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Discussion Starter #461
That tensioner is far over to the left. The fan drive looks to be adjusted to the left as well (looking head-on). The only issue is the water outlet is right there. I wonder where it was relocated to.

As far as the compressor groove on my 4BT; the compressor has a dual pulley. The pulley on the engine seems to line up to the forward pulley. Thinking about the tensioner, I would only have to move it over a bit. It would be one tapped hole and shouldn't make too much difference. If it did not work I am out nothing but a bit of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #462
I was also looking at the existing engine mounts. I had an idea...

1) remove the old mounts and the cross member which bolts in front of it.
2) use angle iron to bolt to the frame to give me a platform for the fluid mounts.

The angle iron is 6 x 8 inch and 1/2 inch thick. (not your standard angle iron). Since I have no discernable welding skills I will bolt these to the frame and use the 8-inch section as the platform. I might tack weld a bar linking the two and have it welded at a welding shop in town. We will see, as I am still thinking this out.

The only issue I am having now is figuring out how to measure where they go.

I will replace the transfer case adapter mounts (rubber).

Looking at the Engine Mount Issue.jpg The New Frame Mount.jpg The Other Frame Mount.jpg Transfer Case Adapter Mount.jpg
 

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Great thread, I'm enjoying following along. On your motor mounts, will you add gussets to the angle iron or you thinking 1/2" won't bend?

I'm working on a similar mount design in the same frame and wanted to share a pic. maybe give you some more options. I've since cut the C-channel down to fit inside the frame rails. The idea is that the C channel will be bolted to the frame, creating a flat surface so I can bolt a section of angle iron to it. Mine are only 3/8" thick, I do plan on adding gussets.

130079
 

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Discussion Starter #464 (Edited)
Joshuak, I have complete confidence in the integrity of a 1/2 inch angle iron holding a 4BT without gussets. If gussets were used, I would bolt them on. My current setup has thinner metal and it is bolted on as well. Thanks for following. I am trying to document and post pictures along the way. I learned from other threads this way. Chronicling the build is the way to go. Not just to assist others but to remember what went into the build.

My angle iron was found on eBay and cost $41.13. I like your idea and see it can work. My plan is to bolt the angle iron to the outside of the frame and have the 8" section protruding from underneath the c-channel (Frame). I measured the width needed on the engine stand and it looks like my mounts are 19 inches apart (approximately). That is bolt hole to bolt hole. You will need to measure to ensure you have the room for your set up. I will need to do the same and may have to shave off a bit of the angle iron if it is too close to the engine. We shall see going forward. I plan to use three bolts per side (14mm) with lock nuts.
 

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Your are correct about the far left position of that tensioner bracket. That one requires the vertical coolant outlet which was pretty much standard on industrial and marine engines where that bracket was used. . Always has to be some drawback in moving things. Sort of interesting that your ac compressor has a dual groove pulley. That expensive marine crank pulley is also dual groove. See photo below. Might have to connect the ac belt and see where the tensioner has to be. You could even make a new bracket. Those things aren't that complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter #466
Okay, I think I got this figured out. The problem with my set-up is the tensioner moves the belt into the tensioner for the main drive belt. Looking at it, I thought I would do better if the belt were to ride on the backside of the belt. I still have more work to do but the pictures show the jist of what I am thinking. I need to weld a tab on the bottom side of the compressor mount and change the grooved pulley to a flat pulley. By welding a tab, I will be able to move the tensioner downward and pull the belt away from the other (main) tensioner. I removed the belt tensioner and put the pulley from and an old 4BT tensioner I had lying around. Look at the pictures.

The last picture is my Christmas gift from my son. Perfect!!!
 

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That looks like a winner. That also gives you a better wrap on the pulley. A company called Kenway Engineering makes dozens of different ac brackets for the Cummins engines. Only a few have the tension wheel inside the belt and those have the main belt pulley in a high position so that belt couldn't hit the tensioner. The vast majority of their brackets don't use a tension pulley for the ac. Here's a link to their catalog. Only issue with their brackets is they ain't cheap. They were used in a lot of industrial applications.
 

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Discussion Starter #468 (Edited)
Almost complete with the AC mount. I welded another piece of metal and extended the mount sideways so I could drill another hole lower than the existing hole (You can see at the hole to bolt the tensioner on is at the top and no room is provided to drill a hole any lower). By adding a piece of metal I am able to lower the tensioner. I added a gusset to the back for strength, although probably didn't need it. The final result was that I was able to lower the tensioner down about three inches and create more clearance for the main drive belt tensioner.

Cutting Metal for AC Mount.jpg Fit up for AC mount.jpg Tensioner Lowered.jpg Gusset Added to New Tab .jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #469
I purchased the Destroked adapter plate. I had questions about the G-Force plate which I installed since the bolt holes did not align perfectly with the starter. I had to drill out the lower hole about 1/8 inch to make it work. I also saw the issues on another post where the adapter plate was off-center by 0.037 and it caused the member to go through four torque converters before he found and fixed the problem.

After all the great testimonials it seemed Destroked was the adapter to use. The problem I encountered was the starter would not fit in the mounting hole without sanding a bit of metal from the opening. Otherwise, the bolt holes matched up perfectly and the starter now has a snug fit. On the other side, I have a G-Force Adapter (For Chevy Transmission) for sale.

I was also able to change a dowel from the block to the adapter since one of them was dented in a bit.

Starter Mount on Destroked Adapter.jpg
 

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That's a bit odd on the Destroked adapter. Are you using a Ford 6.0 diesel starter? I know on some of theirs you have to trim the block skirt but they specify that in the instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter #471
Very odd from what I have heard about the adapters. I am using a Ford 6.4L starter which should have the same housing as the 6.0L. It fits perfectly now.

As for the truck, I removed the old engine mounts and cross member. I opened the AC evaporator as well to see what has built up over the years. I will change the AC Evaporator. I didn't expect the cross-member to come out with so much difficulty. My neighbor and I took turns chiseling the heads of the rivets hold that thing on. We removed nine rivets total with a few other things that needed removal and my arms are like jello. A good day's work for the truck.
 

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As far as I know, the 6.4 and 6.0 starters should interchange. Was your 6.4 a Ford starter or an aftermarket unit. Sometimes those aftermarket units have variations in part sizes. The Destroked adapters are very precision made unless someone let the specs get off during the manufacturing process. Those things are made on a CNC mill so they shouldn't vary.
 

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Discussion Starter #473
Great question. The starter was an aftermarket item. The starter fit the G-Force adapter well until you went to bolt it up. The bolt holes on those are not aligned correctly. I ended up drilling some on the lower bolt hole. As far as Destroked, that may have been right on the money. It wasn't far off as far as the sanding I did to make the starter fit snuggly. For now, I am happy with the adapter. We shall see 👀 when it gets on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #475
Most definitely Russ. I am working to clean the frame up this week. The transmission mounts (rubber) came in so things will continue to progress. I also am running new fuel lines on the driver's side of the truck. The Chevy 6.2 requires fuel lines on the passenger's side. Still so much to do and having fun doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #476 (Edited)
Did some work on the AC today with my neighbor. We changed the Evaporator Coils. The old one looks like it had never been cleaned. Although it did not leak, we changed the evaporator coils anyway. My neighbor brought some 3M sealant which appears to be made for the job. You can see it seeping out of the seam where the housing fits together. It was also used to seal the tubing from the evaporator to the housing. New coil installed with little difficulty. 6 screws and a few nuts hold the housing together. we also fixed a hole that was busted through the bottom of the housing. We used a two-part epoxy - resin to patch the bottom hole. In the last picture, there is some green goo at the bottom. That is the epoxy-resin. I removed the fuel lines back to the tank selector valve and started prepping the frame.

Dirty Evap Coils.jpg Dirty Evap Coils1.jpg 3M Sealant - Evap.jpg Evap Housing.jpg
 
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