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Good to hear it's coming together Tim. Again, sorry I couldn't help you on supplying the head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #142 (Edited)
Not too much more performance. Just leaving options open. I did thread chase the block, but wll go with the standard head bolts (for now). My plan (original) is to go with slightly better injectors, a 32k governor spring and the Holset HX30W turbo. The springs came up with char1355 (post #130) and the idea of cheap insurance to ensure the valves retracted with higher RPMs and Nascarmark and the possibility of increased HP. (Post #131)
 

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Discussion Starter #143 (Edited)
Nascarmark: Not a problem, you have helped plenty with the injection pump and injectors.

One other thing. I have a Pittsburg torque wrench (Yes, Harbor Freight). My neighbor (who, in his younger years worked in a machine shop on engines) suggested to recheck the main bearing and connecting rod torques with his Craftsman torque wrench. While some check out okay, others (More than half) went as much as 1/8 turn before the torque wrench clicked at full torque. We found this interesting. What prompted him to suggest this, was the "Pittsburg" tool. I am glad I asked him over to check my piston protrustion with me, and then I asked him to check torque before the lower end gets buttoned up. He was impressed with the care I was taking with the internals. But I wouldn't have it any other way. This is my first cummins rebuild. Taking everything extra slow as I hate doing things twice over.
 

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Don't know if you did it, but Cummins recommends to replace rod bolts in a rebuild. They aren't horribly expensive and might even consider higher grade replacements. As for other planned mods, the 3200 RPM governor spring and HX30W turbo are good choices. As for better injectors, the stock units are good to the 200-250 HP range. Have them tested for pop pressure and either rebuild or replace if necessary. You can often buy rebuilt units cheaper than having the old ones rebuilt. Stock injectors on a VE pump engine should be 4x.012 units. The next step up is a 5x.012 which can go to 300+ HP. You usually plan twin turbos when going past the 250 HP level.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
char1355 I did replace the rod bolts and will replace the head bolts as well. Nascarmark rebuilt the injection pump and put a 3200 gov spring before it came back. He also upgraded my injector (new) to 5x.012. My goal is 200 hp and 440 ft/lbs of torque. The 4L80e from Monster transmission is rated to 550 ft/lbs torque. Since I am not planning to go that high in HP I plan to stay with the Holset HX30w. I must admit, you, Nascarmark, Papa, rubebonnet and others have formed my build. i would like to have the engine done by this month. I will probably start to rebuild the NP208c transfer case next, but haven't committed to it yet. The drive train will be new and hopefully last 400k + miles. In the end, the truck will go to my son. I just hope he has the same love for this square body that I do.
 

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One thing to remember on a 4bt is the torque is normally 2.5 times the HP. A 200 HP engine will have around 500 lb ft of torque coming full on in the 1700-1800 RPM range. That is still in the range of your transmission. Cummins engines are torque monsters. That's the reason you have to be careful on transmission selection and differentials. If used sensibly, the drive train parts are usually OK. Get crazy and show off and you can end up with broken parts. Guys have seen broken differential gears, U joints, twisted drive shafts, burned transmission clutches, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #147
This old man doesn't do much showing off. I hope the truck lasts a lifetime. Great information though. Even if I am in the 170 hp range, I will be more than happy. My 6.2 Chevy diesel is about 125 hp if memory serves correctly. As it is, I think I have the necessary parts to make 170 hp happen.
 

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The 200 HP number you mentioned is very doable with a single turbo. Just a matter of adjusting fuel, timing, and turbo boost level. It's a number many often shoot for. 170 HP isn't a terrible number either. My old F250 7.3 only came with 180 HP stock and the 6.9 I had before it was 160 HP. Neither were total slugs, but I was never in the rush that some younger people seem to be. I've hauled and towed to the max of both those trucks, drove across map, climbed into the Rocky Mountains, and never had any major issues except running too rich in high altitude since mine were non turbos.
 

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Also remember the normally x2.5 torque is only at stock factory hp level. As you go up in hp, the scale of x torque drops off on a sliding scale. So at say 400hp it's closer to x2. It's the same no matter what size engine you run. You will be fine.
 

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Mark, I had sometimes wondered about that. There were some factory stock P pumps that were even higher than 2.5. I would guess that torque number would depend on timing and which torque plate was in the P Pump on those very high HP engines. I always use that 2.5 as a safety factor. Guess the only way to know what it's really producing is put it on a dyno.
 

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Char, yes there is a few factors involved. Either way you cut it though, torque drops off to under x2 pretty fast once hp climbs. And to be honest, with rpm & the torque drop off, the damage factor to running gear is lessened. It's the low rpm & full throttle that does most of the damage to the running gear. If your not an abuser & use your brain/right foot accordingly, you tend not to break ****.
I made 700hp to the rear wheels in my 1993 W250 Cummins back in the day....stock D70 rear & D60 front end, stock drive shafts, with no problems. I didn't sled pull with it at that hp but did when it was just under 400hp & no breakage at all. Well I should say I did twist my stock flex plate in half but they were known to fail over time even at stock power.

We used to do stupid **** when we were younger ( donuts, burn outs & lots of 4 wheel drag racing launches ) & must say unless someone was stupid & put shock loads to the drive train, we didn't see much breakage. The auto is more forgiving but unless you are dropping the clutch or banging gears with the std....it's all good. Simply size your running gear accordingly.

As Tim said, he doesn't show off, so he will be just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
As Tim said, he doesn't show off, so he will be just fine.
My younger years are long gone. My son is 36 as an indication of my age. However, as a young man, I would do those things, that looking back, I wish I wouldn't have done. Things such as "put a shock load on my drive train."
 

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Tim Swindler #145 papa says thanks, hope your friends tq wrench has been checked & calibrated , my wrench is also a craftsman & it was off 8.25% , had to re-tq everything, also found I had to add assembly lube to all the bolt threads to stop the bolts from popping during the tq sequence
 

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Discussion Starter #154 (Edited)
Papa, I will check to see if my friends tq wrench is calibrated, I suspect not though. As far as adding assembly lube, the instructions call for motor oil added to the threads which I did.

Who calibrates torque wrenches?

10 hours later. I found this. Looks interesting and promising for those who want to calibrate torque wrenches.

https://www.google.com/search?source=hp&ei=-J8XXfzxLMK0tQakoJ_oBQ&q=calibration+of+torque+wrench&oq=calibration+of+torq&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0l3j0i22i30l7.3627.8409..12070...0.0..0.190.1713.18j2......0....1..gws-wiz.....0..35i39j0i131.onSs2XSgLLk#kpvalbx=1
 

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Well, I guess that meathod would work, but for only "1" setting, you would have to know the exact weight of the floor jack or what ever. I could tell you where to go hear but that would be useless unless you want to come to Costa Rica, so I will describe the way they did it.
There was a work table with a device mounted that was plugged into power, they connected a digital multi-meter to it, so that they could check up to the full range of the wrench. They calibrated it on at 50 psi then I had them do it @ some other #s that I remembered from my engine specks & wrote them down, for instance the 129 for the mains gave 126.5 --. So to get that tq I set at 133
Oiling the bolts --. This I also did on assembly but when I went to re-tork many of the bolts would snap almost like they were broke both on loosening & the re-tork even @ 15-20 lbs under the spec. So I took them out & added oil, which accompanied nothing, removed again and added the moly-lub ! Didn't mean to write a book ! Hope this helps. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #156
Wave Ring Balancing

Getting back to my build after an extremely hot summer. I took the flex plate and upgraded wave ring (Thanks Rubebonnet) to the machine shop for balancing. I wasn't sure how they were going to do it, but 24 hours later I was told to come pick it up. They put welds on the center pieces to add weight for balancing... see pics. Now I just need to stamp the wave ring and flex plate so if they are ever separated they will have alignment marks.
 

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Discussion Starter #159
Never thought my build would grind to a halt. It seems work is getting in the way. installed gear housing and rear main seal. I was impressed by the protrusion of the gaskets which were easily shaved off since the oil pan was removed. Put the oil pan on with 2 bolts to allow me to place the engine/trans/transfer case in the truck and see where it will fit. I might end up shaving the pan, who knows. I will seal the oil pan before the final install.
 

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Yeah, life sometimes gets in the way of projects. Just take your time and be patient. This is a great project and deserves that. They sure gave you plenty of extra on that front cover gasket. Here's a good video that gives some tips when installing the oil pan. Mostly old school but that works.
 
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