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Discussion Starter · #561 · (Edited)
Did a bit of work this weekend and hit one point of frustration.

1) Changed the plate with the oil filter to an oil block plate as talked about previously. (Pic below). I still have to figure out what I am going to use as an oil supply line for the turbo as the port on this plate is low and out of reach of the oil line. Not to mention the hole size is currently unknown and unfortunately not like the tapped hole on the plate with the filter connection.

2) Played the frustration game when the new left front brake caliper did not fit. It was close, but no cigar (so to speak). It seemed to work without the brake pads, but once they were installed, it wasn't going to fit. After a two-hour head scratch, I figured it out. The caliper plates I purchased were supposed to be a right and a left. They were the same plate though. After comparing the old plates I found the plates were in fact different (mirror image of one another). I reality, I had two driver-side plates on the front end. (see the pic below of the old caliper supports). I ended up cleaning the old one I had and using it. The brake caliper and pads fit fine after that.

3) I buttoned up the brake hydraulic lines (picture of the front driver-side brake below) for all the brakes (front and rear). So, with the heat (101 deg. yesterday) and the foul-up with the caliper support, I did not get done what I wanted to get done. But there it is, another weekend of triumphs and challenges, mixed with a few disappointments and more research and work to be done.

New OIl Bypass Plate.jpg Caliper Supports Compared.jpg Front Driver-Side Brake.jpg
 

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The remote oil filter plate outlet for the turbo is the same as the regular filter heads. It uses the fitting shown below which should be on the old filter head. Just transfer it to the new remote plate. As for hose length that you'd have to work out. Those hoses came in various lengths. The engine I have on Quick Server with the remote setup has turbo hose 3916289 which shows to be 24" long. That hose is around $100. That may or may not be long enough for your application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #563 · (Edited)
I took the fittings off the filter plate and neither would work on the new block plate. I will look at it again today. Thanks for the information, it helps more than you know.

Update an hour later: Yep, the fitting is too big but looks close. On the stock fitting, the male threads are M14x1.50 and the internal threads are 3/8 tube. The block plate internal threads to which the fitting fits is M12x1.50.

So there it is. I need to find a fitting with M12x1.50 male threads and the female side needs to be a 3/8 tube. Or I need to drill and re-tap the hole to the correct size. It looks like the 2 ft flex hose will work (calibrated eye).

Update at Lunch. The Cummins fitting is M12x1.50 X 3/8 tube. I must have an older version of the fitting (M14). The correct fitting is ordered.
 

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The part I show in that photo is 3919687. It is M12x1.50 on the male side. If your part off the old filter head is M14 that unit may be off a common rail engine, not a B series. Be sure you get all 3 of the parts. The fitting is 3919687 (old number 3284244), O ring 3037236, and copper washer 3924389. The fitting and O ring often come together,
 

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Discussion Starter · #565 · (Edited)
Agreed, the three must come together, although I did not see the O-ring, but can order it as well. I ordered the flex hose. You're right, about $100.00 shipped. The engine came from a Fritolay truck. Maybe they had some extra M14 fittings lying around, who knows. Too bad it wasn't the right one. It seems life is never too easy. The good thing is the parts are already shipped and I have other projects to get done before those parts come in. To make matters worse, my 3.5-ton jack just bit the burrito and needs to be replaced as well.
 

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It is quite often the little O ring comes with the fitting. I bought a couple of those a few years back and they came in OEM Cummins plastic bags and had the O ring on the fitting. See photo below. I think they give the part # for the O ring in case you need a replacement in the future. That M14 fitting has peaked my curiosity. Is there a part # on that oil filter housing? Things on special projects often get complicated. Always something wanting some more money. LOL. Don't know if you noticed but the remote filter plate has 1 odd length bolt. It is M8x1.25x45mm flange head which is Cummins part 3901445. #3 in the diagram below. The other 13 bolts are 35mm.

130847
 

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Discussion Starter · #567 · (Edited)
The filter housing is 3902295. As far as the odd bolt, I did notice the bolt went into the hole a bit too far, but it was the same bolt as the others. I took it apart from the engine that way. I will have to order and replace that one too. It looks like it goes just below the pressure regulator on the left side (below the cap). You are right, once a problem is found, money has to follow. The upside is it is being done right. The downside is a lighter wallet. 🙃
 

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Although they don't specify it, that remote plate could use 3 lengths of bolts. If you notice, the plate steps down for the 2 bolts at the top right corner. I think the holes in the block are deep enough that you don't have to do that. When I laid mine out I did choose shorter ones there so all of them are basically the same length out the back of the plate. That project had long passed being cost effective so I used high grade ARP stainless flange head bolts which cost as much as the plate. See photo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #569 · (Edited)
Tried to bleed the brakes today. The left rear wheel cylinder (although brand new) leaked brake fluid. I put new cylinders and calipers in to avoid this problem, but here we are with this issue. I feel lucky the part is cheap, unlucky I need to tear about the brakes again.
 

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i feel your pain! nothing worse than proactively replacing a part and the new one failing. calipers, hydroboost unit, and brakes lines have all let me down in the last few months. reman quality control is terrible
 

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Discussion Starter · #571 · (Edited)
The worst part: The local O'Reilly Auto Parts Brake Cylinder is $12.99 and the Amazon AC Delco with one-day shipping is $5.30. I save $8.00 but have to delay a day. Brick and mortar retailers have the overhead cost of a building, but how can ordering online (with shipping costs) be so much less?

The correct fitting for the Oil Block Plate and the oil supply hose came in today. The hose is a bit long but will work as it doesn't appear to touch anything else.

Turbo Oil Supply Hose .jpg Turbo Oil Supply Hose 1.jpg Oil Turbo Supply Hose 2.jpg
 

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I suspected that hose might be a tad long because it was for a turbo mounted on top of the engine. As long as it is clear it should be no issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #574 · (Edited)
Now I am having issues with the right front brake caliper. First, the hydraulic line did not seal with the copper crush washers. Second, the bleeder screw did not seal as well. I am not taking chances on this, so I ordered a new one and will return this one back to the auto parts store. It rained today as well. so not much work done this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #575 · (Edited)
Added the bumper stops back to the Engine Mounts. These were originally riveted to the frame before the swap. Now they are bolted and lowered to prevent the axle from ever hitting the oil pan. I also show the engine mounts in more detail. The engine mounts were easy; 6" x 8" x 1/2 inch steel angle iron bolted to the frame. Here are the pics from yesterday. Note: A spacer plate was placed behind the engine stop to account for the gap when I overlapped the engine stop on the mount. I also had to cut a slot to reverse the rubber stop so it would better align with the axle.

Engine Mounts.jpg Engine Mount Passenger Side2.jpg Engine Mount Passenger Side1.jpg Engine Mount Passenger Side.jpg Bumper Stop.jpg Adding the Bumper Stop.jpg Bumper Stop Installed.jpg Bumper Stop Installed1.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #576 · (Edited)
Not much done this week. I replaced the right front brake caliper and mounted the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I now have to figure out how it will connect to my wiring. (I am not sure what the wires are for. One is power, another is signal, and the third, ground?) I ordered the brake proportioning valve due to the age of the existing one. Since I have the front clip off, it makes sense to replace it.

(A little while later) After looking at a few online videos. It appears the center wire is the signal wire out which indicates the throttle position. One of the outside wires is a 5V power supply and the other is a ground. I am not sure if the ground and 5V power supply are interchangeable.

TPS.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #578 · (Edited)
Part of the problem is the pigtail is an aftermarket item and was purchased separately from the TPS. However, I agree with you 100% that color-coding would have simplified the task greatly, but as usual, nothing is easy here. I believe the center wire is the signal wire. I just need to figure out the 5V input and ground. Cool diagram. The only way to test is to hook it up and test it. Not sure where I will get 5V though. I am still in the thinking and research mode.

An hour or so later... Okay, researching the Internet I found a few diagrams which show which wire is which. I am showing pictures from the 3-wire and 4-wire setup. The 3-wire appears to be a common setup.

Testing the TPS.PNG Testing the TPS - 4 Wire.PNG

Now, looking at my pigtail I have to convert this picture to a mirror image to understand the pigtail wiring and ensure correct orientation from the pigtail to the TPS.

Pigtail for TPS.jpg

The three female connectors: The right female connection is the 5v input. The center female connection is the signal, and the left is the ground. So when you flip the plug around to attach it to the TPS correctly.

I have an Optishift controller which states the wires on the harness for the TPS are as follows:
Pin 11 of the Transmission Controller is the Orange Wire which is +5v TPS feed
Pin 3 of the Transmission Controller is the Green Wire which is TPS signal
Pin 16 of the Transmission Controller is the Black Wire which is ground

TPS Wiring 1.jpg TPS Wiring .jpg
 

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Never seen the 4 wire version, at least not on the first gen engines. By the way, DCC sells a wiring pigtail that is color coded. A little pricey at $39.
 

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Discussion Starter · #580 ·
I saw that pigtail before I purchased the one I bought. I felt that the color coding was arbitrary (didn't match) for the Optishift controller wiring, therefore, inconsequential to the installation. I am sure it matches a vehicle somewhere though. I believe I have a better claim with my Internet research. Thanks for looking though.
 
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