[scout4bta]

Hey Mr. Scout, just spent the last 45 mins going over your pics and posts from your 4bt-89wag build, I am doing almost the same build, 4bt-88gw and getting ready to start in earnest as soon as it warms up a little up here is the high country, Chino Valley AZ, I am using a mid 90's ve pump 4bt, it was rebuilt around 5/21 and I bought it a guy out in NM who sold the baby jeep and never started the project... I acquired the motor in 1/22 and has been gathering parts, 47re and 47rh transmissions, 241dld t-case, I will continue to follow your build as I have picked up some great ideas from your build...!!! thanks.

Congratulations on you build choice.

 

[scout4bta]

I was weighting the chances of failure with the AC evaporator, cleaning, leaks vs buying a new one. Noticed that all the evaps I look at didn't look like mine. Looked at 74-85 wagon evaps, those look like mine. Why? When I was working on the gas engine I remembered the 2bbl carb was sitting on a adapter for a 4bbl (factory 4bbl manifold). 4bbl on the 360 were only offered in the J10-J20 trucks. So when the engine was swapped into the wagon they took the A/C with it.

 

[boomersrule55]

My experience with fsj's is limited to this 88gw and I have not been into the evaporator, however my experience with oem vs new is; the new stuff just doesn't hold up as well... a few years ago I replaced the oe condenser on my 93 379 peterbilt, the oe had lasted 23 years, but I went thru three of the best condensers available until I sold the truck in 2019... my 88 gw has only 138k and still had freon in it when I opened the system, so I will get a new sanden or equivalent compressor, expansion valve and reuse the condenser, evaporator and hoses... you could pull the evaporator and do a leak test or put the whole system together and vac it down to test, I myself would probably do the latter...

 

[scout4bta]

The AC system will be all new parts less the evaporator and expansion valve.

 

[scout4bta]

Waiting on more AC parts, decided to install the new front springs (2.5" lift). Took 2 days, 5 of the spring bolts were rusted tight. Had to cut the bolt heads off and pull them out using the threads.

 

[boomersrule55]

Nice! I have get started on my 4in lift on the 88 gw, I want to do the lift first so I can get the 4bt and pinion angles lined up correctly...

 

[scout4bta]

Got the 2.5" lift blocks cut and installed. Yes I know all about the warping of the leaf spring under high torque. If it is a problem I've got some good leaves from the front spring I can add to the rear pack.
When the swap is complete I'll recheck the lift and set the pinion angle.

 

[edpruss]

Are those 2.5” and 4” lifts due to front axle clearance, sounds pretty tippy when done? Lowering crossmember, building deeper doghouse, reconfiguring pan, moving engine to side can allow less lifts, better road manners!

Ed in CO

 

[scout4bta]

Are those 2.5” and 4” lifts due to front axle clearance, sounds pretty tippy when done? Lowering crossmember, building deeper doghouse, reconfiguring pan, moving engine to side can allow less lifts, better road manners!

Ed in CO

It's matter of balance.
First consideration was to keep the Wagoneer looking as stock as possible.
Reuse, I was able to use the factory bolt holes in the frame for the engine mounts.
Reuse, With the engine in place I was able to use the factory cross member, bolted it up to the factory rear set of cross member holes.
With the engine setting at 6° down the trans and T case was too close to the floor. A 1" body lift fixed that. The oil pan had about 0.25" to .5" clearance to a web on the front diff with out a lift.

I don't consider a 2" lift "tippy", 6" is tippy.
If I had the money I would have bought a tig welder to modify the oil pan.
If I had the money I would have ordered the complete (front and rear) 2.5" spring lift kit and eliminated the rear blocks.

 

[boomersrule55]

It's matter of balance.
First consideration was to keep the Wagoneer looking as stock as possible.
Reuse, I was able to use the factory bolt holes in the frame for the engine mounts.
Reuse, With the engine in place I was able to use the factory cross member, bolted it up to the factory rear set of cross member holes.
With the engine setting at 6° down the trans and T case was too close to the floor. A 1" body lift fixed that. The oil pan had about 0.25" to .5" clearance to a web on the front diff with out a lift.

I don't consider a 2" lift "tippy", 6" is tippy.
If I had the money I would have bought a tig welder to modify the oil pan.
If I had the money I would have ordered the complete (front and rear) 2.5" spring lift kit and eliminated the rear blocks.

what degree of down angle did you end up with after you did the body lift?

 

[scout4bta]

what degree of down angle did you end up with after you did the body lift?

When I first put the power train it was at 8° and the transmission/T case was almost touching the body.
After the body lift I had to add shimes to get the power train to 6°. With the trans sitting on the floor the face of the bell housing is at 6°, so that's why I settled on 6°.
And I have a good 1" clearance from the trans/T case to the body.

 

[boomersrule55]

Ok good to know, I'm using a 241dld, not sure how it relates to your atlas size wise... trying not to do a body lift if I can help it... the rear fuel tank I plan on using is 10in deep with a 2in sump at the front so I might have to add a body lift anyways just for extra ground clearance...