4" spring lift
To eliminate any interference of the front axle to oil pan I installed a 4" skyjacker spring lift.
To eliminate any interference of the front axle to oil pan I installed a 4" skyjacker spring lift.
1980 Scout RePower to 4BTA, Dec. 2001
This is a repost of my build. I originally had linked to webshots but they changed their focus to something else and I saved everything and deleted the account. I've had several members wanting to know where my repower thread was, so here it is:
edit 2021 05 22 Added links:
High EGTs with the H1C
Still have High EGTs
HE221W turbo install
Charge Air Cooler install
Cold Air Intake
Controlled Mileage Test
37 Gallon Fuel Tank install
Boost Delay
Power Steering Pump R&R
When I bought the Scout it came had the SD33T Nissan Diesel, T19 transmission and a Dana 300 T case. After a couple of tanks of fuel I found it consumed a gallon of engine oil at the same time, not so good. My first idea was to buy a NOS Diesel, found one at JESCO for $6000 (2001 Prices). So after looking at a rebuild prices, parts, I also looked at the history of the engine. The SD33T has a history of a short life, cracking the pistons within 100K miles or less. About this time I discovered that Cummins made a 4 cylinder version of the 6B in my Dodge. Remember this 2001, no 4BTswaps, no one new anything about swapping a 4B into anything.
So in December of 2001 i started the repower.
This is what I started with:
edit 2021 05 22 Added links:
High EGTs with the H1C
Still have High EGTs
HE221W turbo install
Charge Air Cooler install
Cold Air Intake
Controlled Mileage Test
37 Gallon Fuel Tank install
Boost Delay
Power Steering Pump R&R
When I bought the Scout it came had the SD33T Nissan Diesel, T19 transmission and a Dana 300 T case. After a couple of tanks of fuel I found it consumed a gallon of engine oil at the same time, not so good. My first idea was to buy a NOS Diesel, found one at JESCO for $6000 (2001 Prices). So after looking at a rebuild prices, parts, I also looked at the history of the engine. The SD33T has a history of a short life, cracking the pistons within 100K miles or less. About this time I discovered that Cummins made a 4 cylinder version of the 6B in my Dodge. Remember this 2001, no 4BTswaps, no one new anything about swapping a 4B into anything.
So in December of 2001 i started the repower.
This is what I started with:
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Before, clean out and reinforcing the frame. I though it needed because of the low end torque of the 4B.
One thing that welding the reinforcement taught me was, I needed a bigger welder. The Miller 130, 120V was not up the task, duty cycle was too low and to get good penetration I had to weld in multiple layers. Found a "sale" on a Miller 210 with spool gun, life is good.
One thing that welding the reinforcement taught me was, I needed a bigger welder. The Miller 130, 120V was not up the task, duty cycle was too low and to get good penetration I had to weld in multiple layers. Found a "sale" on a Miller 210 with spool gun, life is good.
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Engine mounts
First version of the engine mounts.
First version of the engine mounts.
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Successful test fit. I was using the Chevy trans mount, mounting the engine upright and letting the transmission rotate to the drivers side. At this point I thought it was important to get the gear shifter to come up where the original one had been. This would later haunt me when I needed to put in the charge air cooler.
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Clutch master and slave cylinder fitment.
I needed to keep the clutch pedal pressure as "light" as possible due to a complaining knee. The bell crank gave me the adjustment I needed. After the final adjustment the lever where the clevis attaches it looks like Swiss cheese from all the different settings I tried.
The arm going up the master cylinder would later prove to be flexing too much. I laminated the arm with another 1/4" of material to prevent the flex.
I needed to keep the clutch pedal pressure as "light" as possible due to a complaining knee. The bell crank gave me the adjustment I needed. After the final adjustment the lever where the clevis attaches it looks like Swiss cheese from all the different settings I tried.
The arm going up the master cylinder would later prove to be flexing too much. I laminated the arm with another 1/4" of material to prevent the flex.
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Hydraboost is from a 82 Cadillac. Didn't know about the chevy astro vans set up.
Looking up from under neath, the exhaust is going to need some room.
Looking up from under neath, the exhaust is going to need some room.
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The Scout spent the first 14 years of it's life in Minnesota, yea lots of rust, but nothing a speed limit sign can't fix.
The bump for the exhaust makes for a good foot rest.
The small bump is for clearance for the T case.
The bump for the exhaust makes for a good foot rest.
The small bump is for clearance for the T case.
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Trans Crossmember
I was able to reuse the factory trans crossmember and mount it in the original position, pure luck! I had to cut out a small piece to clear the front drive shaft and add a little reinforce. Again luck prevailed, I was able to reuse the front drive shaft, no shortening or lengthening.
One of the benefits of having a right side exhaust and a right side T case drop is you have to snake the exhaust around to the left.
I was able to reuse the factory trans crossmember and mount it in the original position, pure luck! I had to cut out a small piece to clear the front drive shaft and add a little reinforce. Again luck prevailed, I was able to reuse the front drive shaft, no shortening or lengthening.
One of the benefits of having a right side exhaust and a right side T case drop is you have to snake the exhaust around to the left.
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Engine Mounts revisited
I revised the right side engine mount to hold the AC pump, aka Dodge 6B mounts. I could not use the Dodge mount because of the starter motor being on the right side, used a Sanden generic direct mount.
By extending the alternator bracket I was able to use the 90-93 Dodge serpentine belt. This routing turned out to be a mixed blessing. I was able to keep the Delco alt that came with the 4B and have my AC too, But the belt slipped on the alt, squealed under heavy demand. Theres a reason that alternators have 180 degree wrap around the pulley!
I revised the right side engine mount to hold the AC pump, aka Dodge 6B mounts. I could not use the Dodge mount because of the starter motor being on the right side, used a Sanden generic direct mount.
By extending the alternator bracket I was able to use the 90-93 Dodge serpentine belt. This routing turned out to be a mixed blessing. I was able to keep the Delco alt that came with the 4B and have my AC too, But the belt slipped on the alt, squealed under heavy demand. Theres a reason that alternators have 180 degree wrap around the pulley!
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Coolant tube
The long term goal was to change out the front accessories on the 4B to all Dodge eventually. In the mean time I used a coolant tube to connect the bottom radiator hose to the engine. A small fortune in copper by todays standards.
The long term goal was to change out the front accessories on the 4B to all Dodge eventually. In the mean time I used a coolant tube to connect the bottom radiator hose to the engine. A small fortune in copper by todays standards.
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First finish
The turbo cross over tube had to be shortened 3/4" to clear the hood.
Used an electric fan, a Flex-a-lite Black-Magic 150. Quickly learned that that it doesn't work that well in AZ in the summer and I didn't even have the AC functioning at that point.
The turbo cross over tube had to be shortened 3/4" to clear the hood.
Used an electric fan, a Flex-a-lite Black-Magic 150. Quickly learned that that it doesn't work that well in AZ in the summer and I didn't even have the AC functioning at that point.
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First Trip April 2002
On the inaugural trip I learned that the Scout needs a muffler! The reverberation wasn't too bad in town, but on the road it got annoying real quick. Good thing I brought ear plugs.
Somewhere on N. Casabel Rd.
On the inaugural trip I learned that the Scout needs a muffler! The reverberation wasn't too bad in town, but on the road it got annoying real quick. Good thing I brought ear plugs.
Somewhere on N. Casabel Rd.
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On your belt routing, if you would make a bracket and mount a non tensioning idler just below the water pump pulley, then change the routing to from the fan hub to the alternator to the water pump to the ac to the idler back to the crank. This would give you much better wrap on both the alternator and ac. You'd just need a different length belt. That would make it similar to the Ford ac set up. Here's a photo of the Ford set up.
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You beat me to my latest version. I'm currently running a Dodge front accessories aka 94 Dodge. Lots of wrap.
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Couple of questions if you don't mind since I have the exact same starting point except mine is currently a 304.
1. I've received conflicting reports on whether or not I need a 2.5" or 4" lift. Can you please solve my conundrum once and for all? Can you tell me approximately how much clearance you have between the pan and your Dana 44? Maybe a pic head on if you don't mind...? I really want to go with a 2.5", but if I have to I'll run a 4". I'm looking at 32x11.50x15's, so a bit smaller than yours. No wheeling in my future, so I'm not overly concerned with travel. I think I'll do a reverse shackle while I'm at it though. I'm getting to the point that I need to order one or the other, so I have to decide. I guess I could always wait until after the swap? What's your recommendation?
2. Where exactly did you put your motor? It seems like I remember a post where you said you would have rather had it 3" another direction. Did you measure from your firewall or grill or something else?
3. Did you double back to your passenger side for your exhaust or did you just exit on the driver's side?
Thanks for your help
One more thing, why did you choose to not go with a factory Dodge Slave cylinder?
1. I've received conflicting reports on whether or not I need a 2.5" or 4" lift. Can you please solve my conundrum once and for all? Can you tell me approximately how much clearance you have between the pan and your Dana 44? Maybe a pic head on if you don't mind...? I really want to go with a 2.5", but if I have to I'll run a 4". I'm looking at 32x11.50x15's, so a bit smaller than yours. No wheeling in my future, so I'm not overly concerned with travel. I think I'll do a reverse shackle while I'm at it though. I'm getting to the point that I need to order one or the other, so I have to decide. I guess I could always wait until after the swap? What's your recommendation?
2. Where exactly did you put your motor? It seems like I remember a post where you said you would have rather had it 3" another direction. Did you measure from your firewall or grill or something else?
3. Did you double back to your passenger side for your exhaust or did you just exit on the driver's side?
Thanks for your help
One more thing, why did you choose to not go with a factory Dodge Slave cylinder?
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