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1964 Chevy C10 with Isuzu 4BD1/2T

10790 Views 55 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  fredalowski
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I know this site seems to be primarily about conversions for 4X4 trucks, but you have all been a lot of help to me and I wanted to share what I have been building to say thanks. It's a 1965 Chevy C10 that belonged to my wife's grandfather. This is how it looked When we recovered it in 2016, literally 15 minutes after we pulled from under the tree. It had been sitting under a tree since he died in 1988.
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After Disassembly and a lot of work, we got the chassis rebuilt with front spindles and disk brakes from a 1972 3/4 ton.

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It was at this point that I began thinking about an engine swap, and this being an old farm truck, I got the crazy notion to install a tractor engine.
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Found an old Perkins 4.236 with 4 speed SM465 mated to it. This thing ran beautifully and had an incredible sound, but being a very tall engine, I gave up trying to make it fit after a year and a half. (I know some of you will say that it would have fit very easily, and that is true if modified the frame - but cutting up the frame is something I didn't want to do) Biggest issue was the front sump oil pan and the large Chevy cross member.
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After selling the Perkins set up, I kind of felt like I was stuck with installing another diesel engine because I had already changed the gears in the rear end to better match the diesel RPM range. I soon came across this web site Because I was considering the Cummins 4BT. But Then found this branch dedicated to the the Isuzu 4bd series of engines. Because Isuzu has had a long standing relationship with Chevy, I felt like this was not too much of a stretch to install a Japanese engine in an American classic. I'm glad I made that choice. I think it was the right one. I soon found a donor engine that was VERY well used and in desperate need of attention.

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This engine, a 1986 4bd1T ended up having a cracked block at the base of one of the cylinder skirts and a spun rod bearing that chewed up the crankshaft journal. Thanks to this web site, I knew that I could combine two different models. I found another engine, a 1994 4bd2TC that had a cracked cylinder head and began the task of making one good engine out of the two broken ones. I made my own Sleeve puller with some threaded rod, a piece of hardwood, a ball bearing and some nuts and washers run through some extruded aluminum and .100 stainless steel supports.
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Again, thanks to the part number thread on this site, I sourced a pile of new parts to begin making the new hybrid 4bd2TC block with 4bd1t head. I bought 4 Clevite cylinder sets that included the liner, 4bd1T piston and rings all together so I was sure that they would all be matched and work together well. Also installed all new Clevite camshaft, rod and main bearings.
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Oops, System wont allow me to attach any more photos, I 'll have to add another post to continue. . .

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A credit to you Sir, nothing like a job well done even if it seems to take for ever....:)
Appreciate it. I haven't posted in a while partly because I haven't been doing anything engine related work on the truck and partly because I haven't been doing a lot of work on the truck period. However I have got the bed and rear fenders installed. Still some details left at the rear of the truck such as the bumper and lights. Also need to install the fuel filler neck which will exit the left rear fender.

I have been working on collecting and organizing the parts to install the air conditioning system. The original Isuzu NPR Zexel AC compressor is at a shop getting overhauled (New gaskets/seals). Some will say that an old farm truck is not supposed to have air conditioning, but I am located in Arizona - It's hot here.

Also bought an instrument cluster on Craiglist and made a new panel to incorporate boost and EGT gauges. Started some the wiring. And oh yeah, a friend at work made me some keys out of hotwheels trucks.
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One more picture. This is where the truck is currently at in the process. I just keep chipping away at it slowly.

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Just wanting to say that the project is still alive and well. Not a lot of engine related work going on right now. Waiting on parts for a couple of months. That seems to be the norm now. Sigh! The back end of the truck is complete. Working on the cab now and then I will finish out the engine compartment and finally get this thing on the road some day. Painted the top of the cab white. I did this because all of the body seams need top be re-sealed. Dug out all the old sealant and replaced with 870 B1/2. Then added some cab lights to the roof and made a third brake light mount.
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Got the transmission cover installed, clutch master cylinder installed,
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AC system installed in the cab and flooring put down.

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Still waiting for door and window rubber and also oddly enough still waiting for a boost gauge.

I also got the EGT probe installed in the exhaust manifold.

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Looking good. What are you using for CAD and flooring? It's shaped in there really well. Much sound deadening?

I've been pondering engine side sound insulation. My injector pump is one of the noisiest parts at idle.
I see that you have side mounts on the engine and transmission. With that setup, when there is frame twist, like a truck with a load, twist loads are put on the engine/bell housing/transmission that they were not designed for. Some have broken these parts with 4 mounts like this. Most all factory drivetrains use three mounts, side of engine and one aft of transmission; or sides of clutch housing(SAE mounts) and one under front of engine.
Good luck, nice workmanship.

Ed in CO
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Looking good. What are you using for CAD and flooring? It's shaped in there really well. Much sound deadening?

I've been pondering engine side sound insulation. My injector pump is one of the noisiest parts at idle.
I use Shapr3D on the iPad and Solidworks or Freecad on the computer. (I also use Blender which is not really a CAD program)
For the flooring I started with sound deadening material followed by insulation and then the final floor covering. Here is the stuff I used. (please ignore the country of origin. I bought this stuff last year) 2 boxes of each and I have some left over. I have enough sound deadening to do the doors, but probably not enough insulation. Easier to install than I thought. The sound deadening was easier to handle in smaller pieces and I figured out that overlapping seams was just fine.

I obviously haven't had a chance to drive it on the road yet, but just tapping around on the metal surfaces I can tell a huge difference in noise reduction..
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I see that you have side mounts on the engine and transmission. With that setup, when there is frame twist, like a truck with a load, twist loads are put on the engine/bell housing/transmission that they were not designed for. Some have broken these parts with 4 mounts like this. Most all factory drivetrains use three mounts, side of engine and one aft of transmission; or sides of clutch housing(SAE mounts) and one under front of engine.
Good luck, nice workmanship.

Ed in CO
Well, I won't deny that the Isuzu NPR frame is much much stronger than my old 65 Chevy frame. But I am actually using the exact mounting points that Isuzu used for the engine and transmission. ( the transmission mounts are slightly aft of original location) In fact, I am using the very same Isuzu mounts themselves that came with the engine and transmission. Also I think it is too late to go back and re-engineer my installation. Your point is taken and this is a truck that has been in my wifes family for decades. We don't plan on loading it down or abusing it in any way. So hopefully there wont be any issues. The engne is mouinted directly to the front cross member, not the frame. Those old Chevy cross members are pretty substantial.
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Wanted to give an update. Haven't posted in a while. I'm hopefully closing in on finally getting this truck on the road. The bed is 100% complete. I've got the cab of the truck about 95% complete. There are a few little punch list items I need to address. Now I am moving on to the engine compartment. I am currently tying all the wiring together at the fuse/relay box under the hood. The I will move on to finishing up the engine. I still need to run an oil line to the turbo, build up the exhaust system, run air conditioning and heating hoses to the firewall, run hydraulic hoses from the power steering pump to the Hydroboost brakes, and a few other miscellaneous things like throttle linkage connections and air filter.

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So, with regards to the engine, I have a few questions. First of all, what ports do I use for the water supply and return? This engine has 5 ports three on the left side and two on the right side of the water pump/thermostat housing. (I have some of them capped off in the picture below)

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Secondly, do I need to plumb water to the turbo? (TD04HL-19T) or is it ok with just oil cooling?

Third, what is a good first start and break in procedure for this engine. It has been two years since I rebuilt this engine, and I haven't attempted to start the engine because of the things I have read about diesel engines on the internet. I read that a freshly overhauled diesel needs to be worked hard right from the start in order to break it in. I have read that it needs to be started, checked for leaks, and then put right out on the road up a big hill or towing something heavy right away - No lengthy runs in the garage. I bought diesel break in oil from Joe Gibbs Racing but haven't serviced the engine yet. In this case, the cylinders and bearings are really the only things that will need to get broken in. The crankshaft, cam and lifters are all original.

Fourth, any good advice on bleeding the fuel system?

Lastly, I have some engine parts to get rid of but I don't want to violate any forum rules. Is this a good place to list them for Sale?
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I can answer the second. Just oil is the simplest, and don’t cap the water ports, just leave them open. Looking good!
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I’ve gotten most of my electrical work finished including drawings and have taken the front fenders back off to paint the inners and to fit some more parts like a custom battery box. I have the exhaust system finished. Exhaust will need some shielding for the firewall and floor. I also had a local shop make up my hydraulic lines from the PS pump to the hydro boost. Also got the AC hoses made up. And I got the clutch pedal connected to the master cylinder. I think the clutch master cylinder might be too small. Not sure if it is pushing enough fluid. Next up is to get the turbo plumbed in and then head to the other side of the engine to connect the pump to the fuel shut off and accelerator pedal. Hopefully get this thing on the road soon.
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What did you get that electrical bulkhead plug from?
Thanks,

Ed in CO
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What did you get that electrical bulkhead plug from?
Thanks,

Ed in CO
Looks to be military grade...
I’ve gotten most of my electrical work finished including drawings and have taken the front fenders back off to paint the inners and to fit some more parts like a custom battery box. I have the exhaust system finished. Exhaust will need some shielding for the firewall and floor. I also had a local shop make up my hydraulic lines from the PS pump to the hydro boost. Also got the AC hoses made up. And I got the clutch pedal connected to the master cylinder. I think the clutch master cylinder might be too small. Not sure if it is pushing enough fluid. Next up is to get the turbo plumbed in and then head to the other side of the engine to connect the pump to the fuel shut off and accelerator pedal. Hopefully get this thing on the road soon. View attachment 135940

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That is one of the most impressive builds, I've seen in awhile, the detail is excellent.
What did you get that electrical bulkhead plug from?
Thanks,

Ed in CO
There is a store her in Tucson called Eliot’s Electonics. Attached to the building is Eliot’s Surplus. It’s essentially an indoor aircraft junk yard. Fun place to scrounge through. So yeah, it’s an old aircraft connector. (I’ve been in aviation for 37 years, so I kind of know what to look for when I want something)
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That is one of the most impressive builds, I've seen in awhile, the detail is excellent.
Thank you. Comment appreciated. It’s been a long road.
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