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Discussion Starter #61
Well guys I broke down and bought a Redhead steering box for a 72 to 76 Dodge 4x4 reverse rotation and did some clearance cutting and grinding with my grinder and Dremal. And got it to line up nicely with my steering column. I have to fabricate the bracket and locate a pitman arm 13/16 that is longer than stock by 3” or find a stock sized one and get a lift block for my gm d60 steering knuckle them make up a drag link.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Well guys I rebuilt the used vacuum pump today with Gould gears kit. I need to know what I need to make my own oil feed line for it cheaper that way. I also need to locate possibly a used throttle lever/bracket assembly for my VE pump. I also need to locate a used power steering bracket/brace and one of the pump studs and 2 nuts that were missing when I bought it.
 

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I made my own brace from some angle iron - just trimmed it to fit. This has over 70K miles on it with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Thank you for that picture that will allow me to make it. What about making up the oil feed line I assume I can get hose and fittings to make one up with out buying one or having one made.
 

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Making high pressure hoses is above my pay grade
 

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Discussion Starter #66
I made one for my military truck for an oil centrifuge with rubber braided transmission line on hose barbs with hose clamps I should be able to do the same with this if I can get smaller line will need a fitting to fit the line on the block.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Well guys we test fit the engine and transmission gonna have lots of room. Now we have to take it all out to finish up the engine,rebuild the transmission and get the power steering finished I went to WFO for help with the pitman arm and drag link.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I forgot to ask for the GM motor mount part numbers as well and may fab up another set of motor mounts to help with supporting the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Well guys the tone wheel/ring is a press fit and there are no longer any of the 3” ones that mine has to be found so I am gonna have someone else rebuild my transmission. I am getting ready to start working on the engine mounts and transmission cross member. I have wondered if I should add 2 additional engine mounts if that would help any. I am also working on the NP202 transfer case as well. I will let y’all know what I run into with putting the np201 ebrake on. I also have the power steering box mounted finally and still have to get the pitman arm sort
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Well got the tone ring off with a 3 jaw puller and a little bit of heat 5 gear was a lot harder to pull off but it came off as well. I got a used tone ring from someone online lucked out. I also ordered the 2479 motor mounts and transmission mount. I also got a billet wheel for my H1C finally from a legit seller bank dispute for the other BS and 6 new injectors from Amazon for 30ish$ so I’ll have 2 spares. I’ll soon have the 4BT ready to fire up and see what happens. I definitely need to do another video or 2;)
 

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It is best to have only 3 engine mounts, otherwise frame twisting can become a problem. Auto trans mount can be flexible. Side mounts off the clutch housing(SAE style) allow for one in front under the damper.

Ed in CO.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I just went with the P30 motor mounting brackets I have and bought just 2 of those 2479 mounts and purchased a new rear transmission mount.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
The 10 degree lean worked out because it clears the brake booster. I have to fabricate the frame mounting locations for the engine mounts and have to mock-up my turbo housing because of the rear dump to make sure everything clears. I used the stock gm nv4500 cross member just had to cut it down. I am getting there just taking some time.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Ok guys I am almost done with the transmission rebuild. I wanted to know if this bearing 302-SS will be ok on the flywheel I read someone used it also will I be ok to use the 12” LUK clutch with this? I replaced the synchros and the main bearings and input bearings new seals and new input shaft ,reused needle bearings. I am using Lucas 75w-90w full synthetic and synthetic stabilizer GL4&GL5 rated
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Well guys I got the 12” HD LUK clutch kit the bearing I mentioned by Timken a new slave cylinder by LUK and a new clutch master cylinder for my year Dodge 1964 I have no idea if I’ll have any issues using my stock clutch master cylinder with the Chevy slave I guess we ll find out. I picked up the Rotella 15w40 full synthetic oil and 2 bottles of Lucas synthetic stabilizer. I am trying to push to get it to start I just hope the IP pump Isn’t to far out of adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Here’s some pics of my NP202 after I rebuilt it I reused the NP201 bearings as they had more bearings and almost double the lateral load rating. I am taking the NP201 ebrake plate and my DRW hubs to the machine shop tomorrow. I did notice that the transfer case had a stiff spot/some binding in low range and not sure why?
 

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On your clutch slave/master combo, how it performs will depend on the bore and stroke of each piece. Do you know the year or each part. Should be able to find the specs on them and compare.
 
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