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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
The point of no return? The other good news is I found a buyer in Tucson that wants the powertrain for his 73 Wagoneer.
Discovered that there is room for a 2.5"-3.0" thick intercooler in front of the radiator, which leaves plenty of room to position the 4BT.
Pulled the T case yesterday.

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
I have a large air to air on mine. Wish I knew where it came from.
The inlet and outlet are up top.
Excellent!
Came out of a MT35 van with the 130hp P-pump 4BT.
I know where to find one of those CAC's.
thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
That saved me some money, forgot that I had the CAC. Looks like they had the Wagoneer in mind when they designed it.

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You will have room for a mechanical fan. I have less then 3/8 inch from fan hun to radiator with the 6bt.

in front of these two pusher fans there was the trans cooler with a puller fan centered and wedged between the two pushers.

I am swapping to a 5 speed and hope to put an a/c condenser in this mess
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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
You will have room for a mechanical fan. I have less then 3/8 inch from fan hun to radiator with the 6bt.

in front of these two pusher fans there was the trans cooler with a puller fan centered and wedged between the two pushers.

I am swapping to a 5 speed and hope to put an a/c condenser in this mess
I do plan on having a mechanical fan. Geno's Garage sell a smaller multi blade fan for the Cummins but they want $300 for it, ouch!

The first gen Dodge AC compressor has threaded AC lines at the rear, that's what I'm using. edit: assuming your using the Dodge/Cummins accessorie drive.
 
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My engine is out of a f700. I want to run the high mount A/C. Just haven’t pulled the trigger when I see one come up. I may just fabricate my own eventually
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
It's gutted. Now to clean and repair. Theres some rust on the frame that needs some attention and also remove left over wiring that was for the gas motor.

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
A change of plans, the MT35 CAC is out, I was not satisfied with the fitment of it. The new CAC is generic, slightly more surface area and volume than the MT35 CAC.

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Discussion Starter · #91 · (Edited)
Got the transmission shifter and throttle valve cables connected at the transmission.
The trans shifter cable bracket that B&M supplied with the shifter is sorely lacking so made my own. I switched throttle valve cables from a first gen Dodge (push cable) to a second gen (pull cable).

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
The new radiator has arrived. It's for a 1975 Plymouth Duster. Slightly smaller and only 2 row but expect it to keep it cool without any problems. And it matches the Dodge accessories drive I'm using. Radiator outlet on the passenger side at bottom and radiator inlet on the drivers side top and both have the same size hose size. I'm betting that using the Dodge radiator hose with match enough that only minor triming will be required.

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #93 · (Edited)
Indexing the compressor housing on the HE221w.
Hanging the engine in the engine bay the turbo compressor housing was in contact with the heater box. Rotating the housing to a vertical outlet should fix that. But needed to relocate the wastegate actuator.
It worked out well but you need to keep the new bolt holes inline with the original holes or you'll drill will break out into the air passage. Slot the holes for the actuator if need be.

I indexed the pin on the compressor housing several times.
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Yes I'm still going to use the compressor housing as is and no I don't think the "hole" will make any difference in performance for what I'm using it for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 · (Edited)
Tool time.
I've invested in some time saving tools. Some bought and some home made.

First is the rear lifting eye for the 4BT. It keeps the engine upright, no lean when combined with the custom front lifting eye and keeps the engine perpendicular with the firewall. The angle iron is positioned up against fire wall. This allows the engine to return to the same spot when removed and allows for changes in position by trimming.
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Note the custom front lifting eye, reversible if needed. The ram stop will keep the engine at the same level.
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Notice the difference after some trimming of the positioning guide. I think thats the final version. The engine is offset 0.5" to the passenger side.
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I shortened the engine tilt 4", because they made it to long for my needs.
The swivel hook makes positioning anything heavy easy and it will hold it's position.
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The ram stop is an extra good idea. My first engine hoist would leak down an inch or 2 overnight - I never trusted it.

Russ
 
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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
The ram stop is an extra good idea. My first engine hoist would leak down an inch or 2 overnight - I never trusted it.

Russ
My previous ram (that failed) on the engine lift did the same thing. That was the reason for the ram stop.
Now I find that with the ram stop and the angle iron locator I can position the engine, remove it, do the mods or take more measurements and I'm able to put the engine back in the same spot.
 

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1989 Jeep Wagoneer, 360v8, 727, stock for now,
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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
The hydroboost accumulator was taking up area I need for the throttle, throttle valve and the engine stop. So I rotated it 180°.

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The hydroboost accumulator was taking up area I need for the throttle, throttle valve and the engine stop. So I rotated it 180°.

View attachment 131415
Now that the hydro vent between the booster and MC is facing up it will be prone to sand/dirt ingress. Tap the area and install a fitting and remote vent it w/vent cap...just a thought. I vent everything up high and now will be moving vents even higher up on the snorkel top when installed.
 
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