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Discussion Starter #121
Anybody recommend a good "universal" intercooler for the 4BT/HX30W setup? I'm shopping around and not finding much.
 

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Discussion Starter #122 (Edited)
Just found this one. I like the price. The dimensions seem "possible" though tight. Anyone care to chime in as to whether this thing would be sufficient?

[Edit]Scratch that! Upon more careful measuring and more thorough thinking I cannot fit that one at all.[/Edit]
 

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I'm running an ebay 2.5" universal intercooler and it's doing great. Surprisingly minimal fab work to fit all this in there with a stock size radiator.

Like this but black - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-12-pcs-2-5-BLACK-COUPLER-CHROME-PIPING-INTERCOOLER-KIT-T-Bolt-CLAMPS/321413275756?hash=item4ad5b9606c

I cut out the core support at the inside edges of the 2 vertical stiffeners.

I got a piece of 1/2" by 1" rectangular tubing to bridge the new gap. There are two round indentations in the backside tops of the vertical stiffeners for locating it. The grill/hood latch support bolts right up. The intercooler does not hit the grill

It holds the upper radiator mounts and the angle brackets for the intercooler. I wanted it all removable so all components are bolted on with nuts or in to weld nuts.
Lower radiator mounts will have to be fabbed. I used angle iron with the stock saddle mounts off the relocated crossmember
 

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Discussion Starter #128
A friend of mine just offered a relatively new and working HX40. Anyone ever mate that to the 4BT with good results? What needs to be done? From some searching it seems I might need to do some grinding. Any help or comments would be GREATLY appreciated!
 

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A friend of mine just offered a relatively new and working HX40. Anyone ever mate that to the 4BT with good results? What needs to be done? From some searching it seems I might need to do some grinding. Any help or comments would be GREATLY appreciated!
Yep, some grinding and cutting and welding to make the appropriate hot side plumbing so that you can run that hx40 sequentially with an hx30w. By itself, it is way too big for a 4bt
 

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Discussion Starter #130 (Edited)
Oh wow! So it is really only useful for twin turbo sequential setup then. Interesting! Thanks!

What would be the benefit of running both the HX40 and HX30W? More boost? Boost in a wider RPM range?
 

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What would be the benefit of running both the HX40 and HX30W? More boost? Boost in a wider RPM range?
Both. I had a HE221/WH1C combo. Very powerful. To fit, I wiped out some of the pass inner fender. Clutch couldnt hold the power.
 

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Twin turbos and diesels are just a good match. You're basically improving the efficiency of the single, lowering the EGT, and gaining power. Only bad thing is they take a bit more space. The most common ones we've seen on the 4bt have been the HX30W paired with an HX35W. Those two work well together. One member computed the ideal pair was an HX30W with 44mm inducer and an HX35W with the 14cm turbine housing. That housing is a bit uncommon and tends to be a bit pricey. The common 12cm does well so that's what most use. The WH1C is essentially the same turbo. You asked about the HX40W. There were 4 models of that one. They came with 8,7, and 6 blade compressor fans. The ideal model there is the Super HX40W which had the 6 blade fan and a 16cm turbine housing. There were actually 2 of those, one with a 56mm inducer and the other a 60mm. The smaller one is probably the absolute best. I have Super 40 and it even has the T3 exhaust flange like the HX30/35 series. Main issues would be of course it is bigger and uses a 4" exhaust. Main issue may be trying to keep the boost level down as Steve found out. If fuel is present those things will make power. Head studs are pretty much a given and if boost is getting into the 40+ PSI range the head should be O ring'd. Also, have to consider the torque the engine is putting out. At 250 HP you'll see around 625 lb ft at the crank. That can cause grief in other areas. Just have to be careful and not abuse it.
 

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Discussion Starter #134 (Edited)
Found out yesterday that while the starter I purchased roughly a year ago bolts PERFECTLY to the motor it does not engage with the flywheel at all. Trying to find the right starter now. There goes $169 on a starter I can't use.
 

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Does your adapter have a spacer on it? A pic may help.
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Does your adapter have a spacer on it? A pic may help.
It's in the shop that rebuilt it. They tried to start it up as their final test before I go pick it up. As best I could tell my adapter had no spacer. I have a ring that came from FoMoCoLoCo with the kit I bought for motor mounts, and the modified cross member. It didn't seem necessary when I installed the starter that the shop says will not work. The guy at the shop says the gear on the starter is too small to engage with the flywheel. The only pictures I can supply right now are old ones I took before I ever delivered it to the shop. Sadly I don't have any that seem helpful for the adapter.
 

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Do you know the part # of the starter you have? If you have the factory Cummins Ford adapter plate, it used a starter spacer for the stock starter which is the same on Ford or GM applications. If you use the Ford 7.3 starter the spacer is not needed. Sounds like your guys are telling you the starter gear is too small in diameter. That doesn't make sense. Could have possibly have gotten a hold of a 6.0 starter instead of the 7.3? Here's photos of the 2 styles of 7.3 starters. One was used from '83-93 and the other from '94-03.
 

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Discussion Starter #138
Do you know the part # of the starter you have? If you have the factory Cummins Ford adapter plate, it used a starter spacer for the stock starter which is the same on Ford or GM applications. If you use the Ford 7.3 starter the spacer is not needed. Sounds like your guys are telling you the starter gear is too small in diameter. That doesn't make sense. Could have possibly have gotten a hold of a 6.0 starter instead of the 7.3? Here's photos of the 2 styles of 7.3 starters. One was used from '83-93 and the other from '94-03.
Hmmm, I can't remember which of those I might have. I know for certain I got one for the 7.3L. Probably the '93 but I'm really not sure. I haven't looked at the starter in over a year. Do those two different models you posted pictures of have the same bolt pattern? Because as I said earlier the starter I have fit right into the adapter plate without the need of the spacer ring. Fit like a glove.
 

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Discussion Starter #139
It just occurred to me is it possible that in fact the flywheel is wrong? Maybe I have the Ford adapter plate and a Dodge 6BT flywheel? Anyone heard of, seen, experienced something like that?
 

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Discussion Starter #140
I just talked to the guy in the shop and ran my theory that the flywheel is actually the problem and he agrees at this point that is the most likely explanation. So anyone know what reman Ford flywheel part number I need? I'll start searching on my own now.
 
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