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Discussion Starter #321
My bread van came with electric fans. I still have them but did not plan (until now) to use them. I have not considered running the fans in the front as you did. I find it interesting and worthy of thought. I found a deal on a G-Force adapter plate as well. That caused me to have to change my starter to a Ford 6.4L starter. The changes here are killing me. Thanks for the picture.
 

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That pan gasket doesn't look too good. Appears to be torn in places where the bolt holes are. That AC belt is definitely too short. My guess is that belt was for the AC setup like found on Case backhoes. Similar to the one you have but doesn't have that idler pulley arrangement. Engines with that style AC mount didn't have that front cover oil fill spout. You'll need the little plug to fill the hole. Cummins part 3903463 plus O ring part 3903475. There is also a mechanical fan that mounts on the front of that V belt pulley. It ain't cheap. Mill Supply sells the clutch part 85-160 for $324 and the fan blade part 85-175 for $216. Double ouch! See photos below. Saw a few of these units on the net for $75. I assume those are used. Might also find those at Freightliner. There is also a replacement clutch unit coming out of China part 1308D5-050 but don't know the price on that one and most places show no stock right now.
 

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My bread van had a small 4 blade electric fan - very small, no shroud - and it went straight to the trash. I suspect that the cooling requirements for the AC condenser are bigger than the cooling requirements for the 4bt.

Also, if I had stacked the AC condenser, Intercooler and radiator, the requirement for air flow would have increased - as each component adds heat load to the next component in the stack.

128912

I recently installed AC in this customized 1962 Volvo PV544. 12 pounds of mechanical "stuff" in a 5 pound sack. Overloaded the cooling system, it did not like stop and go traffic at all, and wanted to vapor lock. It has challenged my mechanical and electrical skills.
 

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The second issue is the AC compressor mount (aftermarket) which sits on the head. I will need to reposition the oil fill tube to a valve cover. The belt was way too small as well. This also brings in another issue with the AC. I planned on using the 6bt set up with a mechanical fan. I didn't know how unique the 4BT fan pulley was. The pulley for this AC set up would only fit on the 4BT fan pulley assembly. Since I already purchased the compressor and mount, I didn't want to go with an alternate mount set up which would require a new mount, compressor, and belt. That is before looking at the tensioner assembly issue.

View attachment 128907
The Cummins part number for the valve cover with fill hole is 3928405. I purchased a genuine Cummins made in China valve cover in 12/2019 from a vendor on eBay for $32. The quality of the part was great.
 

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Discussion Starter #325
Thanks all, but the electric fan will have to suffice. I hate throwing good money after bad. I am going to settle on what I have and move forward. The pan gasket is the question. The one I have looked like junk after tightening the pan bolts. The gasket never should have done that given the minimal torque values. I have been considering replacing it since I said I wouldn't. I hate to leave something to chance.
 

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You don’t need no stinking pan “gasket”! Use Permatex Right Stuff. Use it on on your side cover as well. It is the right stuff. And while you got the pan off take your pickup tube to that professional welder as well. That’s a place that definitely needs someone who knows what they’re doin. Said I was gonna stay off this website account some of the idiots that have to put their two cents in but hate to see you make a mistake that could be costly. There’s a lot of good guys that know there stuff on this site and unfortunately a few jerks. You’ll learn who to trust. Good luck with your project.
 

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Discussion Starter #327 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice welderwhiskey195. I am disappointed in the pan gasket for sure. On the other side of the engine, I found the access hole cover and a new valve cover with an oil fill.

Corsa Velocita Valve Cover.PNG


I also decided to start building an engine stand. I do not want to run the engine on the current stand that holds the engine in the air so here is my wood stand. I still need to bolt in the angle iron supports.
Engine Stand.jpg
Engine Stand Supports.jpg
Valve Cover 1.PNG
 

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Now that's a seriously nice valve cover. Cummins offered 2 of the plain Jane valve covers with oil fill spots. One is Cummins 3928405 cover, 3901895 cap, and 3902363 seal shown in photo #1 below. This is the one we commonly see and is pretty cheap. The second is kind of rare. Cummins part 3282758 and 3863454 cap shown is photo #2. Down at the local Cummins store that set is around $200. From China they are around $25 + frt. Bit of price mark up there. LOL. Have to be careful using permatex only on the oil pan. Clearance on the 2 rear bolts that go into the crank seal housing are pretty tight. If the bolts go in too deep they will crack that aluminum housing.
 

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Discussion Starter #329
Thanks, char1355, I have a set of them, just none with the oil fill tube. The set was about $150.00 if I remember correctly. This little devil (Corsa Velocita Valve cover with oil fill) is $53.00 plus $12.50 shipping. I am amazed by the turmoil caused in a build due to one rogue modification. To the valve cover, I have to find a deliberate place to put the tee-handle so it does not get lost.
 

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Discussion Starter #330
As far as the pan bolts and specifically the bolts that bolt up to the oil seal housing, I am using the stock Cummins bolts for the entire pan. I do not want to create any more issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #331
Finished the engine stand. I put the engine on it and have a couple of adjustments to make. The wheels came from Harbor Freight (5 inches) and each hold 330 lbs. The third wheel in middle is an overkill. Also, I received the new valve cover and the injection nut cover. I wish progress was quicker but I work during the week.

Engine Stand Completed.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #332 (Edited)
Installed the starter. I have a G-Force adapter plate and thought everything would line up okay. Nothing was okay with the adapter plate. The lower main bolt hole did not line up to starter (see picture) and I had to enlarge every non threaded hole whether it was on the adapter or starter, three total. I finally got it to work, but now have questions about how the transmission will align.

starter hole not aligned.jpg
Starter Installed.jpg
 

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The reason I mentioned the oil pan bolts was there were variations on some of the 4bt's. Don't know who's bright idea it was, but the 2 bolt that went into the crank seal housing were 1mm shorter than the other 26 bolts. 2 were 20mm long and the rest were 21mm long. That 21mm bolt was a custom part available only from Cummins. There was really no reason for that and in later models they were all 20mm. Those 21mm bolts were just a problem looking for a place to happen. People never realized they may have 2 different lengths and that extra 1mm could end up cracking the housing when they bottomed out.
 

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Discussion Starter #334
I am glad you said something. I checked the parts list from the CPL and found all of the oil pan bolts were the same. Might have been a sad day if you were right and I did not check. Thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #335
Oil Pressure Sensor: I looked at the hose and the two oil pressure sensors. The big one is the pressure sensor, right? what was the other one for. I took it out of the Grumman van this way and did not follow the wiring to see what it connected to. See pics.

I am planning to keep this setup to reduce the engine vibrations to the sensors. Looks like that was the original intent as the block has a few direct connection points.

Two Oil Sensors with Hose.jpg
Two Oil Sensors.jpg
 

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Tom,

A couple of comments.

1. The barrel shaped object is a sender for an electric gauge. Unless you are reusing the oil pressure gauge from the Grumman, replace it with a new sender that matches the new gauge.

2. The smaller sender is a grounding pressure switch. It is grounded until the oil pressure comes up - typically connected to:

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Red light glows brightly and the buzzer sounds like a pissed-off rattlesnake in a tin garbage can - It does get your attention. I use the original Grumman buzzer for an oil pressure warning in my F150. Also use one of these buzzers in my 1962 Volvo as a parking brake warning (55 years later, I have another PV544 (looks like a shrunken 1946 Ford sedan) - Still have not trained myself to release the parking brake <sigh>).


3. You will need to provide a ground path - Unless that is a metallic covered hose - Check with an ohmmeter.

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #337
Thanks Russ!!!

Can I utilize the sender from the 6.2 diesel that is currently in the truck?
 

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Thanks Russ!!!

Can I utilize the sender from the 6.2 diesel that is currently in the truck?
YES - If you are using the 6.2 diesel dash - Just verify that the sender case has a good ground.

4bt and 6bt engines have a reputation for killing oil pressure senders. I don't have a reference at my fingertips. I am using a Glowshift snubber.

 

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Discussion Starter #339
Russ, I pulled the trigger on the new pressure sensors (2) and the buzzer you listed. Thanks for helping me understand what seems now to be basic information. I checked the hose with an ohm meter and the hose does conduct a ground.
 

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You are welcome - This knowledge is the accumulated result of 75 years worth of mistakes <wink>.
 
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