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1964 Chevy C10 with Isuzu 4BD1/2T

19K views 89 replies 15 participants last post by  fredalowski 
#1 ·
I know this site seems to be primarily about conversions for 4X4 trucks, but you have all been a lot of help to me and I wanted to share what I have been building to say thanks. It's a 1965 Chevy C10 that belonged to my wife's grandfather. This is how it looked When we recovered it in 2016, literally 15 minutes after we pulled from under the tree. It had been sitting under a tree since he died in 1988.
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Pickup truck Motor vehicle

After Disassembly and a lot of work, we got the chassis rebuilt with front spindles and disk brakes from a 1972 3/4 ton.

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It was at this point that I began thinking about an engine swap, and this being an old farm truck, I got the crazy notion to install a tractor engine.
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Found an old Perkins 4.236 with 4 speed SM465 mated to it. This thing ran beautifully and had an incredible sound, but being a very tall engine, I gave up trying to make it fit after a year and a half. (I know some of you will say that it would have fit very easily, and that is true if modified the frame - but cutting up the frame is something I didn't want to do) Biggest issue was the front sump oil pan and the large Chevy cross member.
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After selling the Perkins set up, I kind of felt like I was stuck with installing another diesel engine because I had already changed the gears in the rear end to better match the diesel RPM range. I soon came across this web site Because I was considering the Cummins 4BT. But Then found this branch dedicated to the the Isuzu 4bd series of engines. Because Isuzu has had a long standing relationship with Chevy, I felt like this was not too much of a stretch to install a Japanese engine in an American classic. I'm glad I made that choice. I think it was the right one. I soon found a donor engine that was VERY well used and in desperate need of attention.

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This engine, a 1986 4bd1T ended up having a cracked block at the base of one of the cylinder skirts and a spun rod bearing that chewed up the crankshaft journal. Thanks to this web site, I knew that I could combine two different models. I found another engine, a 1994 4bd2TC that had a cracked cylinder head and began the task of making one good engine out of the two broken ones. I made my own Sleeve puller with some threaded rod, a piece of hardwood, a ball bearing and some nuts and washers run through some extruded aluminum and .100 stainless steel supports.
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Again, thanks to the part number thread on this site, I sourced a pile of new parts to begin making the new hybrid 4bd2TC block with 4bd1t head. I bought 4 Clevite cylinder sets that included the liner, 4bd1T piston and rings all together so I was sure that they would all be matched and work together well. Also installed all new Clevite camshaft, rod and main bearings.
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Oops, System wont allow me to attach any more photos, I 'll have to add another post to continue. . .
 

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#2 ·
. . . Continued
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Too many hours of cleaning and sand blasting to count.
I used the broken 4bd1T block and the isuzu MSA5d to mock up my engine and transmission mounts
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Fabricated engine mount bases out of a block of aluminum and used the original Isuzu mounts.
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After mounting the engine I began adding the accessories and doing some mock up of other parts to see how things were going top fit.
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#3 ·
Just a few more pictures
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I ended up using the 4bd1T intake, fuel pump and fuel filter housing.
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So that's it. Currently waiting on clutch parts to mate up the transmission to the engine. I know that I am still a long way from being finished, but just wanted to say thanks to all of you for sharing your knowledge and making this rebuild and install a pretty smooth endeavor so far. I hope this encourages others to try an Isuzu 4bd series engine in their own project.
 
#11 ·
Nice work. What turbo do you intend to run? The free-floating T25 you've got on there right now is very slow and lazy. The 1986 may have had an IHI RHB6 which was a good turbo but not supported for parts or rebuild.
Holset HE221, HX30 (6cm) or MHI TDO4HL-19T are solid options.
 
#12 ·
You are correct. The 1986 4bd1T did have an IHI RHB6 and the one in the pictures is the Garrett that came off of the 4bd2TC. I was really just hanging it there to get an idea about spacing/packaging and routing of the exhaust. Both of these turbos I have are scrap metal - were extremely neglected and I don't trust them and so I will have to install a new turbo. I have read all of you posts about turbos suitable for this engine and the one I really drool over is the Borg Warner EFR6258. That's pretty aspirational. The more realistic and affordable option is the HE221W as my first choice and then probably the TDO4HL-19T. I have a lot of work to do before I get to the turbo tho.
 
#13 ·
Wow you have clearly taken your time and done some fine work to get where you'er at! Please keep all of us posted on your progress! Greetings from Montana by the way!
i too am in the process of combining 4bd1 pimp, lines and head into a 4bdt2 block! One of my mini problems is what to put it in after it is put together ! LOL
 
#19 ·
Don't know if anyone else has had this issue come up. I am intending on using the AC compressor on my project. I attempted to use the 4bd1t alternator/AC bracket (because it was already cleaned up and I didn't realize that there was a difference between the 4bd1t bracket and the 4bd2t bracket) but soon realized that the AC pulley was not lining up with the crankshaft pulley. I'm using the 4bd2t block, crankshaft and pulley. So I had to go back and clean up and paint the 4bd2t bracket. On that bracket, the AC compressor rides just about a half inch farther forward than on the 4bd1t bracket. Just a heads up to others out there. (4bd2t on the left, 4bd1t on the right)
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#24 ·
Worked on the truck today after a few weeks break. I got the shift mechanism working correctly matches the pattern on the knob. I used the original parts from the NPR, but I flipped the bracket (painted blue) over. It is flipped end to end from front to back, not side to side. Then mounted the shift components back on again. Had to trim off some material from the levers. This method requires more clearance above the transmission, so if that is an issue for your project, you will want to look for another option. I still need to attach the centering spring. It attaches to what is now the rear of the blue bracket. The attaching bracket was cracked and I need to make a new one first before mount it. The driveshaft is at the shop getting made up to fit correctly. Hoping to have that in a week or two.
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#25 ·
I got an Aeroquip oil quick drain in the mail today. You have to purchase the parts separately, they do not come as a set. Cost is about $60 for the oil pan half and about $50 for the click on drain half. A little expensive, but in my opinion well worth the money. part numbers are FBM3132 for the part that screws into the oil pan. FMB3117 for the click on drain half, and FBM3118 for a spare/replacement dust cap.
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#27 ·
It has been a little while since I posted. I have gotten the cab mounted to the chassis. With the cab mounted, the only issue I have noticed is that the intake air may not work in the location I had planned. Of course nothing is written in stone. With these types of mods, you need to be a little flexible with your plans. Clearance on the transmission tunnel is about as expected.
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Went to the junk yard and pulled out a hydro boost from an old Chevy Astro Van. Watched a few YouTube videos, ordered a kit and rebuilt the hydro boost. Then got it mounted up and mated to the brake pedal.
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While at the junk yard, I also pulled an electric power steering column from a 2010 Toyota Corolla. Amazingly, the Toyota column bolted right up to the original column hole locations and fits like it was made for the truck. Now the portion of the column with the electric motor will take a little more wrangling. But it will go in there eventually. And the steering wheel will probably get replaced with something a little more appropriate for an old Chevy truck

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#28 ·
Built a bracket to mount the Toyota power steering column motor. I first took the whole column off and painted the dash to get things ready. I held the column in place with some zip ties while I tack welded the bracket to get the proper angle. I haven't electrically connected it or powered it up yet. I still need to connect it to the manual steering gearbox up front. By now you should know that I like to communicate through pictures rather than long writings. So to that end - here are some more pictures. Hope this encourages someone else to make a similar mod.

Here is the finished electric motor bracket I made

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Bracket installed in the column support
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#29 ·
While you've got it this far apart is the ideal time to consider noise insulation. Perfect plan involves deadening layer (dynamat, roof-flashing tape etc), then a full cover insulation layer (felt, EVA foam, etc) and a heavy full cover top layer (vinyl, carpet etc).

And great work. That's a really clean build.
 
#30 ·
You may want to consider a mounting support to the center of the dash just below or to the passenger side off the radio cutout. I’m not sure how vibration is on the Isuzu engine, but the Cummins about shook my dash apart in first gear around 1000 rpm. The 64 dash is weak near the glove box and flex’s. I found that sound deadening the back of cab behind seat/gas tank helped also. Great work by the way. Keep the pictures flowing
 
#32 ·
Not a lot of work on the truck since my last post. But i did get my fuel tank in the mail and mocked it up. Now its time to get my fuel filters mounted and fuel lines connected.

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I also made a tray out of aluminum "C" channel for my new radiator to sit in. (The inter-cooler is going to mount where the original radiator resided)

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#34 ·
I have a few loose ends to tie up before starting the engine for the first time. Mostly plumbing, setting valves, etc . . . But I have questions about how to approach starting the engine. Frankly I'm a little nervous about it. You spend that much time and money on something, you don't want to screw it up. I am planning on not running the turbo on it for the first run. I figure that just eliminates some of the complexity and points of initial failure. I am also planning on running it without water the first time.

So is there any special oil I need to use for the first start? Or just use a plain old right-out-of-the-jug Rotella motor oil? Any certain weight? (I'm in Arizona where it has been in the 100's F lately) There is assembly grease on all the bearing surfaces. Do I shoot some light weight lubricant into the cylinders before cranking. Do I crank without starting the engine for a while to circulate oil first? How long do I run it? Just long enough to look for leaks? Is there a break-in procedure or time period? Any fuel additive to help with pump lubrication since we use a low sulfur fuel here in the states? These probably seem like obvious or dumb questions, but this is my first diesel, so please humor me. I depend on your experience and advise with these engines for my success. Thanks in advance.
 
#36 ·
WOW, WOW, WOW!!!

You've picked a lot of the same options that I chose as well. So pretty!!!

I think the best break-in is variable speed/load with dino oil for the first 2000 miles or so, then swap out oil for whatever you're going to run. I am by no means a specialist.
I mostly just wanted to post up and say thanks for sharing. My plan is/was to build it all dirty, mostly because I don't want to make it pretty and find out it doesn't work. Then phase II would be make it pretty. I just love the work you've done. I'm going to copy some of your touches when I paint my motor. Love the gold injectors, it's a nice accent.

-Kevin
 
#37 ·
Today I mocked up my turbo charger installation. I am happy with how it worked out. First I installed all new exhaust studs.

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Next I got a 90 degree T2-T3 adapter from Amazon. I had to make some adjustments to the holes. Nothing major.

Hood Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive design Automotive exterior


On Dougals' advise, I picked up a TD04HL-19T junkyard turbo from a Hyundai something or other. It looks to be in very good condition. However it was lacking an exhaust housing. So I also picked up a junkyard 6cm Saab exhaust housing.
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Final result looks like this:

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The turbo is water cooled, but both water ports are on the inboard side of the turbo housing.

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I am really pleased with how small and compact this packaging turned out to be. Can't wait to see how it performs.
I need to take it all back off. This was only a test fitting. I still need to drill out the exhaust manifold for a pyrometer probe.

In other news, I also got some new wood for the bed and test fit the bed to the truck. I sometimes feel like this project is never going to be done, and it helps me to see some visual progress to give myself a little boost and help me keep going on. Even if it is just a little bit of a a dog and pony show.

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