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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
It's been years and I've finally got just about all the bits and pieces for this project. I'll post the elevator pitch now and will follow up with my build sheet in the coming days.
I hope to put a lot of detail into this for folks looking to swap in FJ40s. I've found the couple builds out there that were documented and I always wished for a bit more detail.

Original machine: 1967 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser that I've had for 11 years. I've had several but this one has always been with an eye towards the 4BT swap.
New power: Well, it's a 4B engine with a turbo. The guy I bought it from doesn't know what it originally came from but he got it from his buddy who had it in a 4Runner. The serial is unknown to Cummins and my local Case dealer and there is no badge, just an ESN stamped on the block. All other parts are genuine Cummins parts so I'm only a bit concerned that it might be a non-turbo and someone slapped an HX30W on it. Either way I'm going to be rebuilding it (after exhaustive research and slow and meticulous work per the Sticky's suggestions. Thanks Randy and others!)
Trans/TC: Dodge NV4500 with clutch and bellhousing set to arrive soon (Thanks Goat!) bolted to an Atlas 2 3.8 driver drop
Running gear: Ford Super 60 front and either the matching Sterling 10.5 or a Corp 14 that I have.
Suspension: 3-link front, upper triangulated 4-link rear
Steering: Saginaw for now. May install rams later IDK.
Tires: 37s or larger. The wheels must be 17" minimum and I'm not keen on running a spacer/adapter so I'm leaning toward the Sterling. Will mount with beadlocks.

Some pictures:

What it was:
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My son in the picture is now 14...
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How it looks after 11 years and four moves later...
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The axles. First Ford thing I've ever owned:
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And the mystery 4B(T). It has a 6BT manifold and HX30W.
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The ESN stamped on the block for anyone with the skills to find out where it came from.
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More to follow (MTF)
 

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I tried that ESN in Quick Serve and got nothing. Where on the block was that number stamped? On engines rebuilt by Cummins it is always on the back just below the head. If that is a valid Recon serial number, any Cummins dealer should be able to trace it. Those usually will not show up on Quick Serve. Which HX30W is on that manifold? Looks like it might be an industrial model. Sort of unusual to see one mounted in reverse position but no rule against that so long as the exhaust can be worked out. If the ID plate is on the turbo post those number and I might get you the specs on the turbo. There are 4 different sizes of HX30W. Another thing that might help ID the engine is the injection pump. Look for the ID plate on the pump and there should be a series of numbers. I might be able to get an idea from that.
 

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Doesn't a chopped 6BT manifold like that mean you have 3 cylinders feeding one port and 1 cylinder feeding the other?
 

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Dougal, you are correct, but the HX30W is an single scroll turbo so the exhaust pulses won't affect it to any extent. Most guys chop those manifolds with one port coming off each end which kind of keeps things in balance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wow I really appreciate the insight. I’ll admit I’m always learning something new and even comments in passing help out. Thanks!
As for the location of the stamp, it’s right where you’d expect it. Just forward of the oil cooler on the front passenger corner. As for the turbo specs and pump plate, I’ll check when I get home
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK I had to write over some of it to make it clearer. Here is the plate info on the VE:
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And here is the turbo plate:
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Dougal thanks for pointing out the manifold cut. I honestly haven't gotten far enough in to know what manifold I can use. The current setup may change once I mock the engine up in the bay.
 

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If my deciphering is correct. That's a 12mm VE pump which should be good for about 180cc/1000 shots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got some more done today. My son helped out now that he’s a little bigger. We stripped the front axle of brackets, lines, and links so we can have some more fun tomorrow with the plasma cutter.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you choose the 05+ Super 60 and decide to cut the link brackets off, be aware that it’s a messy messy business. But super satisfying.
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OK, found some info. First, the number stamped near the thermostat hole is not the serial #. If it were stamped on the block it will be on the back just below the head. Second, you injection pump part # you have outlined as 3017530 should be 3917530 which is an injection pump for CPL 0858. That is probably the most common 4bt road engine. Your turbo has part # 2835278 which is also found under Cummins numbers 4051167. 4051210, 13024082, and 13024854 is the Super HX30W. That is the largest single turbo you can use on these engines. Can't tell if you have it but the 90 deg air outlet for that turbo is the same as the HX35W. If you need part numbers on that I can get that for you. If you need a serial number to check for parts you can use 44553693 or 48106791. Those are the same engine with a different turbo arrangement and flywheel setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Thanks a ton for all this info!! You’re certainly right about the pump number. So many scratches on this thing makes it hard to tell and easy to assume. Lesson learned. I’ll dive into the numbers you gave me and do my due diligence. I really appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ran out and checked. Don’t see anything stamped on back but who knows until I can clean this thing up completely.
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as for the turbo…
It’s currently dumped out the hood so I’ll be needing a new 90 outlet. In retrospect that’s almost certainly why the manifold is cut that way so the turbo can mount further away from the windshield.
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Your engine was never rebuilt by Cummins so no serial number was stamped on the back. The outlet elbow can be had pretty cheap if you get it out of China. Here's a listing for one for $56.35 shipped. For Cummins Holset HX35 & HX40 6BTA 90° Turbo Air Transfer Pipe Intake Elbow | eBay If you want a genuine Cummins part the cost goes up considerably. The elbow is part 3918685, O ring gasket is 3883284, you'll need a 1/8" NPT plug if you don't use that hole for boost reference, and clamp 3923060. Probably around $100 for made in USA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Thanks for looking into that for me. I’m only doing this once on this rig so I don’t necessarily mind a little extra spend to reinforce the effort. Case in point, I could have designed and made my own engine-side brackets but decided to go with the FarmStrongInc universal mount kit. (I’m not plugging their product nor do I get anything from mentioning that I used it. Just laying out the option I chose for those to read.) Time is money and if it took me only 10 hours to mock it all up, source the right mounts and hardware, buy the metal, and design/cut/weld my own set (not to mention getting it right the first time out of the gate) then for $183.75 shipped it puts the cost at less than $20/hour which is cheapcheap labor for where I live.
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Those engine mounts may do OK but you're probably going to find they transfer quite a bit of vibration to the chassis. Also, that metal on those looks kind of thin. The 4bt is a 750 lb shaker. Never been a fan of spot welds on engine mounts either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hmm I definitely hear you. Here’s what I’m thinking. I looked into them before deciding on this set. The spot welds you are referring to are plug welds on the back side to fuse the two plates together. They’re obviously then bolted thru to the block, so they won’t really see too much stress unless the butt welds in the box fail. There are also a ton of good depth welds along seams given the discoloration around the heat-affected zone. I think a boxed 1/4” plate mount like this should be sufficient, but definitely interested to know what I’m missing especially if folks know of an actual failure to these with a failure mode?
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As for vibration, I can drill out the mounts if they are too stiff. Will definitely let you know how the vibrations turn out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Made some more progress on the front axle. Cutting two inches off the ductile iron housing gets rid of a set of plug welds so I may have to weld the seam or shore it up with the truss.
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If those are plug welds they should be fine. Have you mounted them to the block to check for clearance for the turbo oil drain?
 

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If those are plug welds they should be fine. Have you mounted them to the block to check for clearance for the turbo oil drain?
 
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