I guess the population had a change of heart.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I own a low mile 59 belair 2 door. 58k on the od. 6 cylinder 3sp with O.D. I need to free up some time and money and start restoring mine. It is in the dry, waiting. 15 years ago you couldnt give a 59 away... today they are up there with the tri-fives in value.... I guess the population had a change of heart.
Good to hear

I actually could find 55-58 and 60-64 cars easier and cheaper in the conditition I was looking for. ZERO 59's. I looked at 3 in 3 years and purchased 2. I called on several others and they wanted 8K for cars that still needed a TON of work barley driveable, if at all.

In today's world I think I personally would avoid them primarily due to the X type frame. The only exception would be a first year ElCamino. If I were to drive one today I would try to find a way of bracing the X frame from the front end to the back end frame locations. That would prevent the front end twisting the frame sideways in a frontal collision.
59 was the first yr. el camino and 60 was the last year sedan delivery.

The x frames have their limitations, but with a little work can be made safe and strong. I plan on trying what you describe, especially because a turbo is planned for the future so exhaust routing shouldnt be of great concern.
Look at all the low rider guys. Most of x frame cars run factory frames without bracing like you describe but with reinforcements on the factory frame. I have experience reinforcing the frame and control arm mounts on a friends '62 550hp 5spd. as well.

Today I got my car off the trailer and all cleaned out. I tried to snap some pics but my phone wasnt cooperating.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
From today. Didnt do much today but after much reflection decided on a direction to take for the short term. Basically get the brakes and suspension and floor boards up to snuff with a el-cheapo engine and get it on the road. Tear it all apart and do rear 1/4's and all the frame modifications and other stuff down the road when my funds allow.









 

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Discussion Starter #11
Donor engine and trans arrived today.

2000 4.8/nv-3500. 130k miles. Super clean. 2nd owner truck. You can see how I got it cheaply. Been back and fourth with the guy for a couple weeks. It didnt sell for what he wanted and just said you seemed most interested, come get it for 800 tonite.

Its no 6.0 ls with a turbo but it should be fun with a cam and still get good mpg.
 

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Donor engine and trans arrived today.

2000 4.8/nv-3500. 130k miles. Super clean. 2nd owner truck. You can see how I got it cheaply. Been back and fourth with the guy for a couple weeks. It didnt sell for what he wanted and just said you seemed most interested, come get it for 800 tonite.

Its no 6.0 ls with a turbo but it should be fun with a cam and still get good mpg.
http://lt1swap.com

For harness work and tuning. And if your wondering what a little 4.8 can do Turbo chevy 4.8 at the drag strip: http://youtu.be/QBAiz8686iw

-vr4oaks
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
2.2 OMG! Yeah hes very close. What rear gear?

I tried several things on my s10 that worked. Slapper bars that were extended to meet the front spring mount, still was tweaking my springs. The slapper bars would always bottom out with our terrible roads here. Then I tried pieces of 1/4" steel plate clamped (3 times) forward of the axle to the front of the spring. That worked great for me, but my truck was lowered and the springs were almost flat. Pulled consistent 1.80 60ft.s at the track (with a 12" lock up converter that would only flash to 2700), rode like stock and didnt hit the tires super hard on the street so even with some wheel spin it would move out.
 

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2.2 OMG! Yeah hes very close. What rear gear?

I tried several things on my s10 that worked. Slapper bars that were extended to meet the front spring mount, still was tweaking my springs. The slapper bars would always bottom out with our terrible roads here. Then I tried pieces of 1/4" steel plate clamped (3 times) forward of the axle to the front of the spring. That worked great for me, but my truck was lowered and the springs were almost flat. Pulled consistent 1.80 60ft.s at the track (with a 12" lock up converter that would only flash to 2700), rode like stock and didnt hit the tires super hard on the street so even with some wheel spin it would move out.
10.74 1000ft, 106.31 1000 mph, 12.58 1/4, 114.77 1/4 mph. I don't know what rear gear he's running but I think with a converter about 16 psi and water/meth and traction he'll run 10's

-vr4oaks
Turbo chevy 5.3: http://youtu.be/gFqKxWS9qkA
This was back when it had a 5.3 in it.
 
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