I like V8's myself, but LS-type engines are so played nowandays that I probably wouldn't use one. I'd stick with a gen 1 SBC, or a Mark IV BBC, or even a Ford or Chrysler V8. Just depends on the project and application. As for inline 6's, the AMC/Jeep 4.0 is probably my favorite. Throw a 4.2 crank in a 4.0 NVH block and you got 4.6-4.7L worth of torque-making coolness. I rate the 292 Chevy and the 300 Ford basically the same, but being a Chevy guy I'd probably lean toward the 292. Again, it would depend on the project. I wouldn't throw a Chevy motor in a Ford vehicle when there are perfectly good Ford engines to do the job. The Chrysler slant six is my second favorite inline 6. The 170 is the best for performance due to the bore/stroke ratio and balanced breathing. The 198 is ok, but I'd take a 225 over the 198 if I need a bigger slant. The main problem with the 225 is that it is so undersquare and is stuck with 170-sized valves. It makes gobs of torque for it's displacement at low RPMs, but as you noted it ain't gonna be a powerhouse. It IS technically powerful enough for a 1-ton, as long as you ain't in a big hurry to get anywhere. It's just as well that the 225 slant 6 has the breathing limitations, because the long stroke combined with only 4 main bearings equals a crank too flexible and unsupported to handle large amounts of RPM. The big counterweights on the slant 6 crank make for a seriously huge hunk of iron, but thanks to the use of hemi-sized (the old, original hemis) main bearings it's plenty stout nontheless.I wondered around FB n the net looking at 292ci Chevy in-line 6s and Ford 300 6s. I am definitely a huge fan of inline motors. It just sucks that slant 6 is too under powered for a 1 ton. The 6ers are cheap n easy to upgrade and work on. I just don’t care for V8s. The Spicer can be hooked up to the 292 according to the artical by 4wheel magazine I think Sbc and a 3053a swap in an m715. I think I may have a lead on that bell housing and flywheel setup not sure yet. But man I would make some guys mad putting a ford or Chevy motor in a Dodge. As for me I just love old 4x4s so I’m more Brand neutral LMAO.
Sometimes you don't have a choice. I thought the 3053a used an SAE #3 or SAE #2 flywheel housing and flywheel? Unless you get a deal on used stuff I can see the flywheel housing, flywheel, and starter costing a grand, if not more. A Chinese (spit) starter would save a few hundred.I have around 30k$ in my Bobbed Deuce&1/2 That I’m selling I don’t think I’m scared to spend money I just want to spend my money wisely.
Not sure why the slant 6 would have you screaming down the highway? You gear it properly, just like any engine.Ya the flywheel that fits the SAE#3 that fits the Spicer is 1000$ to as high as 1400$ Just for the flywheel 13” clutch the SAE#2 You have to have a multifuel Aluminum adapter ring reworked to fit the Cummins engine 14”clutch. The effort and expense is worth it as the Spicer is way stronger than an Nv4500 and is a fraction of the price even rebuilt. Also plenty of USA made parts. Unlike the NV4500 and it’s special gear oil. It’s just the parts to mate it is where it’s more of a pay wall. In my research no other combos will work to mate a Spicer 3053a to a Cummins. I am glad to talk about and share my ideas and research with everyone as well as get different opinions on things. I would have done the Slant 6 route if I didn’t need it to go highway speeds but I need 60 or 70mph not screaming down the road. It kinda has me all over the place thinking and researching ideas for the swap.
Don't misunderstand me. While I am saying that the slant can handle a 7000lb truck, I would far prefer a 5.9 or 6.7 Cummins in that application. The slant will get the job done, but it will be very slow to accelerate (especially if the truck is loaded or hauling a trailer!) and use more fuel than the diesels. Really, the only gas engines I would consider for a truck that large is something with at least 380 cu in, and preferably a big block with 440+ cu in. It'll drink gas like it's free, but it would have plenty of power. Again, a 5.9 or 6.7 diesel is really the way to go.Ya I understand completely what you are saying. I would love to put the slant in it but I’m not sure it can handle a 7000lb truck. Illl be happy if I can get 15mpg and up to 60 or 65 and not wear something out too fast doing so. I’m not a speed guy either I just want enough to make it a solid all around truck that’ll I’ll enjoy upgrading and working on
Only Eaton trans' designated 'FSO' are OD, an 'FS' trans might not be useful.Probably need to contact Eaton. That transmission is near 30 years old. Pretty sure it used an SAE2 mount but not sure about the gear ratios. The FS6105A may have been a replacement.
It will be similar to an FS6305A, but an earlier revision as indicated by the "0" in the second number vs the "3" in the later, and probably current, revision. It is a non-overdrive trans, as are all of the Eaton-Fuller FS-series 5 speeds. Gear ratios are 7.22, 3.89, 2.22, 1.39, and 1.00. Torque rating is 660lb-ft.I have been looking at an Eaton transmission it’s an FS6005A 5 speed I can not find any information on its specs online at all. I’m just curious about it it was from an F700 and I think was in a frieghtliner.
When installing the 6.9 I had to box the frame from the mounts to front crossmember, which I also had to remove and replace with one I made. Like most all older vehicles it had the flywheel housing & frt crossmember mounts. Had no room for a crossmember. Made a set of mounts before the box and it twisted the double frame. Took another piece of power wagon frame split it down the middle stuffed it inside the frame left to right & right to left then welded it back together.I don't think any frame strengthening would be needed even is utilizing the engine center mounts. I have a one ton frame, but I am using the standard frame-size engine mounts that would be used for a SB, BB, or 6.2 diesel. On top of it, my tube motor mounts are fairly minimalist and none of the material is heavier than 1/4". The tube used in the mounts is 1-½" x .120 wall 4130. The frame itself has a material thickness of around .240". Even with a 12V sitting atop it and spending plenty of time getting bounced around off-road as well as a LOT of on-road miles, the frame and mounts are perfectly fine. I think a lot of guys grossly overestimate the weight of these engines and/or the strength required of the frame and motor mounts.
You do need a decently robust and rigid motor mount though: