Cummins 4BT & Diesel Conversions Forums banner

41 - 60 of 74 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Ok guys verified I have a dually 14 bolt cover was counted to double check but it has 4.09 gears now my are 14 has 3.73s so my question is can I swap that gear set over to the dually without any issues? I also ordered the full gasket set for the 4bt ,a rebuild kits with bearings seals gaskets and synchros, and from what I found online the gasket kit from a np201 np200 np205 all fit the 202 I bought one with the 10 bolt pto gasket. I also bought a front and rear axle swap kit for the gm 14 bolt and the GM D60 from Barnes 4x4. It includes the perches plates u bolts and shock mounts. I now need to locate a new or used turbo for sale or trade that will work well with my intended setup and an intercooler.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
Well guys I did a bunch of research and have decided to upgrade the turbo I already have. I just purchased a billet compressor wheel 46mm/73mm 7+ blade for the 4bt h1c and am purchasing a 12cm housing as I currently have a 16cm. I will have the wheels balanced at a shop. The total cost 70$ for the wheel and around 230$ for the housing I haven’t been able to locate a used 12cm housing. I haven’t purchased it yet but will be a genuine Holset. Plus the cost of the balance and will still be well under the cost of an hx30/w and will know exactly what I got. My turbo is in really good shape and hate to have to purchase another one so this is the route I’m gonna go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,259 Posts
You may be somewhat disappointed in the performance of that turbo. No matter what you do to it the small H1C isn't a great turbo. Your planned changes may help it some but it's just not ideal for any amount of performance. Now if you don't plan on any significant power increase it may be OK. The 12cc housing will make it boost a bit quicker but will not be in the same league as an HX30W which has a 6cc housing. Make sure that 12cc housing is gated. An ungated housing will start to cause higher EGT's as they get smaller.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
I’m going to look into an external gate possibly. I read that the 9cm hy35 housing the egts were really high but with the 12cm housing folks across the net said they worked very well. I am going to upgrade the thrust bearing as well. I have to start stripping down and cleaning the engine up and the transmission. I am not looking forward to the exhaust manifold bolts they are pretty rusty I’ve been soaking them with liquid wrench I’m gonna wire wheel them and keep soaking them. I am gonna pick up a propane torch as well just in case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,259 Posts
Exhaust bolts are never fun. The main problem with the HY35W is its compressor is too big for a 4bt to spool properly. Guys try turning up the fuel and that just makes it get hotter. Compressors with an inducer larger than 46mm just don't work well on a 4bt. There was a WH1C which had a 12cc gated housing and it might fit the 46mm H1C. In fact, you might check to see it the HX35W housing fits it because the WH1C is essentially the same. Maybe one of our turbo experts would know for sure. I have a WH1C but never had a H1C. Since you mentioned an external gate I assume the housing you were looking at was not gated.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Yes non gated it’s a 12cm from what read the housings are the same the one on it currently is a 16cm. I figured I’d increase the exhaust pressure and lighten the compressor wheel it should help a lot. The billet wheel is the only thing that’s not genuine holset. I got the engine all stripped down except the timing case I have to pull the cam gear and the IP pump gear. I bought a 5 ton puller and a propane torch to lightly heat the cam gear to assist in removing it. I will heat it in the oven to around 375 degrees to reinstall and use ice bags to cool the cam shaft so it goes on easy. I bought a gear puller for the IP pump. The internal stuff was absolutely spotless no build up or sludge any where not in the pan or valve train area or intake. I just didn’t see hardly any wear. Just crusty on the outside and peeling old paint. I will put videos up of some of this.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
Well guys got the 12cm holset housing ordered and the upgraded thrust bearing rebuild kit got a gear puller and a 5 ton 3 jaw puller to hopefully get the cam and Ip pump gears off and an engine stand looking around for the Cummins vacuum pump and an intercooler as well so we’ll see how it goes finally going today to go get my NP202 tcase today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,259 Posts
Which type vacuum pump are you looking for. Is it the stand alone vacuum pump that was belt driven or the vacuum pump/power steering combo that came on the Dodge 6bt? The stand alone type is pretty scarce. It has been discontinued for quite some time. The stand alone unit was Cummins part 3911430. Don't have the part numbers off hand for the oil line and pulley. Here's complete kit for sale on ebay for $350. That is probably a bargain. Last time I checked the pump only from Cummins was like $700. 5.9 Cummins Vacuum Pump New Old Stock | eBay There was also another stand alone vacuum pump that used the diaphragm pump like found on the Ford diesel. I've only ever seen 2 of those. They are quite rare. If you're looking at the combo units that came on the Dodge, avoid the early model which had the 2 diaphragm pumps. Those units have a bad reputation for bearing failure. Dodge only used those a few years and change to the Wabco pumps which have an oil feed for the bearing. There are 2 styles of those and both are OK. Rebuild kits for the vacuum pump are not expensive and easy to install. Gould Gear and Electric here in NC makes the best one.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,259 Posts
If your going to have power steering you'll need the vacuum pump/power steering combo. The '94-02 is probably the best unit of all the ones used. If no power steering is used I guess you could still use the pump without it. When you install one of those, there is an oil feed line that attaches to the block just below the injection pump. Also, there is a support brace that bolts the unit to the block. On the combo setup, not using that support brace usually results in a broken vacuum pump. I'll attach a video prepared by Gould that shows the rebuild process for the vacuum pump. He also shows some of the bad things on the early model and broken vacuum pumps. The KDP is something that is automatic to check. Unless the issue has been addressed in the past you need to fix it. That means removing the front cover which also means you have to replace the crankshaft oil seal. When you reinstall that front cover, the crank area where the seal touches must be absolutely clean and dry. Any oil or grease will result in an oil leak. If you note any damage or excessive wear to the crank seal area, you'll need to install a sleeve on it and use a matching seal. There is a gasket for the front cover but most use RTV to seal it. I don't think Cummins even uses the gasket anymore but they do sell them. While you're in there, you should remove any bolts behind the cover, clean the holes thoroughly, and reinstall the bolts using blue Loctite. They all torque to 18 ft lbs except the ones on the oil pump. Those have a special 3 step torque sequence. Those inside bolts have a habit of working lose and can do more damage than the KDP. The ones on the front crank pulley have a much higher torque setting. Here's the video link on the vacuum pump.
One note on the vacuum pump combo install. As long as the engine has the VE injection pump there's no clearance issue but the P 7100 pumps do have issues.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #54
Ok ya I found the vacuum pump that mates to a power steering pump I’m going use the old pS pump for now as long as it bolts to the vacuum pump It was used for hydro assist brakes which I do not want any part of makes the engine stall. I will change the Kdp and clean threads and blue locktite. Thanks for the video as well
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Well almost back home with the new np202 I will definitely post a video of how the ebrake has to be fitted from an np201/200 as there are no pictures or videos on the net any where anymore:/
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Ok guys been Uber Busy got the cam gear off and got it back on without much issue a lot it parr’s cleaning and painting and made my own KDP fix. I used Red RTV for the gear case instead of the gasket from the kit and blue locktite for bolts torqued to spec. I am now looking for an aftercooler as that is a direct bolt on. I am also gonna go through the p pump and put a new gasket kit on it. I am going to start on transmission and t case after engine is buttoned up. I am waiting on the turbo housing and the billet wheel to show up then I will go through the turbo and add the upgraded bearing kit. I am also working on getting the axle swap started as well. I’ll get a video or 2 up soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,259 Posts
Something you mentioned about using your old power steering pump. That pump won't work with the vacuum pump combo unless it was designed for it. The ones for the vacuum pump have a special collar mounted on the shaft to link them together. One caution. If you remove the cam gear and replace it, they sometimes have the bad habit of coming loose in the future. There is an aftermarket kit that bolts it in place. Around $30. If that gear should walk off the end of the cam it could cause a world of grief.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Well guys I will be running the srw rear I have there’s just not much room given the width of the frame with the gm leaf springs to fit the dually rear. I read the transmission stickies to try to make sure I get the correct clutch kit and pilot bear for the nv4500 plus tried looking with the numbers I was given from my other thread still unsure on what I need. I need a whole clutch kit perferably and the correct pilot bearing for the Gm flywheel.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
Well guys after chasing down 1 lousy nut that was equivalent to a dime holding up a dollar. I have got the axles under the truck and now have to figure out a power steer box the W300 has a different box than all the other W&D series dodges of that era any advice would be extremely helpful here’s some pics of the progress so far.
 

Attachments

41 - 60 of 74 Posts
Top