Yes Sir.
1964 Chevy C10 with Isuzu 4BD1/2T
I know this site seems to be primarily about conversions for 4X4 trucks, but you have all been a lot of help to me and I wanted to share what I have been building to say thanks. It's a 1965 Chevy C10 that belonged to my wife's grandfather. This is how it looked When we recovered it in 2016, literally 15 minutes after we pulled from under the tree. It had been sitting under a tree since he died in 1988.
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After Disassembly and a lot of work, we got the chassis rebuilt with front spindles and disk brakes from a 1972 3/4 ton.
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It was at this point that I began thinking about an engine swap, and this being an old farm truck, I got the crazy notion to install a tractor engine.
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Found an old Perkins 4.236 with 4 speed SM465 mated to it. This thing ran beautifully and had an incredible sound, but being a very tall engine, I gave up trying to make it fit after a year and a half. (I know some of you will say that it would have fit very easily, and that is true if modified the frame - but cutting up the frame is something I didn't want to do) Biggest issue was the front sump oil pan and the large Chevy cross member.
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After selling the Perkins set up, I kind of felt like I was stuck with installing another diesel engine because I had already changed the gears in the rear end to better match the diesel RPM range. I soon came across this web site Because I was considering the Cummins 4BT. But Then found this branch dedicated to the the Isuzu 4bd series of engines. Because Isuzu has had a long standing relationship with Chevy, I felt like this was not too much of a stretch to install a Japanese engine in an American classic. I'm glad I made that choice. I think it was the right one. I soon found a donor engine that was VERY well used and in desperate need of attention.
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This engine, a 1986 4bd1T ended up having a cracked block at the base of one of the cylinder skirts and a spun rod bearing that chewed up the crankshaft journal. Thanks to this web site, I knew that I could combine two different models. I found another engine, a 1994 4bd2TC that had a cracked cylinder head and began the task of making one good engine out of the two broken ones. I made my own Sleeve puller with some threaded rod, a piece of hardwood, a ball bearing and some nuts and washers run through some extruded aluminum and .100 stainless steel supports.
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Again, thanks to the part number thread on this site, I sourced a pile of new parts to begin making the new hybrid 4bd2TC block with 4bd1t head. I bought 4 Clevite cylinder sets that included the liner, 4bd1T piston and rings all together so I was sure that they would all be matched and work together well. Also installed all new Clevite camshaft, rod and main bearings.
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Oops, System wont allow me to attach any more photos, I 'll have to add another post to continue. . .
After Disassembly and a lot of work, we got the chassis rebuilt with front spindles and disk brakes from a 1972 3/4 ton.
It was at this point that I began thinking about an engine swap, and this being an old farm truck, I got the crazy notion to install a tractor engine.
Found an old Perkins 4.236 with 4 speed SM465 mated to it. This thing ran beautifully and had an incredible sound, but being a very tall engine, I gave up trying to make it fit after a year and a half. (I know some of you will say that it would have fit very easily, and that is true if modified the frame - but cutting up the frame is something I didn't want to do) Biggest issue was the front sump oil pan and the large Chevy cross member.
After selling the Perkins set up, I kind of felt like I was stuck with installing another diesel engine because I had already changed the gears in the rear end to better match the diesel RPM range. I soon came across this web site Because I was considering the Cummins 4BT. But Then found this branch dedicated to the the Isuzu 4bd series of engines. Because Isuzu has had a long standing relationship with Chevy, I felt like this was not too much of a stretch to install a Japanese engine in an American classic. I'm glad I made that choice. I think it was the right one. I soon found a donor engine that was VERY well used and in desperate need of attention.
This engine, a 1986 4bd1T ended up having a cracked block at the base of one of the cylinder skirts and a spun rod bearing that chewed up the crankshaft journal. Thanks to this web site, I knew that I could combine two different models. I found another engine, a 1994 4bd2TC that had a cracked cylinder head and began the task of making one good engine out of the two broken ones. I made my own Sleeve puller with some threaded rod, a piece of hardwood, a ball bearing and some nuts and washers run through some extruded aluminum and .100 stainless steel supports.
Again, thanks to the part number thread on this site, I sourced a pile of new parts to begin making the new hybrid 4bd2TC block with 4bd1t head. I bought 4 Clevite cylinder sets that included the liner, 4bd1T piston and rings all together so I was sure that they would all be matched and work together well. Also installed all new Clevite camshaft, rod and main bearings.
Oops, System wont allow me to attach any more photos, I 'll have to add another post to continue. . .
Attachments
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
Worked on the truck today after a few weeks break. I got the shift mechanism working correctly matches the pattern on the knob. I used the original parts from the NPR, but I flipped the bracket (painted blue) over. It is flipped end to end from front to back, not side to side. Then mounted the shift components back on again. Had to trim off some material from the levers. This method requires more clearance above the transmission, so if that is an issue for your project, you will want to look for another option. I still need to attach the centering spring. It attaches to what is now the rear of the blue bracket. The attaching bracket was cracked and I need to make a new one first before mount it. The driveshaft is at the shop getting made up to fit correctly. Hoping to have that in a week or two.
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I got an Aeroquip oil quick drain in the mail today. You have to purchase the parts separately, they do not come as a set. Cost is about $60 for the oil pan half and about $50 for the click on drain half. A little expensive, but in my opinion well worth the money. part numbers are FBM3132 for the part that screws into the oil pan. FMB3117 for the click on drain half, and FBM3118 for a spare/replacement dust cap.
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It has been a little while since I posted. I have gotten the cab mounted to the chassis. With the cab mounted, the only issue I have noticed is that the intake air may not work in the location I had planned. Of course nothing is written in stone. With these types of mods, you need to be a little flexible with your plans. Clearance on the transmission tunnel is about as expected.
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Went to the junk yard and pulled out a hydro boost from an old Chevy Astro Van. Watched a few YouTube videos, ordered a kit and rebuilt the hydro boost. Then got it mounted up and mated to the brake pedal.
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While at the junk yard, I also pulled an electric power steering column from a 2010 Toyota Corolla. Amazingly, the Toyota column bolted right up to the original column hole locations and fits like it was made for the truck. Now the portion of the column with the electric motor will take a little more wrangling. But it will go in there eventually. And the steering wheel will probably get replaced with something a little more appropriate for an old Chevy truck
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Went to the junk yard and pulled out a hydro boost from an old Chevy Astro Van. Watched a few YouTube videos, ordered a kit and rebuilt the hydro boost. Then got it mounted up and mated to the brake pedal.
While at the junk yard, I also pulled an electric power steering column from a 2010 Toyota Corolla. Amazingly, the Toyota column bolted right up to the original column hole locations and fits like it was made for the truck. Now the portion of the column with the electric motor will take a little more wrangling. But it will go in there eventually. And the steering wheel will probably get replaced with something a little more appropriate for an old Chevy truck
Attachments
Built a bracket to mount the Toyota power steering column motor. I first took the whole column off and painted the dash to get things ready. I held the column in place with some zip ties while I tack welded the bracket to get the proper angle. I haven't electrically connected it or powered it up yet. I still need to connect it to the manual steering gearbox up front. By now you should know that I like to communicate through pictures rather than long writings. So to that end - here are some more pictures. Hope this encourages someone else to make a similar mod.
Here is the finished electric motor bracket I made
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Bracket installed in the column support
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Here is the finished electric motor bracket I made
Bracket installed in the column support
Not a lot of work on the truck since my last post. But i did get my fuel tank in the mail and mocked it up. Now its time to get my fuel filters mounted and fuel lines connected.
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I also made a tray out of aluminum "C" channel for my new radiator to sit in. (The inter-cooler is going to mount where the original radiator resided)
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I also made a tray out of aluminum "C" channel for my new radiator to sit in. (The inter-cooler is going to mount where the original radiator resided)
Today I mocked up my turbo charger installation. I am happy with how it worked out. First I installed all new exhaust studs.
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Next I got a 90 degree T2-T3 adapter from Amazon. I had to make some adjustments to the holes. Nothing major.
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On Dougals' advise, I picked up a TD04HL-19T junkyard turbo from a Hyundai something or other. It looks to be in very good condition. However it was lacking an exhaust housing. So I also picked up a junkyard 6cm Saab exhaust housing.
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Final result looks like this:
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The turbo is water cooled, but both water ports are on the inboard side of the turbo housing.
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I am really pleased with how small and compact this packaging turned out to be. Can't wait to see how it performs.
I need to take it all back off. This was only a test fitting. I still need to drill out the exhaust manifold for a pyrometer probe.
In other news, I also got some new wood for the bed and test fit the bed to the truck. I sometimes feel like this project is never going to be done, and it helps me to see some visual progress to give myself a little boost and help me keep going on. Even if it is just a little bit of a a dog and pony show.
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Next I got a 90 degree T2-T3 adapter from Amazon. I had to make some adjustments to the holes. Nothing major.
On Dougals' advise, I picked up a TD04HL-19T junkyard turbo from a Hyundai something or other. It looks to be in very good condition. However it was lacking an exhaust housing. So I also picked up a junkyard 6cm Saab exhaust housing.
Final result looks like this:
The turbo is water cooled, but both water ports are on the inboard side of the turbo housing.
I am really pleased with how small and compact this packaging turned out to be. Can't wait to see how it performs.
I need to take it all back off. This was only a test fitting. I still need to drill out the exhaust manifold for a pyrometer probe.
In other news, I also got some new wood for the bed and test fit the bed to the truck. I sometimes feel like this project is never going to be done, and it helps me to see some visual progress to give myself a little boost and help me keep going on. Even if it is just a little bit of a a dog and pony show.
A credit to you Sir, nothing like a job well done even if it seems to take for ever....
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
