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deg glad to hear you ar doing well again. sucks about the slave cyl (damn you ford lol) byt here in the bext few weeks if we can meet up again? want to show youmy 73 IH travellette 4x4
 

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We used to own one of those Volvo's back in the day. Pops had to sell it when the family got too big. He ended up buying a Dodge Sportsman van with a 318. All 9 of us would fit in that van. He made a jumper seat for my little sister behind the driver's seat. We drove all over California in that van that pops had to rebuild the engine. In the early 70's he went looking for another Volvo, thinking they'd still be cheap. He was shocked at the prices of Volvo's and settled for a 73 Toyota Corolla. That was when you could order seat extensions for taller folks. Drove it till the wheels fell off then finally bought a new to him Volvo.
 

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Discussion Starter #323
I bought a 1960 Volvo, in 1965, to commute to a summer job. Graduated in 1966, moved to Burlington, VT and ran it in a few Sports Car Club of Vermont stop-watch events. In 1967, traded it on a 1967 Fiat 850 Spider sports car (51 CID, 54 HP). Fun little car, but I got married and soon needed something bigger. Traded the Fiat on a 1969 Datsun 510 2 door sedan. Soon after that, the country went through a massive inflation, followed by the Nixon price freeze. I went through lots of years driving battered used cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #324
3 year update

The F150 first drove 3 years ago. The new VDO speedometer reads 45,349 miles (no idea how many miles on the previous recycled VDO speedo). Mileage continues to be "about" 23 MPG (I do not check it very often). It is a blast to drive, we have gone coast to coast.

A couple of folks learned to drive manual transmission on this truck. First and second gear shift a little rougher. We've chewed through a few motor and trans mounts. I upgraded to first generation Dodge / Cummins / V-10 motor mounts and 1997 up Ford F150 transmission mounts. Installed a total of 3 (ea) 1997 Ford F150 slave clutch cylinders (the trans has to come out) - I "suspect" that my mix-and-mismatch hydraulic clutch system is no quite right. I have recently done a little work on a spun front wheel bearing and replaced a few suspension parts - to be expected in a $1,000 Craig$li$t truck.

Zero tows, I got lucky, the clutch slave cylinder starts leaking, and I could drive it home.

I've been chasing a slight drive line vibration (at 65-68 MPH). Discovered that my engine/trans points slightly toward the right rear wheel. My homemade engine cradle locates the engine closer to the left frame rail. Last week's transmission mount shift almost fixed the vibration. It comes and goes, and is almost undetectable. I've run out of room to shift the trans mount - the last change put the driveshaft against the front corner of the fuel tank. I used a ancient body tool to pound a concave groove in the side of the tank.

The drive shaft is 30 years old. I need to get out a dial indicator and measure the runout. More likely, I will declare it "NOT-SUFFICIENTLY-BROKEN".

At this time, i do not have any repairs or upgrades planned. I would like to lower the suspension about 3 inches, but, it involves more disassembly than this old man wants to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #326
Last update - I can no longer support the new owners of this forum

With some regret, I am permanently signing off of 4btswaps. I was a paying subscriber of this website for many years. This afternoon, my Firefox browser would hang up and I got the following popup message:

"A script on this page may be busy, or it may have stopped responding. You can stop the script now, open the script in the debugger, or let the script continue.

Script: http://cdn.viglink.com/api/vglnk.js:20"

I brought up 4btswaps.com on the Microsoft Edge browser (no ad blocker) and many of the click bait advertising was too trashy for this 70+ year old. I really appreciate the help I have received here and all the hard work of the mods. I will not log on again - if you have my Gmail address, I will answer.

I did remove the Bell Telephone Service Bed and shave the bed mounting brackets 1.5 inches. It now looks a little less like a "Stink Bug". I wore out the electric air compressor and will be replacing it soon. Have a couple of minor electrical issues (it is a 30 year old truck) to address.

2016 - April - map - low res.jpg
When the weather cools off, I hope to fill in 5 to 7 states in the north west.

Thanks to all,

Russ
 

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I'M sorry to see you leave Russ. Didn't you say you got your 16 inch wheels off a Dodge? I had been planing to ask you some other things about your truck but can remember right now.

Dana
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Hate to see you go, but I understand. Do keep in touch.
 

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Sorry to see you go. Maybe you'll make it to Oregon. I'd love to see your truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #330
I have wandered back. I recently Googled looking for information on a 4bt question. The first result was one of my posts on this site. It had the answer that I needed (dos not say much for my 73 year old memory...). I guess it is time to come back - with a new web browser and ad blocker.

First, to answered oshpunit's question. The used tire place told me that they were Dodge pickup rims.

Second, scout4bta and I have remained in touch. We did a dyno day this morning - his report is in the dyno results threads.

2017 Map - Low res.jpg
I am up to 37 states, but

Flagstaff return U-Haul - Low res.jpg
Not all trips end successfully. Flagstaff, AZ, with intent of renting a UHaul box trailer and moving the grandson. The rear u-joints failed on a late Friday afternoon. We rented the big box truck and towed the F150 home.

I'll write more later

Russ
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Russ,
Had a great day at the Dyno Day, 172hp. I'm already planning for improvements. I hear you on the u-joints. The Scout is cursed with 1310 u-joints, I have to replace the rear drive shaft one annually.
 

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Welcome back Russ! Your thread was helpful in my F150 swap--I'm sure countless others feel the same.

-Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #335
My wife mowed the lawn

And found a truck next to the double wide... I must be a *******.

The VE injector pump leak got worse. If you push the prime button (I really need to write up the electric priming modification), hold it to the VE pump starts dripping, and it starts immediately. Unfortunately, the leak continues. The truck has sat for several months

When I get some other tasks completed, and the weather cools off a little more, I need to send the pump out for a seal - on second thought, it is a 1986 pump, I should go $traight to a rebuild and get the injectors done at the same time.

I got several years and put on over 70,000 miles (the exact millage is unknown, I have used the engine in 2 trucks, and I am on my 3rd speedometer). Not bad for a 4bt out a $800 Wonder Bread truck.
 

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Good idea to do the injectors and pump at the same time. A rebuilt pump and weak injectors usually makes a bad combo. Rebuilt injectors can be had for around $75 each which is usually cheaper than most shops charge to rebuild your old ones. One can actually rebuild them yourself if you have a good pop tester and a way to be sure the nozzles are clean. The main issue is obtaining those precious micro shims used to adjust the pressure. The old springs are usually OK but need those shims to get the pressure back to specs. I have a complete list of those but the only source is Cummins or possibly Bosch. There are 30 different thickness of those little devils and they are usually priced in the $5-6 each range. Of course a guy would need several of each not knowing what will be needed so the investment could get kind of pricey. One benefit of a rebuilt injector is the internal springs of a used unit have relaxed and you get a more consistent pop pressure vs new springs which loose some tension early on.
 

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Discussion Starter #337 (Edited)
The F150 lives again. It sat for almost a year, got driven from the side yard to the new garage and this weekend to the shop in the back yard.

The piston lift pump put out about 18 to 19 PSI of pressure. And there was a while when the return line got kinked and the PSI went up to 22. At least 70K miles on this piston pump. The VE injection pump started leaking, a little faster than 1 drip per minute.

Last spring, I installed a Dodge/Cummins diaphragm lift pump (Reilly's autoparts). Also put an Edelbrock electric in-line pump with the idea of using it to prime the fuel filter (no more flipping the little lever on the lift pump). Life happened, and the truck sat until this weekend.

The in-line pump did not work out so well. Push the button, get 7 PSI, crack the bleed valve, then the engine starts right up. AND watch the fuel pressure gauge drift from 7 PSI to 0 PSI. (that's right ZERO PSI).

Turns out, the Edelbrock is a gear pump and the diaphragm lift pump was having trouble drawing fuel through the Edelbrock. I did manage to drive it out of the garage and into the back yard shop.

BACK TO THE DRAWING BOARD...

Block-off & support - Low res.jpg
Remove the diaphragm lift pump and fabricate a blockoff plate. The arm on this picture supports the end of the steel fuel line coming down from the fuel filter input. A rubber fuel line from the electric fuel attaches to this steel line. If this steel line is not supported, the vibration will eventually snap off the steel line at the banjo bolt.

When it was all done, NO DRIPS. I made a couple of 20 mile round trips today, it is sure nice to be back in the driver's seat.

Next up is a second Edelbrock in-line pump, I want to be able to recover from a failed electric pump with the flip of a toggle switch. The parts are in shipping from Summit Racing, there is no way that I can find 5/16" brass fittings locally.
 

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Bit late now but the other option would have been to run the electric in parallel to the diaphragm with a check valve in the feed to the electric.
Cheers Steve
 
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Does the electric pump have the correct flow rate for the VE? Often, electric pumps have the right pressure but their GPH is weak. Might want to check that. The specs for the original diaphragm pump was 21 gal/hr with pressure of 3-5 PSI post filter with a 3 PSI drop across the filter. In other words 6 to 8 PSI right out of the pump. Sound like you had the wrong piston lift pump to begin with. That pump is supposed to be 14 PSI pre filter. The one you had sounds like a P7100 lift pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #340
Char, the Edelbrock # 17302 is rated at 38 GPH at 4-7 PSI. I am seeing 7 PSI after the fuel filter.

I bought this piston pump from Tennessee Diesel Conversions in the summer of 2009. I suspect that the higher pressure was some sort of factory defect. It ran for a year or so in the Grumman bread truck (Twinkie truck). Then the 4bt got swapped into the F150. Grand total, 2 trucks, 3 speedometers, 37 states, over 70,000 miles - Only 2 tows (one failed U-joint 320 miles away {UHaul}) and (a massive case of stupidity involving a fillup of regular gasoline {AAA}).

I am super happy with the "self healing". I suspect what ever leaked at 19 PSI holds up to only 7 PSI.

Next up, a "stress test". The kids and grandkids are coming in for the ZipTie Drags in Tucson, AZ (18-19 Jan). The F150 and the 1962 Volvo PV544 (it also has a few modifications) will get run hard.
 
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