These are the kind of times when a standby generator could be a huge benefit. You can get them that run on most fuels. You'd want one where the fuel source wouldn't be interrupted. With no electric the gas pumps may not be working. Natural gas would be a good possibility or diesel. With a diesel you could have a couple hundred gallon tank on hand. Could rotate the fuel in that tank by using some in your truck. Just keep it topped off so no condensation accumulates. After hurricane Hugo back in 1989 we bought a Lincoln welder generator. Provides power to the workshop and have used it several times since to power the house during an outage. Generators are probably in short supply in Texas right now.
Finally was able to get out and do a little work on the swap. I changed out the hydraulic brake/ power steering hoses. I had to use a heater hose as a temporary replacement for the hydro-boost return to the power steering pump. I ordered the correct hose, but this will keep any contamination from the system in the meantime.
Finally, I got the retailer to give me an update on the 3912600 Exhaust Manifold. Cummins is out of them globally. They won't have one available until April 16, 2021. I canceled the order. I am now looking for a good used one.
I connected the fuel lines yesterday as well. I just need to wire the new electronic pump on the frame. (Note:The pump is to be used for priming the fuel system, not for regular running. Although, when I purchased the Grumman van an electronic pump was used for running. I went back to stock.).
Then hit another problem. I ordered another transfer case with a 32 spline input to match the 4L80e transmission output. I needed to do this because the original 700r4 transmission has a 27 spline output and the NP208c transfer case has a matching 27 spline input. The six bolts which connect the transfer case to the adapter are M10x1.5x30. I purchased new bolts (flanged 10.9) to replace the existing bolts (unflanged). I found out that these are not the right bolts for the new NP208c transfer case (Same transfer case as before). Does anyone know if they changed bolt sizes through the years? The M10s do not want to fit.
UPDATE: The bolt size is 3/8-16 course. The bolts (6) are 1-1/4 inches long. Again I ordered flange bolts to increase the area of contact.
Finally, put the transfer case on today for the second and hopefully last time. This led to more questions for the forum.
The first is the brace (see picture) that bolts to the transfer case and the other end bolts to the engine's transmission housing. Since the 4L80e is a longer transmission (3 inches), does anyone sell a longer support brace? Or will I have to cut and extend mine?
The second is where does one find a dust cover for the 4bt-4l80e setup? I quickly learned that the 700R4 dust cover is not the right cover. Will the cheap knock-off eBay covers work?
I suspect you'll need to extend the rod. Shouldn't be terribly difficult. Measure the OD of the rod and find a piece of tubing with that ID to make a sleeve. Cut the rod and put the sleeve on so you have a slip joint. Then mount the rod and tack the sleeve in place. You can then weld it permanent. If you have a lathe you could also just make a coupling and weld it on. Don't know about the dust cover. Would one from a TH400 work?
I figured as much on the brace. Not sure if the th400 dust cover would work. I will try to research. Another issue I have to address is a clocking ring for the 4L80e to NP208c transfer case. Is it required? I see talk of the clocking ring bringing the transfer case up to allow more ground clearance for rock climbing. Not sure if it is required though. There is also some discussion on the 4L80e output shaft being too long for the NP208c. I bolted my up yesterday and didn't see any issues.
I agree with Charles, one would believe that to be true. However, I found a 2000 4L80e dust cover at the local pull-a-part. Costs just north of $6.00. I had to cut it up to make it fit though (see pics). Too bad it is sheet metal. I had to chop a bit off to make it fit as well, also elongate some of the bolt holes.
I started to work on the drive shafts. The first objective was to remove some of the rust on them. For that, I used a wire wheel attachment on the angle grinder (see pic). Then I used Gemplers which is a rust converter. Funny, it had a purple tint after application, but by morning it was black. The instructions on the Gemplers rust converter state not to paint until 48 hours have passed.
The driveshafts are in. I went to connect the speedometer cable only to have the speedo drive assembly pop out on me as the rebuilder did not put the clamp on the outside of it. I used the clamp from the old NP208c. I also was shipped a 4wd version of the 4L80e dust cover I picked up on eBay for $49.00 I needed as well.
Decided to pull the trigger on a suspension lift to raise the oil pan from the differential on the axle. I looked at several lifts and decided on a Skyjacker 2.5-inch lift. It should be here installed in a few weeks. The U-bolts are back ordered.
Back on the path. Started with the suspension today and did not get to far. The parts that need disassembly have been on the vehicle for decades. Nothing is easy. I was able to remove the rear springs.
Worked on the "dust covers" today. When I looked for the dust covers for an 84 Chevy Silverado Square Body, I could not find any. As much as I searched.... Nada!
Well, that is because they aren't called dust covers. They are incorporated into the caliper supports. I was able to pick up a used (good) pair for $80.00 although they do need a good cleaning. Here are the pictures of the old "Caliper Supports." The driver side is rusted out pretty good. The passenger side is not too bad. I also have decided to change the emergency brake cable, both rear wheel cylinders and front calipers.
Worked on changing the exhaust manifold to the 3902600. I added the one-inch spacer which turned out to be a good thing as it lowered my turbo. The exhaust has the room to route an exhaust pipe. I tapped the spacer for the temp probe, then I realized I created another problem with my oil filter which will now need to be a remote filter.
I had to order new studs of course. The new studs are M10x1.50x65mm. If I had to do it over, I would go with 70mm. Food for thought if anyone wants to add a 1-inch spacer.