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OK, found a little info. The W300 master has a bore of 28.58mm and the GM is 18mm. That's a 59% larger bore on the Dodge. If I remember my hydraulics that means you'd only push the pedal less than half the distance to release the clutch. However, the clutch might be a good bit stiffer. What seems interesting is both slaves seem to be around 20mm. Maybe the old Dodge slave needed to travel farther to release.
 

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OK, found a little info. The W300 master has a bore of 28.58mm and the GM is 18mm. That's a 59% larger bore on the Dodge. If I remember my hydraulics that means you'd only push the pedal less than half the distance to release the clutch. However, the clutch might be a good bit stiffer. What seems interesting is both slaves seem to be around 20mm. Maybe the old Dodge slave needed to travel farther to release.
Charles we also need to remember to include the pedals leverage in the equation however as a general rule the less pedal leverage will also lead to a longer stroke so.............$.02
 
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Discussion Starter #85
All great suggestions guys I am so close to getting it to start I still have some concerns with the IP pump as it was messed with when I got it and with me changing the governor spring out and moving the smoke screw back up as they had it clear to the bottom I just want to make sure that I can get it to a good zero point to adjust it to know exactly what I got and will be very cautious so I don’t have a run away thankfully I have my son to help and will have it test running out of a jerry can first so I can just pull out the line and will have a block too to choke the air off if need be the power screw was only moved out not in when I put it back together to make sure I didn’t cause too much fuel and I didn’t do a full tear down
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Well guys the transmission is almost done. That was one hell of a fight I had to weld a bead on the Input bearing race to get it out. I also had to reuse a race because the new one was a 1/16” to wide and was binding the old one fit the new bearing just fine. I also had no endplay on both shafts shims would bind it. It turns as smooth as butter. I have everything to put the clutch and flywheel on and had my starter rebuilt. I’m getting ready to start mocking up the P30 radiator my fenders,hood and grill to see if I can use a flex-a-lite nylon fan like I have in my other military truck. I don’t want an electric fan because I like to have a stereo system in my trucks and don’t want the extra load on my alternator. I also have to look at how the Edlebrock intercooler I bought with need to be plumbed. I’ll have to get some videos up of my progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Well guys today I hope is the big day to try to start the engine after what all I’ve done to it. We filled it up with full synthetic and Lucas synthetic stabilizer . No leaks at the pan I have install the turbo the starter and wire it temporarily to start I also am putting on a temporary oil pressure gauge and just have to finish tightening up the fuel lines. I just hope I can get the IP pump right. It has the steel collar still on it and one locking nut on the adjuster had no tamper cap. I turned the star wheel up from the bottom a couple of turns didn’t mess with the Screw on the top the power screw was turned out slightly after I had moved it a half a turn in approximately. I wanted to make sure I kept it from running away. I also will have stuff ready in case of that. I also have the electric shut off disabled and am going to use a manual shut off as I am used to that anyway because my m35a2 bobber has it.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Well trying to get the intake stuff figured out I want to run a snorkel and a precleaner and having a hard time finding a filter box that will have a 4” inlet and a 2 3/4” or 3” exit
 

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Well trying to get the intake stuff figured out I want to run a snorkel and a precleaner and having a hard time finding a filter box that will have a 4” inlet and a 2 3/4” or 3” exit
You will need to go much larger that you might think to keep the restriction to a minimum Holset recommends a maximum vacuum at the turbos inlet at 15" H2o, so a big filter and as short and as few bends in the snorkel and associated plumbing. I was able to pull it off with the He221 but just barely there was no way with the compounds..........$.02
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Well guys I wanted to give y’all an update on the build. I am almost ready to rebuild the rear axle GM14 bolt.I have all the parts except the rotors and the Torq locker I plan on using. I am using a 2003 5.3 Chevy Air filter box it’s rated for 577cfm max flow @6000rpms. It’s being modded for a snorkel with a precleaner. 4” ID ABS pipe. The brake system still has to be plumbed and the intercooler and intake side. I still have body work electrical and interior to finish and some fab work wheels locking hubs, and suspension I.e. shocks and steering stabilizer. Then testing everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Well guys I found a salvage yard that had the Drivers side door latch assembly I needed and the front hood letters 1:30 away all the local places shut down or no longer have old vehicles. Some prices were good some were very high. I made my own dash plate and have been working towards getting this thing to move under its own power. I still need to locate a front seat gonna do one with the fold down center. I am also looking for another bed the utility bed is just in to bad of shape for me to deal with so looking for the long stepside bed or another utility bed.
 
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