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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all. I am getting ready to start this swap, and will be posting pics and progress as I go along. First I have a question. I bought a 1995 12 v Cummins, p7100 pump etc. stock motor no mods, was in a 95' dodge 1 ton. It had water in the in the fuel system. Changed filter, cleaned the screen under fuel heater, primed and bled injectors, and ran it while it was on the engine hoist. That was yesterday. Today, I can't get fuel past the p pump. The fuel line going in is pressured up, but nothing at the "out" side of the pump to the injectors. What happened??? When I ran it, no knocks no pings, idled great, turbo worked nice, smoked like it should. Is it as simple as a clog? Do I need to replace the pump? All help appreciated. Will upload pics and video from computer when I get home.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
image.jpg

Ok so this is the truck. I guess I can't upload the video of the motor running on the hoist since it isn't on YouTube. Anyway, I am at work for 2 weeks, plenty of time to stew on the problem and get all available answers.

The truck pictured is as stated a 1979 k30, swb, srw, and I have never seen another one. It has a 454 with sm 465, not ideal, motor is screaming at 65 mph, and goes from 6 mpg to probably 2. It is NOT my DD, I have a 2013 Ram 2500 w/ 6.7, and a beater SUV little thing that gets surprisingly good mileage. I am doing this swap for practical uses. I LOVE this truck and enjoy driving it. I just can't get very far without filling it back up. Getting old. So this will be a slow start, but like I said, any help appreciated
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It does sound earily similar, only the motor has no solenoid, I used the lever to shut it down manually. I just wonder if I didn't suck some trash into the pump that won't let it pump the fuel through. It just perplexes me that it ran perfect the day before, I changed nothing, and yesterday it wouldn't do anything but drain batteries and blow white smoke. Of course, I'm sure that's how ALL problems start. Go from normal to junk in less than 8 hours. So do I replace the overflow valve?
 

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Pull off your overflow valve and see if some trash is in the spring and check ball. Had that happen after I did my swap and it wouldn't idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have ordered another OFV, it will be here in a few days. I never pulled it out, but I did back it off several rounds, and never got anything didn't get any fuel. But i never checked for trash there. Thanks for the reply. Let ya know what I find out!
 

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I'm going to ask the dumb questions...did you go back through your supply line and make sure all the fittings/connections were tight, not drawing any air? Re-reading your post maybe it's still on the stand? When my truck wouldn't idle, I confirmed the OFV by pinching the return line to help build some fuel pressure...you could try that. When you primed, did you use the primer on the lift pump or the old trucker trick of pressurizing the fuel tank? Priming off the lift pump you should hear that OFV release...do you? Really dumb one now, but did you maybe leave a rag in the turbo or the intercooler intake? Mine wouldn't rev hardly at all when I got the air filter wet, then the dust kind of cemented it shut...point is, it would blow white smoke. One more dumb one, when you tried to start after the filter change and prime, did you goose it to help burb the air out of the injector lines? I'm just typing as I think of things...if I'm not making sense just let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It is still on the hoist, I am assembling all the big parts I can before I pull the 454 and tranny and put the 5.9 and new tranny in. I haven't really had a chance to do any diagnostics yet, since I've been home from work we had to have a horse and a dog put down, and the wife is NOT well over it. I am about to head out to the barn and get started in a little bit, so I will update when I find something out. I might delete the fuel heater while I'm there, just because I know it needs done. I'm sure i will have a question or two in a couple hours. Thanks for the reply!
 

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I deleted my fuel heater while it was on the floor too. I'd say gut it to eliminate a leak source. I'm leaning towards you need to burp it by giving the throttle a pump or two while trying to start it. I've had to do that after fuel filter changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
[video]https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=vb.100000235616004&type=2[/video]

One last time

OK. After all the failed attempts at loading the video, I was not feeling nearly so good about myself getting the motor to start again. So anyway, the motor runs great. It finally settled in nicely after "burping" (thanks Matt) and burning up 2 old but fully charged batteries. Once the air finally bled she rumbled to life. Sad to say that I will have this to do all over again many times between now and the time I get it in the truck, but it IS doable.

So Matt, do you have any helpful pointers that you ran into when pulling the switch on your suburban?
 

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Sure...

1) pick up a 4" 1st gen downpipe from a vendor. it drops down 90 degrees right of the turbo and will fit your firewall.
2) i put a 1410 yoke on my 14bolt for peace of mind
3) i used the chevy 4 core radiator in my burb. drove it all last summer w/o a fan trying to figure out what i wanted to do...no problems with over heating.
4) deciding how to mount the motor was the biggets pain. i bounced around between the couple of guys that were making them at the time and settled on TND. when i put this motor in my '70 pickup I'll prob just take the time to fab my own and use 3rd gen dodge engine mounts.
5) if you have the dodge truck, grab the intercooler mounts off the core support and use them.
6) do the kdp and reseal everything...sounds like you prob already know that.
7)what trans are you using? I used the nv4500 from the donor so i swapped in some hydro pedals from a later chevy and used a mid 90's ford f350/460 truck clutch master.
8) what are you doing for brakes? i converted to chevy hydro and went to a 2wd steering box to do crossover steering.
9) are you going to put a locking cable on the fuel shutoff? that makes things even easier if you do.
10) i used a for voltage regulator with the dodge alternator. no problems, holds a steady charge like its supposed to.
11) i only used one battery, turns it over fine. prob add a second one if i ever get a winch.
12) i added a 4kgsk, zero plate, and blocked the wastegate line AFTER i swapped the motor in and made sure it ran. the big burb feels like a racecar now!

The actual swap is pretty easy. I tell people it was hard getting the original motor/trans out than it was to get the cummins in.

I hardly check this board anymore so if you have some questions just shoot me an email at mattoliver426 at hotmail
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I plan on using a 47rh. This will require a new steering column, because I have an sm465 now, and since I would have to change clutches anyway, I decided to go AT. also my wife is too short to shift gears, so she would like it. I am running hydraboost, since the truck is already equipped with it. I planned on using a shut off solenoid, but I may wait a while before I do that. Don't have the dodge truck, but the guy I bought the motor from gave me the intercooler, and I don't remember if the mounts were on it or not. Question: what are the advantages of x-over steering, and would I be able to get by without doing it?

I have only been able to start this motor using two old batteries and using my running 2013 dodge 2500 with 2 sets of jumper cables for steady charge, but then, I e had to bleed air every time too. One battery will do eh? I probably will send u an email later tonight, I got called in to work this week so I will have planning time.
 

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Yes, you can get by without crossover. It's really helpful when you get your front end articulating...if you drop your driver's side wheel down to end of its travel, say in a rut, you lose any steering till you get it out. i did it because i was only about half way to either vacuum or hydro....my '77 steering box wouldn't hook up to the powersteering lines from the dodge pump or else I would've stuck with the vacuum brakes. so, i figured if i want hydroboost i'll swap the steering box out too so all the lines will fit. i figure if i'm swaping boxes i'll just go the extra step and get a 2wd box and do crossover.

I think the battery i have is 1000cca, but i'll check tomorrow. its definitely not less than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looks like it will be a couple weeks before I will be able to get anything done, I may be at work longer than I expected... Will update as soon as I get back into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK, back home from work and started on trying to install some of the goodies I have ordered.
1.) Gauge cluster w/ factory tach- I fried the printed circuit on that this morning, and broke off the speedo cable tip in the speedometer receiver. :pissed:
2.) OFV arrived and installed
3.) auto/hydraboost brake pedal assy (didnt install yet, but did clean, primed, and painted for install.
4.) conversion motor mounts and crossmember (havent started that yet)

Other stuff ordered
1.) Steering column with auto shift on column (rebuilt, will be here next week)
2.) new speedo cable to replace the previously perfectly good cable that I destroyed (here Tuesday)
3.) another printed circuit to be ordered soon.

I also started on the rear shock mount that had the sheared shock stud. ground off all rivet heads, drove out the two that are frame side, but cant get a good swing while lying on my back on the top two. Or perhaps it could be the picture in my head of my busted, bleeding, swelling, throbbing hand after a miss-swing. Will be taking it to a suspension shop Tuesday, where they most likely will have a rivet buster or something similar that can handle the job.:D

As Ive said before. You guys make this look too easy. I seem to get all kinds of confidence reading other people's threads and seeing THEIR progress, but so far I have screwed up 50% of the parts I have installed, and I havent even started to install the motor yet. But I guess if it costs you 2-3 times what it should at least you get experience, or whatever non-sense would be appropriate to say at a time like this...
 

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Just an FYI for the future on hard / no starting, I deleted my heater earlier today and had similar symptoms. I had to work the primer over 100 times to get the valve to release, once primed she fired right up.
 
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