Interesting. What's more interesting is I made sure that the new casting had the same numbers as my old head. As for the added material around the edge I wouldn't think it's a cost saving measure, but what do i know.Your head is a bit unusual. The casting number 3933352 is different that other aftermarket heads. Here's one that's 3933370 and it looks identical to the original head including no through bolt holes. Shows as Cummins part 3920394.
I was thinking the same thing, why make it hard on myself. The new cover for the "hole" doesn't extend past the heater air box, so there's noAlmost looks like you won't have room for a v-band fitting with how close that is to the bellhousing.
That's pretty much how close mine is, even have a nearly identical cut in the floorboard. I had to make a downpipe that was one piece from the turbo outlet down along the drivetrain to the frame rail level where space opens up enough to fit a v-band clamp.
Added the cover for a fitting. Held in by 3 tabs for now, much more to do.I was thinking the same thing, why make it hard on myself. The new cover for the "hole" doesn't extend past the heater air box, so there's no
chance of the under dash AC coming in contact with it.
I'm only using 1 of the grid heater elements. The fuse is 150A on 6AWG wire.How big is your fuse for the grid heater? Those heaters have 2 elements. Each one draws 95 amps. You don't have to use both elements but that is their draw amperage. Dodge used 6ga wire to each leg and a 12ga fusible line in each line to feed the relays and 6ga wire from the relays to the heater.