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Discussion Starter · #581 · (Edited)
Worked on the Running Boards for a switch of pace. I utilized a U bolt from the suspension swap.

U - Bolt Cut in 2 Pieces.jpg

Then cut some angle iron

Cutting the Angle Iron.jpg Hangers Cut Up.jpg

Welded the angle iron and U-bolds together

Welding the Hangers.jpg

Utilzed a 2x2 square tube to run the U Bolts through. the angle iron will be bolted to the frame. Unfortunately, the fran is not flat in this area and I needed to weld in some shims.

Tac Welded some Shim .jpg Running Board Hangers.jpg

I bolted the Square Tube to the Hangers

Hanger in Place.jpg

I picked up some receivers at Harbor Freight for the ends to support the running boards. You can see a small plate above the 2x2 tube. That will be welded in place once the correct height is set which will prevent upward movement of the tube on the U bolt.

Receiver Hitch - Part of Plan.jpg

I slid the running boards into the receiver ends (Note these boards are meant as steps for the rear bumper/ or installed hitch.)

Test Fitting Running Boards.jpg

I still need to adjust a little to ensure they are straight. I will place a single bolt through each angle Iron support on either side of the frame. I will then bolt the receiver tubes to the 2x2 square tube and then lock in the running boards/steps to finish this project. I took this on as the truck was raised a few inches (Lift Kit) and my wife is 4'11".

5.18.21 Finished with the running board project.

Running Boards Finished.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #582 ·
Took the exhaust to the muffler shop to have matching flanges welded to the turbo outlet pipe and the 2.5 inch to 3-inch adapter. From this point on out, I will have a 3-inch exhaust.

Exhaust Outlet from Turbo.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #584 · (Edited)
I ordered one but it is taking too much time to get here (shipped from China). If I go with what I have the next piece will be an elbow coupled onto a flex hose. I will check out Summit.

Exhaust Elbow - Flex.PNG

Update later in the day: The exhaust is interfered with by the transmission. I believe I can heat the pipe a bit and bend it out an inch. The other issue is that I broke a brake when replacing the proportioning valve. I am not disappointed that happened as the line did not look to be in the best of shape to begin with.

Exhaust Installled Interferring with Transmission.jpg Transmission Interferring with Exhaust.jpg Broken Brake Line.jpg

From the bottom, you can see more of the problem. The transmission forces the exhaust pipe out to the frame.

Exhaust Interference .jpg Exhaust Interference 1.jpg

The solution is to reform the exhaust around (over) the protruding bell housing on the transmission

Exhaust Pipe Adjustment.jpg Exhaust Pipe Adjustment-1.jpg

Now if I could just weld stainless steel...

Turbo Exhaust Welded.jpg


The exhaust is welded back together

Exhaust Problem Solved.jpg

The turbo exhaust looks good, problem solved. The problem I had was finding a turbo outlet with the right angle to it. You can buy a 90 or 45-degree turbo downpipe but nothing in between. I needed to cut my 90-degree with a pie slice to achieve the angle I needed to make it work. I am happy in the end. I ordered the rest of the exhaust pipe in stainless steel. Most of it will clamp together. Now, I need to figure out the hangars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #586 · (Edited)
I ordered some stainless steel brake line to replace the broken line. Hopefully to never have to deal with it again.

I ended up forming the coil on a piece of round stock I had used earlier in the project. The stainless was hard to bend, but I am happy with the end product.

Brake Line _ Forming.jpg New Brake Line with Rock Guard.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #587 · (Edited)
Looking at the transmission shift linkage. I would use the old linkage but the shift point on the transmission doesn't align exactly right. I pulled the trigger on a summit shift linkage. I was reading the reviews and one reviewer stated it was a great choice for his K10 and 4L80e transmission. That is exactly what I have.

Transmission Shift Linkage.PNG Transmission LInkage.jpg

I will let you know how it works out.

Update 6-19-21. The shift linkage was fairly straightforward to install. I had to make a few bends in the rod though.

Transmission Linkage Summit Racing.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #588 · (Edited)
I attempted to bleed the brakes today only to find the master cylinder doesn't want to push fluid to the back brakes. I believe if you let a piece of mechanical equipment sit for long enough, it won't work when you need it. I ordered a new master cylinder from the local auto parts store.

5.19.21 Picked up the new master cylinder. I installed it as well.

5.20.21 Bleed the brakes. Found a leak on the new stainless steel brake line and fixed it. The truck is now has bled brakes and appears ready to go (brake wise).
 

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Ya know I think your build is mine all over again when it comes to some of the problems you’re encountering. I had the exact thing happen with my back brakes. Are you using the proportioning valve that it’s your truck? My valve was stuck and would not let fluid flow to back brakes. I had a new master cylinder so it was easy to troubleshoot. I kept fooling with it and it finally opened up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #590 · (Edited)
I have a new proportioning valve. I broke a brake line replacing it. Now, every brake line save one is brand new. I have a tool installed on it to prevent the valve from shifting which would prevent proper bleeding of the front or rear brakes. I still couldn't bleed the rear brakes, so I removed the brake line from the master cylinder and tried to bleed the master. That is where I found the issue.

On another note, due to lifting the truck a few inches, I am considering lowering my mounts on the truck another inch. That would give me the clearance I want for my compressor. That would also hold up the installation of the transmission linkage. This week unfortunately is a bad week (weather-wise). It is pouring with flash flooding and thunderstorms today.

I am trying to be detailed in my build to chronicle the build so I and others can look back and learn from my mistakes. I sure have made plenty. At the same time "Loving it." BTW: I do love my motor mounts which attach to the frame. They are as simple as simple could be. I just wish the rest of the build were that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #593 · (Edited)
Started working on the AC mount. it was on top of the front of the engine above the injection pump. I started wondering how I would lower it as it appears too high for the hood to close properly. I have admittedly been going back and forth with a high mount AC compressor on the right side of the engine with the alternator. But the cost was prohibitive since I purchased a mount with a matching compressor. I decided to go as cheap as I could to relocate the compressor.

I started with a piece of plate metal.
AC Mount Start.jpg

Then started looking at a new tensioner location. The angle iron with the hole is welded to the base mount plate to accommodate this need.

AC Mount Tensioner.jpg

I then added a gusset to the mount and then added one on top.

AC Mount 1.jpg AC Mount Gusset.jpg

Well, I didn't exactly finish today. But will try to get it done by this week. The compressor will be next to the injection pump. The belt will need to be extended a few inches. It should work, fingers crossed.
 

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I had clearance problems with the high mount compressor. I mounted my compressor over center and pulled it tight.

View attachment 131089
The brackets are from a 1991 Oshkosh van - Found it for sale here, I've never seen another mount like this. The compressor is pulled toward the engine to tighten the belt.

View attachment 131090
I had a few design failures...

131093

Common 1/2"-13 threadall did not light to be tensioned. Some one on this board recommended B7 threadall (a little less than Grade 8, with better resistance to bending loads). I've got lots of years on the B7 rod (not shown).

131094

I've gone through a few pivot bolt designs - this is the "final" - has lots of miles and states on it. One iteration would snap a Grade 8 bolt every few hundred miles - I eventually learned to install the bolt a little loose (it had a nylock nut).

Most of this is buried in my build thread.

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #595 ·
I like the simplicity of the design. It takes some thinking to come up with this type of mount. Impressive.
 

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I like the simplicity of the design. It takes some thinking to come up with this type of mount. Impressive.
I was trying to design a mounting plate and this unit popped up in the 4btswaps part for sale. It was listed for less than one hour.

131100

Another in-progress picture. 3 bolts in the top plate and one bolt in the horizontal reinforcing plate. Heavy lug to the left for the tension bar - 2 heavy lugs to the right for the pivot.

and

131101

This is is the stock configuration with the 1/2"-13 threaded rod used to push (instead of pull). Just a little bit too tall for my F150.

Minor correction: 1990 Oskosh van

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #598 ·
A few more pictures of the AC mount. Note: I did not delete the old mount on top of the engine, just repositioned it.

AC Mount-No Compressor.jpg AC Mount.jpg AC Mount Front.jpg

Also note, I did not bolt it all the way down before taking pictures. This is just to give you a better idea of what I am doing. char 1355, you are right, it is similar to the GM mount. Before your picture, I did not know that existed.
 

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That looks great.
 
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