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I'd say you could either go to a trophy shop and have another tag engraved if you are set on having the tag on the engine or just hand engrave the CPL on the engine. Mine was long gone on mine. No CPL was a bummer but I have managed without.
 

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Discussion Starter #282 (Edited)
Had to drill out one rivet on the rear of the block and a partial on the other. The side of the block with the exhaust manifold rivet hole for the data plate is short of 1/2 inch deep. Seemingly a rivet #9 x 1/2 inch should work (or self tapping screw). The other side is a different story. Nothing was behind the rivet. The drill bit fell in about 2 inches 😯 after I drilled throught the rivet. I wondered if the hole was intentionally that way or a previous owner drilled through to the tappet area. Now, i am not sure I went to the tappet area as I did hit something hard. That is scary at best when drilling through. I will seal this with a drive rivet or screw to be sure. 😁 5/18/20. I have positioned the engine with the flywheel up. I blew into rivet hole and it looks like the water side of the block. I will be able to tap and plug, hopefully with the data plate connected as well.

Elbonk, the tag is readable and reusable. I have to add a washing to one side as the hole is broken open at one side. I do like the additional information on the tag. If I could get another Cummins tag (blank with the categories) and have it engraved that would be cool.
 

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Discussion Starter #283 (Edited)
When installing the front seal, do you use sealant around the outside of the seal? I have watched Youtube videos which the installer states it is dry and others state RTV sealant goes around the outside.

Found a youtube video that explains it. The answer is sometimes you do and other times you do not. It depends on the seal.

Here is the Youtube video:
 

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On the front crank seal, that just goes into the front housing dry. Not likely to leak where it contacts the housing. The one big issue is make sure the crank is totally clean and dry. There must be no oil or grease on that surface or the seal is guaranteed to leak. If the crank area is a bit worn or rough you'll need to install a sleeve and that will require a matching seal for that purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Thanks Charles, Got the seal and sleeve. I just received the install tool for both. Probably didn't need to, but they should (hopefully) guarantee success.
 

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Discussion Starter #286 (Edited)
In an effort to clear the front differential, I decided to modify the pan as Johnpp77 in his build thread: 85 Chevy 4x4 4bt 4l80E I did not finish the pan but got as far as cutting out the pan and fitting up what needs to be welded. Somehow ended up with a sprained right knee.
 

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Discussion Starter #287
I attempted my stick welder and found out that it wasn't a great choice on the practice welds. I picked up a flux core welder and will begin practicing using it before getting to the oil pan and pickup tube.

Switched gears due to the rain. Started working the fuse panel project. Still hoping it works out. I started by scanning the fuse panel to get an actual size. Pixel by pixel, I labeled the drawing. I finally printed it and cut out the sections I needed after laminating the whole panel. I do not recommend laminating the the fuse panel drawing. As soon as you cut it out the laminate comes off. I used DAP Rapid Fuse Glue which is better than super glue. I will spray some clear laquer on the panel to (hopefully) seal the new labels.

Not the greatest job, but it will be hidden from view. I was ultimately trying for functionality.
 

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Don't need a sprained knee. What are your plans for the drain plug? The 6bt had theirs in the bottom but I believe it was a flush mounted plug. If you don't plan on climbing over rocks and stumps you could mount your old plug down below. You mentioned the pickup so I guess this cut means it gets modified. On the welding, did you think about maybe taking it to a muffler shop? Those guys weld thin metal all the time and it needs to be leak free.
 

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Discussion Starter #289
Past the sprained knee. Now have a left shoulder issue. Not sure what is going on. I do like the idea of a muffler shop but do want the first crack at this. So far the engine has been all me save my neighbor who helped lay the head on the block and the machine shop who did the machining.... and the welder who welded my tappet cover vent together. As far as the oil pan, I have moved the drain caddy-corner. I am not a rock climber or anything else of the sort. This will be a daily driver and that is pretty much it. I have an issue with the rivet that I was dealing with earlier. It seems part of the old plug or rivet is still in the hole and I will need to drill, tap and plug. I was disappointed that the last person who worked on this engine tried to drill the rivet and drilled through to the water passage. It is what it is.
 

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