[scout4bta]

The 2nd new cylinder head arrived today. The first one is still out there floating around in Fedex land, Fedex lost it.

 

[char1355]

Don't know if that thing would float too good. LOL. You'd think anything that big and heavy would be hard to loose but some of the shipping companies do their best to do it.

 

[scout4bta]

Did a trial run on installing the new cylinder head and found that the new cylinder head as 2 extra holes along the intake cover gasket that if not used , left unplugged would cause problems. My spare VE engine does not have these holes. I'm guessing that on some engines these holes could have been used to attach fuel lines? And I guessing that to save time and money these holes changes from blind to thru holes.
For clarification this cylinder head is advertised and sold as a genuine Cummins part made in china.

 

[Russ McLean]

Good eye, I would have missed that...

 

[scout4bta]

While working on the torque sequence drawing noticed the tell tale bumps for 2 blind holes. Yea the manufacturer got cheap on us.

 

[char1355]

If you look at the the OEM Cummins head it is no longer available. In the US they only sell rebuilt heads. You are probably correct that the extra holes were added for some purpose on new engines being built overseas,

 

[scout4bta]

And again the manufacturer deviated from the original casting. Easy fix, machine off the offending part.

 

[char1355]

Your head is a bit unusual. The casting number 3933352 is different that other aftermarket heads. Here's one that's 3933370 and it looks identical to the original head including no through bolt holes. Shows as Cummins part 3920394.

 

[scout4bta]

Your head is a bit unusual. The casting number 3933352 is different that other aftermarket heads. Here's one that's 3933370 and it looks identical to the original head including no through bolt holes. Shows as Cummins part 3920394.

Interesting. What's more interesting is I made sure that the new casting had the same numbers as my old head. As for the added material around the edge I wouldn't think it's a cost saving measure, but what do i know.

 

[scout4bta]

Compression test with unseated rings:
8 pumps each
#1 400 psi, #2 400 psi, #3 375 psi, #4 400 psi

on the Second test came up with the same numbers.

 

[char1355]

Tell #3 to wake up. He's lagging behind. LOL. Don't believe you have any problems there.

 

[scout4bta]

At last it runs Great! All it took was a set of new chrome rings, a set of standard bearings for the crank shaft and rods. A quick pass with a flex hone and a new cylinder head. Click on the picture to run the video,
4bt run after fixes DSCN3820 by steve,

 

[scout4bta]

Time for some exhausting work. The first cut.
The slip joint is going to be replaced with a weld on V-band clamp.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Almost looks like you won't have room for a v-band fitting with how close that is to the bellhousing.

That's pretty much how close mine is, even have a nearly identical cut in the floorboard. I had to make a downpipe that was one piece from the turbo outlet down along the drivetrain to the frame rail level where space opens up enough to fit a v-band clamp.

 

[scout4bta]

Almost looks like you won't have room for a v-band fitting with how close that is to the bellhousing.

That's pretty much how close mine is, even have a nearly identical cut in the floorboard. I had to make a downpipe that was one piece from the turbo outlet down along the drivetrain to the frame rail level where space opens up enough to fit a v-band clamp.

I was thinking the same thing, why make it hard on myself. The new cover for the "hole" doesn't extend past the heater air box, so there's no
chance of the under dash AC coming in contact with it.

 

[scout4bta]

I was thinking the same thing, why make it hard on myself. The new cover for the "hole" doesn't extend past the heater air box, so there's no
chance of the under dash AC coming in contact with it.

Added the cover for a fitting. Held in by 3 tabs for now, much more to do.

 

[scout4bta]

Welded in:

 

[scout4bta]

Working on electrical. Got the placement of the relay box for the RV plug, the grid heater solenoid and the fuse for the grid heater. Waiting on more electrical parts to finish up.

 

[char1355]

How big is your fuse for the grid heater? Those heaters have 2 elements. Each one draws 95 amps. You don't have to use both elements but that is their draw amperage. Dodge used 6ga wire to each leg and a 12ga fusible line in each line to feed the relays and 6ga wire from the relays to the heater.

 

[scout4bta]

How big is your fuse for the grid heater? Those heaters have 2 elements. Each one draws 95 amps. You don't have to use both elements but that is their draw amperage. Dodge used 6ga wire to each leg and a 12ga fusible line in each line to feed the relays and 6ga wire from the relays to the heater.

I'm only using 1 of the grid heater elements. The fuse is 150A on 6AWG wire.